Anytime TCroly! The answer to your question is yes and no though. I stumbled upon an observation with accelerating the CVT. It may have been reported elsewhere but there is a way you can shave anywhere from 3/10ths to a half a second off your 0-60 time and 1/4 mile in the CVT (without any modifications). I made four videos of this observation and will be reporting about it in another thread. Did four runs, two in each direction, testing before and after to get the results.

I need to test this at a dragstrip for final confirmation. I'm at work now but will probably post up the videos later on today.

 

*Update*
I just ordered an HKS panel filter from Vivid Racing. It is 'S SIZE（70017-AK001)'. I believe this will fit the 2015 Fit. Again, I have no expectations. I try things and simply report the results. I've never really expected any real difference from panel filters anyway BUT I read this -->

Toyota FT86 Dyno Runs That stock filter looks really similar to our Fit's stock air filter. Look at the before and after results after installing this HKS panel filter. No, I'm not saying this is what we'd get and again, it's not an expectation of mine. This is the reason for me trying it though.

So, when I receive it, I'll be doing 1/4 mile runs with the 'clean' stock air filter vs the HKS panel air filter. It should arrive by the time I get back to the dragstrip. Been working 60-88 hr work weeks. Definitely will be having fun by the end of next week again.




My current short term goal is to break into the high 15 second 1/4 mile time range. From what I've been reading, this has not been done yet in an N/A fit.

 

Sorry for bumping in again. For sure you will feel an improvement in response, especially at low rpms. Probably it will have a bit of "air sucking" sound also, as a nice note.
Good luck!

 

**Update**

Started another thread with a small modification that was done to the stock intake here --> Stock Intake Mod I was gonna add it here but it was not a part of the original intakes that were being tested.


Since I will be testing this at a drags trip Tuesday and Wednesday nights, I will post the 1/4 mile result up here though.

**Updated 4/24/15**

I realized after reading back through this thread, I did not post up my drag strip times from doing this modification. My apologies!
This is the stock intake with the small air filter mounted after the maf sensor, like you see in the pic above.

~~Adding info since tickets are fading~~

Cecil County Raceway 8/27/14
**HPS Cone Filter, No rear seat, No Spare Tire, Stock Exhaust**
81F - 83F
16.811 (no mph)
17.041@86.06mph
16.895@85.48mph
16.866@85.30mph

Atco Raceway 8/28/15
**Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust, Lightweight Wheels**
69F-70F
16.618@85.52mph
16.607@85.78mph
16.752@85.77mph
16.779@85.17mph

Atco Raceway 9/9/14
16.779@85.17mph
16.628@85.57mph
16.284@86.63mph
16.346@86.27mph

Cecil County Dragway 9/10/14
Mods: 2" Max Flo Pro Muffler, Removed Spare, Removed Rear Seat, Lightweight Wheels
**Testing modified stock vs prototype intake**
Modified Stock is with the tiny filter installed between the maf and throttle body. Prototype is the PRM air filter setup that I'm testing.
MS = Modified Stock, P = Prototype
MS = 16.633@85.31mph
P = 16.241@87.74mph
P = 16.218@87.31mph
P = 16.017@88.96mph
P = 16.129@86.85mph
P = 16.298@87.48mph
P = 16.377@87.32mph
MS = 16.087@86.67mph
MS = 16.220@86.03mph

When I test different intake setups, I change it at the track, multiple times. This way, I can't say intake was better than the other due only to weather temp, wind direction, humidity, etc.

 

**Update**

In my haste to get the HKS panel air filter, I only purchased a replacement air filter, not the whole unit. So I'm unable to test this out this weekend unfortunately. There is street car racing tomorrow night at Cecil County and an Import racing event Saturday and Sunday at Atco Raceway. Will have to hold off this test though until further notice.

 

Cut it up and put it on the vacuum cleaner setup somehow.

 

**Updated**

I just added names to all the intakes. Also, I was bored after doing chores around the house so I put this together just before going to work. I call it the Myxal LOL intake. It's basically an S&B air filter on the maf sensor but the air filter is ridiculously huge. Yeah, it'll breathe in some hot air but it laughs at the word 'restriction'. LOL! Yeah, some may laugh at it due to the filter being so big. That's just how we roll.....




