Serpentine belt replacement
#2
There isn't really a whole lot.
Minimum tools required... 19mm socket w/ratchet or 19mm wrench (go with wrench).
Method #1:
- open hood, reach down with wrench and place it on the belt tensioner.
- once wrench is on, lift wrench so the belt is loose
- quickly unhook the belt from any one thing it's running around (like the alternator), then you can lower the wrench and continue removing the belt.
- attempt to replace the old belt with a new one (run it around all but alternator or whatever one thing you pick).
- lift wrench, move belt to hook on alternator, lower and remove wrench... done.
The issue with that method is... you might have a little difficulty getting it around the crank and flywheel at the bottom. I'm used to it and my arms are fairly thin so I can do it from the top of the engine bay.
Method #2... requires jack and stands/ramps. At this point, you might as well enlist the aid of another person. One to move the belt tensioner while you remove the old belt and then when you put the new one on. You're lifting the car so that you can more easily access the crank and flywheel... but the belt still has to be partially hooked onto or squeezed between something up top, otherwise it'll just fall off.
Minimum tools required... 19mm socket w/ratchet or 19mm wrench (go with wrench).
Method #1:
- open hood, reach down with wrench and place it on the belt tensioner.
- once wrench is on, lift wrench so the belt is loose
- quickly unhook the belt from any one thing it's running around (like the alternator), then you can lower the wrench and continue removing the belt.
- attempt to replace the old belt with a new one (run it around all but alternator or whatever one thing you pick).
- lift wrench, move belt to hook on alternator, lower and remove wrench... done.
The issue with that method is... you might have a little difficulty getting it around the crank and flywheel at the bottom. I'm used to it and my arms are fairly thin so I can do it from the top of the engine bay.
Method #2... requires jack and stands/ramps. At this point, you might as well enlist the aid of another person. One to move the belt tensioner while you remove the old belt and then when you put the new one on. You're lifting the car so that you can more easily access the crank and flywheel... but the belt still has to be partially hooked onto or squeezed between something up top, otherwise it'll just fall off.
Last edited by Goobers; 07-20-2018 at 02:38 PM.
#3
Nice description Goobers!
I did my Mom's '11 Sport and had her help. She was on top and I passed the belt from the bottom to her to hold. I'm sure there's a way to do alone, but I couldn't squeeze my arm down from the top and don't have long enough arms to reach the top from the bottom.
I did my Mom's '11 Sport and had her help. She was on top and I passed the belt from the bottom to her to hold. I'm sure there's a way to do alone, but I couldn't squeeze my arm down from the top and don't have long enough arms to reach the top from the bottom.
#6
I just did mine without an extra person. I lifted the belt tensioner up and out of the way with a ratchet strap around the 19mm bolt and up to a ceiling joist of the garage. The old belt came off easily.
I had to start the new belt around the smooth pulley first. Then around the bottom pulleys using jack stands to get underneath. Then back up top to get the belt under the tensioner. Then around the alternator last. I had work for a while to get that last bit of belt around the alternator pulley.
Total time was about an hour.
I had to start the new belt around the smooth pulley first. Then around the bottom pulleys using jack stands to get underneath. Then back up top to get the belt under the tensioner. Then around the alternator last. I had work for a while to get that last bit of belt around the alternator pulley.
Total time was about an hour.
#8
Did it start off as black and turn brown or was it brown to begin with? If it turned brown, it could either just be dirty or bleached out. Or, depending on the miles, long past the time it needed replacing.
If it was brown to begin with, then maybe it was replaced and the person just used a brand that has them in that color.
#9
The old belt I took off was brown in color and was the original belt. I am the original owner of the Fit. The replacement belt is black.
i am guessing the original belt was black when it was put on and slowly turned brown with age.
i am guessing the original belt was black when it was put on and slowly turned brown with age.
#10
#11
"Most" belts are black...
Did it start off as black and turn brown or was it brown to begin with? If it turned brown, it could either just be dirty or bleached out. Or, depending on the miles, long past the time it needed replacing.
If it was brown to begin with, then maybe it was replaced and the person just used a brand that has them in that color.
Did it start off as black and turn brown or was it brown to begin with? If it turned brown, it could either just be dirty or bleached out. Or, depending on the miles, long past the time it needed replacing.
If it was brown to begin with, then maybe it was replaced and the person just used a brand that has them in that color.
#12
Will I did my spark plugs and ignition coils, so belt on my 09 is the next major thing on my list. Also got to change the battery, but that is easy by comparison.
Anyone have a preferred belt brand?
Also I got this pic from youtube. It shows all the pulleys (from the bottom) for an 09 Fit and how to loosen the belt.
As stated it can be loosened from the top. Goobers method one.
#14
I have honestly no idea what you mean.
#15
He means to put the belt on the ribbed pulleys first and then slide it on the smooth tensioner pulley last.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.
#16
He means to put the belt on the ribbed pulleys first and then slide it on the smooth tensioner pulley last.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.
#17
All the pulleys from the alternator to the waterpump, to the crankshaft has lips on them to prevent the serpentine belt from slipping off of them. The only pulley that doesn't have lips is the tensioner pulley. It is easy to get the belt on all the other pulleys and put the belt on the tensioner pulley last.
#18
After changing belt did you hear any noise when your fan came on? That's my problem! Changed the belt today and now when fan comes on i hear a clicking/tapping sound. It sorta goes away after car is warmed up. And goes away when fan isn't running. Any suggestions?
#19
After changing belt did you hear any noise when your fan came on? That's my problem! Changed the belt today and now when fan comes on i hear a clicking/tapping sound. It sorta goes away after car is warmed up. And goes away when fan isn't running. Any suggestions?
Here is what I wrote in my maintenance log:
-->10/27/2018 Installed the serpentine belt (Bando 5PK1140 from amazon, made in usa, though I thought it a japan part). Total pain. Used a 19 mm wrench to loosen the belt tensioner and slip it off the alternator. It took a lot of force to loosen the tensioner and it was tough to get enough leverage with a relatively short 19mm thinner wrench. A socket would not fit. I figured out how the new belt went on easy enough, though took some cuts to the hand to fit in there. Light was a constant problem also, with no room to put the light and work. Head lamp may have helped here, but it would have to be bright, not a cheap one. I just about had the belt the first time, then I just didn't have enough room with the alternator and that wrench was really hard to move and hold in place. The ratchet strap the person on the forums used would have helped, but it would have also made it harder to move around. So the entire belt fell off and I had to start from square one. Was really careful the second time and got it after some shenanigans with the alternator and under it with the weird way the belt twists around. The old belt was all brown and thinner than the new one. It wasn't as stretchy with some sort of dry rot. It didn't appear to have any fraying though. My guess is it wasn't the factory belt, but it could have been. I would say it is at least 10 to 20 thousand miles old. 99k miles seems unlikely, but I don't know.
#20
He means to put the belt on the ribbed pulleys first and then slide it on the smooth tensioner pulley last.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.
That is generally a good plan. Wrap the belt around the ribbed pulleys first and then pick a smooth pulley (where the backside of the belt engages) to do last. The tensioner pulley on the Fit is smooth and it moves, so it's a natural to be the last one.