400k+ '09 Fit "build" thread
#141
Went to Toronto to hang with a few friends that live there. Of course this thing came with me.
Did some stuff to it while I had the time and space; such as a stainless steel clutch line, replaced an ABS sensor that needed to replaced for over a year, an oil change, and got some cool wheels too.
The wheels that I got are Canadian market Fit LX wheels, which resemble 8th-generation Civic wheels. The US market did not get these and my friend needed these out the garage, so they came home with me. There was only three, so I sourced a fourth on the way home.
Mileage is currently 400 shy of 510k.
Did some stuff to it while I had the time and space; such as a stainless steel clutch line, replaced an ABS sensor that needed to replaced for over a year, an oil change, and got some cool wheels too.
The wheels that I got are Canadian market Fit LX wheels, which resemble 8th-generation Civic wheels. The US market did not get these and my friend needed these out the garage, so they came home with me. There was only three, so I sourced a fourth on the way home.
Mileage is currently 400 shy of 510k.
#144
Thanks guys!
Called up a buddy of mine at a shop he works at and squeezed me in so I can mount my tires on the wheels. Planning on making my steelies dedicated winter wheels.
These things are growing on me!
Called up a buddy of mine at a shop he works at and squeezed me in so I can mount my tires on the wheels. Planning on making my steelies dedicated winter wheels.
These things are growing on me!
#146
I LOVE this thread... I have 185k mi on my 2007 Fit, and plan on NEVER selling it. I'm running into several people who just take care of their car and get mega mileage. And along the way, I'm doing a few "improvements" here and there for fun and interest. But your car's story is inspirational. Keep up the posts, thanks!
#147
What fluids are you putting in this gal? Plan on running Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid and Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 with a PurolatorONE filter, but find myself wondering if hunting down Honda coolant and DW-1 AT fluid is worth it...
#148
It's only a few dollars more for the Honda brand fluid, and personally, I've had such great longevity from the OEM equipments on the car with parts lasting way longer then I ever anticipated, that to me their significant value ultimately is money and time savings, which I believe is in part to using Honda's recommended specification fluids. I also understand from Honda that the blue coolant and transmission fluids are specifically formulated for that car.
Last edited by seattleguy; 07-30-2019 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Misspelling
#149
It's only a few dollars more for the Honda brand fluid, and personally, I've had such great longevity from the OEM equipments on the car with parts lasting way longer then I ever anticipated, that to me their significant value ultimately is money and time savings, which I believe is in part to using Honda's recommended specification fluids. I also understand from Honda that the blue coolant and transmission fluids are specifically formulated for that car.
Any online sources for Honda oil that I don't have to pay an arm and a leg shipping for? I think the one thing I can't waiver on is the oil filter. Supposedly the Honda one made by Fram, according to BITOG forums.
#150
I LOVE this thread... I have 185k mi on my 2007 Fit, and plan on NEVER selling it. I'm running into several people who just take care of their car and get mega mileage. And along the way, I'm doing a few "improvements" here and there for fun and interest. But your car's story is inspirational. Keep up the posts, thanks!
Only the A02 ones are made by Fram. Do some digging, you can find other OEM Honda ones that aren't Fram made.
#151
Thanks, definitely keep your '07! I'm trying to do the same thing with improving mine as I go through my Fit. It really keeps me busy and makes sure I don't get bored.
Oil is Shell Rotella 5W-40 with OEM Filtech (15400-PLM-A01) filter, trans fluid is OEM Honda MTF, brake fluid is ATE Typ 200, and running OEM Honda coolant.
Only the A02 ones are made by Fram. Do some digging, you can find other OEM Honda ones that aren't Fram made.
Oil is Shell Rotella 5W-40 with OEM Filtech (15400-PLM-A01) filter, trans fluid is OEM Honda MTF, brake fluid is ATE Typ 200, and running OEM Honda coolant.
Only the A02 ones are made by Fram. Do some digging, you can find other OEM Honda ones that aren't Fram made.
I'm going to buy some A01's in bulk! Thanks!
Any reasons you went with ATE Typ 200? Do a lot of mountain driving? We do intend to take this car on plenty of road trips, including camping, through the desert, up to Canada, etc. Wondering if I should opt for the ATE and heavier oil as well. Though I'd think if I'm doing mostly city and light interstate trips, sticking with 0W or 5W might be best.
And coolant - Flush interval?
Again, I know people have experiences up and down the gamut, but again – you're kind of a unicorn.
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-31-2019 at 12:40 AM.
#152
Thanks! I did find another post of yours stating 5W-40, and you mentioned it's because you had good experience with that oil in previous vehicles. Did the PO run conventional or synthetic? I hear a lot of folks say "Don't go synthetic if the PO ran conventional!" and "You can switch between conventional and synthetic so long as you run the same weight!" I'd rather hear what someone has to say that has over 500,000 miles on their vehicle and knows the PO.
