Hi MeatBaby,
believe it or not, but at one point in my life, I was so ANTI Automatic Transmission just like you
I only want to buy Manual Transmission,
but as you grew older and you have business/work and kids,
and with the traffic jam getting worse and worse everyday,
my priority change. With AT I can spent less time thinking or doing shifting and much more relaxed for my body
I know how you feel, I used to heel and toe everyday (and in a MUCH MUCH MUCH x 10 better car than my current cheap Honda Fit)...
Still, as you know time move on, and let's face it the Market dictate
what car maker produce, and sooner or later, MT will be a thing of the past,
especially if a Double Clutch Automated Transmission became cheaper an available for cheap car...
of course I (and you) were lucky that we both had enjoyed the delight of shifting ourselves, (and double clutching all the way)
anyway, for my current purpose and for a daily driven car like this Honda Fit, AT is more suitable for me now
but at the same time, my hobby of modifying my car will not be stop just because it is an AT car hehehe

now for the rigid collar, well I have a reason for that,
my wheel is 18in, and my tire is 225/40ZR18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport.
I think my tire is too wide and too grippy for the stock rear axle bushing,
because each time I pass a freeway that had groove,
the back of my car began to move a little (like fish tailing)...
it is not dangerous at all once I get used to it, but nevertheless, it is distracting... so I am hoping this rigid collar will solve the problem once and for all. well, actually after I put the Bilstein and Progress rear sway bar,
the rear axle had been tightened a lot but it still move a little,
so this rigid collar is my last attempt to fix that problem.
Also remember, I need to take out that bolt holding the rear axle once
I change this rear axle to the JDM RS rear axle, so I am going to used that opportunity to install this rigid collar
(and this rigid collar is only less than $100 including shipping from Japan, so it is a cheap modification, I hope it's work though hahaha)...

Hi Veilside,
there is one time (long time ago) that when I hear the word "veilside", all I can think of is the wicked crazy Supra by veilside
anyway, long time ago, I never imagined that I would be driving a Honda,
and I think I am going crazy, but like you, I really fall in love with this Honda Fit !!! I don't like other Honda model, the only model that I like (the design wise) is this Honda Fit.
Before I would not buy a car that is Front Wheel Drive, I only like Rear Wheel Drive or All Wheel Drive, but this Honda Fit design is just so nice to my eyes, that I am willing to buy this car and going to modify it the way I think it would nice
funny huh, that we both can fall in love to this cheap, small, slow Honda Fit,...



Thank You for your kind words Sir,
You are also a pioneer too because soon you will have the Sprintex Supercharger installed in your car (and that is Pioneer too )
plus you are going to have the JDM RS front bumper too,
and again that is the first in US for the "facelifted RS specific" model front bumper,
plus you going to install full Mugen RS body kit,... well that say it all !
You are PIONEER too !

 

x100


As for MT-AT, I'm older too, but as long as I can drive MT, and it's offered that will be my preference. Even with the traffic, and the improvements in AT (dual clutch, etc) I'd still rather drive (and mod) my MT Fit...

I waited 4+ months (from the day I put the deposit down) to get my 09 Sport Navi w/MT, when I could've taken home either of my 2 favorite colored Navi AT GE8's the same day.

 

Small cars like the Fit I like manual transmissions larger cars I like an automatic transmission that is my personal preference. Everybody is different so I cannot see pushing my personal preferences on them.

As to the rear brake upgrade I was looking at some of the big brake rear kits offer on the Jazz overseas to see if they sell the adapter bracket for the upgrade kit when using OEM calipers no luck. Figure this may save you time on having one machined.

Keep up the work I like seeing what modifications people do to their cars to give me some ideas in the future on what direction I might go.

 

I just received the shipment for Bolts and Nuts that I bought from
BoltDepot.com

All the Bolt that I bought were
Metric Socket Cap with Class 12.9 Grade Steel Material.
The Type is M10 (10mm) with 1.25mm pitch.
The length vary from 40mm to 60mm.

All the Nut that I bought were Metric Hex Nut, Zinc Plated Class 10.9 Grade Steel Material and of course type M10 (10mm) with 1.25mm pitch too.
Of the Nut is a Lock Nuts with NYLON Insert !

I also buy Washer and Collar Lock Washer again made from Class 10.9 Grade Steel !

Take note that I choose the SOCKET CAP type of Bolt instead of the ordinary Hex Head Bolt because I think the SOCKET CAP bolt looks better and also slimmer in profile which is important in this application since a hex type one would have spacing problem, in fact, I still need to modify the parking brake cable bracket in order to clear the bolts...

