It's probably been asked in one of the many threads but I can't sort out what best applies to my case so please indulge me. (2010 MT)

I drive less than 10k miles per year so I've been changing my oil and filter at the year mark—with 20% or more left on the MM. I'm at 29k (about 9k miles since the last change). I'm planning a 1000 mile road trip the end of September. The MM is at 20% right now. Judging by past experience, I suspect it will be over 10% by the time I return from the trip—still well in the acceptable range. But it's been a little over a year since the last service.

So, service it before or after the trip? My concern is that by getting the MM reset before it gets low enough, I'm missing other codes (such as air filter) from coming on. Any suggestions that don't start with "change your oil every 5k miles and don't reset MM" welcome.

Ps. I get this done at dealer and they reset the MM after each service. I live in an apartment so I don't want to do it myself. Thanks!

 

My wife's Fit and my S2k both get low miles per year. I have the oil changed on both annually. In you case, I'd do it now since it's been a year.

 

I'd get it serviced before you go on the trip, just to be kind to the car. It's been close to a year since you had it done, right?

If the dealer is "doing it right" they aren't just resetting the MM but use the Honda Data System (HDS). This software doesn't just reset the MM, it allows them to log exactly what service was done. However with no way to check what they do I suspect they just reset the MM and don't distinguish what work was done. Especially when it's in the fast oil and lube lane.

Even if the mechanic does a careful job logging what work was done, the service advisers will oversell service, recommending things you don't need. While this is harmless (except to your wallet), lots of times things will go undone at the same time. The MM is great of judging when the next service is due, but isn't so great at tracking what was done, or what needs doing beyond an oil change. Bottom line is you need to track what work was done and be aware of what may need doing.

• Air filters should be replaced about ever 30,000 miles. More often doesn't help and actually reduces the effectiveness of the air filter.
  
• Cabin filters should be changed yearly (ok, this is my rule, but I think they get stinky if left in longer). This is an incredibly easy DIY taking 5 minutes, no tools, and $20 to buy a filter from the parts counter. Don't pay the dealer whatever awful amount they charge.
  
• Transmission service (ATF drain fill) should be done before 100K miles. On my car the MM flagged it at 70,000 miles. Being obsessive I do it every 30K and don't go by the MM. Honda overcharges for this; it's equivalent to an oil change with 3 quarts of fluid costing about $45. With labor it shouldn't be more than $80. MT oil changes around 100K or when the MM calls for it. These don't take the abuse the autos do.
  
• Spark plugs and valve adjustment will need doing somewhere around 100K. This is expensive as it involves removal of the cowl below the windshield, removal of the intake air box, removal of the valve cover. Seals and gaskets alone are about $50. Plugs another $50. Labor at least $300.
  
• Coolant is somewhere beyond 100K. As long as the level is maintained I wouldn't worry about this, it doesn't wear out.

The manual is emphatic about using Honda Automatic Transmission fluid, Coolant, and Brake fluid. The additives are unique. Aftermarket fluids may not work as well. Engine oil doesn't matter, I like to use Mobile 1. As you're having it done at the dealer, tell them you want synthetic. The extra $20 or so may help. Synthetic doesn't form sludge, sometimes a problem in small tight engines with longer oil change intervals.

Everything else is "as needed" but remember, the dealer will oversell service. This is where they make money, not the showroom.

 

i find that at 20% the MM declines rapidly to 15% to 10%. I'd get the oil change and whatever else necessary to be changed at the 30k mark

 

in this case, id do it after your trip. but check your tire pressure before your trip.
dont be worried if the mm goes down past 0%. car's not going to blow up.

ive had several instances were i let the dealer do the work due to my
lazyness and later regretted it completely. if your car is running
fine right now, and considering it's still fairly new, dont touch it.

if this was me on my car, i would do the change and inspection before the
trip. but i do all the work myself so that's a big difference.

