Get final drive or lightened flywheel
#1
Get final drive or lightened flywheel
I am driving a GE8
Would like my car to rev faster but not suffer too much during cruising.
Looking at mfactory products
4.68 FD and flywheel
Any advice from gurus?
Would like my car to rev faster but not suffer too much during cruising.
Looking at mfactory products
4.68 FD and flywheel
Any advice from gurus?
#3
my oe clutch will be changing soon.
therefore i would like to change either fd or flywheel together with clutch to save labour time
therefore i would like to change either fd or flywheel together with clutch to save labour time
#5
I ran a lw flywheel on my gti for 4 years and never had an issue with it at all I enjoyed the upgrade alot on that car however, I ran one on my civic hatch it was ok not as big of a change like how it was on my gti.
#8
Do you really think in this day of "uncontrolled litigation" a company would sell a part that would "explode" easier than the part it is replacing?
The lighter the flywheel there is LESS chance of exploiding because there is less weight being acted on by centrifugal force simple physics.
The Fit engine doesn't come anywhere close to revving high enough to get into the range where "exploding" a flywheel becomes a concern.
There are a bunch of members on here that have installed a lightweight flywheel and they are still happy with the results after many many miles and not one exploded or wore out.
#9
I just went to the tracks. Here is what I would recommend
1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits
2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast
3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing
4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!
5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits
2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast
3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing
4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!
5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
#10
I just went to the tracks. Here is what I would recommend
1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits
2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast
3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing
4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!
5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
1) Grab a lighter flywheel. These motors rev just fine, so no need to drop like 6-7 pounds. 3-4 pounds would be perfect for retaining near stock comfort, but still get benefits
2) Figure out a way to fight heat soak. My car ran a fastest time of 16.3, but after heatsoak set in, I could only manage high 17s and 18s, even with idling with the heater on blast
3) my DIY intake that I have pictures of in my album gave me some response and engine noise so you can now finally hear what the damn engine is doing
4) SCREW A FINAL DRIVE. The transmission is plenty short on these cars. Do you really feel the need to make this thing hit the redline in 5th under 100mph? screw that crap!
5) get to know your car. Do this step before anythign else. If you know your car, you would not even bother looking up final drives or gearsets. Honda did an amazing job on the fit's manual. It shifted great, crispy even, all night at the drags
tks for advice there
#11
Hi All,
Sometime back I purchase at GD3 Final Drive formy GD3 but recently I change to a GE8 was wondering will the Final Drive of GD3 able to fit into the GE8 gearbox?
Any Kind soul to shared some light on this??
Thanks.
Sometime back I purchase at GD3 Final Drive formy GD3 but recently I change to a GE8 was wondering will the Final Drive of GD3 able to fit into the GE8 gearbox?
Any Kind soul to shared some light on this??
Thanks.
#12
WHAT???? Please post your sources for this nonsense. There is nothing that "wears" on a flywheel other than the drive face and there is no difference in that area between differing weights of flywheels.
Do you really think in this day of "uncontrolled litigation" a company would sell a part that would "explode" easier than the part it is replacing?
The lighter the flywheel there is LESS chance of exploiding because there is less weight being acted on by centrifugal force simple physics.
The Fit engine doesn't come anywhere close to revving high enough to get into the range where "exploding" a flywheel becomes a concern.
There are a bunch of members on here that have installed a lightweight flywheel and they are still happy with the results after many many miles and not one exploded or wore out.
Do you really think in this day of "uncontrolled litigation" a company would sell a part that would "explode" easier than the part it is replacing?
The lighter the flywheel there is LESS chance of exploiding because there is less weight being acted on by centrifugal force simple physics.
The Fit engine doesn't come anywhere close to revving high enough to get into the range where "exploding" a flywheel becomes a concern.
There are a bunch of members on here that have installed a lightweight flywheel and they are still happy with the results after many many miles and not one exploded or wore out.
#13
I can't imagine wanting a shorter final drive on these cars, and a flywheel isn't doing much to help you accelerate faster. It'll help the engine change speeds faster between gears. That's marginally useful on a road course, where you're changing gears a lot and want the engine to spin up and down fast. It's kind of fun on the street as well. However, the amount of rotational inertia of the flywheel is pretty small compared to 4 wheels and tires that each weight twice as much and have 3x the radius (inertia rises with the square of radius). Even with the engine spinning much faster than the wheels, your biggest acceleration bang for the buck is the wheels/tires. Not to mention the improved grip, improved ride quality, improved feel and improvement in suspension functioning due to lower unsprung weight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
yovtecjustkickedin
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
6
01-16-2017 04:55 PM
M@lew
General Fit Modifications Discussion
14
07-17-2014 12:27 AM