After getting all this nuts and bolts, I finally able to Test Fit my WOODEN Caliper Bracket (Template) hahaha...

and turn out, it almost perfect, just need some adjustment in the distance
between the caliper toward the center of the axle (about 3mm adjustment), I plan to adjust this tomorrow during daylight, too dark to do it in the evening...

but I just want to let people know that if you really want to replace your drum brake with disk brake and decide to make bracket your self,
and get the Civic Si rear brake, it is NOT hard to make the bracket yourself.
Just copy my way of using wooden template first,
later you can measure all the dimension and order a machine shop to CNC the bracket for you

again the key is to make the wooden bracket as a template first so you can actually mount the caliper onto the disk brake, then measure it correctly/precisely.

Ok here are the pictures of the bolts, and my caliper mounted to my rear disk rotor using my wooden bracket and bolted with the bolt that I just received today

 

I read this letter last week,
and I had put ATE Blue Brake Fluid in my Amazon wish list to buy,
so I checked, and turn out, Amazon no longer sell this ATE Blue !!!

I am so piss off, so I try to find other place that still sell this brake fluid
and buy 2 bottle right away before this is completely gone...

so today, I just received it

by the way, on the bottle (can) it is printed that this is not street legal so perhaps, they still can sell it but only for "racing use"...

the reason are stupid, only because it have BLUE color,
so Federal Government worried that we might mistaken it as windshield water hahaha...
I mean, come on, people should be able to read the label on the can...

but doesn't matter for now, I already secure my stock of ATE Blue hahaha

 

Ok I'm lost. Why do you care about buying racing brake fluid if your car is not going to be driven hard? You said all these changes are cosmetic and have no intention of racing??? So confused. Why would you go to the trouble of getting this special brake fluid?

 

Ok, First this Racing Brake Fluid happened to be VERY CHEAP,
and since it is a DOT4, it is also good for Daily Street Use even on Stock Brake System.
This ATE Blue only cost me $33 per 1 LITER of can already include shipping.
so for just $33 only, why not buy a better one ?
again this is just a DOT4 brake fluid which happened to be specially formulated so it have higher boiling point compare to your run of the mill regular DOT4.

Second, this ATE Blue is BLUE in color,
so when I flush my factory Honda brake fluid, I will know that I had flush the entire system when the brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve is BLUE... well, this is the main reason why I just have to buy ATE BLUE, to make my life easier when I am bleeding the brake.

Third, with a higher quality brake fluid, most likely it is also less hygroscopic, which mean it will absorb moisture less compare to regular brake fluid, so this mean, longer time before I need to flush them.

actually with all the brake upgrade (and their cost) that I am going to put on this car,
I am being CHEAP on buying this ATE Blue,
I should buy the Motul RBF 660 Factory which is about 2 times the price of this ATE Blue, which also mean it is still kinda affordable...
so yeah,
by buying this ATE Blue,
I actually kinda "cut corner" by being cheap on the brake fluid hahaha

 

just to let other who might not know about this...

The ATE BLUE that I bought have the equivalent (basically same fluid formulation),
which is ATE TYP 200.
The different is ATE TYP200 is NOT blue in color,
and that is why on their Can TYP200 can be sold for street car...

due to the federal regulation ATE Blue can NOT be sold for street car,
not because of the chemical formulation,
but simply because it had blue dye on it...

again basically ATE Blue and the equivalent ATE typ 200 is a brake fluid
that is so good that it can both be used on the street and on the track.

many people (including people who posted regularly on this forum) already know
the trick of using ATE Blue and then when they need to flush they use ATE typ 200,
and then next time back to ATE blue,
this way, they know that they had replace most of the brake fluid since the brake fluid change color ,
so yeah, after I use ATE blue, next time I need to flush my brake fluid,
I will use the ATE typ 200 (which is sold purely as street brake fluid).

here are the picture of ATE typ 200 which is priced similar to ATE Blue,
but do not have any word "racing" on it's can, but had the same spec as ATE Blue minus the blue color:

 

I have 1L of ATE Blue for sale if you would like to purchase it!

 

Hello,
thanks for the offer, but at this moment I had enough supply
since I just bought 2 liter of this ATE Blue.
but in the future, I might need to retrofit my head light,
and I will contact you
Thanks again BlueBoggers

 

how much shipp boogers

i got like 5 bottles would not mind more since i change mines out every year lol

 

Hi Guys,

I tried to post at Classified section, but now fitfreak.net forces us to post at the Panjo Marketplace things...
I worry that most people don't go there much...
so
anyway...

