My JDM DISK BRAKE RS Rear Axle conversion
#161
Oh by the way, HondaCivic90ed,
do you happened to know the LENGTH of the parking brake cable for either
the Current Civic Si or the one generation before the current one ?
or perhaps the length of the 4 door civic parking brake cable (again either this generation or the one right before the current one),...
This is because I for sure will need to buy a longer parking brake cable,
since my rear rotor will be 12in in diameter...
But I need to buy either the current generation or the one before the current one (of the Civic model) because the parking brake cable end that connect to the rear caliper for our JDM RS rear caliper is not the same as the OLDER Civic caliper,
and only match either the current one or the one generation before it.
I think I am going to need at least 2 or 3 inch longer parking brake cable,
but not longer than 3 inches...
do you happened to know the LENGTH of the parking brake cable for either
the Current Civic Si or the one generation before the current one ?
or perhaps the length of the 4 door civic parking brake cable (again either this generation or the one right before the current one),...
This is because I for sure will need to buy a longer parking brake cable,
since my rear rotor will be 12in in diameter...
But I need to buy either the current generation or the one before the current one (of the Civic model) because the parking brake cable end that connect to the rear caliper for our JDM RS rear caliper is not the same as the OLDER Civic caliper,
and only match either the current one or the one generation before it.
I think I am going to need at least 2 or 3 inch longer parking brake cable,
but not longer than 3 inches...
#162
I can't help with any measurements for any other makes/models or years for the parking brake cables but looking at your problem of needing longer cables I think you may be on the right path. I recall my rear disc brake swap I did on my 1990 Civic hatch and I had to source 1990-1993 Acura Integra rear parking brake cables because of the added length and obvious difference in the end to the clevis pin/yoke end versus the lead cylinder hook.
If you can't get anything else to work then I think a bit of custom work may get you where you need to be. If you use the factory parking brake cables that came with the rear disc brake axle you may be able to move the mounting inside the car where the cables end back and just drill and tap two holes for the bolts in the floor. Then you would need to get a longer stud for the parking brake handle to connect to the equalizer. I'm not how feasible this is but its just an idea. I still think finding one off another car would be an easier route, you may just have to figure out how to retain them to the car. When you use the cables that came with the rear axle everything goes together so nicely because the hold downs already are placed where they need to be so it essentially looks like the car was bought that way. I'm banking on this fact now that I have a warranty claim pending for the driver side rear shock.
If you can't get anything else to work then I think a bit of custom work may get you where you need to be. If you use the factory parking brake cables that came with the rear disc brake axle you may be able to move the mounting inside the car where the cables end back and just drill and tap two holes for the bolts in the floor. Then you would need to get a longer stud for the parking brake handle to connect to the equalizer. I'm not how feasible this is but its just an idea. I still think finding one off another car would be an easier route, you may just have to figure out how to retain them to the car. When you use the cables that came with the rear axle everything goes together so nicely because the hold downs already are placed where they need to be so it essentially looks like the car was bought that way. I'm banking on this fact now that I have a warranty claim pending for the driver side rear shock.
#163
I can't help with any measurements for any other makes/models or years for the parking brake cables but looking at your problem of needing longer cables I think you may be on the right path. I recall my rear disc brake swap I did on my 1990 Civic hatch and I had to source 1990-1993 Acura Integra rear parking brake cables because of the added length and obvious difference in the end to the clevis pin/yoke end versus the lead cylinder hook.
If you can't get anything else to work then I think a bit of custom work may get you where you need to be. If you use the factory parking brake cables that came with the rear disc brake axle you may be able to move the mounting inside the car where the cables end back and just drill and tap two holes for the bolts in the floor. Then you would need to get a longer stud for the parking brake handle to connect to the equalizer. I'm not how feasible this is but its just an idea. I still think finding one off another car would be an easier route, you may just have to figure out how to retain them to the car. When you use the cables that came with the rear axle everything goes together so nicely because the hold downs already are placed where they need to be so it essentially looks like the car was bought that way. I'm banking on this fact now that I have a warranty claim pending for the driver side rear shock.
If you can't get anything else to work then I think a bit of custom work may get you where you need to be. If you use the factory parking brake cables that came with the rear disc brake axle you may be able to move the mounting inside the car where the cables end back and just drill and tap two holes for the bolts in the floor. Then you would need to get a longer stud for the parking brake handle to connect to the equalizer. I'm not how feasible this is but its just an idea. I still think finding one off another car would be an easier route, you may just have to figure out how to retain them to the car. When you use the cables that came with the rear axle everything goes together so nicely because the hold downs already are placed where they need to be so it essentially looks like the car was bought that way. I'm banking on this fact now that I have a warranty claim pending for the driver side rear shock.
