So, on top of having a couple of bits of issues with the supercharger that was able to cope with, i got exhaust issues the other day.

Basically, i seem to have a hole somewhere before the o2 sensor causing o2 related codes (0134, 1157, 1172, 2195 & 2238). I have not seen the hole itself, but watching the o2 readings on my ultragauge yesterday, it is far too consistent to be an electrical short or something. Pressing the throttle lightly, it sticks to rich reading (low o2). Remember, i have a Sprintex supercharger and piggyback doing some work on the side. If i ease off the throttle then, it gets a less rich (o2 increases slightly). That, i think is due to the vacuum creating by the exhaust already moving past the hole and the less pressure from the engine that pulls air through the hole. If i throttle hard and then release, the increase shoots to near maximum o2 reading (makes sense following a bigger change in exhaust pressure pulling even more air through the hole). The hole itself seems to have gotten bigger, as it sticks to lean readings more than varying down to rich readings.

Now, that started a two days ago....

Today we got a good helping of rain, creating puddles and flooded portions of road. And i drove through one of those flooded parts.

BAD IDEA!

I think it caused some water to reach some wires (possibly the piggyback) and trigger all kinds of havoc, on top of "flooding" the exhaust.

P0335, P0606, p1157, p2195.... Which i was able to look up when i had the time. But there's one code i can't find online right now, p2K00. No idea what that is, but i think i saw it in passing in the service manual i have at home. Oh, that 606 is definitely bad news... ECU malfunction!

It initially triggered limp mode that took a while to go away despite using UG to clear codes. But one oddity was left over even afterwards... Namely in second gear, it would momentarily act like limp mode when crossing 3k rpm and again at about 4k-4.5k rpm. Jerky jerky.

But since i'm doing deliveries, i go through plenty of "drive cycles" (if u didn't know, start engine-drive a bit-stop engine, repeat), so a number of the issues went away.

 

DAMN! Sunuva.....! AUUUGH!

Hope it gets better soon.

 

Goobers that is a lot of errors! For a exhaust leak I would expect one or two consistent errors, not what you saw. Have you put dielectric grease in your connectors yet? Did you ever get around to doing a CKP relearn? I found it necessary to do the CKP again after I loaded the Church map because I was seeing errors for the secondary o2 sensor and misfires errors again.

 

You will need additional detail on logged engine parameters revolving around these DTC. The detail should be in the freeze frame data on the PCM that UltraGauge might not be able to retrieve. It might provide some clue for back tracking to determine what went wrong to trigger those DTC. You need better diagnostic tool. Here is a AutoEnginuity Scan Tool screen dump on freeze frame data. HDS HIM might provide more information.

P0606 is nasty. Does unplugging the SMT8L make DTC P0606 go away? I would start by doing continuity test on all circuits that are tapped or intercepted by the SMT8L. Checking voltage input to the SMT8L and voltage output from the STM8L could help you eliminate possible point of failure.

 

Well, the only codes that popped up before the rainstorm were P0134, 1157, 1172, 2195 and 2238. All relating to the O2 sensor.

Gary did mention it could still be related to the SMT8L "T"ing of the wire (electrical gremlins), but while it could explain four of them, it doesn't explain the P0134, since that specifically is the heating unit in the O2 sensor.

The 606 popped up after going through the flooded road and once it cleared via UG, didn't come back.

I did order a faux HDS tool from DHGate.com back at the end of Jan, but it still hasn't shown up. Got an email claiming it was shipped on Jan 25th. The dealer didn't respond to my appointment request... my mechanic doesn't want to deal with it. Not happy on those fronts.

 

Yeah, I spent a weekend fixing my harness. It seems to be holding up through daily speed bumps and several rain storms. I still don't trust it longevity in daily abuse. The BoomSlang FIC 6 harness looks better made. I have not been able to rationalize the move to AEM FIC 6 with the BoomSlang plug-n-play harness. Arg . . . . . Well actually I dislike the need to return my car back to stock to collect MAF voltage reference data to write the AEM FIC 6 MAF clamp voltage map. Money is the second negative.

For starter, you can fixed the AFR PINs: PIN 12/12 and PIN 3/10. This might help determine if your A/F sensor is bad and need replacing. I tried unsuccessfully to dig up specification on the Honda A/F sensor. With the specs I could measure the A/F sensor resistance for acceptable tolerance.

 

Are you sure about the p2k00???
I'm looking on ISIS and I don't see that code.
I see a p2a00 that is a Trans failure code.

 

Yeah, it's a strange one... the code I thought I saw in the manual turned out to be P2A00.

But, as far as UG is concerned, it is P2K00. Google only shows one relevant result of a guy basically asking the same thing about his Nissan... "wtf is P2K00?"

BTW, in the service manual, P2A00 relates to A/F sensor having "range/performance problem."



Um... where does pin 3/10 go? Looking at Jibberjabbs post in your install thread, it shows mismatched colors... with "grey/blue" where 3/10 would be. Yet, "Grey/blue" in the install instructions indicates it's supposed to T off the AFR line as an input line (12/12) vs 3/10 being a wideband lambda output line. It would make sense if we used 12/12 and 3/10 to intercept the AFR line, instead of T-ing in... i think.

Strange...

Best I could come up with for the AFR sensor is part # 36531-RB0-003... my guess is, basically an O2 sensor. Bosch 18064 (upstream o2 sensor).

 

Post #399 and #400 in https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1219876 has detail of my electrical issue with the SMTL8L.

Result of tracing wires with a multi-meter. Some of the wires to the PIN are bridged together. AFR and TPS are bridged. TPS signals are from the 3 bar map sensor.

SMT8L 12 Pins Connector
Pin Signal Description
1, 12V Supply, Honda Ignition On battery voltage
2, Freq (in), Not Used
3, Analog 3 (in), Not Used
4, AIRT (in), Sprintex supplied IAT sensor
5, TPS (in), Signal from PIN 10-10
6, GND, Chassis ground – See PIN 1-10
7, Analog 1 (in), Honda MAF sensor
8, Map switch, Not Used
9, Analog 2 (in), Sprintex supplied 3 Bar map sensor
10, AMP (in), Sprintex supplied 1 Bar map sensor
11, Eng Temp, (in) Honda Coolant sensor
12, AFR (in), Honda A/ F sensor Signal and signal to PIN 3-10

SMT8l 10 Pins Connector
1, GND, Chassis ground – See PIN 6-12
2, Freq (out), CKP sensor signal out to Honda ECM/PCM
3, WB (out), Signal from PIN 12-12
4, Analog 3 (out), Voltage to Sprintex supplied 3 Bar and 1 Bar map sensor
5, Analog 1 (out), MAF signal out to Honda ECM/PCM
6, Injector 1 (out), Sprintex supplied supplementary injector
7, Ign (out), Not Used
8, Ign (In), Honda CKP sensor
9, AFR (out), Not Used
10, Analog 2 (out), Signal to PIN 5-12

 

Hum, not sure whats going on anymore...

Yesterday, it seemed like it was "back to normal," whatever that was (haven't done a high rpm hold lately to see if thats still an issue). But then, near the end of the night, the Fit tried to "compensate" for lean conditions by dumping fuel like crazy... 49! Until eventually it gave up and stopped the short trim altogether. The 49 occurred on Monday too. Once the short trim stopped, the o2 readings would fluctuate just like how i described it earlier. Though, this time, it generally read lean as opposed to rich (high o2 reading in UG).

Today, its back to "normal" again. But, if its like yesterday, it should go crazy again.

So... Is something overheating and going kaput?

Well, taking it to a shop on monday to see if theres a hole then going from there.