could be a silly question but I think I would like to replace my fuel filter to see if that helps some problems I am having with my 09 ssm(73k)

At bernardi parts I see there is a fuel filter set that goes about the fuel pump (probably a pain to replace) and a canister in the fuel line.


any pros or seasoned DIY'ers could direct me to the proper filter to replace? also if it hard to do?

i read somewhere that when I plan to change it I should pull the fuse for the fuel pump while the car is on to relieve fuel system pressure, but this was for a 2000 civic, can that work on the fit?

 

Inside top of the fuel tank. Not easily serviced

Item 3 in this diagram.

Part of B-4 in this explosion.

 

damn! I've been looking at other hondas where it is located right in the engine bay. having to drop the tank to replace a tank?!?!?

 

meant filter...still fried from black friday madness in NYC

 

you do know there's an edit button, right?

as for the fuel filter... take out the center console.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what problem(s) are you experiencing with your Fit, Santiad? My understanding is we really shouldn't have to mess with the fuel filters in these cars, especially not with only 73k. Of course there are always some exceptions.

 

Problems:

-25.6 avg mpg dropped 4mpg in a couple of weeks
-CEL lights (code p0171) that appeared random but then I purchased an ultraguage....

My short term fuel trims (which determine how long my injectors stay open) are in a very high range:

10-12 at idle can go to 26-30, sometime 40 for sec....when driving on the highway it generally goes lower 10-15...city driving usually brings up my Long term fuel trim and the CEL is programmed to go off once it hits 25, indicating a lean condition.

So essentially either too much air is getting in (vacuum leak) or there is something wrong with my fuel system...

I want to believe its a vacuum leak but I find that revving the engine to 2500 while watching the fuel trims does not produce a reliable and predictable drop. Its very random at this range.

I have carb cleaner and can try spraying it on hoses, but do not know where my vacuum hoses are and am concerned for my electrical connections.


if it isnt a vacuum leak them the pcv, egr,fuel filter and pump is are next in line followed by the injectors themselves.....I was thinking replacing the filter might be easier since it used to be accessible from the engine bay.....not sure on how to remove the center console....

 

here is a video I just uploaded ...along with everything I ,mentioned and probably the first thing I noticed a month ago was this weird sound

fit.3gp - YouTube

sounds louder towards the back of the engine....any ideas?

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak (the high pitched noise).

Carb cleaner is a strong solvent, I wouldn't be spraying that around anything except carburetors.

A fuel pressure test should determine if there's a problem without pulling the console and replacing the filter.

Since you had beaucoup work done by Honda in the last 6 months (?) centering around the MAF sensor and ignition systems, I'd recommend calling on them. They might have damaged a fitting.

 

so I'm bringing it to Honda tomorrow....last question before I go in:

do honda's track work done on cars between dealerships?

I would rather bring it to the Honda closer to home rather than the one that did the work a few months back....

 

They can, but I doubt they would warranty the work done by another dealership.

It might be something really simple in which case it might not matter, but chances are they'll charge you a diagnostic fee of at least $70 that might be avoided at the other place. Charm them. As I recall you paid a lot of money; your Fit should be running like a top.

 

At the dealership now scrambling to type this:

they want to replace the upper intake gasket and perform a valve adjustment (and replace a screw on the resonator box ) to a tune of $1195....

pay the $125 diagnostic and do it myself?

 

That would depend on your ability and access to shop manuals and tools (torque wrench). The intake manifold gasket is a $15 part.

If you have the ability and desire to learn it might be a good opportunity.

Me, I'd probably say thanks and get an estimate from an independent honda mechanic. Then negotiate with the dealer for a lower price and apply the $125 fee towards the repair. See who comes out best.

Edit: there is also a set of intake port gaskets that go between the manifold and the intake chamber. they're about $7 each (needs four). If Honda is clear on what needs replacing they're probably an easy replacement (maybe that's what they meant by "upper" as they're above the manifold gasket that goes against the block). Maybe you could sweet talk lyon[nightroad] into walking you through the steps.

 

edit edit: at how many miles was the LMS recall performed? Did you own it then? They would have done a valve adjustment and removed the intake chamber at that point. That's the only reason I can think of for damaged/bad gaskets. I'd talk to the service manager at least...

 

I did. I also called Honda and have a case manager looking into it. There were 2 times they removed the upper plenum (recall and later when they replaced all my coil packs, plugs and maf). I am arguing I probably would not be in this situation if they hadn't removeed it twice, or if they reseated the gaskets both times.

If honda fails to come through I will tackle this myself. All the gaskets come out to 30 bucks and some gasket sealer and a torque wrench would probably come in handy. This would be a first so any advice would be appreciated.

 

so Barry at Honda Customer Service spoke to me and admitted that even at 74k, gaskets shouldnt fail that soon...he called the dealership and afterwards the dealership called me:

I'm looking at a 50/50 situation where I would pay half the cost ($550 of $1100) for the new valve adjustment and gasket replacement

What do you all think? pay up or buy the parts ($100 for all gaskets, new pcv, and other little odds and ends from Bernardi), a torque wrench, and beg a pro here for advice?

shoot I would even paypal some cash to anyone who might be willing to share know-how and advice remotely...

as always your input is appreciated.

 

The valves shouldn't need adjusting either so this begs the question did Honda do it correctly after the LMSs were replaced? Is that $550 less the $125 diagnostic fee for an additional $425? More discussion may be in order with the customer service guy.

How are you fixed for a place to work on it, tools, etc. Adjusting the valves is almost an art (and requires feeler gauges). Do you have another ride in case you need to run to the parts counter while your car is torn apart? Having a copy of the shop manual (check ebay for electronic versions) before you take it apart is highly advisable. The $250 or so after paying for parts books and tools (that you might use again) for labor to get Honda to do it might be a better deal.

 

Valve adjustment on either the GD or GE should only take about 4 hours your first time through at a relaxed pace. Basically the tricky bit is adjusting the set screw and lock nut at the same time while flipping between feelers. Make sure the engine is COLD.

I would invest a couple bucks in an angled set of feelers, I got mine at O'Reilly's for something like $5. Make sure you get some gray rtv as well.

Once you get the rocker bridge off and you get a feel for turning the engine over and lining up the cylinders to TDC by the crank pulley bolt you'll realize it's not so bad. Just make sure to turn the crank only one way. If you pass your cylinder, do the full 720* and bring it back up.

Just take your time and inventory what you'll need before hand. Have a spec sheet handy. Also the lock nuts are 10mm, be gentle they strip easy. It's not quite an art, but a thousandth looser is better than too tight. Just flip back and forth with the gauges till there is slight drag and if it is too big for one and too small for the next you're obviously in between.

Take your time and don't stress. This is the sort of maintainence that on some bikes and old air cooled VWs had to be done damn near every 3k miles. I think even the Formula Ford Kent motor was this finicky if I recall.

 

DSM,
Whew! 'bout time....