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Fuel Mileage Related Discussions

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  #981  
Old 04-26-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
I have a Bluetooth unit attached to my OBD-II port, and that displays all sorts of info on the GPS screen. I tried using a splitter on the OBD port, but trying to get output to two devices leaves me with nothing at all.
Is it that Garmin OBDII unit? I thought about getting it, but was concerned how it fit next to the port. The port isn't in a great location and that dongle is huge.
 
  #982  
Old 04-26-2016, 11:04 AM
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UG's plug is nicely low profile.

 
  #983  
Old 04-26-2016, 12:43 PM
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Looked at that too, but was hoping to not add yet another screen on my Fit. As it stands, I already have the screen in the dash, a cell phone and the Garmin. First world problems...
 
  #984  
Old 04-26-2016, 02:10 PM
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2016 Honda Fit EX W/ CVT

at 2500 miles on a new Honda Fit. I'm averaging 36-37 mpg from what the Honda Computer is saying. But I'm finding the Honda Computer is about 1.5-2 miles more than what the actual is. So really I'm getting about 34-35 mpg.

I'm getting that number with mixed driving. 60% Freeway, 40% City. And the occasional spirited run through the mountains with my 2800 lbs car. I have yet to take a long distance trip, but I'm expecting over 40 when i do if I'm getting 34-35 now.

I'm playing with Tire pressure to see what kind of results I get with MPG and Ride.
 
  #985  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:37 PM
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Lightbulb 2016 Fit lx CVT 47 mpg highway

My wife and I just purchased a 2016 Fit lx CVT. I drive 100km mainly highway to work each way, daily. When we first got the car (a few days ago) I ignored the little green button and put on cruise at 120km per hour (around 70-75 mph). I was less than pleased with the highway efficiency averaging 6.4l/100km (about 37 mpg i think), especially since Honda boasts 41 mpg highway on the CVT lx model.

After doing some reading I decided to turn on economic mode (green button) and to set cruise at 100km/hour (60 mph). I was shocked and happy to see a significant increase in fuel economy! As I was getting off the highway I decided to take a pic 5l/100k over about 85 kms! The new car is coming up on 1000km, so maybe a combination of the green button, and the 'break-in' of engine are the reasons for such a dramatic difference. Keep in mind hwy 400 from Orillia to Newmarket has a lot of uphills and downhills, the blue and green fuel efficiency indicator lights were on about the same amount of time as each other. I'm pleased to admit around 48mpg average highway.
For those of you who knock cruise control.. I'd consider changing your paradigm. The econ button wont allow the engine to rev too high on the freeway.. it won't 'kick down a gear'.. and seems to monitor/control the rpms quite well while adjusting the CVT transmission ratios. Sure, it can't anticipate hills but on my long commute I'd rather not monitor my speed downhills and be in constant anticipation. Let the car do the work, sit back and relax. The computer might actually do math better than humans sometimes!
 
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  #986  
Old 04-27-2016, 08:15 AM
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28k miles and just got 36.5 mpg on the computer for the last 3500 miles.

I drive mainly at 45 - 60 mph 70%
In town 15%
Interstate at 77 mph 15%

2015 EX manual
 
  #987  
Old 04-27-2016, 09:10 AM
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mattaleo- nice job trying it both ways. It helps a lot to see real examples in your own life of the different methods' results: the best hammer in the world isn't going to drive nails well unless you use it properly. As to cruise, it's like any other tool- it only does what it's told to do. In a car with a CVT, an economy setting and a driver willing to stay at an efficient speed, you cant ask for a better mpg situation without getting extreme.

The benefit of letting the car do the work for you can really outweigh the few extra mpg you'd get by obsessing on your own. I don't have a CVT and I use cruise every day, and in our minivan with a 6 speed automatic and an economy button I'm in and out of the economy button as conditions call for.
 
  #988  
Old 04-27-2016, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mattaleo@hotmail.com
For those of you who knock cruise control.. I'd consider changing your paradigm. The econ button wont allow the engine to rev too high on the freeway.. it won't 'kick down a gear'.. and seems to monitor/control the rpms quite well while adjusting the CVT transmission ratios. Sure, it can't anticipate hills but on my long commute I'd rather not monitor my speed downhills and be in constant anticipation. Let the car do the work, sit back and relax. The computer might actually do math better than humans sometimes!
That's not been my experience with the CC and hills. When using cruise control, the RPMs go up several hundred RPM (500-600 RPM) when there is substantial incline. Plus it holds the higher RPMs a lot longer than necessary. On the same incline without cruise control I can keep my speed plus/minus a few mph without such a huge increase in RPM if I modulate the pedal. A larger engine probably wouldn't care in that same scenario but the 1.5L in the Fit does.

