Oil change maintence minder question
#1
Oil change maintence minder question
Hello there. I've read a lot but never posted. But now have a question.
I've had my 2009 fit sport for almost 2 years now. I bought it with less than 4000 miles on it.
When it got to over 6000 the oil life was at 30 percent so I had it changed. Probably could've waited for a while but I didn't know much then.
I am only a little over 3000 miles since last oil change and my oil life says 60 percent. BUT it has been over a year since it was last changed. And I clearly don't drive much since I've only put on 5000 miles in about two years.
So should I continue to follow the maintenance minder even though I am a light driver. Or should I get it change once a year or something. Does it take into account mileage or any of that? I am willing to trust it but I couldn't find definitive info on low mileage oil change info.
Thanks in advance!
I've had my 2009 fit sport for almost 2 years now. I bought it with less than 4000 miles on it.
When it got to over 6000 the oil life was at 30 percent so I had it changed. Probably could've waited for a while but I didn't know much then.
I am only a little over 3000 miles since last oil change and my oil life says 60 percent. BUT it has been over a year since it was last changed. And I clearly don't drive much since I've only put on 5000 miles in about two years.
So should I continue to follow the maintenance minder even though I am a light driver. Or should I get it change once a year or something. Does it take into account mileage or any of that? I am willing to trust it but I couldn't find definitive info on low mileage oil change info.
Thanks in advance!
#2
If memory serves me right, Honda recommends getting the oil replaced once every 6 months if you don't see the service required/maintenance minder interval when using a synthetic blend oil or once a year if using full synthetic.
#3
I think they say at least once a year regardless of the MM, though other people seem to think the time interval is less important than the MM which works on a formula that Honda doesn't disclose but people seem to guess is a combination of a number of factors including mileage.
#4
Originally Posted by owner's manual page 251
If the message ‘‘ SERVICE ’’ does not appear more than 12 months after the
display is reset, change the engine oil every year.
display is reset, change the engine oil every year.
#5
Think of the maintenance minder as a dummy gauge. Its purpose is to “re”mind those who are non-observant and don’t care to track their car’s usage. It has no clue what you put in it (dino vs. top shelf full synthetic vs grape juice), where the car is used (5000 miles of city hwy vs dirty roads), and I don’t believe it calculates time (say you parked the car for 1 year at50%, when you start it up it’ll still be at 50%). The question is then what is the shelf life of a bottle of oil vs an open bottle of oil (in the engine).
Being in Allentown and with low mileage, I tend to think the car goes through harsher conditions. You get 4 seasons (hot/humid to dry/cold) and likely harsher drives (short trips). It is also important that you don’t let the car sit idle for too long, you need to drive it every so often to let the oils lub the seals. Purely my suggestion (feel free to do otherwise) is to change it once a year and don’t let it sit for too long –cars break down faster if not used. They need love and like to be flogged (rev limiter exists for a reason, I kid)
Being in Allentown and with low mileage, I tend to think the car goes through harsher conditions. You get 4 seasons (hot/humid to dry/cold) and likely harsher drives (short trips). It is also important that you don’t let the car sit idle for too long, you need to drive it every so often to let the oils lub the seals. Purely my suggestion (feel free to do otherwise) is to change it once a year and don’t let it sit for too long –cars break down faster if not used. They need love and like to be flogged (rev limiter exists for a reason, I kid)
Last edited by silentnoise713; 02-25-2014 at 11:05 AM.
#6
Think of the maintenance minder as a dummy gauge. Its purpose is to “re”mind those who are non-observant and don’t care to track their car’s usage. It has no clue what you put in it (dino vs. top shelf full synthetic vs grape juice), where the car is used (5000 miles of city hwy vs dirty roads), and I don’t believe it calculates time (say you parked the car for 1 year at50%, when you start it up it’ll still be at 50%). The question is then what is the shelf life of a bottle of oil vs an open bottle of oil (in the engine).
It's true:
- It doesn't account for long periods of non-use; change at least yearly per the manual.
- It doesn't consider extreme dusty conditions; beware
- It doesn't care what kind of oil you use; its algorithms consider the SAE and API certification required in the manual.
