First Oil Change & Filter
#1
First Oil Change & Filter
Doing my first oil change in this car as well as the air filter tonight after it cools down some.
Purchased 4 quarts of Mobil 1 Full synthetic "Advanced Fuel Economy" 0W-20 oil. It is also labeled with "Suitable for use in Honda & Toyota", never seen that before.
Looked at the manual, it states 3.8 quarts(with filter) of 0W-20. Also purchased a Bosch Premium filter as well.
Air filter almost had me pass out. $30 for one, my Titan filter which was bigger cost almost half that!
Purchased 4 quarts of Mobil 1 Full synthetic "Advanced Fuel Economy" 0W-20 oil. It is also labeled with "Suitable for use in Honda & Toyota", never seen that before.
Looked at the manual, it states 3.8 quarts(with filter) of 0W-20. Also purchased a Bosch Premium filter as well.
Air filter almost had me pass out. $30 for one, my Titan filter which was bigger cost almost half that!
#2
Done.
Had to go and get a different filter however. The Bosch Premium filter did not fit, even though all the parts catalogs stated it would fit. I bought a Mobil 1 synthetic filter instead. All good now.
Had to go and get a different filter however. The Bosch Premium filter did not fit, even though all the parts catalogs stated it would fit. I bought a Mobil 1 synthetic filter instead. All good now.
#4
Reset the MM test drove it, all good. While test driving, checked the mail and received a coupon for a discount oil change for $30.
#5
First DIY oil change for my Fit
Performed the first DIY oil change this weekend on my '09 Fit. 26,300 miles @ 10% oil life and A 12 on the MM. I'm used to doing my own, so this wasn't any big deal, but there were a few fun discoveries.
Got raped at the DS for parts (my fault, shoulda' ordered these ahead online):
Oil filter $10.55
Air filter $32.83
Cabin filter $39.33
Mobil 1 0W-20 4 qts @ $6.85 qt Wal Mart
I also decided to change the ATF, since I've been got the AT hydraulic growling noise when cold (consensus seems to believe it's accumulators in the trans) many others are aware of.
More money:
Honda ATF @ 8.95/qt 3 qts
Drain plug crush washer $2.93 (oil drain washer was only .30!) Whatever.
Engine drain plug and filter are intelligently located. I use a click torque wrench @ 29 ft/lbs. The GE8 sump is an aluminum casting, no steel pan, and being part of the engine block, if you botch it and wipe out the threads, you are for sure SCREWED.
Found the engine air filter surprisingly dirty at the young mileage of 26,300. Looked like mostly large-particle road dust/dirt finding it's way into the engine bay. Noticing where the oval snorkel inhales thru, over near the brake fluid reservoir, I got an idea which I'll try.....slip a small thin white ankle sock over the plastic oval to try and pre-filter a lot of the larger road dirt particles before they get sucked in and prematurely dirty the AF. It can easily be checked every few months/cleaned off. Shouldn't pose any major restriction loss. Considered doing a K&N, but have heard the MAF sensor, which is dead ahead of the filter plenum, is quite sensitive to oil contamination. Tried starting up w/o the filter before closing the airbox to listen to the airflow for a moment. Doesn't like that at all. Having no airflow across the MAF with the box open, computer goes crazy and won't run hardly at all and dies. Note to self....don't do that!
Since driving about 100 miles since service, seems to be doing slightly better on the MM, almost 37 indicated on the highway at 70. Clean AF and 0W-20 can't hurt. Unfortunately, despite fresh ATF, the trans shift growl noise remains. Have to look into this at some point while still under warranty. Fortunately doesn't affect drivability or power delivery. So we're good to go until 10% again next time!
Got raped at the DS for parts (my fault, shoulda' ordered these ahead online):
Oil filter $10.55
Air filter $32.83
Cabin filter $39.33
Mobil 1 0W-20 4 qts @ $6.85 qt Wal Mart
I also decided to change the ATF, since I've been got the AT hydraulic growling noise when cold (consensus seems to believe it's accumulators in the trans) many others are aware of.
More money:
Honda ATF @ 8.95/qt 3 qts
Drain plug crush washer $2.93 (oil drain washer was only .30!) Whatever.
Engine drain plug and filter are intelligently located. I use a click torque wrench @ 29 ft/lbs. The GE8 sump is an aluminum casting, no steel pan, and being part of the engine block, if you botch it and wipe out the threads, you are for sure SCREWED.
Found the engine air filter surprisingly dirty at the young mileage of 26,300. Looked like mostly large-particle road dust/dirt finding it's way into the engine bay. Noticing where the oval snorkel inhales thru, over near the brake fluid reservoir, I got an idea which I'll try.....slip a small thin white ankle sock over the plastic oval to try and pre-filter a lot of the larger road dirt particles before they get sucked in and prematurely dirty the AF. It can easily be checked every few months/cleaned off. Shouldn't pose any major restriction loss. Considered doing a K&N, but have heard the MAF sensor, which is dead ahead of the filter plenum, is quite sensitive to oil contamination. Tried starting up w/o the filter before closing the airbox to listen to the airflow for a moment. Doesn't like that at all. Having no airflow across the MAF with the box open, computer goes crazy and won't run hardly at all and dies. Note to self....don't do that!
Since driving about 100 miles since service, seems to be doing slightly better on the MM, almost 37 indicated on the highway at 70. Clean AF and 0W-20 can't hurt. Unfortunately, despite fresh ATF, the trans shift growl noise remains. Have to look into this at some point while still under warranty. Fortunately doesn't affect drivability or power delivery. So we're good to go until 10% again next time!
#6
Congrats on the DIY oil change. Prices are in-line...
Not sure you need to be too concerned w/ the air filter. It's doing it's job. That 'snorkel" it designed to provide a rush of cool air to the ECU. Not sure a 'filter' on that will do anything positive.
