got any suggestions on good wire? you obviously use a lot of it so id figure youd know what brands/sites are good to order

 

Hi Fit4Spl,
I want to ask a question,
when you said turn the fan to setting 2, do you mean the A/C blower fan?
and if in the near future (probably in the next 3 months)
I want to upgrade to a Big 3 wiring using 0 AWG,
is it possible that I bought it as a complete kit from you?
Thank You

 

Yes the AC fan, as for wire you can get it from many places online, if you want GREAT quality OFC then I would use Sound Deadening and Car Audio Wiring by Audio Technix - #1 Dynamat Sound Deadener Replacement! they have some of the best prices on wire out there. They also make a Big 3 Kit aside from selling wire by the foot.

 

Hello,
Thank You so much for your information,
following your recommendation, I just bought Audio Technix Big 3 kit from their ebay link.
Here is the item that I just bought:
Audio Technix 1/0 Ga Gauge 30% Copper Wire - Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit - 5'

Audio Technix 1 0 GA Gauge 30 Copper Wire Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit 5' | eBay

I do have one more question, this kit came with ring terminals,
do I need special clamping tool to clamp this ring terminals to the cables,
or I can just use ordinary Pliers tools?
could you teach me how to clamp this wire?
and do I need to solder the end of the wire before I clamp it?
Thank You again.

 

Here is the same tool I use, EZ Red B790C Crimping Hammer Indent Tool all you need after you get this is a hammer, you do not need to solder and crimp.

 

Thanks again for your recommendation
I just bought this crimper at Amazon.com, they sell it cheaper there.
Thank You again!

 

Hi Fit4Spl,
I am now thinking of replacing the front speaker too.
so I have 2 questions, please help me,

1. May I know what is the maximum Depth for a 6.5 inches woofer that can be installed on the Fit front door and still have the window roll down completely?
I don't mind using ring spacer/adaptor to make this work but
another thing is I don't want to modify my door panel... so

2. How thick is the ring spacer that can be used that still allow the stock door panel/speaker grille?

Thank You

 

My 6.5's are around 2.5" depth so I used a 3/4" mounting ring, only required minimal trimming to some plastic on the inside of the door panel.

 

Well to make a long story short my current subs were not really impressing me, so I decided to not only change subs but also a build a different style box. So I built a side firing ported box tuned at 35Hz and changed to Sundown Audio Zv3 12s, here are the pictures of the box being made.

 

 

Thanks I finished up shortly after my new subs arrived so here are the final pics and the pics of the subs.





















This shot the new subs are in my current box as I want to meter the car before putting in the side firing port.




Went to a friends house with a termlab and did legal sealed up testing on both the old 4cuft box and this new one.

This is the 4cuft box at 47Hz.



I did not take a photo of the new boxes score because it was only .1 db louder, however the side firing port box sounds much better so that box is staying in the car. Here is a shot of the port side showing the room the port has to breathe.



Overall I love the new box, the clamp tests show I am getting 3000watts out of the amp with the impedance rising to 2ohms, so the amp is actually doing MORE power than it is rated for at 2ohms by around 300watts. Final plans are to change all my batteries to XS Power D5100s, one battery is on the way the other two will be ordered as I can afford them.

 

Check this seller on ebay, hes has OFC wire cheaper than anyone right now.

audiowireconnection2009 | eBay

 

Thank You again Fit4Spl,
by the way,
I see that you are building a very good sub box with Very Thick Front Baffle !
Nice !

I only wish I can work with MDF as good as you, unfortunately,
I am not patient when it come to doing custom job like that...

 

 

Latest scores, this was a local show on a termlab, score on the LEFT is in the kick and score on the RIGHT is on the dash, this was all sealed up.

 

147.1 hella loud!!!

 

HOLY CRAP JUST GOT MY MIND BLOWN YOUR WOOD WORKING SKILLS ARE AMAZING!!! Thanks for all the helpful links. I just sold my Jeep Cherokee as I installed FatMat 80MIL over the entire Jeep. Headliner doors and all. My system was weak really weak compared to yours but it was plenty loud enough for me. Just a heads up a lot of guys in the Jeep world use Welding Wire for Battery Cables. It's not very expensive and works perfectly. Thoughts?
Also have you ever ran Hertz Audio? I'm looking to install a set of components in the front and rear with a 4 Channel Rockford Fos Power Amp running 150watts rms
Oh if it helps I pretty much listen to country music

 

Hertz is good stuff as long as you buy the legit ones, there are some fakes out there, a lot on ebay, so be careful buying them.

 

Didn't mean to hijack your thread with the photos

 

Got it all finished up today, only have to do a slight modification to a trim panel tomorrow and it will be 100%.



It's a little hard to see in this picture but there is not only the strap holding the batteries in place I made a I shaped bracket from MDF that goes between the batteries and has a long back plate to hold them down and then attaches to the amp board via an L bracket so front to back motion is covered as well.







Here is the front battery with new terminals.









And here is a comparison of the SKY HIGH Car Audio 0awg next to Tsunami 0awg.