I'm in VA and we have a lot of hills so it adds up. Next tanks I'll try running with and without CC on my commute. I didn't really notice the RPM jump until I got the HKS exhaust, now it's an audible alarm LOL.
 
  #989  
Old 04-27-2016, 11:46 AM
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Anyone else notice how sensitive the MPG is if you gently accelerate and keep it below 2k RPM when accellerating from a stop?
 
  #990  
Old 04-27-2016, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
When using cruise control, the RPMs go up several hundred RPM (500-600 RPM) when there is substantial incline. Plus it holds the higher RPMs a lot longer than necessary. On the same incline without cruise control I can keep my speed plus/minus a few mph without such a huge increase in RPM if I modulate the pedal. A larger engine probably wouldn't care in that same scenario but the 1.5L in the Fit does.
This is my experience as well.
 
  #991  
Old 04-27-2016, 06:27 PM
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Whew, just finished reading all 50 pages. I am close to needing to do my first fill up on my new 16' LX. I could not find any mentions of modifications that improve MPG other than this one:

Originally Posted by Fit Charlie
I haven't poked around the GK, but the GE underbody is set up to fail. It's got a huge grille that lets air in and directs it underneath the car. I don't care how smooth it is afterwards, the front end is essentially an air compressor. That's drag that the little 1.5L doesn't need added.

But the front is the least important part of the car's shape; the tail is where the real drag is made. Look at the rear end of a Porsche or a submarine. Then look at the rear end of an 18 wheeler... or a Fit. A tapered rear end gets you much lower drag.

I blocked off my lower grille last month halfway through a tank. The three tanks I have with it on are in my top 5 longest tanks ever, and if I'd gone one mile further on that first tank then three of my four longest tanks would have been with the grille block. In April.
Which, I am not keen on doing as I won't be as attentive. Are there no other things to be done to improve on stock MPG capabilities? No tire/wheel combo that will make a difference? I've read about cold air intakes helping on other cars, is that BS?
 
  #992  
Old 04-27-2016, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear Knuckles
Whew, just finished reading all 50 pages. I am close to needing to do my first fill up on my new 16' LX. I could not find any mentions of modifications that improve MPG other than this one:



Which, I am not keen on doing as I won't be as attentive. Are there no other things to be done to improve on stock MPG capabilities? No tire/wheel combo that will make a difference? I've read about cold air intakes helping on other cars, is that BS?

The biggest thing that will affect MPG is how YOU drive. Hard accelerations, constantly fluttering the gas while on the freeway, not staying at a consistent speed, hard braking, uncessary braking. Will all affect your MPG. Things like oil level/condition, transmission and tranny oil/condition, tire pressure, rolling resistance of tires, timing, spark plugs, air filter, fuel system can affect your MPG as well... improving mpg is mostly dependent on the driver, when it comes to the honda FIT imo.
 
  #993  
Old 04-27-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by csb101
The biggest thing that will affect MPG is how YOU drive. Hard accelerations, constantly fluttering the gas while on the freeway, not staying at a consistent speed, hard braking, uncessary braking. Will all affect your MPG. Things like oil level/condition, transmission and tranny oil/condition, tire pressure, rolling resistance of tires, timing, spark plugs, air filter, fuel system can affect your MPG as well... improving mpg is mostly dependent on the driver, when it comes to the honda FIT imo.
Yep, gleaned that much from reading everyone's experiences. I am specifically interested in mods/hardware etc. But, if it doesn't make a discernible difference then that is that.
 
  #994  
Old 04-27-2016, 09:57 PM
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The only hardware mod that really affects mpg is adjusting the nut behind the wheel. All the aero, electronic, gearing, weight and tire changes in the world won't result in any efficiency gains if you refuse to behave efficiently. The best tool in the world only does what you tell it to do: if you can't cook, a new set of pots won't help. If you can't play, bidding on this all original 1957 Stratocaster isn't going to make you sound better, and buying a Ferrari won't turn you into Michael Schumacher.

If you insist on a hardware-only solution, get the car with the highest EPA test result you can find with every automatic feature available to remove yourself as far as possible from the driving process. Buying a Fit, you've probably already done that. You've gotten all the mileage you can buy with this car.

You've got a Fit. It gets good mileage right out of the box. Wait until you check your pump receipt against your odometer, you'll probably be happy with what you're getting. If you aren't happy then there's a lot of room for improvement, but it's all on you.
 
  #995  
Old 04-27-2016, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fit Charlie
The only hardware mod that really affects mpg is adjusting the nut behind the wheel. All the aero, electronic, gearing, weight and tire changes in the world won't result in any efficiency gains if you refuse to behave efficiently. The best tool in the world only does what you tell it to do: if you can't cook, a new set of pots won't help. If you can't play, bidding on this all original 1957 Stratocaster isn't going to make you sound better, and buying a Ferrari won't turn you into Michael Schumacher.