Great Idea about modifying the stock parking brake cable mounting
#164
More Parts arrive:
1. Another Goodridge Bolt, this one the correct length
2. The Goodridge kit for USDM Honda Fit (consist of 4 lines, 2 Front, 2 Rear (between chassis and rear axle):
1. Another Goodridge Bolt, this one the correct length
2. The Goodridge kit for USDM Honda Fit (consist of 4 lines, 2 Front, 2 Rear (between chassis and rear axle):
#165
More news for the search for replacement rotors stateside:
I contacted a company that had an internet listing for Project Mu rear rotors for the GE8 Honda Fit with 16" wheels. The site is www.FRSport.com . The contact I spoke with was John and he said although he has them listed as an item that is available via his website he does not have any in stock. Obviously he wouldn't because there is very little to no demand and he said I was the first to ask him about them. He called Project Mu stateside and they had none of the rear replacement rotors in house either. He said that he could get them but it would be a 12 week lead time because they would be coming direct from Project Mu in Japan. They are reasonably priced at approximately $220 for the pair considering they are slotted as well. The price I was quoted from my contact in the UK was $100/rotor and that is just a standard Honda OEM replacement. I may go with Project Mu all around seeing I can get the fronts without issue as well and they are the same price as the rears from that site. So far the stock equipment is working flawlessly so I'm not in a rush to get replacements however I want to establish the contacts and prices now so I'm not surprised or in a pinch later.
I contacted a company that had an internet listing for Project Mu rear rotors for the GE8 Honda Fit with 16" wheels. The site is www.FRSport.com . The contact I spoke with was John and he said although he has them listed as an item that is available via his website he does not have any in stock. Obviously he wouldn't because there is very little to no demand and he said I was the first to ask him about them. He called Project Mu stateside and they had none of the rear replacement rotors in house either. He said that he could get them but it would be a 12 week lead time because they would be coming direct from Project Mu in Japan. They are reasonably priced at approximately $220 for the pair considering they are slotted as well. The price I was quoted from my contact in the UK was $100/rotor and that is just a standard Honda OEM replacement. I may go with Project Mu all around seeing I can get the fronts without issue as well and they are the same price as the rears from that site. So far the stock equipment is working flawlessly so I'm not in a rush to get replacements however I want to establish the contacts and prices now so I'm not surprised or in a pinch later.
#166
I have free time today, so I decided to start making the Template for my Rear Caliper Bracket.
The original Rear Disk Rotor from Honda were 239mm (9.41in) in diameter,
the new rotor were 12in in diameter.
Another things to note is, the brake pad shape and caliper were not designed for 12in diameter, so there had to be some adjustment using the bracket to make sure the brake pad will swept most of the available disk rotor surface area, and also to make sure the edge of the rotor will not grind to the caliper.
so to make it easier, I tape a plastic rope on the other edge of the rotor,
this will give me around 2mm of space between the caliper and the rotor edge so they will not touch.
Then I use Tie Lock to tie the brake caliper so I can start doing the measurement for the bracket dimension.
At Home Depot, they have a lot of FREE small sheet of hard wood floor sample with varying thickness, so I grab several of them to make the bracket... Hahaha... well I actually also buy some sheet of MDF at Home Depot, but those MDF were not needed, and this Free small sheet of hard wood floor sample is all I need...
start by drilling the two main holes that will connect the bracket to the caliper holes:
Using Dremel tools I cut those hard wood sheet into the bracket shape that I need:
The bracket side that attached to the caliper is done below,
next is to make the bracket side that attached to the rear axle:
Complete bracket done below:
Tomorrow, I am going to find a CNC shop that can make the bracket using the wooden template that I made above
The original Rear Disk Rotor from Honda were 239mm (9.41in) in diameter,
the new rotor were 12in in diameter.
Another things to note is, the brake pad shape and caliper were not designed for 12in diameter, so there had to be some adjustment using the bracket to make sure the brake pad will swept most of the available disk rotor surface area, and also to make sure the edge of the rotor will not grind to the caliper.
so to make it easier, I tape a plastic rope on the other edge of the rotor,
this will give me around 2mm of space between the caliper and the rotor edge so they will not touch.
Then I use Tie Lock to tie the brake caliper so I can start doing the measurement for the bracket dimension.
At Home Depot, they have a lot of FREE small sheet of hard wood floor sample with varying thickness, so I grab several of them to make the bracket... Hahaha... well I actually also buy some sheet of MDF at Home Depot, but those MDF were not needed, and this Free small sheet of hard wood floor sample is all I need...
start by drilling the two main holes that will connect the bracket to the caliper holes:
Using Dremel tools I cut those hard wood sheet into the bracket shape that I need:
The bracket side that attached to the caliper is done below,
next is to make the bracket side that attached to the rear axle:
Complete bracket done below:
Tomorrow, I am going to find a CNC shop that can make the bracket using the wooden template that I made above
#169
My SPOON Rigid Collar for the 2 Rear Axle Bolt
just arrived from Japan today (using Tenso as usual)...
