Mugen Suspension Test Fit
#21
THREAD RESURECTION!!!!
found these, and there is a part num. for a GE6/GE8 Fit. Anybody know if this is legit? I know the GD3 will fit the GE8 but this has a p/n specifically for the GE chassis.
MUGEN Sports Suspension Fit
found these, and there is a part num. for a GE6/GE8 Fit. Anybody know if this is legit? I know the GD3 will fit the GE8 but this has a p/n specifically for the GE chassis.
MUGEN Sports Suspension Fit
#23
I have a friend in the Evo world and adjustable coilovers are actually frowned upon. Usually a tuned set of KWs or a pair of springs and MR bilsteins are more desireable for suspension improvements.
Grassroots motorsports did a great article on how you can screw up your handling by fiddling with "adjustability". I'd rather trust the chaps at Mugen to determine the ideal spring/damper combo.
#25
Agreed, but you're missing a few important points.
The GRM article said that you should leave fine tune adjustments to someone who has the proper equipment and knowledge. If you give your car to garage that tunes race suspensions, they can tell you exactly the spring, dampening, and rebound rates you need to match the rest of your suspension. Corner weighting is all part of this.
Mugen shocks are not rebuildable, keep this in mind as well.
Those japanese shocks and springs are designed for japanese trim cars, the US versions are heavier, bigger, and don't have the same weight distribution. Negating the "designed for this car" argument. Just compare a picture of toucan-sam to the USDM GE8, .
Yes, Normally I'd advocate buying a setup that is designed for the car by someone smarter than me, but in this case, it's moot, because the USDM fit isn't really a performance car.
If I had it to do over again, I'd find the ideal spring rates for the type of racing I want to do, then calculate the dampening rates. I'd reverse engineer some custom dampened Koni inserts into the stock shocks, and get some coilover springs. I'd then take it to a decent race shop and have them corner weight the car in race trim with me in it. That's the process GRM was advocating, it's also the right way to go about it. Unfortunately it is immensely more time-consuming and marginally more expensive than a boxed up and ready to go "suspension package."
That's the route I'd take.
The GRM article said that you should leave fine tune adjustments to someone who has the proper equipment and knowledge. If you give your car to garage that tunes race suspensions, they can tell you exactly the spring, dampening, and rebound rates you need to match the rest of your suspension. Corner weighting is all part of this.
Mugen shocks are not rebuildable, keep this in mind as well.
Those japanese shocks and springs are designed for japanese trim cars, the US versions are heavier, bigger, and don't have the same weight distribution. Negating the "designed for this car" argument. Just compare a picture of toucan-sam to the USDM GE8, .
Yes, Normally I'd advocate buying a setup that is designed for the car by someone smarter than me, but in this case, it's moot, because the USDM fit isn't really a performance car.
If I had it to do over again, I'd find the ideal spring rates for the type of racing I want to do, then calculate the dampening rates. I'd reverse engineer some custom dampened Koni inserts into the stock shocks, and get some coilover springs. I'd then take it to a decent race shop and have them corner weight the car in race trim with me in it. That's the process GRM was advocating, it's also the right way to go about it. Unfortunately it is immensely more time-consuming and marginally more expensive than a boxed up and ready to go "suspension package."
That's the route I'd take.
#26
Agreed, but you're missing a few important points.
The GRM article said that you should leave fine tune adjustments to someone who has the proper equipment and knowledge. If you give your car to garage that tunes race suspensions, they can tell you exactly the spring, dampening, and rebound rates you need to match the rest of your suspension. Corner weighting is all part of this.
Mugen shocks are not rebuildable, keep this in mind as well.
Those japanese shocks and springs are designed for japanese trim cars, the US versions are heavier, bigger, and don't have the same weight distribution. Negating the "designed for this car" argument. Just compare a picture of toucan-sam to the USDM GE8, .
Yes, Normally I'd advocate buying a setup that is designed for the car by someone smarter than me, but in this case, it's moot, because the USDM fit isn't really a performance car.
If I had it to do over again, I'd find the ideal spring rates for the type of racing I want to do, then calculate the dampening rates. I'd reverse engineer some custom dampened Koni inserts into the stock shocks, and get some coilover springs. I'd then take it to a decent race shop and have them corner weight the car in race trim with me in it. That's the process GRM was advocating, it's also the right way to go about it. Unfortunately it is immensely more time-consuming and marginally more expensive than a boxed up and ready to go "suspension package."
That's the route I'd take.
The GRM article said that you should leave fine tune adjustments to someone who has the proper equipment and knowledge. If you give your car to garage that tunes race suspensions, they can tell you exactly the spring, dampening, and rebound rates you need to match the rest of your suspension. Corner weighting is all part of this.
Mugen shocks are not rebuildable, keep this in mind as well.
Those japanese shocks and springs are designed for japanese trim cars, the US versions are heavier, bigger, and don't have the same weight distribution. Negating the "designed for this car" argument. Just compare a picture of toucan-sam to the USDM GE8, .
Yes, Normally I'd advocate buying a setup that is designed for the car by someone smarter than me, but in this case, it's moot, because the USDM fit isn't really a performance car.
If I had it to do over again, I'd find the ideal spring rates for the type of racing I want to do, then calculate the dampening rates. I'd reverse engineer some custom dampened Koni inserts into the stock shocks, and get some coilover springs. I'd then take it to a decent race shop and have them corner weight the car in race trim with me in it. That's the process GRM was advocating, it's also the right way to go about it. Unfortunately it is immensely more time-consuming and marginally more expensive than a boxed up and ready to go "suspension package."
