Hi all. This is my first post, please don't flame me too hard, but I need to be schooled on my possible new wheel set-up. Please pardon me if this topic has been covered multiple times, but I'm looking for more specific information regarding this particular fitment.

I've been browsing for a set of BBS RS since I picked up my GE8 and 4x100 set-ups seem to be more expensive than 5x114 set-ups. I found a set of 5x114.3's on craigslist that fit my taste (power coated tiffany blue with polished lips) and they come with nitto neoGen tires for $900, which sounds like a decent deal, everything else seems to be $1200+ without tires.

Wheel specs:
5x114.3
16x7.5 et33

I know wheel adaptors are frowned upon, especially in the honda scene, but they seem to be accepted in the VW and stance scene. If installed correctly and used properly they seem to work. I know some people have horror stories.

From my research and reading forums, a set of 2 piece adaptors will add a minimum of 1.5" up to 2" off the hub and run about $250 for a set. And it also seems that wheel spacers in the rear are popular for our fits, so that eliminates the need for buying those.

I am running KW Variant 1 adjustable coil overs.

SO, I guess my biggest question is, will they fit? Is a 2" addition to the front going to cause a crazy poke? I'm not scared of an aggressive fitment, and I'm willing to roll my fenders, but is 2" off the hub too much? It's difficult to gauge the fitment without seeing them in person.

What are other drawbacks and headaches may I be overlooking?

Is anyone else in FF running this type of setup?

Should I just stop being cheap and get a proper 4x100 setup?

Thanks in advance for helping me out.

 

NO. NO. NO. just in case: NO !
adapters from 4x100 to or from 5x144 are not available as two of the 'holes' are virulally on top of the 'matching others.
if you are adapting 5x100 to 5x114 that is easy but take care about offsets. a 15mm thick adapter will work nicely if the offset of the 'new' wheel is 15 mm deeper than the 'old' wheels because the 15 mm thickness makes the centerline of the new wheel the same as the old. there is one here doing exactly that. old honda 5x114.3/55 on 5x114.3 hub with 15 mm adapter in place of OEM 5x114,3/45mm wheels.

byw, this should have been left in general; way too few Fit owners are aware that 4x100 to 5x114, or 5x100, is not possible safely.

 

thanks for setting me straight mahout. I appreciate the insight. I suppose thats why there aren't a whole lot of adaptors on the market, and the ones that are out there are spendy.

But i must ask, before I drop this idea all together, is a drill and fill an option? I've spent all evening researching and it seems pretty common, especially with BBS RS's, but it all depends on the backplate that goes on the hub. If it is flat, then a fill and drill is possible, if it has a star pattern with dimples then it is still possible but extra steps need to be taken, which can get costly.

 

adapters are basically a thick plate drilled and chamfered to match the lugbolts in the hub. in order to safely allow the plate to be strong enough it needs to be at least 15mm thick and not less than 8mm thick around the hub lugs; that also means the lugnuts must safely fit into cavities in the new wheels. sometimes that isn't possible.
the plate then must have new lugbolts inserted from the hub side that match the bolt circle of the new wheels.
its easy if the hub has 5 x 100 bolt circle and the new wheels are 5 x 4.5 (114.3 mm) because the new lugs and original neatly fit between each other.
whenever the holes of one bolt circle match the bolt holes of another the wheels aren't possible unless the plate is at last 30mm thick, which is definitely not recommended unless you are using wheels with 30mm more offset, repeat more, than the OEM. by example, for a OEM offset of 53 mm on a Fit the new wheels must have an offset of 78 mm and I doubt you'll find one less than 10 inches wide rim and those are way too wide to install proper tires on a Fit.
There are some wheels with 4 x 4 inch and 5 x 4.5 inch bolt circles that will work if you find one with hub bores big enough,the offset is deep enough, and the disc clears the brake calipers.
your best bet is ebay used or new wheels with 4 x 100mm bolt circles that fiut otherwise. and check salvage yards around you; some don't think wheels are a great profit center.
for least cost install 1/4" spacers between the hub and back of the wheels.

expect the cost of adapters to run about $100 per axle. Considering the machining work thats very reasonable.

ps whats a 'drill and fill' ?

 

A drill and fill is where metal slugs are TIG welded into the current lug pattern, then new holes are drilled for the lug pattern needs. It seems popular by the the VW guys as well, who are taking old Porsche wheels and modding them to fit their VWs. I looked up the cost of going this route and it is only about $200 a set if I travel to the bay area.

