Hello! I have enjoyed learning about cars of other people's threads, but alas I couldn't find one with the question I wanted to ask, so here goes my first post!

I took out my head unit to run a line out converter for my new amp and sub I put in my car. I've always wanted to move/add another audio jack for a future bluetooth setup and just so the cord isn't always hanging in front of the dash, and my question is this: Would it work to solder on wires for another jack in parallel, and which pin numbers would I hook up to which wires?







Also, have you after heard of someone successfully doing this before?

Thanks so much for the help!

 

Pin 1 is usually the ground. Plug a 3.5mm male to male cord in and probe with a continuity tester which pin goes to tip ring and sleeve. Now the other two pins is likely a signal switch where the head unit looks for closure (or open circuit) to activate the AUX input to be selected on the head unit. You will need to make sure your jack is a 5 pin 3.5mm. Below are a two types of a 5 pin 3.5mm

Config 1:

The two extra pins are extra connections to the tip and sleeve pins, which break when a plug is inserted. This is an example of a plug with non-isolated switching: two switches are provided, but they involve signal lines. This has various uses. For instance, it can be used with input jacks, to pull the inputs to the ground when there is no plug, to reduce noise. Or with output jacks to switch from an internal load/speaker to the external line out or headphones.

Config 2:
Plug has a single, isolated switch between the two extra pins. ussually a double bar connection between the sleeve contact and the switch reed represents a non-conductive spacer, which binds the two so they move together. This is an isolated SPST switch with "make" semantics: it closes when a plug is inserted. This would be useful for generating an event signal indicating a plug insertion or removal, or simply as a power switch for turning an amplifier on when the headphones are plugged in.

Probe with a multimeter on continuity to determine what kind of jack you can run in parallel. Once you do that, should have no issue running who jacks in parallel. Just make sure you use good shielded wire so as not to introduce noise.

Cheers

 

I don't have an answer, but I've wondered the same as it would be nice to re-route the Aux plug to the lower section near the cup-holders (as setup in the Fits w/ OEM navigation).

 

Thank you so much! I was looking online trying to figure out what the other two pins were for but couldn't find anything about them, so you are a massive help! You explained it very well! (Although I might have to read it a couple more times cause I'm a little slow )


I will let you know how this turns out, although it's probably going to be a while because I need to find these 5 pin aux jacks. Hoping for the best!

 

Bassguitarist1985, is there a way to tell which one of the two types of 5 pins jacks you buy? Or did I misunderstand the different between the two setups? My question is, do you think this would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-3-5mm-Audio-jack-headphone-jack-5pin-orange-PCB-mount-/271246366511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f278b172f

 

IDK if it will work. Have you figured out what the 2 extra pins do with a 3.5mm male plug inserted into the jack? Once you know that, I'd go to Mouser.com or digikey.com to figure out which one you need. I don't have my 2011 anymore I cannot test this myself.

 

Alright, so pins 1,2 and 3 are ground, left and right. Pins 4 and 5 are connected when there is no cord in, and when the cord is in, they disconnect. This is Config 1, right?

Looking at mouser and digi-key, I couldn't find different setups for the two types described. So, Question is, would this work?

SJ1-3535NG-BE CUI Inc | CP1-3535NG-BE-ND | DigiKey

Here's the data sheet

http://www.cui.com/product/resource/sj1-353xng.pdf

My concern is that the SJ1-3535NG would be different from the 4th and 5th pin connected with nothing in it, and disconnected when there's a plug in it.

Also, what kind of cord would I run? The USB cord I took apart had 4 wires and a ground shield....that's five wires... I was also thinking of a cat-5

Any Thoughts? Thanks a bunch!

 

Answer me this, does pin 4/5 have any connection to the other 3 pins?


Your suggested part is a tip/ring switch, meaning pin 5 and 3 connect and 4 and 2 connect when a plug is inserted. It may not be the right config until I know the answer to the first question above.


Far as a cord to run. Cutting a USB cord could work, but 5 conductor shielded wire should be easy to obtain, or 4 conductor + shield will work.

 

I used a different multi meter and got totally different results, so I must have been doing something wrong. New information!

Most pins have a 21 ohm to 46 ohm connection, but the only perfect ones (0 ohm) are Pin 3 to Pin 5 and Pin 2 to Pin 4 when there is nothing in the jack. These pins disconnect when you plug something in.

It looks like the data sheet picture shows that the opposite happens with the SJ1-3535 where the pins connect when something is plugged in, could it be that they actually disconnect and it's just a misleading picture? Or maybe that's what the picture is saying and we're just reading in wrong?

I suppose that's the deep question of the day!
Thoughts?

 

So you need diagram D with two Normally closed switches it sounds like.







However, All Electronics may have something you need...


3.5MM STEREO MINI-PHONE JACK W/ 2 NC SHUNTS | All Electronics Corp.

 

I saw that diagram and the write up on it described what I needed, so I agree that diagram D is what I'm looking for, but my question is, all of the 5 pin jacks have the same diagram/schematic in the data sheet, so are they different? Then do you have to find a NC on the name?

 

Yes, datasheet should state if the pins are normally closed or normally open.

