You should always read the fine print before you sign. It's impossible to say for sure what will happen to your deposit without knowing what you signed off on.

 

True true I mean I asked him like 5 times and he said I could get it back, but then again I'm still worried. .....

 

Try to get a copy of what you signed.

 

You're not going to be seeing an LX for a while. Dealers usually try to get all the EX and EX-L gone before they start selling the lower trims.

 

Dealer I was at had at LEAST two LX's.

Problem is, I didn't want an LX, so miraculously an EX showed up. When I didn't want that color, miraculously they found an EX in the color I wanted in the back somewhere.

As if a brand new car shipped in is going to have been inexplicably misplaced...

 

I just hate the shady tactics that happen in the finance office. They keep you at the dealer pretty much all day long waiting and waiting and doing a few things and waiting... and then when you're wanting to sign for the car and get everything overwith the cleaning crew is coming through cleaning the dealership. While you're working your way through stacks of paper, if there's a mistake or for some reason you don't want the deal that they automatically assumed, they need to reprint everything again.

Basically they do everything in their power it seems to encourage you to NOT read the paperwork.



But yes, as we've learned, read everything. Read it twice. If the salesman wants to go home, let him go home. If you need to do it another day, do it another day. You'll find that things you didn't explicable say "yes i want that" will nonetheless find their way on your paperwork printed out and added to the whole.

And if you do end up cancelling, you can get the total loan price reduced by the value of the addon stuff, but you can't get the monthly cost reduced.

 

Yeah, too bad. Seem like no one in SoCal has the blue at the moment.

 

Have you called the 5 dealers in SoCal that show blue Fits on cars.com?

 

I am in Los Angeles, did a search for Blue for EX model, only 3 within 100 miles.

1 Blue = Manual
1 Blue = Hollywood Honda, they have had that listed there for awhile, but still no ETA.
1 Blue = New listing from Galpin Honda, haven't called them as this info probably came in today. And weekend = play time, not car searching here :P. Will give them a call tomorrow and see what they say on the ETA

 

Somehow I got this sinking feeling that the dealership will try to sell me the proctology pack.

 

Was at DCH Honda in San Diego Friday afternoon and saw Fits newly delivered, including a Blue EX. Not sure if it's still there.

 

Got mine! EX-L

The dealer included the accessory package, mats, cargo liner door protection and VIN etching for free.

Paid 20,500.

Traded in my 2010 FIT Sport. Got 7500 in trade for it, but only owed 6900, so that worked out!

 

Went to pick up a blue LX CVT at a dealership that I saw on Saturday and it sold yesterday (On a Sunday).

So....I went to another dealership and figure I'd try to strike up a deal using the information from this thread. I'm not a stranger to purchasing new cars, I just never 'wheel-n-deal'. I hate that....

So I ended up putting $500 down for an LX CVT (Color doesn't matter to me either way). The car has to be delivered by 7/15/14 or the deal is off and I am refunded the $500.00. Salesman put this in writing. I also asked him to put all fee's associated with this purchase in writing so I know ahead of time and I could talk to my credit union about it. The total price is the price going out the door. The pre-paperwork is as follows -->

Deal is:
MSRP: $17,115
W/L Fee (Forgot what this is): $125
Doc Fee/State Tax: $645
Tag/Title Fee: $245

Total: $18,130

We will see when we get there. This is all for now.

 

Thundercracker, What was your out the door price after taxes and everything else?

 

It was 20,500 plus tax and GAP (799) which worked out to $1435, so the final price was about $23700.

I did some wheeler dealering. Basically I told him that I was just as happy walking out with my 2010 fit as the new one. I chipped him on the accessory pack. It didn't hurt that I led him to another deal on my old car.

A couple wanted to buy it off me when I parked. (Lucky me). So I worked a deal with the sales man that if they bought my old car, he would comp the accessory pack.

 

But 7500 for a 2010? When I traded my 2009 for my 2012 I got 12k. What was up with your 2010? High miles?

 

Yeah. 95000 miles in four years. I tend to drive a lot for work.

 

Verbal agreements aren't worth the paper they are written on!

I see no point to a deposit. All it does is give them your money to hold hostage in order to pressure you and lock you into that dealership. Good luck on getting it back if a car becomes available at a different dealer.

I don't give them any money until the deal is calculated and the final number is in front of me. At that point I have the information I need to either buy or walk.

 

If they refuse it, ask them how much business they think you can cause them to lose by word of mouth, using their own social media, and yelp.

It's easily more than $500.

I'm sure they'll weigh the pros and cons. I think usually they'll side with the guy won't cause a crapstorm for them.

 

Modern steel metallic EX is what I test drove yesterday...the car came off the car hauler still had the plastic on the hood and wheels no screens or cameras synced up yet. Hubby fit behind wheel good. He loved the pick up...I loved driving it....now I'm ready to deal with a different dealer Saturday morning by myself I will put a 500 deposit down only if I get in writing I can get it back. I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that needs 3000 to 5000 dollars engine work. So I'm asking for a red EX-L red no Navi......20590 sticker price plus reg and taxes I'm figuring 2000 so 22590 minus 2500 for my car brings me to 20090 am I missing anything. Going Saturday morning....thanks for any help..
I'm so excited.....
Sas.