Help with Transmission or Engine Noise
#21
I am also glad that I got a M/T Fit instead of an auto.
#22
Bumping this thread. Just wanted to say that I got my transmission fluid changed with ATF-DW-1 and I haven't heard the grind since. Makes sense now that I look back at it...started happening about a year after I bought the car, and progressively got worse from there. Now it drives like the day I bought it.
#23
Anyone else have experience fixing this? I have a 2009 A/T and it makes this same noise at low RPMs (~2000ish) usually when shifting from 2 to 3. The transmission fluid has been changed to DW-1 and it still continues. The transmission has no problem shifting, but the noise is concerning.
It doesn't happen consistently, which is why I'm hesitant to take it into the dealer since they'll probably charge me. It happens most often when I'm coasting to a red light that decides to turn green, so I accelerate and then in-between shifts it makes that scraping/grinding sound.
I have about 44,000 miles on the Fit and was planning on having this addressed with my next oil change, but if I can get it fixed sooner (hopefully under warranty) that would be great.
It doesn't happen consistently, which is why I'm hesitant to take it into the dealer since they'll probably charge me. It happens most often when I'm coasting to a red light that decides to turn green, so I accelerate and then in-between shifts it makes that scraping/grinding sound.
I have about 44,000 miles on the Fit and was planning on having this addressed with my next oil change, but if I can get it fixed sooner (hopefully under warranty) that would be great.
#25
Exact same grinding noise, you are not alone!
My '09 base Fit's auto trans has had the same grinding noise as everyone here is describing. Took me quite a while to find this group, but now I know it's not just an isolated issue for the Fit. Here's how mine goes:
Typically this will happen as the trans begins to shift from 2nd to 3rd, light-medium throttle, and happens most often when the engine/trans are cold. It varies from a quiet "squawk" to a loud, chattering grind sound, Usually louder when cold. Another way to describe is if you have ever heard how a hydraulic system may sound when the fluid is very cold, it can "grumble" or "growl" when pressure is applied, until the fluid has warmed up some. I haven't been able to get a clear sound clip of it happening yet, but hope to soon.
It doesn't affect how the car feels when it happens, i.e. doesn't cause a hesitation, slippage or bog. The car has 26,500 miles currently. Had the LMS recall done 4 months ago. Almost due for an oil change per the MM sending me an A 12 and the wrench symbol at 15% oil life left. Switching from dino oil to Mobil 1 0W-20.
As others have mentioned, I'll drain the ATF as well and put in Honda's latest fluid, can't hurt. Will monitor it and see if that clears up the problem.
Typically this will happen as the trans begins to shift from 2nd to 3rd, light-medium throttle, and happens most often when the engine/trans are cold. It varies from a quiet "squawk" to a loud, chattering grind sound, Usually louder when cold. Another way to describe is if you have ever heard how a hydraulic system may sound when the fluid is very cold, it can "grumble" or "growl" when pressure is applied, until the fluid has warmed up some. I haven't been able to get a clear sound clip of it happening yet, but hope to soon.
It doesn't affect how the car feels when it happens, i.e. doesn't cause a hesitation, slippage or bog. The car has 26,500 miles currently. Had the LMS recall done 4 months ago. Almost due for an oil change per the MM sending me an A 12 and the wrench symbol at 15% oil life left. Switching from dino oil to Mobil 1 0W-20.
As others have mentioned, I'll drain the ATF as well and put in Honda's latest fluid, can't hurt. Will monitor it and see if that clears up the problem.
#26
Well .. it sounds like transmission.. going from 2nd to third. i can make it grind when i leave the house going up a hill. it makes a grinding noise for about 1 second then changes into 3rd. I dont know much about cars but it seems like when im riding low rpms, going uphill most time, but also flat...it stuggles to catch 3rd, grinds some, then catches... i have not had my transmission serviced yet. its at 39,000k and is an 09 base automatic. if you find out whats going on reply... ill do the same
Engine cold, about a mile from the house. Stop, accelerate mildly up a slight incline. A leisurely shift from 2nd to 3rd and a noise occurs for less than a second. (more spirited acceleration at this stage and I haven't noticed it. That or the Fit's throaty roar drowns it out.)
At first I wasn't sure, it's almost inaudible. Radio and heater fan off it sounds almost like a heat shield vibrating. It emanates from the driver's side, i.e. area of transmission. It does it the once and then doesn't happen again for the course of a day. However there is no vibrating felt. Nor does the transmission seem to shift any differently than normal.
The only sound I've heard similar to this (besides a loose heat shield) is the ABS accumulator on another car pressuring up. It's kind of like a farting noise. You know what I mean.
My best guess is a pressure accumulator in the transmission either storing or releasing pressure. This diagram shows several.
As the transmission is cold, and the car is just starting out, it stands to reason the accumulator is being used. It may be the ambient temperature (40-50F?) and thicker fluid. It may be that the engine/transmission is just warm enough (cold light turned off) to start actuating the torque converter lock adding a few more steps to shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
Accumulators store hydraulic pressure by means of compressing some gas or spring loaded piston, and then releasing it when hydraulic pressure is needed, say to actuate clutches and gears going from 2nd to 3rd. Hydraulic pressure is by transmission fluid. Cold fluid will be a bit thicker.
