Hey boys! So last night I was greeted with a christmas tree dashboard lol


took to go get codes read and looks like i was running a p0171, which relates to air fuel and running lean. Can't wait for my new pcv hose to arrive nxt week so i can go back to fun noises and test out the breather side.

My guess is that the trev on the pcv side was pulling in extra air cause of vaccuum and making the mixture of air fuel in the cylinder heads too lean, which would explain the loss of pops and rougher idle. (Which i do agree its like when i turn my AC on back when my system was normal but now its like that with no AC on)

 

Oh yea I forgot to mention my rough idle was after I put trev on the pcv side. And my car generally is loud and pops due to my free flowing exhaust setup, res delete and bisimoto, so any change in sound i can easily detect due to this.

 

Way sorry to hear that, man. keep us informed. no lights or issues on the breather side.
To Cycling, still waiting for the pressure gauge to show up. Following its arrival I'll do my best to duplicate your tests.

 

Appriciate the concern, its no big deal, just take it easy until new pcv tube comes in the mail in about 2 weeks😅

 

3/8 inch fuel line or vacuum hose will work and should cost you about $2-4. Then put the factory stuff on when it arrives.

 

That worked!! Thanks!! My exhaust crackles and power is back lol, when my new pcv tube comes in I will prob use the 3/8 tube to attach trev to the breather side 😁

 

Sorry cycling, I've been an odd kind of sick. Got a number of things to rap about with the doc come the 15th.
I've got the gauge and a fair amount of line. Did read a full, sizeable article on the functions of the pcv system. Based on my findings the primary functions of this device should be exactly what we've noted thus far. It stated quite plainly that the pcv system is the primary source of intake at idle. Suppose i'll test that too by simply plugging the pcv hose when the car is idling to see what happens. Anyways, K.I.S.S.

With that in mind, ensuring that air is only being forced out at idle/when dropping rpms changing gears, it should improve the consistency of the engine's intake at those points. So, smoother idle, smoother transition when releasing the throttle. I'd say that means the butt dyno aint placebo. I'll do the little tests as soon as can.

P.S. its killin me seeing the forum have nothin new. Somebody break somethin' already.

EDIT: That means we shouldnt expect improved fuel economy. If anything, the opposite. Potential for a little more power of the line and better times thanks to improved shifting. Should make the engine happier too.

 

I am currently leaving it on the car and looking at this as long term fuel economy testing. I may get time and motivation to do more "performance" testing, but we will see. We are ramping up for bicycle race season, which means I have to locate a ton of gear and tools and junk and make sure it fits in the Fit like life size Tetris.

My current opinion is that both 0-60 runs where I had the valve set to max vacuum resulted in one tenth of a second slower times. All runs were from the same place and almost back to back.

More on my current opinion. When not using the T-rev, the gauge I am using shows the smallest amount more pressure compared to the gauge resting on the bench. Adding the T-rev and having the vacuum set at as little as possible, get me just below the resting gauge position. My curiosity is to see if the car is happier with the smallest amount of vacuum compared to the stock, very small amount of pressure.

The gauge is not accurate enough to show that what I am talking about is likely only a few tenths on this low mileage GK engine.

My first long trip was Friday evening and about 150 miles. I was averaging over 40 on the dash readout, which is very rare for me when I have 450 pounds inside the trailer hitch that I am sure causes some air turbulence. The tank ended up great, but a few things made it hard to tell and pulled the mileage down. I have been too busy to even compare thoughts versus where my fuelly app numbers ended up.

Something to chew on! Enjoy!

 

anyone got up close pics of how they ran a hose from the crank case, into the t rev?

 

I'm late to teh party boys ... but.... its finally on!

I tightened everything, as soon as I took the thing out of the box with the assumption that the people who make these things dont care / dont tighten things enough. I may have over did the spring/relief ... and over tightening things too much, may have prevented much needed flow (as Cycling Fit indicated with his drawing with the GREEN vertical line, post #30). Will loosen the spring near the filter, and report back with my impressions

(One thing is for sure, I feel like we all need that same vaccum gauge that CyclingFit is running, so we can know FOR SURE what is happening)

 

Nice stuff! Also thanks for dusting this topic off. Been lost in the sauce n havent followed up on using my gauge.
I read extensively on the theory behind PCV systems and am more than a little confident that our commentary thus far has accurately described the effects of this device. I'll hit this asbestos i can.