I am going to post it here again:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...-stop-kit.html

I want to sell my Brand New Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kit, (part# 20114).

I had never used this, and I now change plan and want to buy the Mugen Brake Line Kit instead,
so this kit is for sale.

It came with all the bolt and hardware required for the installation, the sticker and the original boxes !

I will sell it for $128 ALREADY include shipping cost to you.

if interested, please PM me at fitfreak.net
my ID is BMW Alpina

Thank You.

List Date: 8/29/2013

For more info, click here to view the original listing: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...-stop-kit.html
--------------------------------------
On Sale For: $125 + $0 Shipping









SOLD SOLD SOLD to My Good Friend in NY

 

Just make a Good Deal with my Good Friend from NY

He bought my Goodridge (US 4 lines version),
I will order the Mugen Micro Mesh Fit RS brake line (JDM Fit RS 6 lines version),
later when the Mugen arrived,
I will keep the 4 lines (front and middle)
and send the 2 rear most Mugen lines to my friend together with my US Goodridge

(I can not use the 2 most rear lines from Mugen cause I need custom longer rear lines for my larger rotor).

This way, I can have as much JDM parts as possible for this conversion

Fitfreak.net is a Good Forum that allow me and my friend to collaborate on this project

Now, I also have other thing to sell,
I want to sell my STOCK REAR JDM Fit RS Disk Brake (ROTOR)
and Stock JDM Fit RS Rear Brake Pads,
both are in Brand New Condition (little rust but they are brand new with 0 miles)
oh the Disk Brake (ROTOR) center part (hub) had been cleaned from rust and painted silver with high temp silver paint so they look really nice, the only rust is on the friction ring surface which will be clear from rust as soon as you use it anyway.
The brake pads well, of course no rust on it and had been cleaned thoroughly...

I am selling the Rotor and stock Brake Pads since I already have the larger custom rotor and plan to buy different brake pads

if anybody interested, please PM me

 

Haven't read your entire saga on your swap. From the looks of things having larger rotors wont accomplish a thing without matching calipers.

 

Hello mkane,

here is what I want to and will surely accomplish with my larger rear rotor.

First and foremost,
I will have a much Better Looking 12in Slotted similar to Brembo Type 3 Rear Rotor that fill up my 18in wheel which suit my taste, because my main reason is for looks

Just look at that, ain't she GORGEOUS ?


I plan to put a 14in Brembo 6 piston front brake kit from Subaru BR-Z which will have a Brembo Type 3 rotor,
this mean I will have a MATCHING front and rear rotor
so from the looks point of view alone this 12in rotor already satisfy my needs and make the cost worth it for me

Second, weight penalty is not bad
Plus this custom rear rotor is a real 2 piece design utilizing Wilwood center aluminum hat,
which make the weight different between the small 9.4in stock RS rotor vs my custom 12in only 1 pounds heavier !!!
beside a slightly heavier rotor mean more mass to absorb the heat

Third,
From the heat capacity point of view it is also already better than the stock rotor (with that extra 1lbs of mass),
plus
the larger rotor area would allow for much more rapid heat release, so the 1lbs weight penalty is nothing, and less chance for brake fade, not that I will drive that hard anyway

Forth, why I keep the OEM JDM Fit RS stock caliper ?
The current stock caliper that I had, had 99% of their brake swept pad area cover (on top of) this 12in rotor,
there might be a 1mm area at the highest part of the brake pad that is outside the rotor outer most perimeter, but that is it,
and I will grind the brake pads so it will not have that problem any more.

I understand that you said a matching caliper is better,
well,
perhaps I forgot to wrote it here,
but the rear disk brake rotor of JDM Honda Fit RS is a SOLID rotor design (only 9mm initial thickness) and it is NOT vented,
that mean if I want to put a larger caliper,
most likely I had to buy rotor that is ventilated which mean it will be MUCH HEAVIER (since it would be double the thickness).

If I buy a larger rear caliper (that is aftermarket), it might not have the ability to combined the integrated parking brake function easily without
further upgrades/parts.

My 12in rear rotor will have more braking power (torque leverage) due to the farther position of the brake caliper from the center of the hub.
That alone would surely increase the braking power from the stock JDM RS disk brake, and for sure much more than USDM standard drum brakes.

If you recall, the Fast Brake Rear Disk Kit for Honda Fit (with only 11in rotor)
2007-2011 Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion
is already considered too much for the stock front disk brake in our USDM Honda Fit.
and that Fast Brake Rear Disk Kit utilize similarly size caliper from Honda (most likely from Honda Civic rear caliper).

