Vanct's GE8
#201
I was reading on another thread that the zipties could potentially fail as the coil compresses and wears it down. Have you had the same issue? I'm not too concerned about the ride quality, I know it will be about 2 times as stiff as it is now, but it will be worth it if I feel more connected to the road and get any better performance out of it.
#203
Thanks for the references, that's about as low as I'd want it in the second pic. Were you able to lower the front that low with collars still in? I'd leave the perches in the rear for the reasons you mentioned, as long as there is no gap at all like in the first pic. I don't mind a slight rake to it, as long as the front looks a little tucked. Did you camber the front at all, and how? Also, what tire size is pictured?
I noticed they sell some kits with a different urethane mount, instead of reusing the OEM. How necessary would it be to get these, and are they critical for camber adjustment?
"Upper Mount Notes: The Buddy Club upper urethane mounts have several advantages over your standard OEM mounts. First, they will tighten up your ride and give you quicker steering response. Second, on Imports with McPherson struts, they allow for camber adjustment."
I noticed they sell some kits with a different urethane mount, instead of reusing the OEM. How necessary would it be to get these, and are they critical for camber adjustment?
"Upper Mount Notes: The Buddy Club upper urethane mounts have several advantages over your standard OEM mounts. First, they will tighten up your ride and give you quicker steering response. Second, on Imports with McPherson struts, they allow for camber adjustment."
The upper bolt attaching the hub on the BuddyClub's are slotted, I'm managing to pull -2.2 degrees out of it on stock bolts.
Specs up front are 17x7 et32 205/40 rear is 17x7.5 et32 205/40. At that height I had rubbing issues up front even with no fender liner and my fenders pulled out like crazy, and the rears would rub when I had anything in the trunk or any passengers with me. With 195/40's the front shouldn't have issues, I suppose you can pull off 205/40s but with the amount of pulling on the fender it'd look odd. I also had to cut the front bumper tab off because it rested on the tire itself.
I'm addressing the rears below v v
Front collars probly won't be a problem. You can lower them a ton before they hit the collars. And yeah in the rear you'd still have the perch to hold the spring in, just wouldn't have the two locking collars on it. I think FittedOnEm had taken the whole perch out altogether to go lower and that's why his springs were slippin.
Fronts are fine with all collars in, if you start taking them out you'll run into issues with the axle which I showed above.
I tried running the rears with the perch in but it made too much noise. Yeah, the spring sat a bit better, but not enough of a difference to sacrifice the noise it'd make over bumps. I did take the entire perch out instead, and used 5 metal zipties per side to hold the spring in place. It would seat where it needs to, but since the spring was designed to go into a collar, it didn't sit perfectly against the top of the mount. The driver side was fine, but the passenger side worried me. It was a bit too much to the right so it seated a bit crooked against the car. I don't see any "major" issues with it doing so, but that's up to you.
This is with one collar in the rear, maxed out up front:
Another thing to note is that you're almost riding on the bump stops with no rear perch in. The ride was pretty rough on the freeway, even worse with anything in the back. I raised it back up because of the issues that came with it. I bottomed out on every single speed bump I came across, I had to avoid steep driveways because I got stuck on one, certain streets weren't smooth enough so I had to avoid those or else I'd bottom out, and after a week I just felt bad for the damage I was doing to the car. I may go lower again in the future (mainly cause I just love how it looks) but I just want to give a heads up on what comes with rolling that low, unless I just live in a really shitty area.
#204
I was reading on another thread that the zipties could potentially fail as the coil compresses and wears it down. Have you had the same issue? I'm not too concerned about the ride quality, I know it will be about 2 times as stiff as it is now, but it will be worth it if I feel more connected to the road and get any better performance out of it.
#205
Low is a lifestyle for sure. Not one I'm too keen on living. Super low that is. I like being at just the right height where I can get everywhere I need to. But vanct, your car does look great the way it is. Don't rush into gettin coils if you have doubts.
#213
I'd say the BuddyClubs are the best in its price range. I mean, come on, you're comparing them to Function&Forms, D2's, Megans, etc. I haven't had a single issue with them, they just don't like going low.
#214
^ Exactly. I love 'em. Buddy Club is a very well respected racing company and they make fine products. The N+ are made for racing tho, as are all BC products, so yeah they aren't too keen on being slammed.
#216
I'm not trying to argue, but I've really never heard anyone short of the SHG nerds on Honda-Tech and people on this site sing the praises of Buddy Club.
#217
Compared to those things, stock suspension feels good man.
In what world? Where is Buddy Club a very well respected racing company?
I'm not trying to argue, but I've really never heard anyone short of the SHG nerds on Honda-Tech and people on this site sing the praises of Buddy Club.
In what world? Where is Buddy Club a very well respected racing company?
I'm not trying to argue, but I've really never heard anyone short of the SHG nerds on Honda-Tech and people on this site sing the praises of Buddy Club.
Buddy Club-$1000
AMR-$1500
HKS-$1500-$1800
Bilstein-$1100
#218
If you're going to bring 'well respected' and 'racing' into play, Bilstein and HKS are the only ones that merit even the slightest consideration.
Also, could a mod/admin please break this off into a separate thread? We've taken this thread WAY off-topic.
Also, could a mod/admin please break this off into a separate thread? We've taken this thread WAY off-topic.
#220
The upper bolt attaching the hub on the BuddyClub's are slotted, I'm managing to pull -2.2 degrees out of it on stock bolts.
Specs up front are 17x7 et32 205/40 rear is 17x7.5 et32 205/40. At that height I had rubbing issues up front even with no fender liner and my fenders pulled out like crazy, and the rears would rub when I had anything in the trunk or any passengers with me. With 195/40's the front shouldn't have issues, I suppose you can pull off 205/40s but with the amount of pulling on the fender it'd look odd. I also had to cut the front bumper tab off because it rested on the tire itself.
Specs up front are 17x7 et32 205/40 rear is 17x7.5 et32 205/40. At that height I had rubbing issues up front even with no fender liner and my fenders pulled out like crazy, and the rears would rub when I had anything in the trunk or any passengers with me. With 195/40's the front shouldn't have issues, I suppose you can pull off 205/40s but with the amount of pulling on the fender it'd look odd. I also had to cut the front bumper tab off because it rested on the tire itself.
While that definitely deserves it's own thread, you guys bring up a good point. I'm all about having more quality and legit parts (ignore the fake Bride seats lol), so if something is worth it, I'd rather save up to get something a bit better. I may have a chance to pick up a used set of HKS S-Style X later this year, so I'd be going from lowest springs to lowest coilovers lol.