How common is the water problem?
#1
How common is the water problem?
Helloes~
This may sound stupid but I was just about to buy a barely used 2018 Fit this month until, I discovered a couple of threads here about water leaking into the cabin and soaking up the carpets so I chickened out. I’m a young woman, not particularly keen on the idea of having to do any repairs myself, mostly because I don’t think I’d be able to do them well enough, but it sounds like if I did get a Fit I’d have to do this leak-hunt and sealing project eventually. It seems like there are 4 main causes, AC problems, vapor seals, moon roof drains and cracks around the hatch door. How common is this problem and is it mostly the ones built in a certain region? Do you think I can avoid it by buying the ones made in Japan?
Nothing else I’ve researched suits my needs like the Fit does but now I’m paralyzed worrying about this. Any encouragement or reassurance that it needn’t be that hard to fix and is actually worth the hassle appreciated.
This may sound stupid but I was just about to buy a barely used 2018 Fit this month until, I discovered a couple of threads here about water leaking into the cabin and soaking up the carpets so I chickened out. I’m a young woman, not particularly keen on the idea of having to do any repairs myself, mostly because I don’t think I’d be able to do them well enough, but it sounds like if I did get a Fit I’d have to do this leak-hunt and sealing project eventually. It seems like there are 4 main causes, AC problems, vapor seals, moon roof drains and cracks around the hatch door. How common is this problem and is it mostly the ones built in a certain region? Do you think I can avoid it by buying the ones made in Japan?
Nothing else I’ve researched suits my needs like the Fit does but now I’m paralyzed worrying about this. Any encouragement or reassurance that it needn’t be that hard to fix and is actually worth the hassle appreciated.
#2
I have a Mexican built 2016 Fit EX and so far, have no issues with this (then again, i park in a garage).
IMHO, I'd not bother worrying about the leaks. On this car there are other more important issues to concern yourself with.
IMHO, I'd not bother worrying about the leaks. On this car there are other more important issues to concern yourself with.
#3
I bought a 2015 LX in part because I didn't want a sunroof, but the hatch hasn't leaked in the four years I've had it, and I park outside in the Seattle area. Mind you, that's a sample size of one, but it's one of the wettest parts of the country.
#4
what are the more important problems? And is it still worth it?
#5
Water pooling in the bottom of the doors is one of the unintended consequences of the 2018 mid-cycle refresh design change. If you're trying to avoid this issue, best to avoid the 2018+ models and get a 2015-17. But...
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
#6
& my 2016LX (Japan made, parked out doors north of Seattle) has had none of the listed issues. .. .. ..
Water pooling in the bottom of the doors is one of the unintended consequences of the 2018 mid-cycle refresh design change. If you're trying to avoid this issue, best to avoid the 2018+ models and get a 2015-17. But...
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
#7
See above posts
IMHO, despite being a "Honda", this car doesn't display most of the traits that made the brand successful 30-40 years ago.
Only after I bought my Fit did I realize the issues it has. I seriously considered selling it as a result, but soon found out that it had 3 years of Honda Care warranty left.
So far the dealership has been awesome to deal with the issues (VTC issue, squeaking clutch pedal). I'm sure I'll have more, but I have 2.5 more years of warranty that I can take advantage of.
IMHO, despite being a "Honda", this car doesn't display most of the traits that made the brand successful 30-40 years ago.
Only after I bought my Fit did I realize the issues it has. I seriously considered selling it as a result, but soon found out that it had 3 years of Honda Care warranty left.
So far the dealership has been awesome to deal with the issues (VTC issue, squeaking clutch pedal). I'm sure I'll have more, but I have 2.5 more years of warranty that I can take advantage of.
#8
Water pooling in the bottom of the doors is one of the unintended consequences of the 2018 mid-cycle refresh design change. If you're trying to avoid this issue, best to avoid the 2018+ models and get a 2015-17. But...
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
There are problems with the 2015-17 as well you should be aware of, and they're not fun:
1. Fuel injector / rail assembly is a major problem area. One injector starts throwing codes, then all do, and you're left with replacing the whole assembly. Can't buy just one injector, have to purchase new in quad-matched sets. $2-3K repair easy.
2. Starters on the pushbutton start models, as well as the start switch itself, are prone to early failure. Often when one goes, it's ascribed to the other. Honda has recently started goodwilling the switch, but not the starter. Doesn't seem to be an issue on key start models. ~700 for a new starter.
3. Roof drain leaks and hatch leaks, as you've discovered.
4. VTC actuator. Makes a horrible grinding noise at cold startup (my '16 LX does this) but supposedly not an issue otherwise. Some here are having theirs replaced anyway.
Hopefully this will give you a better overview of what the major mechanical issues are outside of leaks.
