L15a + HKS turbo kit sensation from Indonesia
#23
the vinyl is real, but the see through effect was edited... there is impossible to create a carbon hood with see through effect i think
#24
$30k on mods, or the car + mods?
Why not just buy a 45/50k sports car for that kind of money? Just curious. I absolutely love the car, but if I was going to put more than $3-5,000 worth of mods in a new car, I'd probably just get a different one.
That being said, that is the sexiest fit I have ever seen and I want to drive it. Good work
Also, still curious on what MPG you get with all that stuff
Why not just buy a 45/50k sports car for that kind of money? Just curious. I absolutely love the car, but if I was going to put more than $3-5,000 worth of mods in a new car, I'd probably just get a different one.
That being said, that is the sexiest fit I have ever seen and I want to drive it. Good work
Also, still curious on what MPG you get with all that stuff
Actually i'm quite regret it, since i wanted to buy a civic type R fd2r before, but i used the money to mods the fit..
But with this kinds of mods, i've tried it on a highway drag racing with RX8 and FD2r, and i can pass them at least about 1-2 car distance
for daily driving, i don't know about the MPG since we are using different measurement , so i would rather use KM/L ..it is about 8 KM/L, and if it is highway driving about 10KM/L.. but if it is for racing , about 4KM/L-5KM/L (it does suckss my pocket)
#25
I think what he meant was 30k on the mods alone.
45/50k won't get a "new" sport car, the top model Honda civic will cost you around 47k brand new. even worse a new evo X cost 110k++
car freakin expensive here. unless u r buying used car which also don't come cheap. eg. used 2004 evo 8 is selling for almost 50k crazy expensive.
45/50k won't get a "new" sport car, the top model Honda civic will cost you around 47k brand new. even worse a new evo X cost 110k++
car freakin expensive here. unless u r buying used car which also don't come cheap. eg. used 2004 evo 8 is selling for almost 50k crazy expensive.
#26
This is a killer car for sure, awesome work
Why spend that much money on this car, well, first because he wanted to and can! Second, with that power to weight ratio, the car must FLY!! I'd love to have something like that but I'd do mine w/o the graffics because I'd wanna sneak up people....and whoop their ass'!
Why spend that much money on this car, well, first because he wanted to and can! Second, with that power to weight ratio, the car must FLY!! I'd love to have something like that but I'd do mine w/o the graffics because I'd wanna sneak up people....and whoop their ass'!
Yes, i think power to weight ratio is everything, you could race a 250 - 260 hp sedan car if you came up with a 230-240 hp FIT, since the difference in weight is quite significance...
Now the car is W/O graphic, and i use Noblesse PS sport front bumper... sleeper style
#29
Holy Sweet Mutha Jesus!! Absolutely awesome your highness....
I'd luv to see that car in person tho....it'zz amazing what these guys can add and delete from photoz with photo chop and some of the other programs that are out there..
I'd luv to see that car in person tho....it'zz amazing what these guys can add and delete from photoz with photo chop and some of the other programs that are out there..
#30
That looks like a blast to drive!
Those dyno plots tell me you could make a ton more power with some easy VE mods too. Specifically the torque curve with High v. Low boost.
Intake manifold and a bigger turbine housing should pick up a good deal of power through the mid range and top end.
There is a huge restriction somewhere.
Those dyno plots tell me you could make a ton more power with some easy VE mods too. Specifically the torque curve with High v. Low boost.
Intake manifold and a bigger turbine housing should pick up a good deal of power through the mid range and top end.
There is a huge restriction somewhere.
#31
That looks like a blast to drive!
Those dyno plots tell me you could make a ton more power with some easy VE mods too. Specifically the torque curve with High v. Low boost.
Intake manifold and a bigger turbine housing should pick up a good deal of power through the mid range and top end.
There is a huge restriction somewhere.
Those dyno plots tell me you could make a ton more power with some easy VE mods too. Specifically the torque curve with High v. Low boost.
Intake manifold and a bigger turbine housing should pick up a good deal of power through the mid range and top end.
There is a huge restriction somewhere.
#32
I have an addiction
Better than crack I suppose
I only mentioned it because of his post about swapping to a K-series. I want more people to stick with the L-series so things get developed for it.
It would be a shame to just write off the fantastic little mill that comes with the car.
Better than crack I suppose
I only mentioned it because of his post about swapping to a K-series. I want more people to stick with the L-series so things get developed for it.
It would be a shame to just write off the fantastic little mill that comes with the car.
