2011 Honda Fit Problems.
#1
2011 Honda Fit Problems.
I recently (three months ago) purchased a 2011 Honda Fit. It was used, had like 5k miles on it, great condition.
I'm experiencing some problems that I'm having a hard time getting diagnosed. I am getting different answers from different people - some even telling me there's no problem.
1. Starting is an issue about 90% of the time. If it's been sitting for hours (whether in hot or cold, does not matter), my car starts PERFECTLY. I have no issues. The more I use my car, however, the worse the start gets. It used to just be an issue where it would take a second or two longer to start than usual, but it's turned into an issue where it will not start. I have to try six or seven times sometimes to get the engine to turn over. It always sounds like it's going to start, but it doesn't. I can sit in a parking lot and start the car ten times in a row and it'll be great. But once I actually drive it for a few minutes? Starting it up again is a nightmare.
2. Rough idling. If I'm at a stop sign or a red light and I'm idling in drive, then my vehicle shakes very noticeably. If I slide it into neutral, it makes it a little bit better, but it doesn't solve the problem completely.
3. After I've experienced a rough start or a rough idle, I find it's difficult and slow to accelerate and get up to a normal driving speed. It does, eventually, but it takes longer and more effort than it should.
People have given me so many answers that I'm not sure where to turn. Some people tell me it's a fuel pump issue. Some people tell me it's an oxygen sensor issue. Some people tell me I'm crazy, it's normal, and I'm "starting my car wrong" (no joke, that's what one mechanic told me)
Anybody have any ideas? I'm really not a car person, but if you have any questions that I can answer that will help get this figured out, ask away! I'm so frustrated that I feel like I can't rely on this car when I need it on a daily basis. I'm always worried about whether or not it will start.
I'm experiencing some problems that I'm having a hard time getting diagnosed. I am getting different answers from different people - some even telling me there's no problem.
1. Starting is an issue about 90% of the time. If it's been sitting for hours (whether in hot or cold, does not matter), my car starts PERFECTLY. I have no issues. The more I use my car, however, the worse the start gets. It used to just be an issue where it would take a second or two longer to start than usual, but it's turned into an issue where it will not start. I have to try six or seven times sometimes to get the engine to turn over. It always sounds like it's going to start, but it doesn't. I can sit in a parking lot and start the car ten times in a row and it'll be great. But once I actually drive it for a few minutes? Starting it up again is a nightmare.
2. Rough idling. If I'm at a stop sign or a red light and I'm idling in drive, then my vehicle shakes very noticeably. If I slide it into neutral, it makes it a little bit better, but it doesn't solve the problem completely.
3. After I've experienced a rough start or a rough idle, I find it's difficult and slow to accelerate and get up to a normal driving speed. It does, eventually, but it takes longer and more effort than it should.
People have given me so many answers that I'm not sure where to turn. Some people tell me it's a fuel pump issue. Some people tell me it's an oxygen sensor issue. Some people tell me I'm crazy, it's normal, and I'm "starting my car wrong" (no joke, that's what one mechanic told me)
Anybody have any ideas? I'm really not a car person, but if you have any questions that I can answer that will help get this figured out, ask away! I'm so frustrated that I feel like I can't rely on this car when I need it on a daily basis. I'm always worried about whether or not it will start.
#2
Rough idling. If I'm at a stop sign or a red light and I'm idling in drive, then my vehicle shakes very noticeably. If I slide it into neutral, it makes it a little bit better, but it doesn't solve the problem completely.
However, for the most part I would say you have an engine issue...possibly a clogged fuel injector. Have you tried using an injector cleaner. Otherwise it should be under warranty...I would take it in and let a Honda shop go over it. I have zero issues in starting...starts right up.
Last edited by Spacecoast; 06-12-2012 at 05:04 PM.
#3
It used to just be an issue where it would take a second or two longer to start than usual, but it's turned into an issue where it will not start. I have to try six or seven times sometimes to get the engine to turn over. It always sounds like it's going to start, but it doesn't. I can sit in a parking lot and start the car ten times in a row and it'll be great. But once I actually drive it for a few minutes? Starting it up again is a nightmare.