Here's what the S&B air filter looks like next to an HPS intake air filter --->




I'll be driving around like this for a bit until a piece I've ordered will help me complete a PRM intake I'm gonna make. Stay tuned!

 

There is still more testing to do. I have a lingering question in my head that needs answering. Something along the lines of intake velocity and piping diameter.

Currently I'm still running this intake setup -->

It starts off at 2".
Opens to a 2.5" 90 degree bend
Opens more to a 3" pipe
Then it's 3 inches all the way out to the cold air piping.

I did it this way to simulate results I got from an intake test I did on my 2010 Toyota RAV4 V6 at the drag strip. You can read up about it here --> Intake Observation at Dragstrip

Now...this is what I'm interested in testing out.
2" - 2.5" to 3"
VS
2" - 3"

Why? Because I read in a physics forum this -->
"general rule of thumb:
1)the more volume in your intake track the the more sluggish the throttle response for sudden opening of the throttle but The Better The Top End
2)the intake track is only as strong as its bottle neck, generally speaking. so a 4ft long intake tube thats half 2.5in diameter and the other half 3in is alot like a straight 2.5in diameter tube as far as maximum efficient airflow."
From here ---> Air flow in pipe, diameter change, affect performance?

Will test this on the dragstrip on 2-27-15 if it seems worthwhile. Gonna have to get the piping and hopefully test it this Friday. If in fact it helps on the topend, the CVT tranny is ALL topend so it'd be a huge plus (from a track standpoint, not daily driving). If I get the piping this week, I'll take a look at max maf sensor g/s (Grams Per Second) readings, and maybe compare hp/tq readings from Android Torque Pro and check video of each run to see how they compare as far as mph goes. I'll only report the max maf readings though. Everything else is subjective and could be off based on certain variables.

Only one way to find out. Stay tuned!

 

I never did update my findings from the intake diameter testing.

2 X 3 Inch Intake
2” maf Sensor
2” – 3” 90 degree coupler
3” piping
Max maf grams per second = 96g/s
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 X 2.5 X 3 Inch Intake
2” maf sensor,
2-2.5” coupler
2.5” 90 degree pipe
2.5” - 3” coupler
3” pipe
Max maf grams per second = 107g/s


0-60 and 1/4 mile times were slightly better with the 2" to 2.5" to 3" setup. I won't quote hp/tq numbers because they aren't consistent.

This all tells me that air intake velocity may be more important than air volume when trying to make power. This isn't scientific. I just like doing these things to know.



So, I have some more questions around intake diameters and flow transitions.
I know from reading that air velocity slows down going around a bend. A quote here at this site spoke of a Neon site and exhaust gases. It stated everytime a gas hits a turn/bend, exhaust velocity decreases by 8%. I thought that was interesting.

So....what if you had a larger diameter pipe and it hits a bend?
What if you decreased the diameter after the bend?
Will it speed the intake gases back up again?
What if you decreased the diameter of the pipe before it hit the bend?
Will it increase the velocity first then it slow down around the bend....and it make the gas flow reach back to its normal velocity?

Couldn't find any answers to this in the physics forums or papers written on the net. What I mostly want to know if it testing something like this will show itself on a dyno or 1/4 mile time.



These are some extra transition pieces I purchased. One is 2" to 2.5" and one is 2.5" to 3". I will be testing the 2.5" to 3" on the PRM intake tonight. I'm just moving where the transition takes place to see if it has an affect on velocity and hp.

Here's pic of my current setup and how I will use the pipe.


My current setup is 2" off the throttle body.
It opens up to a 2.5" coupler then a 90 degree 2.5" pipe.
Then it opens up to 3" piping all the way to the cold air inlet.

I like this setup but something tells me that it transitions to 3" too soon. So the pipe next to it that you see in the pic is 2.5". I'm replacing the 3" part with the 2.5" part to see if velocity increases, which should help with lowend torque more and perhaps topend as well. It's not as much volume as the 3" but it should flow faster.

I'll stop rambling now. This is just how my mind goes but I have to see how these things work.

 

More intake observations!

