I have a 2008 Honda Fit,

Seems like my window switch may have gone! I know there is a recall But I just prefer to do it myself! I have the switch out and there is some corrosion on the board itself!

My problem is not replacing the switch I just have to order a new one! My problem is that my window is stuck open and It has been raining off and on for 3 days. It luckily just happened today.

I would like to jump the contacts if possible to bring the window up! I have NOT pulled the whole door panel off yet I just took the master switch out and pulled it apart.

Can anyone tell me what contacts to jump? thanks in advance
Shawn

 

can you pull the passenger side switch and use it on the driver side temporarily?

i would try that.

 

I believe that still passes through the master switch as well. That's how you can turn of the other window switches from the master on the drivers door.

You should be able to trace the wires from the motor. You'll just have to jump 12v to the correct side to make it go up.

 

This is prob best bet. I dont know if Honda went to CAN system on these cars. If they did, messing with the switch wont be much help. nor would jumping at the switch as that would cause ECU dmg. go to the motor and jump from there.

 

Here is the wiring diagram with colors indicated pick two LOL.

best opened in IE so the photos open.

Wiring Diagram

 

Thanks,

but thats pretty much greek to me! I seed red/blk is open but there has to be a ground too? and to which one?

Honda has discontinued making the switch so I had to get one off ebay! THIS SUCKS!!

 

B+ red/blk. Ground red/yellow and itll go up. Jump at motor. If you jump random wires at switch youll dmg the body control ecu

 

Oh thats for driver front window. But same principle on the others. Where it says up+ you make that pos/B+ and ground other.

 

Dude you ROCK!!! Window is up and now I know it's not the motor and it is just the switch!! I can do most mechanical repairs myself but I am horrible at electrical unless I know exactly what it is! changing an alternator or lights etc.. not big deal. I know how to check for continuity and check voltage etc...

Anyway BIG THANKS STEINER!!!!!!! and LOUDBANG for the schematic!!

Shawn

 

Late to chime in but glad to know you got your window rolled up.

As far as the part being discontinued, its due to Honda releasing an "updated" unit and phasing out the old part. Similar to how they phased out ATF Z1 with ATF DW1 (except with an actual part instead of a fluid).

I understand that you want to do perform the recall yourself; however, since this is a safety issue (and Honda only allows trained techs to perform recalls) you'll more than likely have to have the recall performed which includes the tech inspecting the master switch to verify that it is corroded, order the replacement switch or install it if in stock, and reassembling the car. This shouldn't take longer than 20 to 30 minutes once the car leaves the service drive and gets to the tech unless of course the shop and/or parts is busy.

 

Glad you were able to get the window up. Props to loudbang for the diagram. Corroded switch will make inoperable due to CAN system. Switch no longer connects voltage to motor. Sends low voltage signal to ecu. Ecu makes motor move. The signal is a pulse (rapid on/off) at .5v. So little corrosin throws it off.

 

Plus 45 min drive to and 45 min back to the dealer! And if they are busy were talking 3+ hours . Not to mention due some serious financial cuts over the last few years both me and my wifes cars have been neglected!! I am just starting to catch up and put tires on the wifes van and getting ready to start fixing up my fit! Needs 4 tores an alignment, oil change, tune up, rear brakes, and rear struts. My plastic skid plate fot ripped off from driving in some really bad snow storms and getting it caught up!

So the switch is a minor issue that I can repair myself. I will be doing all the work I listed to except tires and alignment!

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!

 

Good deal you got it closed. And props for acknowledging that the advice given helped out.

 

I know this is an old post but now I've gone and done it! I replaced the switch last year and now it's dead! I jumped it a few times to get me by and last night it stopped working all together! Including the rear wiper motor! I am hoping it's the relay?? I tried swapping the relay under the hood with another relay and just tried the rear wiper and nothing! Is there a relay under dash for it? Everything else works except windows and rear wiper! Any help is appreciated!

 

Its probably a fuse under the dash. Each time you jumped it, you probably risked over amping the line, until the last time where it blew a fuse.

 

None of the windows work and rear wiper. Checked the fuses for windows they look intact .

 

#6 underhood, #15,16,17&29 under dash all deal with windows

#12 under dash is rear wiper.

checked those?

 

I checked 16,17,29 under dash all ok. I swapped 6 with the one next to it i don't have the diagram in front of me think it was #8? And that did not work but maybe it's not interchangeable?