Here are prints





img upload

Here is my HO thread
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tor-i-did.html


Here is ELD bypass page

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...ivicaccordfit/


Here is supplemental white paper for understanding the circuit

http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/view...text=auto_pres


So basically on the ELD bypass page they talk about the fit wire color as pink , that is correct looking at the schematic.

The problem most of you have found is the ELD is inside the fuse box inside the car and it's a whore to get to it. You have to open the fuse box to get to it. F$&k that! So there is a white connector on very bottom of fuse box (C301) its directly next to a small black fuse holder for a single 30A mini fuse. if you reference the pics I posted it points to connector. There's two pink wires in that connector. You need to get a DMM and test both wires. You want the one that is between 1-5V depending on how many accessories you have turned on. If you turn on heater fan and headlights you'll find the correct pink wire drops in voltage. That's the wire you want.

Cut it , the side that measures 5V with key on is the wire you will add resistors to in series with ground.

The ELD bypass page on SMD fourms says you have to use the ground coming out of the ELD. Bull larkie! You can use plain old ground. No need to hunt for the black ELD wire because it doesn't exist in the GE8. It's a common shared ground coming out of fuse box that terminates in kick panel. So just plain ol ground will work for the resistor.

Also the ELD forum says use a 820 ohm resistor. That is also wrong. If you look at the supplement page I posted the white paper from the college about the Honda dual stage charging it clearly states between 1 and 2 V on the ELD wire will put it into high current mode. The 820ohm resistor put it above 2volts . So I wired three 820 on resistors in parallel. ( I bought the scene 10 pack that he has on his page from Parts Express ) three of those in parallel put it at 1.03volts. perfectly! So it worked out by buying the 820s. On the ELD page the guy even says 820 is enough to put it above 2 V he just didn't see that white paper that states that it needs to be between one and 2 V . And during my tests metering the wire and analyzing it's behavior I noticed that the wire dropped below 2 V with the heater fan and headlights on so that definitely told me the 820 was too high of resistance it needed to be lower more than half that's why I wired three of them. I started off by wiring two of them and it took me to 1.5 V so I said screw it was try third cross my fingers and it worked out 1.03 V couldn't be better . If you wanted to be cool you can raise the resistance a tiny bit to get it safely above 1v but I figured it'll always output at 5 V and the resistor itself I trust not to change resistance for at least 25 years . So why not get it to the bleeding edge. This way I KNOW it's outputting the most.

With those links you should be able to do the modification it worked out very well and complemented my 250 amp alternator very nicely. I can now bump 3000 W for more than 20 minutes and have my headlights and Ac on and NO DIMMING!

I put mine on the toggle switch just like he did. I can watch my voltage gauge go up a couple seconds after I turn the switch on during normal driving if I have my ac on and my headlights on I just keep the switch off because it does the same thing . Or when my wife drives and doesn't listen to the stereo As loud.

Well that's how you do it on a GE eight ! Best of luck

 

Great Very Informative Thread,
Moderator Please kindly help by STICKY this thread at the ICE forum for GE8