Manual Trans fluid change DIY
#1
Manual Trans fluid change DIY
first off, sorry no pictures, but it's wicked easy.
alright... did this service myself. easier than changing the motor oil.
list-
2 quarts honda manual trans fluid. $7+ change each bottle at dealership
2 washers, 2 different sizes. 33 cents total i think, at dealership
1 3/8'' drive
1 1/2'' drive
1 17mm socket.
1 standard screw driver
transfer pump (mine is "multi-use" from harbor freight)
remove splash guard (1 tab push pin [you'll see where to apply the screw driver on the pushpin by locating " | |" on the pushpin] )
tuck it in to get access to the bolts and clearance for fluid to come out,
get the collection pan ready,
loosen 17mm fill bolt first, then remove drain bolt,
let it drain...it's going to get messy and pour onto the frame. *dumb design* it's like pissing on your own toilet seat.
at this time, replace washers with new ones. *make sure you get 2 different sizes* parts guy gave me 2 of the same size... that bastard. luckily he gave me 2 drain washers... fill bolt washer not THAT important.
get the pump ready, open the quarts...1st quart no prob, about half to 60% of the 2nd quart bottle was used.
What am I going to do with a 40% quart of trans fluid?! ugh... anywho fill till it leaks out of the fill hole.
screw on the fill bolt, replace splash guard...
Done.
i think the total was around $16 for the fluid and washers.
Going to a shop was going to be nearly triple that.
alright... did this service myself. easier than changing the motor oil.
list-
2 quarts honda manual trans fluid. $7+ change each bottle at dealership
2 washers, 2 different sizes. 33 cents total i think, at dealership
1 3/8'' drive
1 1/2'' drive
1 17mm socket.
1 standard screw driver
transfer pump (mine is "multi-use" from harbor freight)
remove splash guard (1 tab push pin [you'll see where to apply the screw driver on the pushpin by locating " | |" on the pushpin] )
tuck it in to get access to the bolts and clearance for fluid to come out,
get the collection pan ready,
loosen 17mm fill bolt first, then remove drain bolt,
let it drain...it's going to get messy and pour onto the frame. *dumb design* it's like pissing on your own toilet seat.
at this time, replace washers with new ones. *make sure you get 2 different sizes* parts guy gave me 2 of the same size... that bastard. luckily he gave me 2 drain washers... fill bolt washer not THAT important.
get the pump ready, open the quarts...1st quart no prob, about half to 60% of the 2nd quart bottle was used.
What am I going to do with a 40% quart of trans fluid?! ugh... anywho fill till it leaks out of the fill hole.
screw on the fill bolt, replace splash guard...
Done.
i think the total was around $16 for the fluid and washers.
Going to a shop was going to be nearly triple that.
Last edited by mole177; 02-12-2011 at 03:27 AM.
#2
After thoughts, shifts are smoother, especially movement at 1st.
going into 2nd is smoother.
fluid was gray/dark coming out (21k miles)...fresh fluid is somewhat clear. I might do it again after my next oil change.
as for anyone curious, the mileage may seem low, but i live in mountain/hilly areas. as other from that, the tach reaches 4.5k and above; at least a couple times i drive that day, but rarely 6.5k.
going into 2nd is smoother.
fluid was gray/dark coming out (21k miles)...fresh fluid is somewhat clear. I might do it again after my next oil change.
as for anyone curious, the mileage may seem low, but i live in mountain/hilly areas. as other from that, the tach reaches 4.5k and above; at least a couple times i drive that day, but rarely 6.5k.
Last edited by mole177; 02-12-2011 at 03:41 AM.
#4
yeah... i'm too big to wiggle under the car w/o lifting it.
if you're going to jack the car, go for the passenger side so the fluid pours out easier.
Bolts are located facing driver's side.
if you're going to jack the car, go for the passenger side so the fluid pours out easier.
Bolts are located facing driver's side.
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