- It also doesn't consider towing or low-speed mountainous use.
It does track the major variables that determine normal or severe service and is quite good at doing it. Anecdotes where it calls for oil changes at 1,500 miles, 10,000 miles, and everything in between are common and consistent with use. Oil analysis backs up the MM's calculations.
A dummy gauge is the stickers the service people put on your windshield advising when the next oil change is due.
#7
It's a bit smarter than you give it credit for. The MM tracks revolutions at temperature and uses this to calculate service life.
It's true:
A dummy gauge is the stickers the service people put on your windshield advising when the next oil change is due.
It's true:
- It doesn't account for long periods of non-use; change at least yearly per the manual.
- It doesn't consider extreme dusty conditions; beware
- It doesn't care what kind of oil you use; its algorithms consider the SAE and API certification required in the manual.
- It also doesn't consider towing or low-speed mountainous use.
A dummy gauge is the stickers the service people put on your windshield advising when the next oil change is due.
Key here is to know your own conditions and how “you” (not directed at anyone) use your car; not that many really care –it’s a commuter car that gets traded in after a few years. Oil analysis is the only reliable measure as every oil change interval can be different (uncontrollable factors like elements change) but is after the fact.
About the last point regarding towing/mountain use, isn’t that more of a drivetrain drag concern (transmission fluid)? I suppose it could be a concern if you are pulling a something it shouldn’t. A sticker is a sticker. A dummy “gauge”should still be an instrument (a light) that reminds you. For the record, it is better to have this than not.
Last edited by silentnoise713; 02-25-2014 at 11:35 PM.
#8
Key here is to know your own conditions and how “you” (not directed at anyone) use your car; not that many really care –it’s a commuter car that gets traded in after a few years. Oil analysis is the only reliable measure as every oil change interval can be different (uncontrollable factors like elements change) but is after the fact.
There are also older cars that have "service needed" lights or indicators that are only mileage based. Perhaps this is your concern?
How do you tell when it's time to change the oil, short of monthly analysis?
Last edited by Steve244; 02-26-2014 at 08:06 AM. Reason: 2nd thoughts
#10
Thanks everyone! I appreciate all the input.
I got it changed yesterday. I don't like the guy that did it though. Just not very friendly. He also told me to get it changed every 3 months since the oil expires.
But he said the car looks good otherwise. In fact he asked if it was new and I just bought it.
On another note I need new tires. Apparently they are a goofy size. Found a place near me that can get them in for me.
I got it changed yesterday. I don't like the guy that did it though. Just not very friendly. He also told me to get it changed every 3 months since the oil expires.
But he said the car looks good otherwise. In fact he asked if it was new and I just bought it.
On another note I need new tires. Apparently they are a goofy size. Found a place near me that can get them in for me.
#12
Thanks everyone! I appreciate all the input.
I got it changed yesterday. I don't like the guy that did it though. Just not very friendly. He also told me to get it changed every 3 months since the oil expires.
But he said the car looks good otherwise. In fact he asked if it was new and I just bought it.
On another note I need new tires. Apparently they are a goofy size. Found a place near me that can get them in for me.
I got it changed yesterday. I don't like the guy that did it though. Just not very friendly. He also told me to get it changed every 3 months since the oil expires.
But he said the car looks good otherwise. In fact he asked if it was new and I just bought it.
On another note I need new tires. Apparently they are a goofy size. Found a place near me that can get them in for me.
Definitely give tirerack.com a look. I ordered some tires from them and they have great prices and service. I bought Yokohama s drive tires and I'm very satisfied. They're great on dry or wet pavement.
#13
Every 3 months seems rather frequent depending on how much you drive. I change mine when the MM shows 30%. My full synthetic Castrol is already plenty dirty at 40%, I don't want to keep that dirty oil all the way to 15% when the wrench turns on. My engine was getting a little noisy last time I let it get to that so 30% is the max i let it get to. At that frequency, I'm changing my oil about 3 times a year.
