Engine Noise. Should i be concerned?
#1
Engine Noise. Should i be concerned?
Hey. Just wanted to see if anyone has encountered anything similar to what i am hearing in my 09' Fit. I have a manual transmission and i have noticed in lower RPM's i am hearing what sounds like either air intake noise or some kind of rattling chain sound. I am fimiliar with noises caused by extremely low rpm's that sound more like the engine clunking but thats not what is happening. Anyone else know anything about this????? Thanks!
I should also add that this sound is heard while accelerating.
I should also add that this sound is heard while accelerating.
Last edited by Ryan2020; 01-17-2013 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Missing important info
#2
My '09 Sport MT does the same thing. I think that it's normal. But I take it as a sign that I'm lugging the engine when I hear that, and so avoid doing so. Basically I don't ask the engine for any substantial torque below about 2.5K RPM.
#4
If what you are describing is engine knock, you could do damage to the engine. Higher revolutions are needed.
Or you could put higher octane gas in it. (now I need to kill myself).
I hope you're just hearing the drive-train and exhaust noise. It's a noisy little bugger. Get someone else to ride with you and get another opinion.
Or you could put higher octane gas in it. (now I need to kill myself).
I hope you're just hearing the drive-train and exhaust noise. It's a noisy little bugger. Get someone else to ride with you and get another opinion.
#5
I thought the same thing (low rpm high load) but thought the ECU would be able to handle that pretty quickly? I guess it would take a second to do so though.
Alternatively, valve noise.
Alternatively, valve noise.
#6
I would think so too, but severely lugging the engine it may not be able to retard timing enough to compensate. I'd hope this would almost be at the point of stalling though.
The knock sensors and ECU react quickly enough (milliseconds) that you would never hear knocking normally.
I think valve-train noise is more likely; rattling chain could describe it.
Knocking is more like rattling a ball bearing in a can.
The knock sensors and ECU react quickly enough (milliseconds) that you would never hear knocking normally.
I think valve-train noise is more likely; rattling chain could describe it.
Knocking is more like rattling a ball bearing in a can.
#7
This is the sort of noise I hear; definitely not knock. It might be resonance with the exhaust system Anyway, that's my best guess
#9
No definitely not knocking. And i am fimiliar with the honda engine ticking noise. What i am hearing is what sounds like the car gasping for air but almost metallic sounding when i am accelerating semi heavily from a lower rpm but not too low to be the dying clunk sound. I really wish i had a better way of describing it.
#10
No definitely not knocking. And i am fimiliar with the honda engine ticking noise. What i am hearing is what sounds like the car gasping for air but almost metallic sounding when i am accelerating semi heavily from a lower rpm but not too low to be the dying clunk sound. I really wish i had a better way of describing it.
maybe it's the cam chain?
#12
No definitely not knocking. And i am fimiliar with the honda engine ticking noise. What i am hearing is what sounds like the car gasping for air but almost metallic sounding when i am accelerating semi heavily from a lower rpm but not too low to be the dying clunk sound. I really wish i had a better way of describing it.
#13
Does the Fit engine use a cam chain? On my boxer BMW bike there was often chain noise at cold startup, as oil had drained away from it overnight. Noise went away in a few moments after startup as oil got things lubricated better. BMW actually redesigned the left chain lubrication stuff to avoid it. (This was on a 2002 R1150-RTP cop bike, but was a very common problem.)
#15
I hear the same noise with my 2010 Fit Sport; a rattling sound when it's in low gears - between 2nd and 3rd; sometimes 4th. Usually when I come to stop, then give gas to get going, makes noise in between those shifts. Doesn't do it all the time and if I give lots of gas when taking off, it doesn't do it. Had my brother-in-law ride w/me to hear it and, of course, it only did it once (does it all the time with me), and he said it sounded like a diesel engine. Sometimes, the sound is very faint, sometimes louder. I can feel it in the car when it does it. Been doing it about a month. Any ideas anyone??? Also, had oil change yesterday and was showed my transmission oil was black and needed changing. Had brother-in-law check and it was still pink!! Anyway, when is time to get transmission oil changed? I have 30,177 miles and live in OK; lots of weather changes and I do a lot of stop-and-go driving. Thanks for any help!!
#16
There is a transient noise on automatic Fits that occurs 2nd 3rd (and perhaps at other times). It does it more when the car is first warming up in the day.
It seems to go away with a transmission fluid change. This may be explained by the fact that Honda introduced a new synthetic fluid (designated DW-1) that performs better. It's in 2011 Fits and newer, and is fully compatible with older Hondas.
Normal transmission fluid changes are flagged by the maintenance minder. The first not being until sometime way after 60,000 miles.
But a lot of people feel good (me included) about changing it every 30K, especially if you have the older type fluid from the factory.
I'd describe the noise as fluid rushing or depressurizing through a valve. It sounds mechanical, almost. Some have described it as a grinding noise.
I don't think it indicates a problem, but it seems to go away with the newer type fluid.
Beware though, a change only changes 2.6 quarts out of 6.2 total. One quart costs lest than $10. Honda dealers are overcharging for this service. $60-$70 is reasonable. Only Honda sells the fluid. It's an easy DIY if you or someone you know doesn't mind getting underneath the car.
The shop that showed you "black fluid" is dishonest. Stay away from them.
It seems to go away with a transmission fluid change. This may be explained by the fact that Honda introduced a new synthetic fluid (designated DW-1) that performs better. It's in 2011 Fits and newer, and is fully compatible with older Hondas.
Normal transmission fluid changes are flagged by the maintenance minder. The first not being until sometime way after 60,000 miles.
But a lot of people feel good (me included) about changing it every 30K, especially if you have the older type fluid from the factory.
I'd describe the noise as fluid rushing or depressurizing through a valve. It sounds mechanical, almost. Some have described it as a grinding noise.
I don't think it indicates a problem, but it seems to go away with the newer type fluid.
Beware though, a change only changes 2.6 quarts out of 6.2 total. One quart costs lest than $10. Honda dealers are overcharging for this service. $60-$70 is reasonable. Only Honda sells the fluid. It's an easy DIY if you or someone you know doesn't mind getting underneath the car.
The shop that showed you "black fluid" is dishonest. Stay away from them.
#17
Thank you Steve244 for your response. I did read about the fluid discontinuation in other posts after I posted my questions. I have a brother-in-law that told me he would change the fluid for me so I don't have to pay someone. I also did some reading on other posts about the time to change the fluid and it seems the consensus is around 30,000 miles. So, sounds like a fluid change is in order for my girl. Hopefully, that will stop the noise. Thank you again for your help .. is appreciated
#18
Update to rattle noise - Transmission fluid was changed on Friday evening, 1/25, with the new ATF DW-1 fluid. Have driven car several times since; the noise is still there, but very faintly, and I can't feel it anymore (like I used to). My Fitster seems to drive better (shifting) and I'm hoping it just takes some driving to get the fluid throughout the transmission. Still hoping the noise will completely go away with more driving.
#19
It took a few days to settle down for me. With colder conditions it may benefit from another transmission fluid drain/fill as less than half is changed with each drain fill. 3 cycles seems to be about the most cost effective.
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