If you insist on a hardware-only solution, get the car with the highest EPA test result you can find with every automatic feature available to remove yourself as far as possible from the driving process. Buying a Fit, you've probably already done that. You've gotten all the mileage you can buy with this car.

You've got a Fit. It gets good mileage right out of the box. Wait until you check your pump receipt against your odometer, you'll probably be happy with what you're getting. If you aren't happy then there's a lot of room for improvement, but it's all on you.
Yup, that nut loose behind the wheel. Bank in the day, I had a new 1964 Tri-Power GTO. no air, no ps, nobody's definition of an economy car. Weekly drives from Nashville to Gookeville, about 90 miles each way, good roads, but not interstate. 75 mph, 19 mpg very steady right prosthetic foot. Now the Fit, same trip, interstate the whole way. 41 mpg, cruse control. Could I have done better without CC? Maybe, but the steady foot and pace is the key to best mileage without gimmicks or special technics.

Old Goat Owner.
 
  #996  
Old 04-29-2016, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Fit Charlie
The only hardware mod that really affects mpg is adjusting the nut behind the wheel. All the aero, electronic, gearing, weight and tire changes in the world won't result in any efficiency gains if you refuse to behave efficiently. The best tool in the world only does what you tell it to do: if you can't cook, a new set of pots won't help. If you can't play, bidding on this all original 1957 Stratocaster isn't going to make you sound better, and buying a Ferrari won't turn you into Michael Schumacher.

If you insist on a hardware-only solution, get the car with the highest EPA test result you can find with every automatic feature available to remove yourself as far as possible from the driving process. Buying a Fit, you've probably already done that. You've gotten all the mileage you can buy with this car.

You've got a Fit. It gets good mileage right out of the box. Wait until you check your pump receipt against your odometer, you'll probably be happy with what you're getting. If you aren't happy then there's a lot of room for improvement, but it's all on you.
I don't know what else I can say to communicate that I get it.

Originally Posted by Bear Knuckles
Yep, gleaned that much from reading everyone's experiences. I am specifically interested in mods/hardware etc. But, if it doesn't make a discernible difference then that is that.
Is my question offensive? =/

Edit:

Added my first fuel up, guys! Banner should be in my signature, and I took a pic of the gauge:


Notes for first fuel up (copied from Fuelly):
Fuel light came on at about approximately 30 miles range with two bars left in gauge. I kept driving it until there was one bar left on the gauge.

First tank of gas from dealer. Had the ECON button on the whole time. Mostly drove 60-65 on freeway using cruise control. Had two days where I ate my lunch in my car with the AC on, like a dumbass.

CFN gas, 2816 West Capitol Avenue, West Sacramento - Pump #2

~60/40 Freeway to City ratio.
 

Last edited by Bear Knuckles; 04-29-2016 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Added first fuel up
  #997  
Old 04-29-2016, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear Knuckles
I don't know what else I can say to communicate that I get it.



Is my question offensive? =/

Edit:

Added my first fuel up, guys! Banner should be in my signature, and I took a pic of the gauge:


Notes for first fuel up (copied from Fuelly):
Fuel light came on at about approximately 30 miles range with two bars left in gauge. I kept driving it until there was one bar left on the gauge.

First tank of gas from dealer. Had the ECON button on the whole time. Mostly drove 60-65 on freeway using cruise control. Had two days where I ate my lunch in my car with the AC on, like a dumbass.

CFN gas, 2816 West Capitol Avenue, West Sacramento - Pump #2

~60/40 Freeway to City ratio.
You could try looking into low rolling resistant tires, I know the Civic HF has them. you could also loook into making the car lighter using Carbon Fiber pieces, replacements for hood, trunk, fenders, doors. Look to lower the weight of unsprung weight. Lower Control arms, Axles, Brake calipers, Brake Rotors, rims, tires. I know the stock exhaust system can carry a decent amount of weight... The car by itself is really good already. I'm essentially describing a race car, for better MPG lol.

The problem with what I just listed is the cost of it all to save MPG.
 
  #998  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by csb101

The problem with what I just listed is the cost of it all to save MPG.
That's a valid point. At a certain extent you no longer benefit from savings if you're spending a lot of money to get slightly incremental improvements.
 
  #999  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:27 PM
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Only 2 normal mods for better mpg. 1. Drive like you have all the time in the world, almost never reach 40% throttle. 2. Lightweight rim and tires.
 
  #1000  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BrucesFit
Only 2 normal mods for better mpg. 1. Drive like you have all the time in the world, almost never reach 40% throttle. 2. Lightweight rim and tires.
Also, keep people out of your car for a double benefit.
 


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