1) When going from the 2" maf sensor immediately to 3", mpg went way down. Was averaging 28-32mpg. *Highway*

2) When going to a 2" maf sensor to 2.5" (short pipe) pipe to 3" pipe, mpg went up to 35-37mpg. *Highway*

3) When going from 2" maf sensor to 2.5" (longer pipe) to 3" pipe, mpg went up to 42-43mpg. *Highway*

Although these figures may not be exact, it's just general information to let you know what results you could possibly get. Just logging my findings.

The all 2" stock piping/box/etc was around 45-48mpg on the highway. That was with stock exhaust though and after I had installed lighter wheels/tires on it. It was around 44mpg all stock. Have yet to test it again.

 

It's the first Wednesday night this year Cecil County Dragway is open for Test-N-Tune. Gonna test the pieces I mentioned above. Found a better 2" to 3" (Red Silicone in pic) to test instead of a previous ghetto connected piece. Gonna test that too! If I have some time left, I'll throw on the 'LOL intake' (Which is the huge air filter only) JUST to see what difference it makes and compare them all. I'll do two runs with each intake piece if I can fit it them all in, in this order...

1) 2" to 2.5" 90 degree and 2.5" straight pipe to 3",
2) 2" to 3" 90 degree silicone
3) 2" to 2.5" 90 degree to 2.5"/3" coupler
2) HUGE air filter just connected to maf sensor

I'll be resetting the ECU after doing each of the two runs. I never reset the ECU before making any changes at the track on this car.

Temps will be 47 degrees to start and tapering down to 43 with humidity forecasted to 48 down to 44 or so by the time I finish. The only reason why I'm on testing the stock air box is I already have and this long tube setup is 1.5-2mph faster than it and a couple of tenths quicker. As small as these changes seem, who knows what the affect of it will be. Searched the internet and I honestly cant find any information on changing diameters of intakes and their affect (I mean a piping change on the same intake). Doing all of this from my experience making a change like this on my RAV4 (Google RAV4 Intake Diameter Observation). Should be interesting, even if there are no changes! I just have to know.


Was test fitting. The 2" to maf had to be forced on. Probably should've gotten a slightly larger diameter silicone. No matter! Just need to know how this performs. Excuse the duct tape. I don't want any air being pulled from anywhere else but the ram air portion.

 

I didn't want to do the huge air filter. I used an HPS air filter that is used on the older fits. I had duct tape, small cardboard boxes (holding tools, etc), a knife and some scissors. Figured I may as well try to make a cold air box for my last run. This was done at the dragstrip, under one of the street lights in the pit area, after doing my other intake testing runs. So I didn't have a lot of time.
So I lined a small box up with the maf sensor.


I cut a hole for the air filter to mount to the maf sensor then cut another hole for the cold air piping to be inserted into.


Close the box up and did my last run. Last run was -->
15.675@88.92mph **Tires broke loose**



Throttle response feels better with this intake. I like it! If only we can somehow get that cold-air to be piped into a opening/container right at the corner of an air filter that is mounted on the maf sensor. This would be perfect! It'd have to be fully enclosed! This would prevent the cold air piping from being exposed to any more under hood temperatures than it needs to be. Driving home with the filter in the box, intake air temperature stayed +3F more than the outside air. Something tells me that the temperature variance is much better than my previous intake setup due to the previous intake's 180 degree piping turn that is near the transmission and firewall which captures more heat as the air passes by.
***Take special note that my quickest run with the filter in the box also still had the PRM filter hooked up behind it. Two filters that air had to pass through. Interesting to say the least.***


So no huge gains! Some slight differences. That's all for now. Had fun!

 

Settled on the intake above. Small slight differences but I like this one overall. It's the 2" at the maf to 2.5" 90 degree to 2.5" straight pipe that opens up to the 3" 180 degree silicone piece.
Also, I reflashed the ECU on 4-2-15.
. ^^^I'm bolding it for me to reference later when I look back. Please excuse the ugly duct tape look. You can't see it with the hood closed.

I kept looking at my 1/4 mile runs and no matter what I've done intake/exhaust wise, I have not been able to simulate the low 15 second 1/4 mile runs I previously got at Cecil County Dragway back in November. I am thinking (Almost positive now) that it was the reflash I did on my ECU in late January. I ran a test of cam angle settings with the Ktuner at 0 cam, 10cam, 20cam, 30cam and 40 cam. 40 cam seemed the most promising. However, I never compared the 40cam against the stock cam settings (which move around). I did some datalogging last night and the stock cam settings appear to be better overall than the flat/steady 40 cam angle setting that stays at 40 cam angle throughout the whole rpm (mostly). This was the only thing I did between December and January to affect my February runs. I looked at some maf voltage, maf g/s, injector duty cycle readings, etc and to me it seems the stock setup is better. Only one way to find out though.