Not sure you need to be too concerned w/ the air filter. It's doing it's job. That 'snorkel" it designed to provide a rush of cool air to the ECU. Not sure a 'filter' on that will do anything positive.
#7
I got hosed
Well, here's more like what I should have paid for my parts:
Cabin Filter $20.45 (18.88 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...de=scat&scat=5
Engine Air Filter $17.07 (save 15.76 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...de=scat&scat=6
Oil Filter $4.94 (5.64 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...e=scat&scat=58
Let's assume they'll charge me about $12 shipping. Adding this up, minus shipping I would have saved about $28, and still be getting OEM parts
Cabin Filter $20.45 (18.88 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...de=scat&scat=5
Engine Air Filter $17.07 (save 15.76 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...de=scat&scat=6
Oil Filter $4.94 (5.64 off)
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...e=scat&scat=58
Let's assume they'll charge me about $12 shipping. Adding this up, minus shipping I would have saved about $28, and still be getting OEM parts
#8
I am gearing up for oil change number two. 17,800 miles on the car and showing 30% (since about 17,200 miles). Going to do the same as the first one with Mobile 1 0W-20 and a Purolator Pure One. I am considering a fumoto vlave but with 9,000 mi oil canges I am not sure if it is worth it.
Anyone found a good quick way to get the fit off the ground? My Subaru was high enough to crawl under, my Civic had a jack up point right under the front bumper. Whoever thought that putting the front jack up point that far back on the fit needs to be slapped upside the head.
Anyone found a good quick way to get the fit off the ground? My Subaru was high enough to crawl under, my Civic had a jack up point right under the front bumper. Whoever thought that putting the front jack up point that far back on the fit needs to be slapped upside the head.
#10
Sorry for the noobie-ness guys. I changed my oil and totally forgot about the filter.. Now I need to re-purchase oil and also change the filter (obviously). The part where I'm thrown off is there are so many different filters! I have no idea which one 'fits' my fit (GE8). I'm just sad I wasted precious Mobil 1 Synthetic by forgetting the damn filter T-T" PLEASE HELP!!
PM or reply appreciated!
PM or reply appreciated!
#11
Sorry for the noobie-ness guys. I changed my oil and totally forgot about the filter.. Now I need to re-purchase oil and also change the filter (obviously). The part where I'm thrown off is there are so many different filters! I have no idea which one 'fits' my fit (GE8). I'm just sad I wasted precious Mobil 1 Synthetic by forgetting the damn filter T-T" PLEASE HELP!!
PM or reply appreciated!
PM or reply appreciated!
#13
Sorry for the noobie-ness guys. I changed my oil and totally forgot about the filter.. Now I need to re-purchase oil and also change the filter (obviously). The part where I'm thrown off is there are so many different filters! I have no idea which one 'fits' my fit (GE8). I'm just sad I wasted precious Mobil 1 Synthetic by forgetting the damn filter T-T" PLEASE HELP!!
PM or reply appreciated!
PM or reply appreciated!
If at all possible I try to use Honda filters only, but i'll use Mobil 1 filters if the parts department is closed. Are you not sure on the part number or something? The dealership or auto parts store will help you get the right one.
Don't worry, you're fine.
#14
No biggie, we've all had our brain farts, moi' included!
You'll only lose a pint or so when you change the filter, the rest is still fresh & clean in the pan. The filter's anti-drainback rubber diaphragm prevents it from going the wrong way.
I like to stick with the OEM Honda filter, Mobil 1 would be 2nd choice, in a pinch I'd Fram it (but not for long!).
You'll only lose a pint or so when you change the filter, the rest is still fresh & clean in the pan. The filter's anti-drainback rubber diaphragm prevents it from going the wrong way.
I like to stick with the OEM Honda filter, Mobil 1 would be 2nd choice, in a pinch I'd Fram it (but not for long!).
#18
crisis averted!
Thanks for the replies! now i can rest easy. thanks for the support guys xD if I happen to have extra time, I'll get around to changing it again soon! Oh I also know that there is a special tool required to remove the oil filter, could anyone possibly link what the tool is? I have absolutely no clue..
#19
Thanks for the replies! now i can rest easy. thanks for the support guys xD if I happen to have extra time, I'll get around to changing it again soon! Oh I also know that there is a special tool required to remove the oil filter, could anyone possibly link what the tool is? I have absolutely no clue..
Buy Lisle Oil Wrench Import 2-1/2 LIS63600 at Advance Auto Parts=#
You can also get these, but on some cars they're a pain to use because you have to stick your hand in the bay with the tool. Would be fine for a Fit though since the filter is pretty easy to get to.
Buy Performance Tools Standard Filter Wrench W54050 at Advance Auto Parts_____
Or just use a screwdriver and hammer it through the filter and spin it off.
#20
thanks!
I like these the best, you just attach it to a rachet/extension
Buy Lisle Oil Wrench Import 2-1/2 LIS63600 at Advance Auto Parts=#
You can also get these, but on some cars they're a pain to use because you have to stick your hand in the bay with the tool. Would be fine for a Fit though since the filter is pretty easy to get to.
Buy Performance Tools Standard Filter Wrench W54050 at Advance Auto Parts_____
Or just use a screwdriver and hammer it through the filter and spin it off.
Buy Lisle Oil Wrench Import 2-1/2 LIS63600 at Advance Auto Parts=#
You can also get these, but on some cars they're a pain to use because you have to stick your hand in the bay with the tool. Would be fine for a Fit though since the filter is pretty easy to get to.
Buy Performance Tools Standard Filter Wrench W54050 at Advance Auto Parts_____
Or just use a screwdriver and hammer it through the filter and spin it off.