 

Is that to do with the 2 letters after the number? As in SJ1-3535NG or SJ1-3535NS Because I couldn't find anything in the data sheet. Do you know what I would be looking for? I haven't got a clue how to where they say it.

 

No.


NS means Shielded
NG means Un-Shielded


Schematic in the datasheet says they are normally closed, two internal switches. The arrow points to the two connectors showing they are connected. Like I mentioned a normally open switch is a more rare config. (That's config 2, but with a SPST switch, not two ON/OFF switches.) With that configuration there is normally an isolated ground between signal and audio lines. Not in your case with the FIT.

I just spoke to Ryan at CUI for you to confirm this is 100% correct, hes the technician contact. That's how cool of a guy I am


Buy the "NS" one as its shielded from RFI/EMI.


SJ1-3535NS CUI Inc | CP1-3535NS-ND | DigiKey

 

Dude, you're awesome Thanks so much! So all those SJ1-3535 ones would work?? Because I really wanted the plug to be blue! Again, thanks so much!! You talked about using shielded wire, what do you mean by that? I'm planning to add 2 aux jacks, one 5 pin for were my 12v outlet is, and one 3 pin that I would plug a bluetooth kit (Maybe belkin?) and hide it behind panels.
It would be super handy to mark and solder a cat5 cable to it (which has 8 wires), that way I could put my radio back in and not have to take it out when the jacks that I will buy finally come. Do you think cat5 would work?

 

CAT5 is normally shielded so yes that should work.


Yes any of the SJ1-3535 ones will work. Though I would prefer the "NS" variety as its shielded. However, the "NS" should be fine in the color you want.


Now if you want to keep a Bluetooth unit always connected to the Aux input there will be issues. If were to use the AUX jack for something else, you will have both the Bluetooth output, and your device output in parallel with each other. Introducing more noise to your sound is the biggest thing. Each device will see the impedance of the other, and the headunit input impedance. There is also the issue of ground loops. Bigger problem is the two 3.5 jacks will be both activating the internal signal switch we discussed. If one is closed and the other is open, the HU still sees a closed circuit causing AUX to not be selectable.


Scenario: Bluetooth is always connected on parallel jack. In doing so leaves that NC switch now in an open state. The problem is the primary unoccupied jack of the HU will leave the internal switch closed, which will cause the HU to not recognize a jack is installed (ie: your Bluetooth device which you plan to permanently connect) The only way to make your BT device work is to insert a plug into the HU jack. To open the signal switch in the jack.


Solution 01: Replace HU and 2nd jack with a standard 3 pin 3.5mm jack. The HU will always have AUX selected, you gamble on two devices on the same circuit adding negligible noise and possible ground loops. G-loops can be solved with an isolator easily.

Solution 02: Abandon and disconnect the HU jack, and just use the BT device as your AUX input.


Solution 03: keep the existing jack and run a simple splitter. like this.


Solution 04:

 

First of all, I understand and can completely appreciated the desire to DIY something... BUT... (I don't remember seeing if anyone asked this question) Why not sink the money into an aftermarket head unit? The Stock HU is not really all that great and since you've already added an amplifier and sub, why not go with a new head unit that can send better signal to the Sub? you might be able to recoup a few bucks back on the Line Output Converter and skip the Belkin bluetooth add-on (I own one - it's ... ok) and put that towards a Bluetooth Head unit. At Crutchfield, you can get a new Head unit with Bluetooth for $69 US (not that I would recommend going with the bottom end ) but there are also other models reasonably priced. (double din units around $149) They all have line inputs, the bluetooth is already part of the Head unit, usb is included, they (almost all) likely will sound 10x better than the stock head unit. (and if you can order from Crutchfield, they include all of the install parts free.)

The down side to using a LOC for bass is that if the factory head unit does not output below a certain frequency (which is a distinctive possibilty), your lows/subs will still sound off. Unfortunately, I have no idea (or no idea how to determine) what frequency the stock head unit will go down to.

Best bet is to get a HU with Preamp outputs so the signal coming from the HU is clean and isn't being amplified, then being converted back to line level.

I originally went the belkin Round button Bluetooth into the front input of the Stereo and while it worked, it wasn't great. I finally made the call to replace the HU with a JVC bluetooth unit and it was SOOO worth it. Cost was around $200 about 3 Christmases ago for everything I wanted (including the amp wiring kit for installing my Infinity Basslink sub) The Sound of the HU is much better than the stock one and (while it sounds like it might be gimicky), the fact I don't have to switch inputs to take an incoming call is so nice. one press of the button and I answer the call. (Bluetooth sound quality is also much better)

~SB

 

In for updates!

 

You can use an oscilloscope with white/pink and brown noise to see the freq response and rolloff of the bass frequencies. Likely the -3db cutoff is somewhere around 50hz to get rid of any low end rumble from the tiny stock speakers in the fit. That's my guess.


Now depending on the LOC unit you get, they can employ another active gain stage after the low bandpass filter of the LOC to boost the sub 50hz (or whatever the cutoff is) without adding extra noise. its all about looking at the specs of the components for your application. Stock HU's there are always corners cut, but decent well designed aftermarket components that don't have to cost major $$$$ can make the an LOC a quick solution.