I recently purchased a base 2010 Tidewater Blue GE8 with a manual transmission, so far I am loving the car except for the drive by wire throttle and steering which feel lifeless to me, and the hideous wheelcovers that came stock

Fit Freak has been great help to me so far. Most of my questions have already been answered by you guys, and as per your recommendations I have fashioned a lower grille to protect the A/C compressor

, and used the washer trick to make the seat more comfortable. So to replace the steelies with wheelcovers I put some wheels that I used to have on my old Civic, they are 15in wheels from an integra and have wider (185/60/15R I think??)

They give the steering a little more feel and the wheels look good on the Fit IMO, and clear the calipers fine but what I was wondering was, are the stock lug nuts from the Base model ok to use with Alloy Wheels, they are different than any other lug nuts on any other car I have had, they seem small and aren't fully enclosed

can I use these with the new wheels or should I buy Chrome fully enclosed lugs like on the sport trim. I would need the acorn style of lug nut I believe and I think the size is 12 X 1.5 Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!

 

Yes you need acorn type lug nut, hope you don't drive alot cause your risking a wheel coming loose......no bueno

 

Forgive me, I'm a bit brain dead at the moment due to lack of sleep... however...

I'm almost certain you'd need a ball seat lug nut. Take off one of the lug nuts (even better the wheel) and inspect the seating area... Here's an image to help give you a visual idea of what I'm talking about in the rest of this post.



If its a rounded/ball seat, use ball seat lug nuts... if tapered/acorn seat, use the tapered nuts. The reason for this is to allow the lug nuts to have the maximum amount of surface area (allowed by the wheel's lug nut seat design) for the lug nut to sit in once the nut is tightened/torqued to spec.

Using a acorn/taper seat lug nut on a wheel designed for ball seats would not allow the lug nut to properly seat in the wheel (reduced surface contact between lug nut and wheel in other words) and potentially affect the amount of torque/how tight the lug nut is when being secured to the vehicle.

 

You need to do something now. Those lugnuts are NOT engaging enough threads on the studs to hold the wheels on safely.

 

Thanks for all the quick responses, I switched back to the stock wheels until I get the appropriate lug nuts. The stock ones are definitely the ball type, and the wheels feel like they need an acorn lug nut. When driving I felt a slight vibration at higher speeds so I went right back home to switch back. Am I correct in believing I need 12mm X 1.25 lug nuts, or does lug nut size depend on the wheel and not the car?

 

The lugnuts you had were fine. Do you think that enclosed lugnuts will magically make the studs longer? No, they will thread the same amount. If you had vibration it's because you didn't torque wheels right, wheels need to be balanced, or a wheel is bent (unlikely).

Those open end lugs sure do look ugly though

Just get ball lugs for Honda. Those are OEM Integra wheels.

 

Honda lug nuts arte 12x1.5 (12mm diameter x1.5 mm thread pitch). You need to inspect the wheels carefully to see what kind of lugnuts arerequired.. With the wheel off insert one of your lugnuts in a couple of the lugbolt holes and see if they wiggle at all. TYhere should be zero movement.
Unfortunately many Hondas have different lugnuts as OEM and I can't tell for sure which of your wheels are the rught nuts.
If you know the year and model of your old civic where the wheels came from you can contact tirerack to see what are the proper lugnuts. They can sell you the right ones as well but you can probably contact one of the lugnut sellers on ebay and get the same, perhaps for less.
good luck.

 

Horse pucky. You can clearly see those lugnuts are not engaging enough threads on the stud. Clearly those wheels are too thick for the stock studs it's not the lugs in this case it's the studs are too short for those wheels.

 

Any time the bolt end reaches the top of the nut when torqued the engagement is correct. The general rule is the engagement must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the bolt. The nuts shown are as good engagement as needed to meet full fastening specs because lug nuts are fabricated to have threads equal to or greater than the diameter of the bolt it fits.
As an added concern make sure the new nuts have enough depth of the threads to not 'bottom' out on the top of the lugnut. In your case I don't think thats a problem.

 

you need to get that corrected.
Regardless of the mahout's theory, A practical problem is many reputable shops are going to refuse to work on your car or refuse to let you leave with lugnuts in that shape.

And do you really want to be switching tires just to get any work done, or get turned away or raped for a lot of money when you need emergency service and they refuse to release your car without proper wheels?

 

That's not a theory, that's a generally accepted engineering rule regarding bolts, nuts, lugnuts, whatever. Easy way is if you can get 6.5 turns on the nut you're good (this is for Honda, it changes with bolt size of course).

IDK, it seems like Honda has been using the same bolt design since the early 80's, I question if the Integra hub bolt length is different than the Fit's. I know there are a few OEM bolts that are longer than normal but I don't think this is one of those applications.
90113-SA0-025 OEM Honda Parts Wheel (Nagoya Rashi) Bolt

If he's still worried about it gonna have to ditch the wheels or get extended studs, but getting extended studs for OEM wheels is retarded

You could just get close ended lugs and nobody would know or care.

 

Checked for sure, the lug nuts and wheels are both ball set, but the Integra wheels are thicker than the stock steel ones, could the fact that not enough threads were being engaged be the reason for the slight vibrations because when I put the wheels away for winter they were balanced fine? I think that since enough threads aren't being engaged I'll probably just sell the wheels on craigslist because I don't wan't to compromise safety even if its only minimally, then save up for some decent 15in wheels that wont be too thick for the studs off tirerack with snow tires and then just swap the tires so the snows are on the steelies.

 

Its not just an accepted rule, its an engineering standard. Consult SAE or any Machinist Handbook.
And you have to be careful about less thread engagement that equals the diameter; often the first two threads are tapered and thus already are at the thin edge of fastening strength. Good thing there's a built-in safety facxtor - sometimes.

 

Great that you figured that out. You need either longer studs (expensive) or thinner wheels (also expensive) but it's great to see you are choosing safety over "coolness".

There is just not enough threads being engaged in the present form. You can tell just by looking at the lugnuts and see that the end of the studs DO NOT protrude from the lugnut. Set up like this will NOT pass any racing sanctioning body inspection or state MVD safety inspections no matter what the people here are telling you.