That's the route I'd take.
I'd rather have a combo with matched spring/dampening rates... even if it was for a somewhat different car. I know the Fit isn't supposed to be a performance car, but i sure as hell get a kick out of running quick times with a economy car and watch peoples faces in shock
I'd prefer buddy club N+, but i have yet to find the damn things anywhere for the GE chassis
i'm not trying to build something to compete with the J's Racing Fit I just want a decent setup that'll work for daily and track when i want it too. Plus Mugen isn't exactly low quality... so not really worried about rebuildability (if that's a word lol)
#27
After all, is any fitfan now running your fit with mugen suspension and how does it feel on handling? is the set feeling firm even to improve handling on the street and track?
I have a few choices in mind at the moment:
- Mugen suspension (non adjustable)
- Tein street advance coilover
- Bilstein B14 coilover
- Buddy Club coilover
- swift spring only
Does anyone have experience on these suspension (prefer on GE8) and share your view?
I basically want a reliable sussy to improve handling
Thanks
I have a few choices in mind at the moment:
- Mugen suspension (non adjustable)
- Tein street advance coilover
- Bilstein B14 coilover
- Buddy Club coilover
- swift spring only
Does anyone have experience on these suspension (prefer on GE8) and share your view?
I basically want a reliable sussy to improve handling
Thanks
#28
After all, is any fitfan now running your fit with mugen suspension and how does it feel on handling? is the set feeling firm even to improve handling on the street and track?
I have a few choices in mind at the moment:
- Mugen suspension (non adjustable)
- Tein street advance coilover
- Bilstein B14 coilover
- Buddy Club coilover
- swift spring only
Does anyone have experience on these suspension (prefer on GE8) and share your view?
I basically want a reliable sussy to improve handling
Thanks
I have a few choices in mind at the moment:
- Mugen suspension (non adjustable)
- Tein street advance coilover
- Bilstein B14 coilover
- Buddy Club coilover
- swift spring only
Does anyone have experience on these suspension (prefer on GE8) and share your view?
I basically want a reliable sussy to improve handling
Thanks
I must say I absolutely love them. They've taken the already nimble and kart-like Fit and reduced chassis roll, increased chassis braking and turn-in response while actually improving the ride comfort. Car feels very planted and confidence inspiring on the road, but quickly showed how poorly the stock tires paired with them (rear tends to break loose alot easier with the slightest throttle lift while cornering). Fixed that with some sticky 205/55/15s though.
They're pricey, but i'm happy.
#29
Zal, thanks for your comment. This is exactly the review I am after.
Did the mod bring u the need of camber kits and alignment issue? I guess I am asking if there is any follow up as a result of this mod such as misalignment of steering, car pulling to one side , camber too negative etc
With the 205 tires did u fit them to ur oem wheels of 5.5" wide? Did u also feel the loss of power with wider tires? Did u set up front and rear tires dimension t o same spec?
Did the mod bring u the need of camber kits and alignment issue? I guess I am asking if there is any follow up as a result of this mod such as misalignment of steering, car pulling to one side , camber too negative etc
With the 205 tires did u fit them to ur oem wheels of 5.5" wide? Did u also feel the loss of power with wider tires? Did u set up front and rear tires dimension t o same spec?
Last edited by BlueJazz; 01-25-2013 at 09:46 PM.
#30
Zal, thanks for your comment. This is exactly the review I am after.
Did the mod bring u the need of camber kits and alignment issue? I guess I am asking if there is any follow up as a result of this mod such as misalignment of steering, car pulling to one side , camber too negative etc
With the 205 tires did u fit them to ur oem wheels of 5.5" wide? Did u also feel the loss of power with wider tires? Did u set up front and rear tires dimension t o same spec?
Did the mod bring u the need of camber kits and alignment issue? I guess I am asking if there is any follow up as a result of this mod such as misalignment of steering, car pulling to one side , camber too negative etc
With the 205 tires did u fit them to ur oem wheels of 5.5" wide? Did u also feel the loss of power with wider tires? Did u set up front and rear tires dimension t o same spec?
The camber I got using the original bolts is at -0.5 left and right on the front while the rear sees -1. However at this ride height the angle of the control arm is already flat statically. So with the macpherson strut setup, the front camber would probably shift into 0 or even positive during cornering. Since the strut towers don't allow for any caster adjustment,.... I think another half degree or more of negative camber would be ideal.
205s I have on a set of 6ULs so the overall weight comes out equivalent to stock. In the city they feel pretty similar, but on the highway, the 205s definently slow down the car more than the less resistive 185 stock when you lift off the throttle. If you care about highway mpgs and primarily do highway driving, you may want to stick with 195 or thinner tires. Otherwise the 205s didn't really impact our mpg results and provided much better grip.
Here's what the car looks like after the suspension with both wheels sets.
On Stock wheels
On 15x7.5" 6ULs
Last edited by Zalthras; 01-26-2013 at 04:02 PM.
#31
from the pictures above, does it mean that the rear spring is now located on the shock absorber and no longer separate like the normal set up? which one is better?
and
I see that King Motorsport sell this, but the price is kinda high...
any other place that well this Mugen Coil Over in US?
don't want to order from Japan...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 02-05-2013 at 10:55 PM.
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