Got 91,xxx hard miles on my 09. While I have minimal reason to want to do this, I'm scraping some cash together to do the following to it once it hits 100k:

- replace atf fluid and coolant
- replace o rings on fuel injectors and check them out (not sure how to do that part yet)
- replace fuel filter (100k is alot on gas)
- possible valve adjustment again (try doing it every 30)


Of this list I may let honda do whatever is too much of a pain in the ass.
Looking at the service manual, I think the fuel filter falls into that category....

what do you think that will run me?

 

Fuel filter? uh, never. Unless fuel pressure is low (think it would throw a code). It's not like the good old days when it was undoing the fuel connection at the carburetor and popping in a new element. I think it's considered permanent today unless you get bad gas, and then you'd be dropping the tank and cleaning it out.

Injector o-rings sounds like something that could wait until it needs it. This is probably more age related than miles, although I've never had it done on any of my cars (3 at ten years plus in the last 5).

I'd go by the maintenance minder on the other items. Although I'm conflicted on ATF drain fills (I admit to doing this twice and I'm only at 50K, but my rationalization is changing to the better DW-1 Honda ATF fluid).

I think valve adjustment is something Honda oversold, and now they're eating their advice. On my 97 Odyssey it was, "we recommend doing it every 30K miles." By 2007 this had changed to, "do it if it needs it," but it was only a $200 job on the Odyssey (4cyl, easy access). On the Fit, since it involves more time and effort, I'd go by the latter advice. If I thought it needed adjusting every 30K I'd be buying a Mazda with hydraulic lifters. This will be a strong consideration the next time I buy a car.

I aim to do the valve adjustment when changing the plugs (somewhere over 100K). If Honda does this (plugs and adjustment) it seems like a $400 job. Having experienced this (valve adjustment), how do you feel about doing this yourself, Santiad?

 

ATF and coolant, you could easily drain/replace yourself. Search this forum for the DIY's. The DW-1 ATF costs around $5.50 - $8.00/quart and the Honda coolant is from $13 - $20/gallon.

I've never done a o-ring replacement on the injector, so don't have any input for you.

To get access to the fuel filter, you will have to pull the "fuel tank unit" - a combination of fuel pump/filter/gauge/etc out of the fuel tank by accessing the unit inside the fuel tank, under the center console. I haven't pulled one out of a Honda Fit, but did it for another Asian brand, and it was a painful process because 1) it was my first time 2) forgot to transfer one of O-ring that prevented the car from starting and forced me to redo. My recommendation is to wait until someone posts a DIY or take it to a good mechanic. As Steve244 stated, I wouldn't worry about the fuel filter unless you get a code.

Personally, I would leave the valve adjustment alone unless you notice one of the symptoms requiring valve adjustment: (search this forum).

 

Changing the fuel filter is a good practice at 100K. The fuel pump is a 2 stage and with ethanol I would do it. Waiting for a code the damage is already done. Changing the trans fluid is also good. In my old Civic with 30000 miles, I already noticed the shifting changes and mpg falling. Coolant too is good to change along with the brake fluid. If you run the recommended oil and use the MM, valve adjustment should last 50000 miles but if you race a lot and rev the motor a lot adjusting them sooner is better or when symptoms occur.

Here is a paper on maintenance items. http://bochstatic.com/bochimages/new...s/Maintain.PDF


http://www.honda.com.sg/cars/service...ePriceList.pdf

 

regarding fuel filter.
I believe this may depend on your choices on filling gas. If you've always gotten your gas at stations with older equipment and relatively unmaintained, then maybe you have more crap in your tank. But if you always go to newer stations or those with decent amount of sales volume, then you won't have a problem. Notice I didn't say anything about fuel price or about top-tierness.

For all those on the internet saying doom and gloom and the bottom of your gas tank is full of sludge...and if you drive with an empty tank you suck up all the gunk, I surmise have never actually looked into a fuel tank and just building up hype based on hearsay and no actual experience.

I recently replaced a fuel filter on another of my cars at 120k miles(at 20mpg), and peeked in. The tank just is a pure clean metal tank in there with no gunk on the bottom. In the sock(prefilter) there were only 2grains of grit. I cut open the filter, and it looks dark to begin with, but that was from the fuel. Let it dry out and it looks just like paper cardboard. Not full of sludge or anything.
This was based on 10years of buying from your typical toptier stations (chevron/shell) that more than anything seemed to be well-maintained stations.

 

So a 5 year old description of Honda maintenance stored on a server registered to Subaru of New England, and a price list from a Singapore Honda dealer signify what, exactly, bullet?

That we should all run out and do everything described in that brochure and pay Singapore prices?

Glad to know you're still relevant.

 

To the best of my knowledge, you don't replace the fuel filter unless it goes bad. It's inside the gas tank and I think it's connected to the fuel pump.

 

Its a shame that there is not more info online and you have to get it from another part of the world. My point is its relevant wherever it came from and even changing the fuel filter is important even if its in the fuel tank.

 

Per my point, Steve244's argument is valid because fuel in other parts of the world is not the same as the US.

