Based on Japanese Rear Axle available combination,
every rear axle with Disk Brake would surely have Factory Rear Sway Bar.
so I don't think there is any rear axle out there that have disk brake but do not have factory sway bar

Drum brake rear axle can be had with or without sway bar,
but if Drum brake equipped car had VSA, then it would have rear sway bar. (at least that is what happen in Japan).

After you install Bilstein, then ask yourself if you still want less body roll or not,
if you want less body roll then the Spoon front sway bar will be the best modification,
but if you feel the Bilstein already help you enough to reduce sway then no sway bar needed...

 

I was suppose to post this yesterday on this thread,
but somehow I post on linnboy classified thread
I mistakenly though his thread as this theard

Progress Sway Bar Installation Completed

I decide to take out the Spring by taking out the bolt that holding the lower mount of the rear shocks,
because it would took more time and harder effort to use screwdriver to push the lower rubber mount
on the right (passenger) side.





This is how it look on the right / passenger side after I manage to install the sway bar bolt and
put the rubber lower spring mount back on top of it.




now, the driver side had lot's of clearance so no need to take out the spring.
















again Right side after I install back the spring.






Oh, I torque the sway bolt to 42ft-lb as per Progress instruction,
while the rear shock lower bolt, I tighten it up to 54nm per Honda Factory recommendation,
and I also add loctite since according to Honda, I should not use this bolt again but replace it with a new one.
still, I think they would be fine because I check the left bolt and they still tight after several hundred miles
since I install my Bilstein. Yes the Left bolt also came from factory original suspension and I have not
replace them when I replace my Bilstein.
But if in the future, if I happen to buy some stuff from dealer,
I would buy all this bolt together and replace them just to be sure...

 

@BMW

wondering if you could just move the rubber (passenger side) by turning it? i installed a DIY RSB recently and at first, the rubber was really in the way on where the bolts should be placed and im not a fan on where the spring and rubber actually sits on the bolt. We then just turned the rubber by turning the springs (on coil overs also) and it did stay on its place and no more rubber on the holes so it is already clear.

My question would be, are there any possible i might encounter because of what i did?

Car ran really good after installing the RSB and already went on an open track day.

What do you think? Thanks!

 

Hello,
The Rubber under the spring have some kind of "knob" that insert into a hole on the steel plate below it. If you turn the rubber, you might had just cut that rubber knob. This rubber knob function so the rubber won't move/turn.
Again that rubber had to be oriented in one direction and that rubber knob is the only thing that making sure your rubber oriented correctly.

 

Thanks for the fast reply. So would that mean that there is a chance that the spring will move? even under load?

Also i'm not sure if my logic is correct that when RSB is installed, when one side is compressed, the other side also compresses since the middle point of the RSB isn't attached to the chassis right? So even on bumps, the rubber/springs should still be in place? meeeh sorry for the long a$$ question. haha!

Or is it just there as an additional "security" that it won't move?

Thanks again!

 

well, probably it will not move under load,
but at least those knob on the rubber would make the rubber (and spring) right at the center position or at the position that Honda designed them to be,
again it might not effect you, but I am just a "follow the book" kinda of guy, so I don't cut corner when I installing things, especially critical things like suspension.
for me, If I am already committed to install the Rear Sway Bar by myself then I will do everything as told by the instruction.

(I even torque all the bolt back to factory spec and even add loctite)

but then again, my method might took about 15 minutes longer than your method

 

haha true! o well, might just adjust it again once i got an ss allen bolt for the DIY RSB

how about the rubber and the spring on top of the bolt? does it affect anything at all?

 

Well, the spring is NOT on top of the bolt because there is still space between where the spring is and the bolt is,
but the rubber does stay on top of the bolt, but since that part of the rubber also do not located under the spring,
plus the bolt itself is pretty thin so the bend on the rubber is not that much,
then it is ok

check the picture I had, you can see what I mean there
have fun with your modification

 

I had been ordering all the parts needed for the Rear Disk Brake Rotor UPGRADE to larger rotor.

