2012 Paint quality...
#22
Correct, NuFinish is a polish not a wax. It does however contain polymers that bond to the clear coat to protect it, and that shouldn't break down as fast as waxes. I believe it was one of the first clear coat polishes. I've used it on every vehicle I've owned, except my old Miata because that car wasn't clear coated.
Another product I like in addition to NuFinish is Liquid Lustre.
I've tried every damn thing out there, I always go back to NuFinish or Liquid Lustre because nothing works better than those two and I have to polish the car half as much. They're also half the price.
Another product I like in addition to NuFinish is Liquid Lustre.
I've tried every damn thing out there, I always go back to NuFinish or Liquid Lustre because nothing works better than those two and I have to polish the car half as much. They're also half the price.
If you want latest and greatest the next generational shift is nano-glass/silicon/quartz type products. This is truly something different (but costly also).
At least poke around autopia or other detailing forums, nufinish is good, but at it's best it's just the best in the mass-market consumer tier. There are plenty of threads you can find that will say get xyz instead for just a few bucks more for an even better result.
#23
IMO the Fit's paint is TERRIBLY thin, but I don't have any application issues (missing clearcoat, showing primer, etc).
I'd take it back to the dealership, they'll probably fix it for you if it's still under warranty. If not i'd call corporate.
I'd take it back to the dealership, they'll probably fix it for you if it's still under warranty. If not i'd call corporate.
#24
My fit has less than 30k on it and every time I washed it I noticed more and more imperfections. So much that when I had some I took it in for a small fender bender on the rear bumper, I had them re-paint the entire front end. And it wasn't just a chipping issue either. I know especially low cars can get a lot of rock chips. But my car was fading heavily in quite a few spots, ie. fog light indents, and the area under the grille. in my opinion there is no reason for a car that new to be doing that. Especially for how meticulous I am about taking care of the paint.
#25
Yeah, I'm hoping the paint isn't as thin as you guys say. Makes me look bad
Not to big a deal though, I'll just have my Bro repaint it for a nominal fee. probably put a good thick and possibly darker orange paint on it. I have a 2012 burnt orange and it looks really good in the evening when it picks up a lot more blue tint from the setting sun.
My neighbor has an older fit, I think it's an 07 but not sure. Paint is holding up reasonably well on it and he's pushing 120k.
Not to big a deal though, I'll just have my Bro repaint it for a nominal fee. probably put a good thick and possibly darker orange paint on it. I have a 2012 burnt orange and it looks really good in the evening when it picks up a lot more blue tint from the setting sun.
My neighbor has an older fit, I think it's an 07 but not sure. Paint is holding up reasonably well on it and he's pushing 120k.
Last edited by gdhi11; 07-02-2012 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Forgot something
#26
How about Meguire's "cleaner wax"? As long as we're on the topic
I've used the in the past and been quite happy - but always with cars which have at least 50k miles on the finish ... :/ ... still applicable to new car?
I've used the in the past and been quite happy - but always with cars which have at least 50k miles on the finish ... :/ ... still applicable to new car?
#27
I don't think it would necessarily be bad for the paint but I just don't like using abrasives when the paint is in good shape. Same curing process voodoo applies regardless. :P
#28
I did a bunch of research today and am changing to Meguiars Ultimate Wax (really a paint sealer).
Meguiars Professional Car Care Products : Meguiars Distributor
Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
Meguiars Professional Car Care Products : Meguiars Distributor
Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
Mcguires cleaner wax is really good at dealing with a car that's got some miles and needs some extra attention. I wouldn't use it on a new car because it does contain a mild abrasive to help smooth out clear/paint spots that are somewhat rough.
I don't think it would necessarily be bad for the paint but I just don't like using abrasives when the paint is in good shape. Same curing process voodoo applies regardless. :P
I don't think it would necessarily be bad for the paint but I just don't like using abrasives when the paint is in good shape. Same curing process voodoo applies regardless. :P
Last edited by AC7880; 07-03-2012 at 01:56 AM.
#29
here's the scoop. Due to laws on VOCs in paints, Pretty much all paint on new cars is "worse" and less durable than older cars where they could use the less enviro-friendly paint. This goes across the board regardless of make.
If the OP is still around, the "thin" spots or parts that didn't get fully painted a flaw in the painting process though and different from above. I don't think it's worth trying to fix it, maybe you can negotiate for some other service in exchange.
As a side note, dry cleaning also had chemicals banned, so pretty much all drycleaning should be "green" too despite the advertisements. Still are better off with a drycleaner who has jumped on the green bandwagon earlier and had more experience with the equipment/process.
If the OP is still around, the "thin" spots or parts that didn't get fully painted a flaw in the painting process though and different from above. I don't think it's worth trying to fix it, maybe you can negotiate for some other service in exchange.
As a side note, dry cleaning also had chemicals banned, so pretty much all drycleaning should be "green" too despite the advertisements. Still are better off with a drycleaner who has jumped on the green bandwagon earlier and had more experience with the equipment/process.
Last edited by raytseng; 07-03-2012 at 02:27 PM.