As an analogy, for the human body, if your meals are typically from 7-11 and McDonalds' you probably have poor health and diarrhea as compared to someone who has been eating the stereotype of a balanced healthy meal.

So, I personally probably won't change my fuel filter when I hit 100k. If you think the fuel that you've used for the past 100k is questionable, maybe you go ahead and do it, in the long I guess it's not a big deal or relative huge cost. But for argument's sake I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

 

So I should use the service guidelines of a Singapore dealer to do maintenance? I don't even follow the local guy's advice.

On the fuel filter, it's not a maintenance item. If fuel pressure is below specs, the Honda service manual recommends replacing the filter AFTER the pressure regulator and pump are determined to be OK. link

 

yah, ive not had to replace fuel filters on my cars. i doubt you need it replaced on these modern cars driven in the US.

 

MY FIT Guide To Keep it running well

As far as maintenance goes. i just hit 16,010
Brake fluids changed every 50 k
Tranny fluid drained and replaced every 20k
Coolant every 75k
Oil every 4k or so
COIL PAKCS 100k
Water pump thermostat serpentine belt and all hoses changed at 100k miles or so (preventive)
Valve adjustment gunna do at like 100k

 

If you have fuels with an ethanol component, you should consider it.. I figure I'll have made up my mind on whether the Fit needs it or not when I get the rest of the fuel system together and take a look at the tank and stock filter while they are out of the car.

Granted, most of the posters on this forum do not drive performance vehicles that are as sensitive to fuel system inefficiency and would probably not notice the difference. Ever see the gelling and other precipitates that build up on power sports equipment, boats, tractors etc that sit for a while? Same principal applies and is why they have signs at dock pumps stating "no ethanol."

Does not necessarily require the vehicle sitting for extended periods either.

A stock 370Z is not really a performance vehicle in my mind. Sorry, but it isn't. A nice car either way though.

Last time I changed out the element in the SS Golan fuel filter on the DSM I watched my IDCs decrease a tad more than 5% on pump gas, trims went negative and my open-loop AF went almost a point richer on an otherwise untouched tune. At that point it had only been a year since I switched to the -8AN lines from the stock hardlines, and that was when I switched to the Golan filter as well.

Enough fuel was now able to flow at the same combined rail pressure that a haze coming out the exhaust turned into a black smoke under WOT and full boost. EGTs went up as a result.

The build up of gelling was so slow I never noticed I was adding more fuel to compensate for the filter build up on top of adding airflow.

A friend in the industry suggested they may be from a component of the top-lube/oil added to the fuel when they combine gasoline with the alcohol and not necessarily the ethanol its self.

Meaning that even E10 would contain it and it would be worse on E85/98.

Methanol develops a black tar from the top-lube additives that don't mix. Even groups like Marvel Mystery oil have warnings on the container when using on alky motors.

 

what does a 370Z have to do with a fuel filter on a Fit? lol
you take your meds this am?

and dont worry, your post doesnt mean much to 370Z owners anyway.

 

in your case, since you hit the canyons often you might want to change your brake fluid once every year or every other year depending on how much down hill you do. your pedal will become mushy.

and i think you can go longer on the tranny fluid.

 

thats what i was thinking

 

Because I quoted you, and used this sentence: Granted, most of the posters on this forum do not drive performance vehicles that are as sensitive to fuel system inefficiency and would probably not notice the difference.

I expected your rebuttal of "well I probably wouldn't have to do it on my Z either" qualifying it as a performance vehicle.

I don't expect it to mean much to Z owners, as they don't tend to understand much anyways

"B-b-but the sleeves are good to 900horsepowerzz!"

Yes, but the rods will reliably bend around 400whp, even on a conservative tune

Which is about verbatim a conversation I actually had to have with a client.

Getting the ring that's pressed into the nose of the crank off the auto's was a bitch and a half as well..

The 37 is much more refined than the the 35 buzzy coffee grinder feel, I'll give it that

 

huh? i didnt post that. scroll up.

My post at 11:04 am: "yah, ive not had to replace fuel filters on my cars. i doubt you need it replaced on these modern cars driven in the US."

so i ask again, did you take your meds this am? lol
anyway, it's sad to see you get all worked up like that even if it wasn't me posting it. though you had more composure to your own emotions.

 

Not worked up in the least, appreciate your concern though!

Post # 13 - I quote you

Post #17 - I use this phrase: "Granted, most of the posters on this forum do not drive performance vehicles that are as sensitive to fuel system inefficiency and would probably not notice the difference." and pre-empt a response about your 370z coming with it, as no doubt you presume it to be a "performance" vehicle

Then I went, got more coffee, took a phone call and created this post.

Edit: I can see where you would mistake me for being upset, as you were apparently hurt enough to ding me rep for an offhand comment. So now who's "pathetic?" lol

You need thicker skin, Ken. Not sure who the "them" you are referring to in that little love note you sent me happen to be though.

 

I believe Davie223 is right about the being connected to the fuel pump. The fuel pump in is in the tank which isn't hard to get to, unless the auto Fit are different then the manuals. If you take out your center console out you have access to the tank. i would take on one of the seats and lay down some type of protection so you don't spill fuel everywhere.