The first parts to arrive today are
the pair of Goodridge Universal 11inches long Rear Brake Line.
This will connect between the rear axle hard line to the rear disk caliper.

I need this because the standard rubber brake line that came with my JDM RS rear axle would not be long enough after I upgrade the rear rotor.
The Rear stock rotor were just 9.41in in diameter, while my Custom Made Rotor by Coleman Racing were 12in in diameter,
so the distance between the center of the rotor (radius) will be go up from around 4.705in to 6in (a different about 1.295in).

since the shortest universal goodridge brake line is 11in and I don't want to spent money or time to buy blank brake line, blank banjo and do it my self tools to make a brake line, so I decide to "compromise" a bit by buying this ready made 11in universal brake line from Goodridge.
It will be a tad longer than I need, but that's ok... who knows,
I might upgrade to 14in rear rotor later hahaha (no just kidding, 12in rear rotor is already big enough).

The Subaru BR-Z brembo kit had 14in rotor front and 12.4in rotor rear,
but I choose to order just 12in rotor diameter because if someday I want to buy 12in cross drilled Wilwood rotor, then I don't need to adjust the caliper bracket anymore... so 12in it is

This Goodridge universal line came with STAINLESS STEEL Fitting on each.
later
I will buy the regular USDM Fit Goodridge kit which will include 4 brake line, 2 front and 2 from rear chassis to rear axle brake hard line.

initially, I want to buy Mugen 6 piece JDM brake line kit,
but then I can NOT use the Mugen to connect the rear axle hard line to the rear caliper since it was meant for stock rotor,
If I buy mugen 6 piece kit (which won't fit anyway),
I will spent at least close to $400 include shipping and Tenso cost from Japan !

so another way to save money for me

at the picture below I compare the Goodridge Universal 11in line with the stock rubber line.

I will update again as soon as more parts arrive later this week

 

Now, to connect the Goodridge Universal Brake Line to Rear Caliper,
we need this Banjo and Banjo Bolt (with copper crush washer):




and the connection will look like :






I also had bought a solid brake line pipe to modify my Master Cylinder,
but since not all fitting are here, I will post it later so it will not be confusing.

In the meantime,

I want to show you this:



It is a Plastic Ventilation which I will put into the CR-Z/Insight Under Engine Panel Cover.
Remember the CR-Z/Insight Under Engine Panel Cover do NOT have any ventilation,
while the Beatrush model have,
so basically, I am going to cut a hole at the CR-Z/Insight engine panel cover and used Epoxy glue to glue the ventilation hole above to the CR-Z/Insight engine panel cover.
This mean I will have a VENTILATED CR-Z/Insight engine panel cover

Ok, to make it easy,
here are the pictures of the CR-Z/Insight engine panel cover installed by other fitfreak member:



and here are the beatrush under engine panel cover:



now, I still need to buy the CR-Z/Insight under engine panel cover later,
I plan to buy this when I had to buy all the tools needed to over haul the real caliper and many bolts needed for my JDM RS rear axle install,
so stay tuned

oh, by the way,
later tonight, UPS will deliver my Custom Coleman Racing 12in Rear Disk Brake (Cast Iron) with Brembo Type 3 slotted design.
I will post the picture of that later tonight

 

ups forgot to add, that the Goodridge Banjo BOLT that I bought above were the short one for Brembo caliper, and turn out our Nissin caliper need (or can use) the longer one,
so I am going to order the longer Goodridge Banjo Bolt (Stainless Steel) later.

The Correct (long bolt) part number are :
992-03-31C

the one that I bought are

992-03-31SC (S for short)

 

Rear Custom Disk Brake had arrived,
I also order DOUBLE Heat Treatment (Stress Relieve) for this Disk Brake.
First Heat Treatment Before Slotting (Gas Vent),
and another Heat Treatment after that.

Later I want to do a Zinc or perhaps Cadmium Coating for this disk brake rotor before I install it on the car,
so the part that do not get swept by the brake pad will remain rust free.

