Looking for the Guy Who "Stuffed" His Gas Tank
#1
Looking for the Guy Who "Stuffed" His Gas Tank
Someone posted here recently about over-filling the Fit gas tank and flooding the charcoal canister. I am trying to find that thread and that poster.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#4
#5
Overfill? Maybe some models are sensitive. I know that most manufacturers don't recommend it but, I've been doing it for decades, without any negative consequences.
I tend not to overfill on most fill-ups, but I often round up to the next highest dollar. Long trips are a different story. I will often top off the tank with as much as I can fit.
I tend not to overfill on most fill-ups, but I often round up to the next highest dollar. Long trips are a different story. I will often top off the tank with as much as I can fit.
#6
This was an issue with my MK5 Golf GTi. Evap system is really sensitive in those, like to the point where even a little extra will trigger a fault code, but I've brimmed the Fit every time I fill it and never had an issue.
#7
I wanted to reread the original thread and possibly ask the poster what symptoms he was experiencing. I am (still) trying to figure out why my '13 Fit has recently become hard to start first thing in the morning. I'm getting the feeling it's a fuel delivery issue, i.e., either too rich or too lean. I already inspected the air box and replaced the air filter, but it didn't help.
#9
Mister Coffee- We're getting off topic, but here's my 2 cents.
You need fuel, electricity and oxygen to start and run the engine. Electricity tends to be the most common problem area, followed by fuel, and then air.
As ostronomer said, make sure your engine is cranking at normal speed. If cranking is slow, the most common problems are a weak battery or bad/corroded cable connections.
Does the starting problem happen only in the morning or does the problem also occur on a cold start later in the day? Sometimes morning dew will affect plug wires or other components. Not usually a problem if your car is garaged.
Your '13 is fairly new, so I assume that you still have the OEM (Irridium/Platinum) plugs installed. They are good for at least 100,000 miles. Plain platinum plugs and standard plugs won't last as long and, as the gap erodes, starting becomes more difficult.
Try to check the OBD codes. (You'll need a code reader.) The codes will indicate possible "misfire" or sensor problems.
Misfires could be the result of bad plugs, coils, plug wires or the igniter module. The igniter module will affect ALL cylinders on a random basis. If the car idles smoothly, runs well, has normal MPG and there are no OBD codes, then the Igniter is probably ok.
Ignition Coils are another possibility, but they would only affect a single cylinder. It's unlikely that all coils would be bad at the same time.
I hope this helps.
#10
Thanks, guys. Your posts are a help, and I appreciate them.
My '13 Fit has approx. 15k miles. It has always been garaged. I live in SoCal, a warm climate. The trouble started after approx. 10k miles. It only occurs on first start in the morning. The dealer has inspected the battery (and insists that the alternator is fine). I have visually inspected the battery and the negative lead. I will go back and look at the positive. I inspected the air box and replaced the air filter. (All other parts are OEM original.) I have no code reader, so I have not checked the codes. Recently, I disconnected the negative lead on the battery and let it sit overnight, then reconnected it in order to "reset" the ecu fuel mapping.
Here's the thing: Except for the first start in the morning, the car runs well, and I am capable of getting 40 mpg (when I don't wail on it). I wonder if the air/fuel mixture is off for some reason, and this is affecting only the cold first start. But that's just a guess.
P.S. If I had a code, my Check Engine light would be on, no?
My '13 Fit has approx. 15k miles. It has always been garaged. I live in SoCal, a warm climate. The trouble started after approx. 10k miles. It only occurs on first start in the morning. The dealer has inspected the battery (and insists that the alternator is fine). I have visually inspected the battery and the negative lead. I will go back and look at the positive. I inspected the air box and replaced the air filter. (All other parts are OEM original.) I have no code reader, so I have not checked the codes. Recently, I disconnected the negative lead on the battery and let it sit overnight, then reconnected it in order to "reset" the ecu fuel mapping.
Here's the thing: Except for the first start in the morning, the car runs well, and I am capable of getting 40 mpg (when I don't wail on it). I wonder if the air/fuel mixture is off for some reason, and this is affecting only the cold first start. But that's just a guess.
P.S. If I had a code, my Check Engine light would be on, no?
#11
Not necessarily. The system will store codes for problems that happened but aren't going on right now. Some may just be history, some may be pending- the have to happen more than once to turn on the light. You've been having the problem for 5k miles, so it doesn't sound like something happened once and hasn't come back.
That said, get an OBD reader. They're cheap, you'll get a final answer and always have the ability to get an answer in the future.
That said, get an OBD reader. They're cheap, you'll get a final answer and always have the ability to get an answer in the future.
#12
Mine takes a bit longer to crank early in the morning.
2012 MT with 29K miles.
I think it's normal. Cold engine, perhaps the pump builds up pressure in the fuel lines.
If you can start it from the first try with less than 2 seconds of cranking, it's not a problem.
2012 MT with 29K miles.
I think it's normal. Cold engine, perhaps the pump builds up pressure in the fuel lines.
If you can start it from the first try with less than 2 seconds of cranking, it's not a problem.
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08-07-2006 06:50 PM