LOL at the two of you. You two don't know the inside of an engine much do you? IF you did you would know the the oil wrapped around the crank comes from the "Mist" of oil in the crankcase created by the spinning crankshaft and other moving parts not liquid oil.

The crank in no way has to physically touch or dip into the liquid oil to wrap itself with more than normal oil buildup. The partial vacuum, or lower pressure, around the spinning crank causes the excess oil, yes EVEN half an inch, to move toward the lower pressure in turn to be caught and wrapped around the spinning crank.

That is why all car manufactures bother to mark or even have a dipstick if it wasn't needed they wouldn't warn in the owners manuals against over filling you could just dump in as much as you felt like.

Since you are the so called go to "expert" are here why do you think they make higher capacity oil pans for drag racing? If you say for extra capacity you would be incorrect they are used to lower the liquid oil FURTHER FROM THE CRANK just to prevent this problem. Back to you in LA LA land

Don't take my word for in in a one minute search found these out of many many pages of the same thing;

From here http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...y/viewall.html


Crankshafts and Windage
Even the use of dry-sump oiling systems does not prevent crankshafts from being influenced by the migration of engine oil from the crankcase to pan. It’s a given that oil will become attached to a spinning crankshaft, adding to its “dynamic” weight and inertial resistance. In fact, high speed photography reveals that the oil can look like toffee rope wrapped around the spinning crankshaft. By the use of various oil pan devices, attached oil can be physically removed from crankshaft surfaces. And since tapered edges tend to release/shed oil more easily that “squared off” portions, the shaping of counterweights is another common method of addressing the problem. Special coatings, of the type that reduce surface tension, applied to crank throws and counterweights can also be used. But in any event, assume that oil passing by the crankshaft and pulses of air created by rapidly descending pistons and the volume of air entrapped up inside them will combine to increase the importance of reducing the amount of oil that becomes a “passenger” at high crank rpm.


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/199561...camaro/page-9/

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...s/viewall.html

 

No.. clearly I know nothing of how an engine operates

I only build and tune the fucking things. I work in multiple car communities, and I've designed/spec'd more turbo Fit's alone than you will do oil changes in the lifespan of yours.

Thanks, Dr. Google.

 

Are SB and his large son giving you lessons in logic? What the hell do
trucks in the middle of an arctic winter have to do with oil changes in the lower 48 during springtime?

(by the by, if said trucks don't have a plug-in crankcase oil heater, 0W20 is going to be like glue too)

 

I missed several posts to my email but whatever

Extra oil amounting to less then a quart over will not hurt anything. Honda isnt dumb as a box of rocks. They understand idiots exist everywhere.

Biggest reason they overengineer a lot of their equipment, both on the road and off the road.


Someone stated a larger oilpan is to keep the oil away from the crank. Are you high as hell? Extra oil capacity is a COOLING TECHNIQUE. The idea is more oil means it heats up slower and overall temperature of said oil stays more consistent.

Given Oil provides anywhere from 20-50% of your engines cooling power, Id say its damn important. Hence why I an ever persistent on finding a cheap OEM oilpan out there to modify for my needs

 

wat

Also wat? What pan?


I can see mahout's point about higher viscosity oil putting more work on the pump and creating parasitic losses. Don't think it applies much to the OP because i'm sure whatever oil they may have accidentally used it wouldn't be much thicker than 20 weight, 30 at most, not a big deal.

All this about overfilling and crankshaft losses is speculation and is motor dependent. I do not know how much clearance there is on the L15 between the crank and oil in the pan. Does anyone here? There are some cars that the manufacturer recommends overfilling in some situations (racing) due to pan and oil pickup design. If the crank is not hitting the oil it's not a big deal.

 

How come there is always a huge argument in oil or oil related theads? It's like this on every forum I been to lol.

And to mr loud bang, they don't put high capacity oil pans on drag cars to lower the oil dufus, I used to work for a firm that built drag cars and they ran dry sump on their drag cars because the g forced created by the launch would pretty much wipe the engine out when the sump loses it oil pool. Some racers run special oil pans with flaps on the ends to keep the oil centered around hard forces but that's mostly for cars that corner hard.

And 13fit is correct, larger pans are made to let the oil cool in the pan longer before it gets passed back into the engine, it really has nothing to do with windage issues.

 

Don't agree; I don't get a sense of acrimony in oil threads as much as octane threads.

 

what what

LOL guessing you didn't even bother to read the links. It you did you would have LEARNED that the crank DOESN'T even have to be hitting the liquid oil to create this problem.

But thanks for the attempt.

 

LOL all that work and you still don't know what is going on inside an engine and your post proves just that. This is not some sort of "secret knowledge" in the "community" you claim to be part of it's simple first year knowledge for any compatent engine builder and has been for years. Any engine builder with a modicum of knowledge of his trade would not have the need for this to be explained to them they already know it .

For sure I had to put some stuff from google. I knew what I was talking about but had to show the less knowledgeable people some proof they could have read for themselves. give it a try.

 

...........

 

Another one that didn't learn much "working in a race shop" what did you do there answer phones LOL. And try reading the links to educate yourself so you would understand what we are discussing.

First and foremost "Dry sump" if you were so knowledgeable to be able comment intelligently you would know a pan system and a dry sump system ARE TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF SYSTEMS. dufus

 

well, ok then, that added to the acrimony. Up to the level of a high octane thread. Congrats.

 

I love internet experts like you.



Tell my clients that and see what they have to say once they stop laughing in your face long enough to catch their breath.

 

I have to imagine you picked that log-in because a "loudbang" followed by a metal shower is all you hear after putting load on anything you've built the first time.

All assuming you've ever assembled something besides a forum post of course.

 

LOL use some logic for a change instead of attacks on the poster. Note that "you guys" haven't provided anything in the way of a counter argument with data proving your theories and dis-proving mine.

Honda has several committees that do nothing but sit around all day debating the merits of using a 2 cent bolt in place of a 3 cent bolt just so they can save a penny a unit. Now if they are so concerned about cost per unit they argue about saving a PENNY. Got it yet?

So why would they spend about $30.00 a unit installing a windage tray in each Fit engine and the design and production costs if the windage tray didn't provide positive return in performance vs cost including FUEL MILEAGE when they worry over EVERY PENNY? Riddle me that with some FACTS for a change.

 

Well if "they" had any facts to back their position and relied on them instead of just attacking and name calling anybody with a proven position there would be one whole lot less acrimony don't you think??? Then we would be having a nice quiet discussion on the merits of each position And it would be a short discussion because this is basic engine building 101 and should be known already to anyone claiming to build engines. And it would add to the OPs questions about his problem with overfilling his engine with oil.

 

This would be the thread to discussing the benefit of using a fumoto valve. OP if you had one you could drain off that excess oil in a few minutes and problem solved.

 

I have developed a policy of not arguing with obsessed lunatics on the interwebs. I'll let my results speak for themselves

 

Not to worry, DS Monster has long since passed into baffle them with BS territory. He likes to hang out here as too few call him on his nonsense. Carry on.

 

Your policy reeks of fail.