#9
I think the prices quoted for the repairs above must be from a dealership, I think I've heard people here getting the injectors done at independent mechanics for not too much over $1k. I replaced my (key start) starter at home, obviously not everyone has the space or experience to do this but the part cost somewhere around $2-300. There's definitely not four hours of labor in that job, I'm way slower than a professional mechanic and I did it in two.
The difference I'm talking about is that the dealers are known for charging what the book says even if it takes less time, and often for dramatically overcharging or even for work they don't bother doing. Stories of marked tires that never got rotated, or oil that never got changed aren't super common, but they're not rare either. I had my favorite shop swap a transmission on a Mk3 Jetta, and they called to say the clutch was about worn out, and I should replace it as long as they were in there. Now, I could feel the clutch being weak while driving the car, so I know they weren't lying, but I was poor at the time and didn't want to pay for the work- but they said "why would we charge extra labor, when we already have it apart?"
Find me a dealer that won't charge the book rate on a clutch job, or take at most an hour of the labor time off, and you've found yourself a dealer that will do the injector job for way less than $3k.
And you're going to see a lot of talk about injectors here, because of how big the problem is if you have it. What nobody really knows is how frequent the problem is- everyone whose car is running fine won't bother to chime in and say so, but I've got over 100k miles and no sign of trouble.
The difference I'm talking about is that the dealers are known for charging what the book says even if it takes less time, and often for dramatically overcharging or even for work they don't bother doing. Stories of marked tires that never got rotated, or oil that never got changed aren't super common, but they're not rare either. I had my favorite shop swap a transmission on a Mk3 Jetta, and they called to say the clutch was about worn out, and I should replace it as long as they were in there. Now, I could feel the clutch being weak while driving the car, so I know they weren't lying, but I was poor at the time and didn't want to pay for the work- but they said "why would we charge extra labor, when we already have it apart?"
Find me a dealer that won't charge the book rate on a clutch job, or take at most an hour of the labor time off, and you've found yourself a dealer that will do the injector job for way less than $3k.
And you're going to see a lot of talk about injectors here, because of how big the problem is if you have it. What nobody really knows is how frequent the problem is- everyone whose car is running fine won't bother to chime in and say so, but I've got over 100k miles and no sign of trouble.
#11
2018 onward models are also subject to the fuel pump recall, in addition to all the other problems I've outlined. Many 2018+ models are still having injector issues. Replaced if still within warranty, but out of warranty, you're on your own.
Injectors replaced for under a grand? Just from a parts standpoint, I looked up some prices for single injectors, anywhere from $210-270 each. Couldn't find any quad-matched sets, could be supply chain issues with the pandemic.
What about the rail assembly? The TSB that covered all 2015 and early 2016 models indicated replacing the rail assembly as well, not just the injectors. Doubt Honda would have went to the trouble of replacing the rail assembly if it weren't part of the design issue, so in my mind, it's still suspect.
If you repair with non-matched injectors and don't do anything about the rail assembly, I'm not sure what the long-term viability is. Even if you replace the injectors with quad-matched sets and the rail assembly as well, we don't know how much time this buys because the design is still suspect. Otherwise we wouldn't still be hearing about problems with injectors in the very latest models.
This is why I no longer recommend the GK5. The injector issue is a dealbreaker for me. If I wanted another Fit in the US, I'd be looking at the previous gen. At least we know most of the problems there, and they're not as severe as the injector problem.
Injectors replaced for under a grand? Just from a parts standpoint, I looked up some prices for single injectors, anywhere from $210-270 each. Couldn't find any quad-matched sets, could be supply chain issues with the pandemic.
What about the rail assembly? The TSB that covered all 2015 and early 2016 models indicated replacing the rail assembly as well, not just the injectors. Doubt Honda would have went to the trouble of replacing the rail assembly if it weren't part of the design issue, so in my mind, it's still suspect.
If you repair with non-matched injectors and don't do anything about the rail assembly, I'm not sure what the long-term viability is. Even if you replace the injectors with quad-matched sets and the rail assembly as well, we don't know how much time this buys because the design is still suspect. Otherwise we wouldn't still be hearing about problems with injectors in the very latest models.
This is why I no longer recommend the GK5. The injector issue is a dealbreaker for me. If I wanted another Fit in the US, I'd be looking at the previous gen. At least we know most of the problems there, and they're not as severe as the injector problem.
Last edited by bargainguy; 07-28-2021 at 01:18 PM.
#12
Two particular cars comes to mind are the Toyota Yaris/Corolla. Either will give considerably less headaches and more reliability as it ages.
My GF and I were dead set on a Lime Green Fiesta ST. It was only because of clutch issues and a need ASAP for a car that we ended up with our yellow Fit.
I still like the car, just not as much as if it were a Fiesta ST (which is comparable in reliability).
Good Luck!
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