I'm going to buy some A01's in bulk! Thanks!
Any reasons you went with ATE Typ 200? Do a lot of mountain driving? We do intend to take this car on plenty of road trips, including camping, through the desert, up to Canada, etc. Wondering if I should opt for the ATE and heavier oil as well. Though I'd think if I'm doing mostly city and light interstate trips, sticking with 0W or 5W might be best.
And coolant - Flush interval?
Again, I know people have experiences up and down the gamut, but again – you're kind of a unicorn.
I'm going to buy some A01's in bulk! Thanks!
Any reasons you went with ATE Typ 200? Do a lot of mountain driving? We do intend to take this car on plenty of road trips, including camping, through the desert, up to Canada, etc. Wondering if I should opt for the ATE and heavier oil as well. Though I'd think if I'm doing mostly city and light interstate trips, sticking with 0W or 5W might be best.
And coolant - Flush interval?
Again, I know people have experiences up and down the gamut, but again – you're kind of a unicorn.
The reason I went with the ATE Typ 200 because it's cheaper than running the equivalent Motul fluid. I've seen many higher end European shops and dealers run it, too. I don't do a lot of mountain driving although I do a fair bit of spirited runs on very hilly back roads. When I drove up Mount Washington in New Hampshire, the fluid did a good job and didn't give me grief through the rest of my road trip (DE, NH, VT, Montreal, DE) I do late brake a lot as well as the occasional 80 to 40 mph heavy braking on the highway because sometimes people on I-95 like to slow down for no reason. As far as changing out old fluid for new fluid, I've been making it a habit to at least do it once a year and/or every time I change the pads, depending on what I've been putting the car through.
LOL coolant hasn't been changed since 196k or so, and that was maybe around 2011-2012? I have the invoice for that one. Occasionally I check the overflow tank and fill it when necessary. It'll be changed out soon when I have the water pump, thermostat, and hoses switched out, which are all original by the way.
Last edited by julianachos; 07-31-2019 at 01:21 AM.
#153
Hmm. I'm considering running synthetic. The PO's "are pretty sure it was synthetic", and the oil is somewhat amber in color, so I'm hoping so. I've thought about doing 0W-20, but unsure of any noticeable advantage that might have. It's the same cost as 5W-20 also.
I'll definitely run the ATE – drivers here in the Seattle area don't really understand zipper merging, proper lane usage, etc. One bottle for a bleed and change?
I'll definitely run the ATE – drivers here in the Seattle area don't really understand zipper merging, proper lane usage, etc. One bottle for a bleed and change?
#154
Hmm. I'm considering running synthetic. The PO's "are pretty sure it was synthetic", and the oil is somewhat amber in color, so I'm hoping so. I've thought about doing 0W-20, but unsure of any noticeable advantage that might have. It's the same cost as 5W-20 also.
I'll definitely run the ATE – drivers here in the Seattle area don't really understand zipper merging, proper lane usage, etc. One bottle for a bleed and change?
I'll definitely run the ATE – drivers here in the Seattle area don't really understand zipper merging, proper lane usage, etc. One bottle for a bleed and change?
The Typ 200 comes in a one liter bottle. I can't remember how much I go through with a change and bleed as I always have at least two cans of the stuff on me.
Last edited by julianachos; 07-31-2019 at 01:41 AM. Reason: It's late, I can't spell.
#155
I'm almost positive the L15 wouldn't be that sensitive to a change, but don't quote me on that. I'm sure my Miata hasn't been running synthetic for quite some time and now it does. Who knows what weight that thing has ran before. Your results may vary.
The Typ 200 comes in a one liter bottle. I can't remember how much I go through with a change and bleed as I always have at least two cans of the stuff on me.
The Typ 200 comes in a one liter bottle. I can't remember how much I go through with a change and bleed as I always have at least two cans of the stuff on me.
Do you have any comments on the Rotella 5W-40 and why you run it?
#156
Cheapest (reputable branded) synthetic you can get at Walmart and out of all the oil burning cars I've had, it's burned the least.
#159
Visited a junkyard outside Baltimore this week. Found out it had a white Fit and was gonna grab it's rear doors. Turns out they didn't look too hot in person. One had a wave which I can't explain, and the other had a decent sized dent.
I went back today and grabbed it's carpet and rear seats to start a '09-11 Sport interior conversion. Door panels could've been better, but I'm aiming high on the condition. Carpet was almost perfect aside from one flaw, but still way better than mine. Rear seats are just dirty.
Also grab it's battery tray since mine is pretty fucked. Sanded down most of the rust and paint, treated it, primed, and painted the area. Crisis mostly averted.