#4
Not sure what you mean here...is the engine turning over and just not starting, or is the engine cranking slowly? If the engine is turning over ok, then you may have a fuel issue (injector, fuel pump, etc). If slow cranking is the problem, then perhaps battery. Again, Honda should fix the problem.
I will turn the key, and it will make the noise as if it's attempting to start, but it doesn't. I eventually stop and try again. Sometimes I have to do this multiple times before it will actually start.
My car's not under warranty due to the fact that the original owner ruined the engine and it had to be replaced, so due to this, I had to get a warranty through the dealership where I purchased the car. Which is no problem, but so many people are giving me different answers that I thought I would ask here.
It's been to two mechanics. One said nothing was wrong, one said oxygen sensor. Someone I work with who rebuilds cars says it's a fuel pump. I'm just not sure who to "believe", if you will.
My entire car visibly shakes. If you're not in it and you're just looking at it, you can absolutely tell. My RPM's go way down (to like 500 or so) and it shakes. Then it'll go back up to around 900 ... and it'll be fine. But it always goes right back down again.
#5
Does the "Check Engine" light come on and if so does it stay on? If not, that complicates the diagnosis, since a mechanic or Autozone, for that matter, can easily read the computer codes. The Q2 sensors can be ruled out if there is no CEL. No way a bad 02 sensor alone will cause your problem. The computer just goes into open loop and fuel economy suffers.
My guess is that the engine is starving of air, not fuel. As you may not know, the throttle is entirely electric in these cars. All air intake to the engine is controlled by motors driven by the computer. The gas pedal is not mechanically connected to the engine. So, electrical connections to the throttle body need to be cleaned and checked. I have had the idle air control motor go out on a Ford and a Toyota. On the Honda, I dont know if its a separate idle motor or one for the whole "drive by wire" throttle.
My guess is that the engine is starving of air, not fuel. As you may not know, the throttle is entirely electric in these cars. All air intake to the engine is controlled by motors driven by the computer. The gas pedal is not mechanically connected to the engine. So, electrical connections to the throttle body need to be cleaned and checked. I have had the idle air control motor go out on a Ford and a Toyota. On the Honda, I dont know if its a separate idle motor or one for the whole "drive by wire" throttle.
#6
Bad ground to something important? The motor was replaced.......
Absolutely no way of saying "this is the problem!" over the internet, or in person, without some more information. Check engine light on/off is important. Codes from ECU are important.
Absolutely no way of saying "this is the problem!" over the internet, or in person, without some more information. Check engine light on/off is important. Codes from ECU are important.
#8
I had to get a warranty through the dealership where I purchased the car. Which is no problem
#9
Well you left out a pretty important detail from your first post. The fact that the original owner evidently ruined the engine in less than 5000 miles. And that your "great condition" 2011 Honda Fit was a victim of at least a total engine replacement.
I'm actually not sure what your problem could be...but your vehicle has history, at least as serious as having the entire engine replaced.
I think it could be almost anything. If you have a warranty? You now get to see how well it is backed.
Do you know any more about the history of your FIT?
I'm actually not sure what your problem could be...but your vehicle has history, at least as serious as having the entire engine replaced.
I think it could be almost anything. If you have a warranty? You now get to see how well it is backed.
Do you know any more about the history of your FIT?
#10
I would presume anything bad enough to kill a new motor would have to be fuel related, so have everything checked out from the tank to the injectors. If the whole motor was replaced, check up to there. Was a new engine put in? Sounds like an issue I had with my 93 Dodge Shadow when it was 11 years old and the fuel filter was clogged so have the mechanic check that. Turn the key to "ON" without starting so all the lights come on the dash and make sure the CHECK ENGINE etc lights come on too.
I hope you got an amazing deal to buy something so damaged...
I hope you got an amazing deal to buy something so damaged...
#11
Yeah dude, what everyone else said is true--definitely sounds like an issue with combustion I.e. not enough fuel, air or both--could be the sensor too.
Unless you got an amazing deal sure sounds like you got ripped off with the whole ruined engine replacement.
Unless you got an amazing deal sure sounds like you got ripped off with the whole ruined engine replacement.