I don't buy the Front kit because I don't think they have any effect for the front subframe since it is metal to metal,
but for the rear axle, I think it do have effect because it involved tightening
the bolt that have rubber bushing on it (some inherent flex movement)...
especially since I am experiencing some movement on the rear axle (little fish tailing effect) whenever I travel through rough grooved freeway surface...
this is due to my tire being too large and grippy...
Also SPOON had warning for using this product that is if we put the gear in D (for AT transmission) while at the same time we press brake pedal,
there might be some slight vibration,
which can only mean it really reduced the flex of the rear rubber bushing,
which is what I am after.
Here are the pictures:
just arrived from Japan today (using Tenso as usual)...
I don't buy the Front kit because I don't think they have any effect for the front subframe since it is metal to metal,
but for the rear axle, I think it do have effect because it involved tightening
the bolt that have rubber bushing on it (some inherent flex movement)...
especially since I am experiencing some movement on the rear axle (little fish tailing effect) whenever I travel through rough grooved freeway surface...
this is due to my tire being too large and grippy...
Also SPOON had warning for using this product that is if we put the gear in D (for AT transmission) while at the same time we press brake pedal,
there might be some slight vibration,
which can only mean it really reduced the flex of the rear rubber bushing,
which is what I am after.
Here are the pictures:
#171
well, I was surfing on rakuten searching for parts for GE,
and then I see a strange looking parts by Spoon called Rigid Collar,
so I dig more into it, and I found some people had talked about this part at fitfreak too...
so that is how I found out about this...
#173
Yes,
I am doing this for an A/T Fit,
I am doing this just for looks
I do NOT race nor have any interest on taking my Fit to the track at all
beside,
Today, the highest performing car in the world prefer A/T transmission compare to M/T,
car like the latest 2014 911 (991) GT3,
or
all AMG, M5 in the rest of the world, Ferrari, Nissan GT-R, Audi RS-7, Lamborghini Aventador, etc etc
I think in 10 years, M/T (the third pedal for clutch) will be gone from most car.
Yeah, our Fit A/T is not world class transmission (compare to cars I mention above),
but then again so does our Fit engine, (slow economical underpowered engine)
even a Fit with M/T is still NOT a fast car anyway,
so that is why in our case,
I personally think it is better to modified my looks,...
and drive slowly,
so other can see how nice your car looks
yes, I am just a POSER hahaha
I am doing this for an A/T Fit,
I am doing this just for looks
I do NOT race nor have any interest on taking my Fit to the track at all
beside,
Today, the highest performing car in the world prefer A/T transmission compare to M/T,
car like the latest 2014 911 (991) GT3,
or
all AMG, M5 in the rest of the world, Ferrari, Nissan GT-R, Audi RS-7, Lamborghini Aventador, etc etc
I think in 10 years, M/T (the third pedal for clutch) will be gone from most car.
Yeah, our Fit A/T is not world class transmission (compare to cars I mention above),
but then again so does our Fit engine, (slow economical underpowered engine)
even a Fit with M/T is still NOT a fast car anyway,
so that is why in our case,
I personally think it is better to modified my looks,...
and drive slowly,
so other can see how nice your car looks
yes, I am just a POSER hahaha
#174
Here you go:
Why the 2014 Porsche 911 GT3 Doesn't Have a Manual Transmission - 2013 Geneva - Motor Trend WOT
Why the 2014 Porsche 911 GT3 Doesn’t Have a Manual Transmission – 2013 Geneva
Mike Febbo March 5, 2013
After one of the fastest press conferences in auto show history, I spoke with Porsche representative Holger Eckhardt about the 2014 GT3. The car was unveiled at VW’s Group Night roughly 14 hours before its official Geneva Motor Show debut, so today’s event was more about showing the GT3 sitting next to the new GT3 Cup Car than an actual unveiling. The comparison between the two cars might answer enthusiasts biggest question about this new car.
Why the 2014 Porsche 911 GT3 Doesn't Have a Manual Transmission - 2013 Geneva - Motor Trend WOT
Why the 2014 Porsche 911 GT3 Doesn’t Have a Manual Transmission – 2013 Geneva
Mike Febbo March 5, 2013
After one of the fastest press conferences in auto show history, I spoke with Porsche representative Holger Eckhardt about the 2014 GT3. The car was unveiled at VW’s Group Night roughly 14 hours before its official Geneva Motor Show debut, so today’s event was more about showing the GT3 sitting next to the new GT3 Cup Car than an actual unveiling. The comparison between the two cars might answer enthusiasts biggest question about this new car.
