for the '11 Fit ? Will likely do an O.C. within a few weeks and will be draining out the Honda Genuine S.N. 0w-20 ( C/P ) . There's over 14,000 miles on the engine and the oil will have close to 7,300 miles on it . The oil filter is the A02 . Would send the sample to Blackstone . The H.G. 0w-20 is the 1st oil change and thinking of using the Mobiil 1 A.F.E. 0w-20 or Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 for the second O.C.. Would stay with another A02 oil filter

 

.. sure? I mean it will either be interesting or it won't, and if it's the former then certainly I want to see it

 

I have used Blackstone and yes, would love to see it. Im not familiar with the A02 filter designation. Please elaborate.

Go with the Pennzoil, for a selfish reason. I own Royal Dutch Shell stock and not ExxonMobil. Pennzoil is a Shell product and helps pay me dividends.

 

I've been using S.O.P.U.S. products for decades . Pennzoil and Shell . Use Shell synthetic 5-20 or 5w-30 for the '08 Yaris sedan . BJs Wholesale has the SHELL synthetic case of 6 for $18.99 ( $27.99 - $9.00 off BJs coupon ) and the SHELL conventional case of 12 for $25.99 ( $34.99 - $9.00 off BJs coupon ) . Glad to help you out .

 

Honda has TWO part numbers for their common oil filters. The part number ending in A01 is made by Filtech, the A02 suffix is made by Fram (Honeywell).

Many people HATE Fram filters, but the Honda-spec units are well made and comparable to the high-end ToughGuard line of Fram, not the cheapo "Orange Can of Death".

I think both filters brands are fine. I have been using the A02s for many years (I buy in the 36-filter lots from the suppliers such as H and A or Bernardi).

 

Here's a A01 cut open . http://www.handa-accessories.com/a01open.jpg .

 

Decided not to have the oil analysis yet at 14,584 miles . Will likey do one when it's over 21,000 miles . Did change the Honda 0w-20 to Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 .

 

As much as people would have wanted to see it, its better that you are waiting. Usually UOA's aren't starting to get 'accurate' until a few changes have taken place (and the engine is broken in). There are only a few people including myself over at BITOG that have posted them. I have a second UOA coming up in the next 5k miles (next month - month and a half) and I'll also post if anyone wants to see it (and my previous one, too). I'm running M1 0W20 AFE with a PureOne PL14612 filter.

 

We'd like to see one of the A.F.E. 0w-20 . We bought 4 quarts of it at Wal-Mart and took it back to exchange for the P.P. 0w-20 which I'll try to get a sample of . Do you find it difficult to get a sample from the Fit due to the plastic guard that's near the drain hole ? Did the change on Saturday and got messy . Have to do it in the driveway with homemade 2 tier wooden ramps that are scrap 2 x 6. Looking forward to the U.O.A..

 

I didn't have any problems getting a sample. Remove the drain plug and let 'er dump. Quickly get a sample early to midway through the drain and wipe off the outside.

 

Thanks for the UOA. I was a member of BITOG, but I got the boot. I have posted three UOA's at BITOG for a 2008 Toyota Yaris sedan. We're still able to browse at the site but can't post. Looking forward to your next report and hope some of your numbers drop.

 

Mhadden, notice that you are at fuelly.com as well. Our Celestial Blue Fit is there as well under Cinder.

 

 

I never understood why people get these? What's the point? To see how your analysis compares the analysis the company did for other customers? I'm not knocking your actions, just don't understand them. Do the measured parameters correlate to some other parameter and why?

 

Coming from the aviation world, where this is much more common, its to detect internal engine problems before they result in total engine failure. It may be overkill for an engine that costs $5000 or less to replace, but even the smallest Continental or Lycoming engine is more like $25K.

High iron could warn of impending cam failure, combined with high silicon it may mean that the air filter is not filtering (K&N), water that may mean an internal coolant leak, such as a head gasket, high lead may mean rod or main bearings going out, or at least bearing corrosion due to the coolant leak.

I usually do one right before the warranty expires, so that I can maybe get something fixed, instead of having a major failure on my dime.

The other reason is to validate extended drain intervals, such as using Amsoil or M1 EP beyond Honda's recommendation for conventional oil.