 

Thanks for all the advice. Steve244, special thanks for the detailed response. That must have taken some time to compose. I recently moved but I have in a box somewhere my maintenance receipts—which I kept in a file. I will check the history and the dates to see if it's been a year and make my decision once I see what's been done and when it was done.

 

Found my service records and also the maintenance book I got with the car at purchase. It's been over a year since service so I'm getting the service done before the trip. Will ask for oil and filter plus rotate/balance tires. I'm at almost 30k miles and over 3 years since purchase so I'm due for new air filters and also replace brake fluid. Thanks all.

 

Well, three things to note:


First, for some reason dealers hose you on replacing the cabin air filter, it's about the easiest thing to do, you don't even have to open the hood- it's behind the glove box.


Second, you probably don't need to balance the tires unless you have symptoms of out-of-balance tires (a rough ride and/or vibration of the steering wheel at highway speeds).


And third, if you drive less than 10,000 miles a year you probably don't need to rotate the tires every year, though some may disagree.

 

fast forward a week or so, wheels fall off car during trip.

 

Good catch on the brake fluid flush. I did this at 3 years and will do again at 6. And kudos for reading the manual. Not many do. Not sure about a maintenance book though. Is this something the dealer added? I have an owner's manual (with a chapter on maintenance) and the warranty booklet.

Avoid so called "30K service packages." Dealers like to bundle services together and charge too much money for them. Look at what the service includes and then ask for a-la-carte prices. Usual justification are extra inspections, but they do all inspections with an oil change (at least at the Honda dealers here).

And yeah, look at how much they charge for a cabin filter. Then go buy one at the parts counter for $25. We'll walk you through the process they charge $80+ for. Ok here it is:

1. Open lower glove box.
2. remove stuff.
3. press in on sides of glove box towards the top where the rubber stops are, allowing it to drop forward.
4. Press in on the two tabs on either side of the drawer holding the cabin filter. (it's clearly visible behind the glove box.)
5. pull drawer out.
6. remove old filter (note orientation)
7. put in new filter (note direction of airflow, it is downwards)
8. replace drawer
9. replace glove box (pressing sides in to clear rubber stops)
10. replace stuff.
11. close lower glove box.

Total time, 5 minutes if you have a lot of stuff.

 

my dealer didnt have a 30k only 40k or something a few yrs back when i made the mistake of letting then do the 09.

 

While you're at the parts counter, get replacement wiper blade refills. Unless you've already paid too much for parts store blades, you can replace just the rubber bits for about $5 each. That's a bit more niggly to replace than the cabin filter, but also is a no tools effort (the owner's manual has directions).

 

Thanks all on the recommendations. I dunno about the wheels but I rotate every 10k or so upon oil change and it's almost 10k miles again. I assume it's good to balance when they're rotated? I guess I don't have such a jaundiced view of dealers as some here. My dealer has been good to me but I just moved so I wanted to be well prepared as this will be first time I use this dealer.

 

Jaundiced? Realist. It's your money.

I married into a car that had been faithfully maintained by the dealer (toyota in this case). I could never get her to question the dealer until at 120K miles when she took it in for an oil change and transmission service. They said the transmission was shot and needed replacement as it had never had the fluid changed (burned oxidized fluid). They wanted $700 to do a valve cover gasket replacement (V6s are a pain): oil was "pouring" out. She started questioning their professionalism with the transmission. "Why didn't they change the fluid? I always took it there for service!"

We took it to an independent I trust moderately. The oil pouring out was through the drain plug (that only Toyota had ever touched). He replaced this with an oversize plug. He dropped the transmission pan to check for excessive shavings. It looked healthy so he replaced the fluid and sent us on our way. That was 30K ago.

Anyway, she still takes her car in for periodic service, but tracks it herself now and doesn't take the service salesmen's word for anything without clearly understanding the need, and checking alternatives first.

