Vanct's GE8
#62
I didn't use anything extra to bind the headlights back together, just melted the glue back together and pressed really hard to get the clips to match back up again. If you want to be safe, use a clear silicone to go over it.
I wish I would have had time to make a DIY for this, but there are already a couple of threads on this site, print out the important pages:
To remove and open headlights: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge8-specific-diy-repair-maintenance-sub-forum/41109-diy-headlight-painting.html
Installation tips: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/62401-diy-mini-d2s-projector-retrofit.html
Tips:
-Make sure you have the tools for the job. You need all the basic screwdrivers, pliers, a whole ratchet and wrench set if possible because you will be using all kinds of different millimeter heads and the extenders are a must IMO. Also something that can force apart the headlights will make it a LOT easier on your hands. If your work area might be dim, get an LED torch.
-It is not really necessary to remove front bumper to remove headlights. There are 4 very hard to reach bolts that are attached to the bottom front of the headlight that are accessible once you remove the grill. If you do take off the bumper, I recommend reattaching these 4 bolts (2 on each side) first before reattaching the bumper. (But also a good time to do this to protect your AC condenser https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...sh-grille.html)
-DO NOT overheat the headlights or use an already HOT oven rack. You will melt right through the plastic on the bottom (like I did). Either switch racks or let it cool. When I was opening and then reattaching the headlights, I had to put them in the oven twice each time because the glue would harden too quickly.
-Use J.B. Weld (from Home Depot), the 600 degree resistant type but not J.B. Kwik, to attach the shroud to the projector. If possible, let it dry overnight and do not let it drip into areas where you don't want it. It's pretty much permanent once solid.
-If you want to do halos, get LED halos and not CCFL. If you don't know about wiring, I think it is best to use quick splices to wire them into the parking lights, so they can be on by themselves.
-I got my retrofit from The Retrofit Source, they made the wiring easy as everything was labeled. Make sure it is all secure.
-Aim the headlights by adjusting the screw in the back. Imagine a passenger car in front of you at a stop light. You want the top of your low beams to be no higher than the top of the trunk, or else you will start blinding people. This may take a few drives and adjustments to hit the sweet spot.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask another question, good luck man!
Last edited by Vanct; 11-20-2011 at 04:11 AM.
#65
Idk where I read it. I can't really think of much at all right now. My brain is dead/fried(literally) after messing with heat and pulling and screwing and BLAH. I need a reboot. But it did help a lot! I can't imagine going through all that trouble.
#67
I got my LEDs at superbrightleds.com, no dead bulbs yet.
Last edited by Vanct; 11-21-2011 at 12:29 PM.
#69
Hi Vanct. I really admire your Fit. Your pretty low. I was wondering if you made any other suspension mods besides lowering springs? Like camber bolts, etc. On those wheels and tires do you have any rubbing or other issues? I want to go really low as well and get 17 inch wheels. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Kennyboy1984; 12-10-2011 at 01:20 AM.
#70
Thanks man, I appreciate it. My current setup doesn't rub or scrape unless I go over really bad dips at speed. I didn't need to add camber bolts but I'm cutting it pretty close in the front with the +45 offset. I'll probably have to add them next year if I change my wheels for more flushness .
While it would be cool to go lower, it's my daily driver and I drive 25 miles to work on some rough roads. There's one spot that has a protrusion of cement sticking out of the road about 2 inches that I drive over every day. Any lower and my Mugen spoiler would be gone .
While it would be cool to go lower, it's my daily driver and I drive 25 miles to work on some rough roads. There's one spot that has a protrusion of cement sticking out of the road about 2 inches that I drive over every day. Any lower and my Mugen spoiler would be gone .
#74
Dude they are freaking amazing, the fitment and quality is top notch. Note: I didn't have to use the 2 extra black mounting rings in the ziplock bag because the reverse light from my DEPOs fit just fine. That may not be the case with the OEM tail lights, I think Bluebeard had to use them on that black set he got.
#75
AH same as me! lol But yeah. They look hella good slammed with a slight raked stance.
#79
Thanks again!
Thanks, yeah I definitely need more shots of these in daylight, they really do make the rear of the car pop more now. Like my projectors, these tails make the car feel much higher class as well.
Thanks, yeah I definitely need more shots of these in daylight, they really do make the rear of the car pop more now. Like my projectors, these tails make the car feel much higher class as well.