I think I'll have transmission fluid changed (for the tasty new Honda standard fluid). I'll mention "accumulator pressurizing noise, 2nd to 3rd" when having it done so there's a record of it. I doubt there's a short term or long term issue. It's just a farting noise it makes sometimes when it's cold. I have the same problem.
Last edited by Steve244; 01-07-2012 at 01:22 PM.
#27
Guys, I have this exact problem when I got my 09 AT base model new. It happens most of the time of shifting from 1st to 2nd gear around 2000 rpm. Took in the dealer twice and they could not found anything. Following this thread, this seems to be a persistent problem of late model Fit (or other Honda) with auto trany. Does anybody know if Honda has a recall/fix for this, or they just let us searching for help randomly? Thanks for whom may come up with the first answer!!!!
#29
Ok, I am convinced for the tranny ATF change. Found this for the best price on the web who is a Honda factory part dealership:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Will be a project this weekend with a high hope to fix this noise!
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Will be a project this weekend with a high hope to fix this noise!
#30
Ok, I am convinced for the tranny ATF change. Found this for the best price on the web who is a Honda factory part dealership:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Will be a project this weekend with a high hope to fix this noise!
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Will be a project this weekend with a high hope to fix this noise!
Buy Honda Fit Accessories - Discount Genuine Honda Accessories
You'll at least have the opportunity to add on other maintenance items you may need for 1 shipping cost.
Plus, if you really want to flush out the fluid, you're only maybe changing at most 50% of the fluid with a drain/fill.
So you'll probably want at least enough for a couple drain/fills to satisfy your peace of mind.
#32
Instead of asking for advice about it, go to the dealership and hand them the keys. Tell the service advisor you just want it diagnosed for now not repaired. They will probably charge you like $50-100 if it doesnt get fixed at the dealership.
Whatever is wrong with that Fit, those guys at the dealerships have probably encountered it before.
There is a reason why Honda's transmissions have a drain plug instead of the conventional setup of numerous bolts to let the fluid out...the reason is Honda's transmissions require frequent drain&fills.
Whatever is wrong with that Fit, those guys at the dealerships have probably encountered it before.
There is a reason why Honda's transmissions have a drain plug instead of the conventional setup of numerous bolts to let the fluid out...the reason is Honda's transmissions require frequent drain&fills.
Last edited by SevereService; 01-12-2012 at 09:06 PM.
#33
Well, I think that this problem is extremely hard to detect because it would only happen in certain condition, such as the case of mine. It is a cold engine, just gets off the lot, just a bit below 2000RPM then shift from 1st to 2nd gear with a light gas paddle pressure. And, it does not happen all the time. I went to the dealer twice and they could not reproduce the noise. And I am sure most of us on the forum could have a variation of conditions preceding to the noise. Wish that Honda would monitor and/or what we wrote here. It is a full coverage of tech diagnosis book. Anyway, I am going to change my ATF since it will only help.
#35
There is only one Honda approved way to change out all of the Fit's AT fluid and that is the 4 times drain&fill. By the time you fill it up a fourth time, in theory, only 3% of the original fluid will be left.
Basically, only 2.5 quarts of ATF will come out by releasing the drain plug. You have to drain, fill, drive for 5-10 minutes then repeat.
If you plan on doing something like this then there are a lot of ways to screw up so take it slow. For example, filling up the trans without putting the drain plug on securely, driving off without filling the trans, putting in the wrong fluid, etc. Its also going to be a mess even if you are very careful.
If you have the dealership do it than it will probably cost about $200-300. I saw some coupons for it at $150.
Basically, only 2.5 quarts of ATF will come out by releasing the drain plug. You have to drain, fill, drive for 5-10 minutes then repeat.
If you plan on doing something like this then there are a lot of ways to screw up so take it slow. For example, filling up the trans without putting the drain plug on securely, driving off without filling the trans, putting in the wrong fluid, etc. Its also going to be a mess even if you are very careful.
If you have the dealership do it than it will probably cost about $200-300. I saw some coupons for it at $150.
#36
There is only one Honda approved way to change out all of the Fit's AT fluid and that is the 4 times drain&fill. By the time you fill it up a fourth time, in theory, only 3% of the original fluid will be left.
Basically, only 2.5 quarts of ATF will come out by releasing the drain plug. You have to drain, fill, drive for 5-10 minutes then repeat.
If you plan on doing something like this then there are a lot of ways to screw up so take it slow. For example, filling up the trans without putting the drain plug on securely, driving off without filling the trans, putting in the wrong fluid, etc. Its also going to be a mess even if you are very careful.
If you have the dealership do it than it will probably cost about $200-300. I saw some coupons for it at $150.
Basically, only 2.5 quarts of ATF will come out by releasing the drain plug. You have to drain, fill, drive for 5-10 minutes then repeat.
If you plan on doing something like this then there are a lot of ways to screw up so take it slow. For example, filling up the trans without putting the drain plug on securely, driving off without filling the trans, putting in the wrong fluid, etc. Its also going to be a mess even if you are very careful.