 

Rather than messing around with adapters and drilling/filling in wheels why not just go 5 lug conversion. That way its done right and more importantly its done safely.

The wheel game is not a cheap one to play, and if you want to go 5x114.3 for better wheel options you are going to have to pay some where, because trying to cut corners will bite you in the end.

Only you can make the decision, but remember safety is more important than form.

 

You are 100% correct Mr. Hollow. You gotta pay to play in the wheel game. And it's better to do it right, or don't do it at all. Thanks for talking me down off the ledge. I've never truly been a wheel whore, but I figured that investing in a set of RS's would be better than buying some china/taiwan wheels in the long run, in terms of durability and resale value.

I'll probably just end up getting a set of Klutch SP1s, they are snazzy looking and can be had with tires for sub 1k.

 

BBS RS has been done way too many times on other cars and has become boring to me, glad you decided to choose a different wheel

 

I had actually paid for a set of those and then cancelled the order when I figured out how much poke I'd have (almost 2 in outside the front fender). My order was for 15x8.5.

AC

 

yikes! I was on the offset calculator today trying to figure it all out, not exactly my strong suit. I'm about to look like Yvette's car in baby boy (obscure reference, I know).


I found a staggered set (meh) of klutch sl1s on craigslist, I would much rather get a square set, but I haven't seen many second 16in hand sets pop up, I'm going to go check them out tomorrow.
Pretty aggressive fitment, 16x8 et15 in the front and 16x9 et20 in the rear. The guy had them on his EP3.

@tfc_ge8charlsea on IG is running this set-up, so I know with a little bit of rolling and pulling it can be done. She should be on FF, but I haven't came across her. I know this look might not be for everyone, but I enjoy it, I have a simlar set-up on my integra.

@tfc_ge8charlsea's ge8:

 

by the photo its the wheels that are modified; not real comfortable with those.

Ah, I think the female lugs on vw and porsches have enough meat in the hub to modify the hub if that were the process; I'm skeptical of the Fit hub doing that, but
it is possible to bolt a 15mm plate to the Fit hub and use male lugbolts aka vw to bolt the wheel to the plate.
A simple round plate drilled and tapped with 12x15 threads in two hole patterns, one 5x4.5" and the other 4 x 100mm with the hole patterns offset TBD degrees would have enough meat to bolt from inside the hub in place of the usual pressed in male studs and use male lugs aka vw to bolt the wheel to the 15mm plate. In both cases the bolts should penetrate the plate by 12 mm, leaving 3mm clearance to assure good torque down. The 12 mm threaded depth is necessary for good bolt required by SAE.
We are machining one to mount on a hub and see what it looks like.
It does mean that the offset will driop from 53 to 38mm at least and thats risky on intererence so a deeper wheel will be needed.
in my case I substituted a 55 mm offset honda 16x6.5 rim wheel and thus ended with final offset of 40 mm which works for the tire used,there are some mazda and other wheels with 60 mm offset that would work better. 60 - 15 is 45 mm offset.
I'd be curious to know where those 4 x 100 conversion to 5 x114,3 BC are; never seen one, someone have a different honda hub that can be substituted?
good luck.

PS the 5x 4.5 threaded holes are centered at 0, 72, 144, 216, and 288 degrees on 2,25" (57.15 mm) radius; the 4 x 100mm holes are centered at 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees on 2 inch radius. the two holes at zero are drilled and tapped halfway thru from opposite sides and the matching male bolts are only 6mm long into 7.5 mm deep holes. I thought that there would be enough offset of the bolt patterns to get all 4 hub bolts equal but 3 of 4 is better than 2 of 4. we'll see what it tests like..
and naturally the thicker the pate the better but that means the new wheels must have more offset to counter. now yu know why 4x100 to 5x114 is so difficult.

 

you have suppliers who offer 4 bolt to 5 bolt conversions 4 x 100 to 5 x 114,3 ? I need to know who they are. they don't show up on ebay.
and they would have to be prohibitively costly.

 

There's the conversion kit here:

FIT 2nd 5LUG CONVERSION KIT USDM SPORT

but you're going to end up spending more than if you just got some 4x100s I think

 

these are the ones I came across on a few websites, they are for VW/audi application. I don't know the ins and outs of how these work, but I did see that they do convert 4x100 to 5x114. $200 for a set of 2!

VW/Audi 4x100-5x114.3 Wheel Adaptor Set