Won't start
#1
Won't start
Hi all,
Well, my fit is giving me problems for the first time ever today. Went to crank it over this morning and it wouldn't start. It is cold today, but has started in colder temps recently and is kept in a garage. It will crank over and fire maybe once or twice, then die. The check engine light hasn't been on, nor has it given me any hint of problems until today. Any off the top of the head ideas as what it could be?
Well, my fit is giving me problems for the first time ever today. Went to crank it over this morning and it wouldn't start. It is cold today, but has started in colder temps recently and is kept in a garage. It will crank over and fire maybe once or twice, then die. The check engine light hasn't been on, nor has it given me any hint of problems until today. Any off the top of the head ideas as what it could be?
#4
Thanks for the quick replies. Last filled with gas probably 3-5 days ago. It is just over 5 years old and has 93k miles on it. I have never replaced the spark plugs on it but I thought they were good to 100k?
#7
well... the old saying goes it's either fuel or spark. (is that the old saying?) I guess it could be valves but that wouldn't change overnight.
Plugs should be good for over 100k. Valves should present other problems if an issue (they're due for adjustment the same time as plugs).
If you know anyone with an OBDII reader it would be useful to know if there are any codes stored even if the engine MIL didn't turn on.
It could be old fashioned flooding. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking. This opens some kind of purge valve.
If it only ran a short time the last time it was running, it may not have warmed up enough and fuel condensed on the plugs. Step 5 and 6 should get it going even in this case. I always let it run a few minutes even if I'm moving it around the driveway.
Plugs should be good for over 100k. Valves should present other problems if an issue (they're due for adjustment the same time as plugs).
If you know anyone with an OBDII reader it would be useful to know if there are any codes stored even if the engine MIL didn't turn on.
It could be old fashioned flooding. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking. This opens some kind of purge valve.
Originally Posted by owner's manual
4. Without touching the accelerator
pedal, turn the ignition key to the
START (III) position. Do not hold
the key in the START (III) position
for more than 15 seconds at a time.
If the engine does not start right
away, pause for at least 10 seconds
before trying again.
The immobilizer system protects your
vehicle from theft. If an improperlycoded
key (or other device) is used, the
engine's fuel system is disabled. For
more information, see page 79.
5. If the engine does not start within
15 seconds, or starts but stalls
right away, repeat step 4 with the
accelerator pedal pressed halfway
down. If the engine starts, release
pressure on the accelerator pedal
so the engine does not race.
6. If the engine fails to start, press
the accelerator pedal all the way
down, and hold it there while
starting to clear flooding. If the
engine still does not start, return to
step 5.
pedal, turn the ignition key to the
START (III) position. Do not hold
the key in the START (III) position
for more than 15 seconds at a time.
If the engine does not start right
away, pause for at least 10 seconds
before trying again.
The immobilizer system protects your
vehicle from theft. If an improperlycoded
key (or other device) is used, the
engine's fuel system is disabled. For
more information, see page 79.
5. If the engine does not start within
15 seconds, or starts but stalls
right away, repeat step 4 with the
accelerator pedal pressed halfway
down. If the engine starts, release
pressure on the accelerator pedal
so the engine does not race.
6. If the engine fails to start, press
the accelerator pedal all the way
down, and hold it there while
starting to clear flooding. If the
engine still does not start, return to
step 5.
Last edited by Steve244; 01-27-2014 at 11:28 AM.
#9
well... the old saying goes it's either fuel or spark. (is that the old saying?) I guess it could be valves but that wouldn't change overnight.
Plugs should be good for over 100k. Valves should present other problems if an issue (they're due for adjustment the same time as plugs).
If you know anyone with an OBDII reader it would be useful to know if there are any codes stored even if the engine MIL didn't turn on.
It could be old fashioned flooding. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking. This opens some kind of purge valve.
If it only ran a short time the last time it was running, it may not have warmed up enough and fuel condensed on the plugs. Step 5 and 6 should get it going even in this case. I always let it run a few minutes even if I'm moving it around the driveway.
Plugs should be good for over 100k. Valves should present other problems if an issue (they're due for adjustment the same time as plugs).
If you know anyone with an OBDII reader it would be useful to know if there are any codes stored even if the engine MIL didn't turn on.
It could be old fashioned flooding. Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking. This opens some kind of purge valve.
If it only ran a short time the last time it was running, it may not have warmed up enough and fuel condensed on the plugs. Step 5 and 6 should get it going even in this case. I always let it run a few minutes even if I'm moving it around the driveway.
#10
This did the trick. Yesterday I actually backed it out of the driveway, turned it off, washed the car, then put it back in the garage. Wasn't running more than 30 seconds. When I got home today I put the accelerator to the floor and started cranking. Took 10-15 seconds, but it finally did start!
#12
I could fit luggage for a week in the trunk for 6 of us along with golf clubs and cart and hang 4 bikes off the back.
#14
I would have to look this up but if this vehicle has a clear flood mode then it wont spray fuel from the injectors when you hold the gas pedal all the way down to the floor. There is no actual valve that opens. Clear flood mode electronically turns off fuel injectors.
#15
Last edited by Phnergnerf; 01-30-2014 at 08:04 PM.
#16
Glad you were able to get your Fit running. Since you asked about testing the battery you might find this useful (not my video):
Battery Load Test With a Multimeter - YouTube
If you don't have a fancy multimeter with a logging feature you can still do the test by having someone else start the car while you watch the meter.
Battery Load Test With a Multimeter - YouTube
If you don't have a fancy multimeter with a logging feature you can still do the test by having someone else start the car while you watch the meter.
#17
Batteries can gradually lose capacity (sulfation mainly) or they can fail overnight (usually after a temperature snap).
They're not known for lasting more than 5 years. 2 years is about average (no I don't have stats to back that up). Yours performed well with the starting issue so I'm not sure I'd be running to replace it, but I'd be watching for sales.
NAPA has them all the time for $92.00 (with core).
They're not known for lasting more than 5 years. 2 years is about average (no I don't have stats to back that up). Yours performed well with the starting issue so I'm not sure I'd be running to replace it, but I'd be watching for sales.
NAPA has them all the time for $92.00 (with core).
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karebu
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04-08-2014 01:39 AM