#30
here's the scoop. Due to laws on VOCs in paints, Pretty much all paint on new cars is "worse" and less durable than older cars where they could use the less enviro-friendly paint. This goes across the board regardless of make.
If the OP is still around, the "thin" spots or parts that didn't get fully painted a flaw in the painting process though and different from above. I don't think it's worth trying to fix it, maybe you can negotiate for some other service in exchange.
As a side note, dry cleaning also had chemicals banned, so pretty much all drycleaning should be "green" too despite the advertisements. Still are better off with a drycleaner who has jumped on the green bandwagon earlier and had more experience with the equipment/process.
If the OP is still around, the "thin" spots or parts that didn't get fully painted a flaw in the painting process though and different from above. I don't think it's worth trying to fix it, maybe you can negotiate for some other service in exchange.
As a side note, dry cleaning also had chemicals banned, so pretty much all drycleaning should be "green" too despite the advertisements. Still are better off with a drycleaner who has jumped on the green bandwagon earlier and had more experience with the equipment/process.
#31
Even on the hatch, the outside looks great, the inside is just a thin coat of paint and no clearcoat. Is that the way it is on everyone else's? Every other car I've owned had full paint/clearcoat in such spots. It's not going to "go bad" over time or anything, it just looks cheap.
I'm waiting for cargo liner I ordered to come in, when I take the car back this weekend I plan to show it to them.
#32
Yeah, the only way to "fix" would be to do stuff like take the doors off and spray the B-pillars.
Even on the hatch, the outside looks great, the inside is just a thin coat of paint and no clearcoat. Is that the way it is on everyone else's? Every other car I've owned had full paint/clearcoat in such spots. It's not going to "go bad" over time or anything, it just looks cheap.
I'm waiting for cargo liner I ordered to come in, when I take the car back this weekend I plan to show it to them.
Even on the hatch, the outside looks great, the inside is just a thin coat of paint and no clearcoat. Is that the way it is on everyone else's? Every other car I've owned had full paint/clearcoat in such spots. It's not going to "go bad" over time or anything, it just looks cheap.
I'm waiting for cargo liner I ordered to come in, when I take the car back this weekend I plan to show it to them.
When you say the area is not fully painted, do you see the primer? Or is the surface fully painted the same color as the rest of your fit, but lacking the shiny clear top coat?
My car is fully painted but has no shine (clear coat?) in a few spots. Under my hood is not clear coated, nor the inside rear hatch. That may be the only two areas on my car. I have an 09.
I'm pretty sure the inside b pillars were coated, but it's been years, and I always wax...oops, seal them.
#33
Yes, on the B pillars about halfway down where the rubber from the backdoor meets the pillar, the paint is so thin the primer shows through. I've meant to take a photo, but never remember during the day.
#34
Just checked. All the paint on the inside of all the doors are not clear coated.
I believe the B pillar on my car is.
There is no primer showing anywhere. I have a red one and the hood has dozens, maybe a hundred small pinprick chips that are white. So I guess the primer is white on my color.
I believe the B pillar on my car is.
There is no primer showing anywhere. I have a red one and the hood has dozens, maybe a hundred small pinprick chips that are white. So I guess the primer is white on my color.
#35
After two years you will have mutiple (6-10) paint chips on the the front bumper, 3-5 on the hood and probably 1 or 2 on the pillars.
The paint is super thin and is very easily chipped, its a known issue by many on here
The paint is super thin and is very easily chipped, its a known issue by many on here
#36
Mcguires cleaner wax is really good at dealing with a car that's got some miles and needs some extra attention. I wouldn't use it on a new car because it does contain a mild abrasive to help smooth out clear/paint spots that are somewhat rough.
I don't think it would necessarily be bad for the paint but I just don't like using abrasives when the paint is in good shape. Same curing process voodoo applies regardless. :P
I don't think it would necessarily be bad for the paint but I just don't like using abrasives when the paint is in good shape. Same curing process voodoo applies regardless. :P
#37
This'll be my last paint post--I've got clear on my B-pillars and in the door jams. Under the hood--like new BMWs it's light clear/satin finish.
I still think a lot of people believe modern paint is a lot more durable than it is. You can be one of them or you can be smart about it--not trolling just saying I've seen a lot-definitely more than most.
#38
This is such a bummer to hear that the 2012 Fit paint might suck. Urg. I did notice like someone mentioned that the wheel wells are strange on this car, looks like they just painted over some caulking? Any aftermarket wheel well protection out there?
#39
Thanks!
M
#40
Since it's a "known issue" what are people doing to deal with it? What wash methods, products, wax, sealent, etc. are people using? I bought this car to drive not enclose in a "plastic bubble"! Every time I wash this car I find new chips. When I drive on the freeway I will not drive behind others (especially trucks) if I can help it, for fear that they will kick up rocks. I've already been bashed on here by haters telling me it's me...so please, none of that.
Thanks!
M
Thanks!
M
Yes it's extreme, but I'm really unhappy with it now.
Last edited by ninjaap; 08-26-2012 at 11:13 AM.