Definitely give tirerack.com a look. I ordered some tires from them and they have great prices and service. I bought Yokohama s drive tires and I'm very satisfied. They're great on dry or wet pavement.
Definitely give tirerack.com a look. I ordered some tires from them and they have great prices and service. I bought Yokohama s drive tires and I'm very satisfied. They're great on dry or wet pavement.
The issue is contaminants that don't color (colour) the oil: water and acids. These build up under cold operation and gas off at operating temperature. Short trips where the engine doesn't operate for long periods at operating temperature are the hardest on your oil. The MM tracks these parameters (revolutions and temperature) specifically and calls for earlier oil changes, as low as 1,500 miles by some accounts when the oil is still clear (relatively speaking). Believe me Honda is being conservative when they call for oil changes at 0%. You're throwing away good oil changing at 30%.
I admit I change at 15% when the light starts nagging me; otherwise I'd let it go to 0%.
Last edited by Steve244; 02-27-2014 at 06:35 AM.
#14
What is "plenty dirty"? That darker color (colour) just means it's doing its job. Bad stuff gets filtered out. Synthetic doesn't break down like conventional oil, and certainly not in less than 6,000 miles (10,000 KM). Its lubricating properties should be maintained well beyond 20,000 miles.
The issue is contaminants that don't color (colour) the oil: water and acids. These build up under cold operation and gas off at operating temperature. Short trips where the engine doesn't operate for long periods at operating temperature are the hardest on your oil. The MM tracks these parameters (revolutions and temperature) specifically and calls for earlier oil changes, as low as 1,500 miles by some accounts when the oil is still clear (relatively speaking). Believe me Honda is being conservative when they call for oil changes at 0%. You're throwing away good oil changing at 30%.
I admit I change at 15% when the light starts nagging me; otherwise I'd let it go to 0%.
The issue is contaminants that don't color (colour) the oil: water and acids. These build up under cold operation and gas off at operating temperature. Short trips where the engine doesn't operate for long periods at operating temperature are the hardest on your oil. The MM tracks these parameters (revolutions and temperature) specifically and calls for earlier oil changes, as low as 1,500 miles by some accounts when the oil is still clear (relatively speaking). Believe me Honda is being conservative when they call for oil changes at 0%. You're throwing away good oil changing at 30%.
I admit I change at 15% when the light starts nagging me; otherwise I'd let it go to 0%.
#15
Question regarding the oil life gauge. Does it reset itself automatically? I took my 2013 Fit to the dealer for an oil change and the oil life was 90%, they claimed to have done the change but it still reads the same.
I suspect that they are trying to con me or did they just forgot to re-set it. Thanks in advance.
I suspect that they are trying to con me or did they just forgot to re-set it. Thanks in advance.
#17
you can reset it yourself if the dealer didn't. Just put the key in the "on" position (dash lights come on) without starting the car. Hold the MM button for about 10 seconds. Release and hold again for 5 seconds. It should reset to 100%
Oil change at 90%?
Oil change at 90%?
#18
As others have stated, get it changed once per year. It's in the manual. My suggestion is to get the oil changed when you take your car to the mechanic for PA State inspection. There are other things that you need to do once a year as well.
Look @ page 134
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...999O00132A.pdf
Look @ page 134
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...999O00132A.pdf
#19
As others have stated, get it changed once per year. It's in the manual. My suggestion is to get the oil changed when you take your car to the mechanic for PA State inspection. There are other things that you need to do once a year as well.
Look @ page 134
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...999O00132A.pdf
Look @ page 134
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...999O00132A.pdf
- That's not a Fit manual. It looks like a North American Honda maintenance schedule from 20 years ago. In any event, it calls for changes every 7,500 miles or 12 months whichever comes first.
- What if the MM calls for a change in 3 months? Are you recommending changing it yearly?
There is nothing that needs to be done yearly, unless the MM has not called for an oil change, then this should be at the anniversary.
#20
Yeah, this is not right. The spark plugs do not need to be changed until 100,000 miles according to the FIT owners manual. The pdf posted calls for spark plugs replacement at 30K miles. This must be old when regular plugs were used while the Fit uses long life Irridium or platinum plugs.