F/S: *Legit* BRIDE BRIX II with BRIDE RO Rails
#1
F/S: *Legit* BRIDE BRIX II with BRIDE RO Rails
*No Fake Shit*
These started out in the S15 show car and was barely even broken in when we moved it in the FIT. The rails were modded to mount on USDM.
Asking $1600 + S/H
These started out in the S15 show car and was barely even broken in when we moved it in the FIT. The rails were modded to mount on USDM.
Asking $1600 + S/H
#7
To address all, including PMs...
I would rather sell them as pair as the rails are driver/passenger specific.
they sit much lower on the butt area which gradually raise on the leg area.
the brix do recline and the ro rails are sliders.
they are very comfortable even on longer drives. get's even more comfortable on bumps and uneven shitty roads.
sharp high speed turns is a joy... makes you feel like the entire car is stable, it'll get you spoiled
I would rather sell them as pair as the rails are driver/passenger specific.
they sit much lower on the butt area which gradually raise on the leg area.
the brix do recline and the ro rails are sliders.
they are very comfortable even on longer drives. get's even more comfortable on bumps and uneven shitty roads.
sharp high speed turns is a joy... makes you feel like the entire car is stable, it'll get you spoiled
#8
How do these compare to the stockers in terms of weight?
I was considering to getting full buckets to lessen weight, but may be interested in these if.
Could u please post the weights of both seats individually with their rails and brackets?
I was considering to getting full buckets to lessen weight, but may be interested in these if.
Could u please post the weights of both seats individually with their rails and brackets?
#9
the Brides are still installed and the stock seats are in storage. not sure of their respective wights. If anything at all... I say their weight difference would not be too drastic. Brix is not full carbon fiber or fiberglass.
Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 03-16-2012 at 08:45 PM.
#10
Weird question...
I know that these obviously make no seat side air bags, and so the srs light would come on.
But would this then disable all the other airbags in the system in case of an accident?
Or would they still work/go off?
I know that these obviously make no seat side air bags, and so the srs light would come on.
But would this then disable all the other airbags in the system in case of an accident?
Or would they still work/go off?
Last edited by Btrthnezr3; 03-16-2012 at 11:02 AM.
#11
they should not affect other airbags as specific airbags has their own crash sensors... I believe. If you have an airbag warning light up you can check this thru it's code using a scan tool... code will tell you which airbag threw the light on.
Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 03-16-2012 at 12:00 PM.
#12
Can you use a scan tool to reset the light? Or will it just come back on?
I guess you can scan and make sure it's just the code from the seat bags, do the electrical tape trick and still feel "safe"?
I guess you can scan and make sure it's just the code from the seat bags, do the electrical tape trick and still feel "safe"?
#15
SRS Light
Just follow Chad's DIY that he did with his Recaro's... Here's the important info regarding the SRS light.
It did do the trick. He mentions it in the updates in his thread ---> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ll-begins.html
You only need 1 resister per seat/side.
Buy the Brides....
Been thinking about getting a climate controlled seat like Chad after reading his thread, otherwise I'd be all over these Brides.... Great seats, ThEvil0nE!!! glws.
.......................
Now comes the ticky part. Fooling the SRS computer into thinking everything is hunky dory with this new seat in there.
First thing is the 2 ohm resistor for the airbag. Ordered 10 of these for 10 cents but shipping was 4 bucks.
Carefully inserted it into the airbag plug so as to make contact.
Next thing was to extract the seat position sensor from the inside of the seat so it can remain connected.
It was a little tedious to get out. It's on the outside of the driver's seat. Here it is.
Tried to bend a wrench to reach it but the wrench broke so I had to use this little piece of a wrench and a pry bar to work the bolt out.
Finally got it.
I wrapped a piece of conduit around the sensor and taped it on so it can't make contact with any metal. Also wrapped the airbag plug with some tape. Here they are taped up.
Thought I was all set at this point so I turned the key on to see if it worked and of course the SRS light came on.
I didn't realize the seatbelt sensor needed to be plugged in as well. Tried the re-set procedure and it didn't work at all. I don't think the standard method will work on the GE because it didn't respond and there is nothing about it in the service manual.
Finally decided to call it a night as it was late and I was getting super frustrated trying to turn the light off. I even got on line and found out a way to blink out codes by jumping a wire on the diagnostic port. It blinked out some codes but the odometer also flashed the word no! over and over as if to rub it in.
Got up this morning, had some coffee and went out to put everyting back together figuring it was going to take a trip to the dealer to get this re-set. Then I half heartedly did the battery disconnect proceedure as outlined in the manual.
Waited a few minutes. Hooked the battery back up and NO AIRBAG LIGHT . Haven't drivin it yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Hopefully that did the trick.
Now comes the ticky part. Fooling the SRS computer into thinking everything is hunky dory with this new seat in there.
First thing is the 2 ohm resistor for the airbag. Ordered 10 of these for 10 cents but shipping was 4 bucks.
Carefully inserted it into the airbag plug so as to make contact.
Next thing was to extract the seat position sensor from the inside of the seat so it can remain connected.
It was a little tedious to get out. It's on the outside of the driver's seat. Here it is.
Tried to bend a wrench to reach it but the wrench broke so I had to use this little piece of a wrench and a pry bar to work the bolt out.
Finally got it.
I wrapped a piece of conduit around the sensor and taped it on so it can't make contact with any metal. Also wrapped the airbag plug with some tape. Here they are taped up.
Thought I was all set at this point so I turned the key on to see if it worked and of course the SRS light came on.
I didn't realize the seatbelt sensor needed to be plugged in as well. Tried the re-set procedure and it didn't work at all. I don't think the standard method will work on the GE because it didn't respond and there is nothing about it in the service manual.
Finally decided to call it a night as it was late and I was getting super frustrated trying to turn the light off. I even got on line and found out a way to blink out codes by jumping a wire on the diagnostic port. It blinked out some codes but the odometer also flashed the word no! over and over as if to rub it in.
Got up this morning, had some coffee and went out to put everyting back together figuring it was going to take a trip to the dealer to get this re-set. Then I half heartedly did the battery disconnect proceedure as outlined in the manual.
Waited a few minutes. Hooked the battery back up and NO AIRBAG LIGHT . Haven't drivin it yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Hopefully that did the trick.
You only need 1 resister per seat/side.
Buy the Brides....
Been thinking about getting a climate controlled seat like Chad after reading his thread, otherwise I'd be all over these Brides.... Great seats, ThEvil0nE!!! glws.
#16
We had issues of having too much gas in the tank on my fit just hours before an indoor car show. way to flush the fuel out is after the fuel pump. the pump fires up for 2 seconds when key is in ON and shuts off. Friend of mine that works in the honda shop told us that honda's very own tool can keep the fuel pump always in on. so I would believe their tool can also manipulate those srs lights but I could be wrong.
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