Ok here are the pictures of the disk brake itself, and after mounted on the Wilwood Hat and later mounted on the rear axle it self

















Comparing it's thickness with factory standard rotor:



































Last 3 Picture comparing the diameter of the new 12in rotor against the stock 9.4in rotor:

 

Oh, notice that I had chosen the correct OFFSET for the HAT,
so the new rotor install without having to CUT or REMOVE the Original Factory BACKING PLATE !

 

Nice report as usual. That thing is going to stop on a dime.

 

Well I finally arranged enough free time and the weather cooperated long enough for me to swap in the RS rear axle with disc brakes. The humidity made the job a little more tedious but overall it went very well. The only real time consuming problem I encountered was attempting to get the driver side parking brake cable grommet to be seated in its hole. The passenger side can be accessed via the bottom of the car but the driver side is hidden by the gas tank neck that connects to the long filler neck. All attempts to drop parts from the bottom of the car didn't allow enough room to push the grommet up so I ended up going from the top to pull it through. They come into the car about 8 in behind the center console so I had to pull the driver seat and some trim parts on the rear driver seat area to get enough clearance to pull the grommet through.

As far as raising the rear axle to the car, I used three floor jacks that I had. One on each lower spring perch and a third in the center to counter the action of the rear axle to roll off of each jack on the ends. Raising them each a little at a time and then moving them on their wheels to center the axle on the car, I was able to put the axle up by myself. This is not to be taken lightly however as the item is very heavy and awkward to maneuver into place without the aid of the floor jacks.

After bleeding the brakes I took it for a test drive and everything feels very good, definitely a better feel to the pedal and more bite in the brakes overall.

 

I'd love to have some rear discs!

 

Just a couple of shots of it installed.

[IMG]https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/[/IMG]


[IMG]https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/[/IMG]

On another note while I was installing the rear axle I noticed my driver side rear shock was leaking oil. With it only being a 2011 with 35000 miles on it I'm sure it should still be covered under warranty.

 

Congratulations,
I think you are the first one who drive a USDM Fit Sport with JDM RS Rear Axle (with disk brake)
(at least to my knowledge)

also thanks for the guidance (DIY), I think it will help me a lot.

I am also glad that every parts of that JDM rear axle works fine ,...
hopefully I can install mine soon (like few months from now hahaha)

 

Another quick note BMW ALPINA, when you go to do the swap of the rear axle yourself you can utilize the bleeder caps that came with the calipers to temporarily cap off the open brake lines before you make the connection to the new rear axle. When you crack lines open on the stock brake lines, the fluid will continuously drip out making a mess everywhere. The bleeder caps held the lines from dripping so that I could take my time getting the new rear axle in position. Then I just popped them off and quickly threaded them into the lines that came with the new axle and then just cleaned them off with brakleen and put them back on the bleeders.

On the access to the grommet for the driver side emergency brake cable: I had to pop off the trim covers for the driver front seat and removed all 4 bolts but I didn't actually take the seat out of the car I just moved it forward so that the carpet could be pulled up a bit. There is a loop of carpet that is contained by one of the trunk D-ring hold down hooks so I removed that and two plastic push clips under the rear passenger seat. I also took off the b-pillar trim near the front driver side seatbelt retractor and the threshold trim on the rear driver side door so that I could put the carpet back to where it needed to be when I was done pulling it out to get to where the cables and grommets come through the car. I tried to do it from the front and reach in through the hole where the carpet ends in the center console but there is a bunch of padding that wouldn't allow my fat hands to fit in there let alone any tool to help pull the grommet up. If you have any questions when the time comes to do yours just shoot me a message or text/call me.

 

Wow, Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction,
I really appreciate this...
hmmm...
this mean I better NOT do the sound deadening of the entire area under the front and rear seat before I install the JDM RS rear axle,...
so I don't have to take out those plastic trim twice,
plus the sound deadening might be in the way also...
Ok, Thanks again Sir