“As early as the 996 GT3 talks had already begun about why the GT3 was still using a manual gearbox when better, faster technology existed,” Eckhardt said. It has been decades since top-level racecars have used a traditional manual transmission so a PDK does seem like the natural step. Some will argue that the GT3 should be Porsche’s driver’s car, but according to Matthias Muller, Porsche AG’s CEO, the GT3 is the ultimate distillation of Porsche’s DNA, which obviously focuses on GT Racing as much as road cars. The GT3 should be the ultimate transfer of race car to road car. The new GT3 has a 470-hp 3.8-liter flat-six mated to a seven-speed dual-clutch transmission. Acceleration from 0-60 mph is said to take 3.5 seconds, though we expect the car to outperform that estimate in Motor Trend testing. For the full rundown on the 2014 911 GT3, read our First Look here.
According to Eckhardt, the active rear-wheel steering technology is not something that comes from Porsche Racing. The first time we saw the active all-wheel steering was on the 918, although development originally started with the 991 turbo in mind. The technology was so promising that it not only made its way onto the supercar, but onto the GT3 as well. The restrictiveness of racing governing bodies has stopped active rear-wheel steering’s development on competition cars.
Production of the GT3 will begin in June, with U.S. deliveries starting in November. It sounds as though work has already begun on the RS version, with hints being given we might see it one year from now, on the very same stage.
According to Eckhardt, the active rear-wheel steering technology is not something that comes from Porsche Racing. The first time we saw the active all-wheel steering was on the 918, although development originally started with the 991 turbo in mind. The technology was so promising that it not only made its way onto the supercar, but onto the GT3 as well. The restrictiveness of racing governing bodies has stopped active rear-wheel steering’s development on competition cars.
Production of the GT3 will begin in June, with U.S. deliveries starting in November. It sounds as though work has already begun on the RS version, with hints being given we might see it one year from now, on the very same stage.
#175
Yeah yeah I know all about the flappy paddle gearboxes. They can shift WAY faster than a person, it's just funner to drive stick. I just thought at least you were doing this for track performance not just looks. Lot of money and time just so you'll have visible brake discs behind your back wheels as opposed to drums. To each their own though, it will look nice!
But the rigid collars?! Those aren't going to be visible, that's purely a performance upgrade. Why bother if you're just going to drive slow on the streets??
But the rigid collars?! Those aren't going to be visible, that's purely a performance upgrade. Why bother if you're just going to drive slow on the streets??
#176
^^ In all honesty it's a "FIT"! Anything we do to these cars is kind of pointless. We won't make any power with any of the mods, it's a slow car regardless lol!
I bought my fit for a commuter car already knowing not to expect anything more, but out of all the cars I've ever owned and currently own this little thing has me in love. I've done just about all the bolt on mods I can do and I'm constantly searching around to see what else is new or possible.
Why spend money on any mods for this car? Because I love the car and doing mods to it just seems to give it a more cool factor IMHO. Then again, it's just a "FIT".
I bought my fit for a commuter car already knowing not to expect anything more, but out of all the cars I've ever owned and currently own this little thing has me in love. I've done just about all the bolt on mods I can do and I'm constantly searching around to see what else is new or possible.
Why spend money on any mods for this car? Because I love the car and doing mods to it just seems to give it a more cool factor IMHO. Then again, it's just a "FIT".
#177
I will say this, in my opinion a true sports car has to be manual transmission. The 1 reason I didn't get my R35 is because it's not offered in manual trans. There's nothing better then smashing on the gas pedal and feeling he raw power of the car as you're banging through the gears.
I've driven cars that have a sequential gear box and they're fun depending on the car, but it doesn't compare to a manual trans.
Even now Infiniti has done away with the manual trans on the new G sedan or as they call it now the "Q" sedan (dumbest thing ever). I love the Infiniti brand, but for a company that claims "Inspired Performance" makes me think twice now. We'll see what the new G coupe comes out with.
Again, the "FIT" is not a sports car by any means, but I LOVE this car and I love adding mods to it as a cool factor. Keep up the good work BMW Alpina you're a real enthusiast exploring new boundaries some of us haven't yet, you're a true pioneer. I appreciate your contributions to this forum.
I've driven cars that have a sequential gear box and they're fun depending on the car, but it doesn't compare to a manual trans.
Even now Infiniti has done away with the manual trans on the new G sedan or as they call it now the "Q" sedan (dumbest thing ever). I love the Infiniti brand, but for a company that claims "Inspired Performance" makes me think twice now. We'll see what the new G coupe comes out with.
Again, the "FIT" is not a sports car by any means, but I LOVE this car and I love adding mods to it as a cool factor. Keep up the good work BMW Alpina you're a real enthusiast exploring new boundaries some of us haven't yet, you're a true pioneer. I appreciate your contributions to this forum.
Last edited by 1SickVeilsideZ; 08-07-2013 at 05:38 PM.