#34
@ diamond: so you think it is better to stick with the L engine rather than K?? i've saw some thai people doing great works out there with K series. That person is insane, he used all of japanese original JS racing part for his car, but i like it very much! (white GE8 with js racing bodykit)..
yeah, the only option to increase my power now is to get a bigger turbine, external wastegate, aluminum intake manifold.. but i'm afraid the engine won't hold that big power
yeah, the only option to increase my power now is to get a bigger turbine, external wastegate, aluminum intake manifold.. but i'm afraid the engine won't hold that big power
#35
That depends on your goals. How much power do you want to make?
The K motors are great and will make tons of power. But they are heavier, require a new transmission, custom half-shafts, etc. the works.
What I intend to do when I build a second L-series:
O-ring the head
Sleeve the block
Mahle pistons in 9.5:1 compression ratio, with at least a +3mm raised wrist pin and short skirts
K1 or Crower rods at least 3mm longer than stock (This is to improve our R/S ratio and rod angle for greater than stock cylinder pressure)
3/4 Grooved rod and main bearings
Tool steel rod, head and main bolts
This way I get to keep the balance and lightweight of the L15A and still pack a serious punch like a K-series. I want to make at minimum 300whp and the above parts will support more than that.
If you are planning on 500whp or more though, it may be worth while to jump straight to the K-series.
The K motors are great and will make tons of power. But they are heavier, require a new transmission, custom half-shafts, etc. the works.
What I intend to do when I build a second L-series:
O-ring the head
Sleeve the block
Mahle pistons in 9.5:1 compression ratio, with at least a +3mm raised wrist pin and short skirts
K1 or Crower rods at least 3mm longer than stock (This is to improve our R/S ratio and rod angle for greater than stock cylinder pressure)
3/4 Grooved rod and main bearings
Tool steel rod, head and main bolts
This way I get to keep the balance and lightweight of the L15A and still pack a serious punch like a K-series. I want to make at minimum 300whp and the above parts will support more than that.
If you are planning on 500whp or more though, it may be worth while to jump straight to the K-series.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 06-06-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#36
That depends on your goals. How much power do you want to make?
The K motors are great and will make tons of power. But they are heavier, require a new transmission, custom half-shafts, etc. the works.
What I intend to do when I build a second L-series:
O-ring the head
Sleeve the block
Mahle pistons in 9.5:1 compression ratio, with at least a +3mm raised wrist pin and short skirts
K1 or Crower rods at least 3mm longer than stock
3/4 Grooved rod and main bearings
Tool steel rod, head and main bolts
This way I get to keep the balance and lightweight of the L15A and still pack a serious punch like a K-series. I want to make at minimum 300whp and the above parts will support more than that.
If you are planning on 500whp or more though, it may be worth while to jump straight to the K-series.
The K motors are great and will make tons of power. But they are heavier, require a new transmission, custom half-shafts, etc. the works.
What I intend to do when I build a second L-series:
O-ring the head
Sleeve the block
Mahle pistons in 9.5:1 compression ratio, with at least a +3mm raised wrist pin and short skirts
K1 or Crower rods at least 3mm longer than stock
3/4 Grooved rod and main bearings
Tool steel rod, head and main bolts
This way I get to keep the balance and lightweight of the L15A and still pack a serious punch like a K-series. I want to make at minimum 300whp and the above parts will support more than that.
If you are planning on 500whp or more though, it may be worth while to jump straight to the K-series.
#37
Similar to the way my Laser (~2500lbs with the FWD bits in it) handles double that.
With some solid subframe bushings, sticky tires, a solid front roll mount, boost-by-gear, 2-step launch control and judicious use of the go-pedal I get most of that down to the road.
Driving like a moron I can light up the front tires at triple digit speeds...
With some solid subframe bushings, sticky tires, a solid front roll mount, boost-by-gear, 2-step launch control and judicious use of the go-pedal I get most of that down to the road.
Driving like a moron I can light up the front tires at triple digit speeds...
#38
Gah! I swear I'm coming to you when I start working on FI if I ever get around to it before I get rid of the fit.
#40
i've done some re tune on my car.. and we've got some increase in both HP and torque.. check it out guys
Updated Dynotest result- Max 252 hp with 310 Nm Torque with standart turbo kit actuator
By davinelika at 2011-06-12
By davinelika at 2011-06-12
Updated Dynotest result- Max 252 hp with 310 Nm Torque with standart turbo kit actuator
Updated Dynotest result- Max 252 hp with 310 Nm Torque with standart turbo kit actuator
By davinelika at 2011-06-12
By davinelika at 2011-06-12
Updated Dynotest result- Max 252 hp with 310 Nm Torque with standart turbo kit actuator