The T-REV fits into that second pcv hose (which formerly had no valve) and does the same as a regular valve, but better, hence the nickname "PCV 2.0".
The air filter/intake on the unit gives the engine something healthy to try and suck back in, leaving the car's intake alone to suck out the bad stuff. But wait, theres more! Its reed helps stave off turbulence inherent to gas escaping a churning engine block.
Theres some fancy science behind the specifics of the design, but the end result is super quick and smooth evacuation of the block, which is communicated to the driver as significantly less resistance when you suddenly drop throttle. I dont know if this would be noticeable for drivetrains besides manual, but its benefits should be universal.
I can now say with upmost confidence that my car transitions smoothly to low rpms when i stamp down on the clutch pedal. It may also be said then that the engine idles better due to smooth, efficient evacuation and somewhat cleaner intake air. This can be recognized as a lower idle, although I think the ECU/ECM might compensate and bring the idle back up.

But hey, its all speculation.

Heres my waaay ghetto setup.

You can clearly see how uncertain I was of this chingaderas.

Think im gonna delete these hardlines and substitute with rubbers. I could then route the hoses how I want.

 

i'm re-mounting the t-rev, relocating it to the rightmost bolt on the intake manifold. Gonna try and make it look clean. As you can plainly see, this is kinked as hell, which is alright since it was a practice run. I cant seem to identify a tool capable of making the shown offset there. Bend to bend is about 1.5", and this is 3/8 tube.
I could supplement this in copper with some burn-in fittings, plug and play, but I'm not so sure copper fittings are available for the 7/16 line going from the valve cover to the chingas..

Already posted this up in the general automotive section, but I wanted to hear from you guys. If I can get this simple stupid, then I could send a couple out to you guys.

 

Mine is epman trev,, connected to pcv to intake manifold,, it is an intake manifold breather when tb closes air now enters this breather to aid the pistons move freely,, engine braking will be reduced as the breather reduces pressure in the engine and also leans afr thus engine will be a bit hotter when tb is closed

 

This device does not make sense.
It's supposed to reduce pumping losses by creating vacuum in the crankcase.

But this vacuum created actually will :
1 - Pull more blowby gas into the crank case
2 - exert a negative pressure on the pistons on the exhaust and compression stroke thereby creating pumping loss

Am I missing something here? Seems like snake oil to me

 

The valve releases blowby not pull and be sucked by the intake manifold or to be released to the atmosphere via breather end. When tb closes at idle,, negative pressure is formed by the moving pistons creating engine brake as it wants to move but no air is available but becuase the valve has breather,,air to allow piston to move freely is supplied by the breather, at idle free moving pistons grants you faster launch, at launch extra air is available for instant power,, coasting at high speed is more efficient as there is less engine braking and pistons moves freely as the breather helps air into the engine while coasting, pumping loses isnt a factor as while your on drive and coasting the engine is spun by the wheels and other factors that causes pumping losses cant negate a fast spining wheel of the car

 

I have to believe js racing will not make a snake oil device as they are known brand,, i have to believe also the proof they showed that from 10 pressure from the manometer they used before installation,, it became 0 after installation. Mine is epman and its just cheap and under observation of theres benefits to it, ps. Epman breather sucks air noisily. There is 2 more company that made this,, one is workman engineering pro charger ii

 

per the diagram, it should allow crank case pressure to vent to intake and not allow it back in

 

That's the part i have trouble with.

If it doesn't allow flow back means it's creating negative pressure in the crankcase. The PCV alve also functions as a check valve and doesn't allow flow back into the crankcase. You now have a crankcase with negative pressure building up and therefore creating pumping losses instead of relieving it.

 

I don't have much, if anything, to say about the product... but I'm curious.

Despite the diagram showing the actions of a piston, our engines have four cylinders, all in something like a 90 degree phase through the crank. Meaning, that aside from when they are at top or bottom, there are always two moving up countered by two moving down. And since all four pistons share the crank case, it basically means air is shuffling back and forth.

Now, blow-by obviously creates positive pressure. And if that diagram is to be believed, so too does "reverse" air through the PCV. But that is only based on the principle that the air in motion through the intake system is blocked by the now closed throttle body and the air BEHIND it is pushing it in through the PCV. Not by some force in the crank case "sucking" it in, right?

So, how does it generate negative pressure?

 

cycling fit did mention in post 30, too much neg pressure would be a bad thing.

if you have some time, check out his youtube vids, very little impact (assuming his gauge setup is legit) was felt in terms of neg pressure:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1423585