 

Steve244, yikes! That's a bad story. I can understand your concern. I started replacing my own oil and filter and doing minor maintaince 20 years ago after a similar experience. I took my accord to the dealer for an oil change and I found an oil puddle under the drain plug the next morning. The pan threads and plug were good. They just forgot to tighten it down properly. Fast forward 20 years later. I've had better luck with dealer on the fit. The wife and I have downsized recently and live in an apartment, and frankly, if I never get under a car again it will be too soon. My priorities have changed. The dealer is a better shot for me in this case. I do have a good independent guy / shop that I trust but he's in the town I moved from. Need to stick with a dealer for now unless I find a new local independent.

Thanks again for all your help and good advice. I really do appreciate this board even though I'm not much of a car guy. I've learned a lot and the A/C mod alone probably saved me a few bucks by now.

PS. The cabin filter sure sounds simple so I'll do that myself in the parking lot. Wipers as well.

 

I'm in my second childhood. My son bought a Miata and wanted to wrench on it, so I used this as an excuse to buy a floor jack and jack stands. We've done major work overhauling the valves on his car. This weekend was changing wheel studs that had stretched over 18 years. As an added benefit (?!) I do all maintenance on the Fit. Anyway, I'm fully in line with not getting dirty for an oil change but I'm even more conscious of what little maintenance these cars require so I'm sensitive to spending too much at the dealers.

 

Can you elaborate on or link this a/c mod? I was just reading your post and your mentioning is the first I've heard about it. You seem pretty reluctant to do work at your apartment, so I'm thinking its easy and seems to have saved you a few dollars? I'm interested...

Thanks,

 

I have a big distrust in general on any dealership service. You never know when they will screw you or what they will try next. A spot of grease on the CV boot is a great one. The big thing for the mechanic is to up-sell anything they think they can get by with. It is a big profit item for them and the mechanic who gets paid by the job and not by the hour.

I have more horror stories than there is room to cover here. One example is I took a 6000 mile car in with a miss. I had already diagnosed it to be a bad valve that was covered under warranty. I was prepared for them to screw me over on this so I was prepared. I picked up the car a day later and said that was fast. They handed me a bill for new plugs, and a valve adjustment. They said the valve was OK.

I paid the bill. Pulled the car into their lot and removed one plug. It had paint on the bottom of it right where I had put it. (It was the same plug.) I checked the back of the valve cover and it had scotch tape on it between the cover and the head. Again right where I had put it.

I called the service manager over and showed him the tape and and plug. While he stood there removed the other three plugs. All 4 had paint on them. I ran a quick compression test on the bad cylinder and it was still low. I took pictures of the items with him present.

He insisted that the work was done and had no explanation of why the "New" plugs had paint on them or were darkened from previous running. I left and called Honda.

Honda sent me to another dealer to get the real problem fixed. They also refunded my bill from the first dealership.

On my 09 I had a leaking CV boot. I called Honda and they said it definitely was warranty covered. I stopped by the dealership and had them order the boot. On the day I took it in, when I got ready to pick it up, they handed me a bill for $320. When I said it was under warranty they said it was not. After I told them to call Honda, they magically found in their system where they were billing Honda and under a separate work order were also billing me for the same work.

I have at least 5 other stories like that and it is not just one brand of dealership.

If you do find a good stealership then stick with them, but always verify their work. Always ask for the old parts back if you are paying the bill.

I would learn how to change my own oil and filter.

 

you dont need to re-balance the tires unless you have vibrations (or if it's done for free, why not i guess)


as long as you pay dealers are good to easy customers like yourself.

 

I believe there's a way to preview the upcoming MM codes before it starts showing them (after something like 50% life); something along the lines of holding down the button for several seconds while on the percentage display. The details are probably buried in little tiny type in the owner's manual somewhere. In a case like the original poster's situation, where the oil change time comes before the usage limit, this could be quite handy information.

And I do agree that a little too long before an oil change isn't going to harm anything. Engine oil isn't like milk that is tasty one day but can turn nasty and curdled a couple days later. Much, much more important is keeping sufficient oil in the engine. (Of course, regularly neglecting oil changes is not a good practice...but that's a different situation entirely.)