#12
Well you left out a pretty important detail from your first post. The fact that the original owner evidently ruined the engine in less than 5000 miles. And that your "great condition" 2011 Honda Fit was a victim of at least a total engine replacement.
I'm actually not sure what your problem could be...but your vehicle has history, at least as serious as having the entire engine replaced.
I think it could be almost anything. If you have a warranty? You now get to see how well it is backed.
Do you know any more about the history of your FIT?
I'm actually not sure what your problem could be...but your vehicle has history, at least as serious as having the entire engine replaced.
I think it could be almost anything. If you have a warranty? You now get to see how well it is backed.
Do you know any more about the history of your FIT?
I do have a warranty, and I have no issues with them so far in terms of getting this problem fixed, I'm just confused as to what the problem actually is since I'm getting so many different answers from different people.
I would presume anything bad enough to kill a new motor would have to be fuel related, so have everything checked out from the tank to the injectors. If the whole motor was replaced, check up to there. Was a new engine put in? Sounds like an issue I had with my 93 Dodge Shadow when it was 11 years old and the fuel filter was clogged so have the mechanic check that. Turn the key to "ON" without starting so all the lights come on the dash and make sure the CHECK ENGINE etc lights come on too.
I hope you got an amazing deal to buy something so damaged...
I hope you got an amazing deal to buy something so damaged...
The check engine light turns off once the car's started.
I don't believe I got ripped off, though, seeing as how the warranty I did purchase with the vehicle is going to cover whatever the issue is (I've already dealt with this part) ... it's just a matter of getting a proper diagnosis that I'm finding confusing. I've heard three separate answers, so it's a bit overwhelming.
Last edited by Coconuts; 06-13-2012 at 09:56 AM.
#13
Fuel, air, spark. You've got a problem with at least one. Absent a code popping on the computer, it's hard to say what the problem is. At least the problem appears to be repeatable.
Edit: or at least its hard for people over the internet to diagnose the problem. In person, it should be easier to check. Either way, it should be the dealer with which you have the warranty making it right.
Edit: or at least its hard for people over the internet to diagnose the problem. In person, it should be easier to check. Either way, it should be the dealer with which you have the warranty making it right.
Last edited by malraux; 06-13-2012 at 10:11 AM.
#15
I don't believe I got ripped off, though, seeing as how the warranty I did purchase with the vehicle is going to cover whatever the issue is (I've already dealt with this part) ... it's just a matter of getting a proper diagnosis that I'm finding confusing. I've heard three separate answers, so it's a bit overwhelming.
Last edited by Spacecoast; 06-13-2012 at 04:50 PM.
#17
When "normal" things don't prove to be the trouble, abnormal causes are left. I had a 98 S10 Chevy pickup that had intermittent problems similar to what you are experiencing, a couple times a week. We even took the bed off the truck to get to the fuel pump in the tank and check tank for debris (not the trouble) because it appeared to be an intermittent fuel problem to me.
Finally the OBDII port gave me a code about the TPS, throttle position sensor, that tells the computer how hard you are pressing on the gas, and then changes engine settings accordingly. Replaced the ~$10 part on my Chevy and a problem that had been with me now and then for over a year disappeared.
If there were no warrantee involved I'd get a code reader and look for errors even if the check engine light wasn't on. Since there is? Give it to the dealer and let them earn their money.
Paul H
Finally the OBDII port gave me a code about the TPS, throttle position sensor, that tells the computer how hard you are pressing on the gas, and then changes engine settings accordingly. Replaced the ~$10 part on my Chevy and a problem that had been with me now and then for over a year disappeared.
If there were no warrantee involved I'd get a code reader and look for errors even if the check engine light wasn't on. Since there is? Give it to the dealer and let them earn their money.
Paul H
#18
So this only happens when the vehicle is warm?
When the original owners engine let go, did it blow up? If yes, it could have dumped oil, metal, and coolant into the exhaust system. If that's the case, it sounds like it could be a clogged catalytic converter.
When the original owners engine let go, did it blow up? If yes, it could have dumped oil, metal, and coolant into the exhaust system. If that's the case, it sounds like it could be a clogged catalytic converter.
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