This morning during the last 1/2 mile of my drive to work, I heard a noise coming from the engine area of my 2009 Honda Fit (manual sport) that made me concerned. I would describe it as a metallic/grinding sound that was pretty loud. I could hear it with the windows up and with low music on.

I opened the hood and started the engine while a co-worker looked in and we determined that the noise starts about 5 seconds after the car turns on - when the ventilation system turns on. We could see that little wheel on the side of the air compressor started spinning at the exact same time the noise began.

I confirmed this by starting the car, waiting until the noise kicked in, and then turning the dial to zero on the ventilation controls. When the air/heat is shut off completely, the noise never starts. This happened today and I am currently just driving around not using any air or heat and using windows to cool me down as needed.

If it's relevant to this discussion, the air conditioning on this car gave out 2 years ago. I never got it fixed because until recently I lived in the central coast of California where the weather is nice year round.

Anyone have any experience with this or know what I should expect?

 

A/C Compressor failure. AFAIK the system uses the freon as a lubricant. If the system was damaged and the freon evacuated this is probably the reason for the failure.

If you don't have the money to fix the A/C you could get a non-A/C serpentine belt from the canadian DX Fit which doesn't have A/C so the compressor doesn't spin.

 

Is it just me, or does it seem ridiculous that my 2009 Honda would need a new a/c compressor? It doesn't even have 60K miles on it.

How much do you think that fix would be?

 

What was wrong with it that it "gave out"?

 

It just stopped getting as cold and then eventually it wasn't any different from just having it all the way on the "cool" side of the regular ventilation.

 

What was the fix?

 

It sounds like the compressor is on it's last legs. There is oil that circulates around the system with the refrigerant. If all of the refrigerant is gone so is some of the oil.

If it were me I would find the electrical plug to the compressor clutch and disconnect it immediately.

This will stop the engine from energizing the clutch and trying to turn the compressor. I had one lock up on another brand / type of vehicle last summer. Every time the clutch energized it would smoke the belt and kill the engine.

With the clutch disconnected (not energized), you can still drive it and fix the compressor problem at your leisure. I have never bought a Honda Fit compressor but if it is like other Honda parts I'll bet it is expensive. You might want to look for a used one if you still want your AC to work next summer. Also check some of the online parts places like Rock Auto, and ebay, and Amazon.

I see Schram has a used one for $140. It only has 11k miles on it. I have bought used parts from them and they are good to deal with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-HONDA-FIT-AC-COMPRESSOR-/270815239164?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0dd89bfc&vxp=mtr
Here is another one with 46k miles on it for $125.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-HONDA-FIT-AC-COMPRESSOR-130342-1032459-/370929948441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565d25d719&vxp=mtr
Rock Auto wants $339 for a new one.

There are others. These were just the first 3 I found.

 

Smart! Yes the bearings are probably fine correct? I have little first hand knowledge of A/C systems, i've never had one go bad before.

 

Yes the pulley that the belt is on spins (freewheels) on a bearing normally called a clutch bearing. The pulley does not directly turn the compressor. When the clutch is electrically engaged it in connects the pulley to the shaft that turns the compressor. So if we prevent that engagement action by unplugging the clutch, the car can be driven for thousands of miles that way. If on the other hand he does not hear the noise go away then the pulley / clutch bearing is probably bad and needs to be replaced right away.

From his description I believe that the bearing is OK.

 

Currently, the clutch doesn't seem to engage if I keep all ventilation in the car turned off. So at least until I get this fixed I can get by without making it worse for a couple days. I'm going to be a little upset if I have to pay like $1000 for a brand new compressor in my just out of warranty Honda.. my family always buys Hondas because they are so reliable and never have issues like this.

 

If the A/C gave out 2 years ago, and you didn't have it fixed under warranty, I'm guessing it was damaged some how.

Leaving it uncharged will damage it more: moisture can find its way into the system. I didn't think the compressor would run without a charge, pressure switches. Maybe it will for short periods, that would add to the mayhem. Not selecting defog/defrost (this runs the A/C) and not turning on the A/C switch should avoid the compressor even attempting to run.

Fit's A/C is prone to trouble. I've had to do $250 work out of warranty on mine. Other than that, it's been trouble free.

 

Yes, I should have had the A/C looked at when I first noticed something wrong. I did not realize about the defrost... I haven't had the A/C on when I've been hearing the noise but I do usually keep it on defrost. I will test it out and hopefully be able to use the heater again!

 

Confirmed.. As long as I don't put the defroster or A/C on it's all good.

 

I'm going to suggest this a second time and then I'll shut up.

Unplug the compressor clutch. Then you can set the heating or defrost to any setting and the compressor will not turn.

 

I appreciate the suggestion and I'm sure you're right. I have VERY limited knowledge about cars and I would have no idea how to unplug the compressor switch.

 

Follow the fan belt to the compressor. Directly behind the fan belt pulley on the compressor is a wire. Follow that wire to the first plug you see and disconnect the plug.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Hond...rs%3B708%3B532

 

Update - I took it into the dealership when I had a few days off during the holidays. I wanted to get a couple different services done (new brakes, alignment check, etc) and had them look at the noise. They refilled the refrigerant and it seems to have fixed everything - the noise and the air conditioning. A cheap fix

 

It helps to run it periodically (once or twice a month), even if not needed, for a few minutes. This helps keep everything lubricated and sealed.

 

Hey guys,

I have a similar metal grinding sound however mine begins on my 1st turn of the key of the day. It has been getting more frequent and more so when it's cold out. The mechanic can't seem to pin point it either. Anyone hear of this scenario?

 

Sorry for reviving a long dead post, does anyone have the part number for the Canadian serpentine belt without the AC? I'm looking at a $2,217.00 quote to get my car fixed from the stealership...

Edit: After a lot of searching this forum (my car is unusable, so I'm trying to work quickly) I believe I need a 34" belt. I'm going to Order a Dayco 5050340, per the recommendation of an old post, and then check with a few more sources to see their thoughts.