With a Front Engine High Center of Gravity car like our Fit,
I really don't want too much braking power at the rear which would make the rear easy to lock up.
In fact, I might not be able to install this 12in rear disk until after I install the front 14in Brembo Kit.

so even if there is a larger rear caliper from Honda OEM parts that still utilize solid rear disk,
(which I doubt there is, because I don't think there is any larger rear caliper that work on 9mm THIN solid rear rotor),
I still do not want to use it, because as I had explain above,
my 12in rear disk upgrade will be more powerful than
a. stock USDM rear drum brake
b. 9.4in JDM RS disk brake
c. 11in Fastbrake rear disk conversion kit
and more than that, it might became too powerful for our Honda Fit.

IF and ONLY IF after I install my 14in Brembo front brake kit,
I still feel I need more braking power to the rear,
I can always install higher performance brake pad to compensate further.

I also had done some rough comparison with the Brembo 4 piston rear brake kit for Subaru BR-Z
and keeping in mind that Subaru BR-Z is a rear wheel drive car with much better front and rear weight distribution
and much lower center of gravity,
and I came to the conclusion that my 12in rear rotor with stock JDM RS rear caliper,
should be more than enough to balance the upcoming Front Brembo 6 piston caliper with 14 in rotor that I plan to install.

 

Ok,
here is Subaru BR-Z rear brembo kit

They have 2 kits available,
the cheaper kits is :
Equipped with Rear Rotor size 316x20mm with 2 Piston Caliper
which mean it is 12.4 in in diameter and it is vented design (hence a 20mm width/thickness).
it does came with a 2 piston caliper design which
I am sure have larger brake pad swept area compare to my stock JDM RS rear caliper.

but as you notice this kit rotor is only 0.4in larger in diameter compare to my 12in rotor.
Plus that 2 piston caliper of Brembo is the tiny (if not the most tiniest) caliper for car application from Brembo.
it looks similar to this STi stock rear Brembo caliper:


so it is not that much bigger anyway...
and this is already considered an UPGRADE from Subaru BR-Z stock rear disk brake,
a car that have much lower center of gravity,
a rear wheel drive car (with rear axle to balance the weight better) which mean
better weight distribution.

so I am confident that my choice of 12in rotor combined with stock JDM FIT RS rear caliper will be a good match (brake bias) with the upcoming Brembo 6 piston 14in caliper Subaru BR-Z kit that I plan to install on my car.

Brembo do have a larger rear disk kit (and more expensive) for Subaru BR-Z though
it came with 345mm (13.6in) Rear Rotor w/ 4 Piston Fixed Caliper,
that Brembo also a match to their 14in front 6 piston kit,
so I think the ideal range for Subaru BR-Z in order for their brake bias
to match is from that smaller 12.4in kit to this larger 13.6in kit.

and as I had said before, I could have a larger caliper but that mean
I also had to upgrade to double the thickness VENTILATED rotor which mean it will be heavier,
and it might also upset the brake bias balance too far to the rear and will end up making my car unstable.

 

oh one more thing,

most Honda OEM caliper that is larger than my JDM Fit RS rear caliper is most likely a FRONT brake caliper,
which mean it's piston size is way larger (and give much more clamping power),
that is why I can NOT use this kind of caliper too (not to mention the need for ventilated rotor) because
the larger piston size will really interfere with the brake bias and will severely
increase the hydraulic pressure.
Ideally the front caliper should have much larger piston than the rear,
this to allow the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to be distributed much more toward the front than towards the rear caliper.

Those 6piston Brembo had tiny piston so when all the 6 piston combined their area is actually not that much larger then our current front caliper.

oh, another info, my current JDM Fit RS rear caliper had the same exact SEAL kit as the Civic Si rear caliper,
which mean their piston is exactly the same, and don't forget the Civic Si is again a much lower car with better center of gravity,
and I think had slightly better weight distribution than our Honda Fit.

 

Whatever floats your boat.

 

Totally AGREE with You on Your Statement above

It is MY HARD EARNED money,
as long as it satisfy my needs and requirements,
and Most Importantly, As Long As It Make Me HAPPY

I love AMERICA, It is a FREE COUNTRY !

and based from your reply,
My guess is that I had satisfy your TECHNICAL Curiosity
why larger caliper is NOT always necessary especially for our Honda Fit Rear Disk Brake application

 

Let's not get to tech, disc's in the rear are not necessary. It would look a hell of a lot nicer with matching calipers, some with pads that matched the swept area of the rotors. And like you stated above, it's my hard earned $$$.