If you have the dealership do it than it will probably cost about $200-300. I saw some coupons for it at $150.
#37
On the bright side there is no shortage of $500 ATs out there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-HONDA-...item5ae2270912
#38
Instead of asking for advice about it, go to the dealership and hand them the keys. Tell the service advisor you just want it diagnosed for now not repaired. They will probably charge you like $50-100 if it doesnt get fixed at the dealership.
Whatever is wrong with that Fit, those guys at the dealerships have probably encountered it before.
There is a reason why Honda's transmissions have a drain plug instead of the conventional setup of numerous bolts to let the fluid out...the reason is Honda's transmissions require frequent drain&fills.
Whatever is wrong with that Fit, those guys at the dealerships have probably encountered it before.
There is a reason why Honda's transmissions have a drain plug instead of the conventional setup of numerous bolts to let the fluid out...the reason is Honda's transmissions require frequent drain&fills.
The reason there's a drain plug instead of a pan is there is no serviceable parts short of a rebuild. There is, however, an external in-line filter.
Honda's transmissions require a drain/fill somewhere beyond 60,000 miles (60,000 is the severe service point where the owner's manuals says to not go by the maintenance minder). This is not frequent.
I wish you chicken-littles would cease your noise about 7K, 15K or even 20K service intervals for the Fit's automatic transmission. You're scaring people into spending hundreds in unnecessary service.
I'd suggest to the casual reader, if you want to be totally anal about service, have a drain/fill every 30K instead of even the 60K service the Honda owner's manual requires for severe service. *
Anyone who thinks more frequent transmission service is advisable, should seek professional help. And not for their cars.
*full disclosure:
In partial response to the ninnies whining about Honda transmission quality, and the benefits to the newer DW-1 fluid. I pulled the trigger on a dealer drain/fill last week @ 35,000 for $108. Yes that's a ripoff to drain and add less than 3 quarts of fluid at a retail cost of $30.
The new fluid (at least the 42% solution of new fluid) seems to shift a little smoother; there is less lag between gears, including shifting from reverse to drive. Is this kinder to the transmission? Will it improve or worsen MPG? I don't know.
I noticed the phantom flushing noise once since the drain/fill (I'd been hearing it on a daily basis before, so maybe it's an improvement).
There may be an advantage to switching over to DW-1 fluid. I've yet to see a compelling reason to spend hundreds of dollars to have the dealer do it.
Since I'm partially OCD I'll continue to have the drain/fill done every 30K instead of when the MM suggests. By several accounts the MM may not suggest the first drain/fill until 120K miles which seems pointless. It's as if Honda expects the fluid to last the life of the transmission. And that's not very frequent either.
#39
If you dont want to do frequent changes than at least do this:
1) Put a few drops on a single sheet of paper towel. If the fluid does not spread out in 30 seconds than its time to change.
2) Next look at the fluid. Is it any other color besides light to dark red. If its any other color besides red, like brown or black, than its time to change. If the color is black you want to have a mechanic decide if it should be changed.
3) Smell it. Does it smell like burnt toast? If it does than time to change.
4) Look at the fluid level when the engine is warmed up fully. Is it between those two lines on the dipstick. If its not than correct immediately. If its low, you probably have a leak somewhere.
1) Put a few drops on a single sheet of paper towel. If the fluid does not spread out in 30 seconds than its time to change.
2) Next look at the fluid. Is it any other color besides light to dark red. If its any other color besides red, like brown or black, than its time to change. If the color is black you want to have a mechanic decide if it should be changed.
3) Smell it. Does it smell like burnt toast? If it does than time to change.
4) Look at the fluid level when the engine is warmed up fully. Is it between those two lines on the dipstick. If its not than correct immediately. If its low, you probably have a leak somewhere.
#40
If you dont want to do frequent changes than at least do this:
1) Put a few drops on a single sheet of paper towel. If the fluid does not spread out in 30 seconds than its time to change.
2) Next look at the fluid. Is it any other color besides light to dark red. If its any other color besides red, like brown or black, than its time to change. If the color is black you want to have a mechanic decide if it should be changed.
3) Smell it. Does it smell like burnt toast? If it does than time to change.
4) Look at the fluid level when the engine is warmed up fully. Is it between those two lines on the dipstick. If its not than correct immediately. If its low, you probably have a leak somewhere.
1) Put a few drops on a single sheet of paper towel. If the fluid does not spread out in 30 seconds than its time to change.
2) Next look at the fluid. Is it any other color besides light to dark red. If its any other color besides red, like brown or black, than its time to change. If the color is black you want to have a mechanic decide if it should be changed.
3) Smell it. Does it smell like burnt toast? If it does than time to change.
4) Look at the fluid level when the engine is warmed up fully. Is it between those two lines on the dipstick. If its not than correct immediately. If its low, you probably have a leak somewhere.
What kind of paper towels? Bounty or the cheap kind? (I'm very cheap, or I probably would have sprung for a Porsche at this juncture of my life).
Checking the fluid level is a good idea (and it's even suggested in the owner's manual, the one with 60,000 mile first transmission service under the severe service guidlines).