Sooo.......time for some more testing at the strip when I get a chance. Can't wait and hope the weather stays on the cool side.

 

It's my day off so you know what that means. Time to play with ideas. I'm going to try to put together a revised (1st revision) of the intake above. I'll post up more of the reasons why I will be testing this but it will be bringing in the best of both worlds (SRI and CAI). I'll post up pics when I'm done and explain why I made it the way I did. I'm expecting it to be as close to perfect (Only in my mind) intake for top-end power, which is exactly where the CVT stays during wide open throttle (WOT).

**Stay Tuned**

 

Yes, I'm dubbing this the Myxal Short Ram Intake, Cold Air Intake, Ram-air Intake. It has all the benefits of a short ram intake while sucking in cold-air through the J's Racing front grille. Woot Woot!

I can't finish it just yet since I have to run out and pick up the wifey and mother-in-law. I'll take a picture when I finish it when I get back. I'll add a top cover to it, and surround it with aluminum foil and duct tape here and there. I wanted to eliminate the accordion blue piece which makes the airflow a little turbulent. I also wanted to remove the 180 degree bend that is over the transmission and near the firewall. This can only pickup heat in this section. Intake air temps with the previous cold-air temperature always stays between 3-5 degress above ambient, with a best of 2 degrees warmer. This is awesome! Still, I want to strive for the air intake to be exactly the same as ambient. Can't hurt to try. This setup should be the ticket or pretty damn close.

And yes, it's lighter than the stock intake too. I mean, how much does cardboard weigh? I won't win any car shows but this will be interesting to test.




Edit --->
Cold Air Box in the making! Adding a 'lid' to the box to seal it off. Fun stuff! Laugh if you want!
Aluminum being added to help keep the cold air in and the warm air out. Hope it works!




Almost completed



Completed! Added the official name to it. Lol! This should be fun!



Yeah, Yeah, I know the air pathway ain't the greatest since the air comes crashing against the maf sensor and all. Who cares! That's why we test things to find out what it'll do. This is only revision #1. Ideally, I'd like to move the battery to another location and utilize that area for a bigger cold air box and a bigger air filter (Lol Intake). This way, I'll have more flexibility on how the cold air enters in with less items in the way. To be continued!


Quoting this from earlier in the thread. And yes, you were right. Credit given!

 

**4-13-15 Update**

I tested the Myxal SRI-CAI to see if it would get the air intake temperature closer to the outside air temperature than the PRM cold-air intake. It was a success. Outside temperature was 64F while the intake air temperature was 64.4F.

See video here -->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lwkc...ature=youtu.be

I'm liking this setup so far. It has the least amount of bends for the air to get into the maf and throttle body. The only way I can make this better is to have the cold-air box attached directly to the front grille entrance and have the air shoot directly in towards the filter. I'd have to cut a hole into the grille area to do this so the air doesn't get directed upwards into the ram air piece. I'll leave it as it is for now. Mission complete! Now to test it out at the track.

Also, I'll be changing out the K&N air filter (That's used on the HPD intakes) to an S&B air filter. The S&B air filter I ordered will be an inch longer than the HPD one and it'll also have filter mesh on the top of the filter for more flow. Will take pics of it side-by-side with the HPD air filter once it arrives. If there is an ounce of restriction due to not enough filter surface area, I want to do as much as possible to remove restriction by having more filter for air to flow through.

 

Dude I am loving the chambered style intake, I think that is going to be your best bet, can't wait to see your final result with it, and nice video, alot quicker than I was thinking keep it up man I know we all appreciate it.

 

Glad I could help! Hopefully this setup gives you close to your best 1/4 mile times so far.

 

good stuff! great r&d

but this gets me thinking, isn't the chambered type (last one) is almost same as the stock box just with a bigger hose and shorter travel? but the concept basically the same?

Waiting for the final product!

 

Yes and Yes!