Hello, 20k miles
#1
05-11-2012, 09:38 AM
Hello, 20k miles
20k miles... What should be change or the usual regular maintenance. Do i need to change the cabin filter or engine filter? Or anythning u can advice? Thanks. My maintenance reminder says A1 only.
#2
05-11-2012, 09:58 AM
The cabin filter needs changing. It's available online for about $13 and is a 5 minute DIY. Dealers charge obscene amounts for this.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
Last edited by Steve244; 05-11-2012 at 10:06 AM.
#3
05-11-2012, 11:53 AM
The cabin filter needs changing. It's available online for about $13 and is a 5 minute DIY. Dealers charge obscene amounts for this.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
I would only add that I personally only use Honda Filters (oil $5, cabin $20, and engine about $20 +/-).
Also, I change the cabin air filter every year as they get dirty and it's air that I breath, but I only change the engine air filter when the m. minder says too since I never see dirt roads in South FL. I do inspect both engine and cabin filters ever oil change to make sure that they are still good and give em a few soft taps to clear off any large particles (leaves).
Lastly, since I see that you joined the forum in 2011, and that you are at 20k miles, I am assuming that you don't have a 2012 Fit that requires full syn. oil. Thus, I could never bring myself to pay close to $50 for a oil change at a dealer who will use dino oil and may not even change the oil filter A1.
I would sign the filter with a sharpie, make sure the dealer changes it along with the oil and not pay over $30 if they use dino oil.
Personally, both my Fits only see full syn. oil.
#4
05-11-2012, 12:28 PM
thank you so much sir... 
The cabin filter needs changing. It's available online for about $13 and is a 5 minute DIY. Dealers charge obscene amounts for this.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
The engine air filter should be left alone until about 30K unless you drive dirt roads. If needed (some dirt actually helps filtration, so it's not recommended to change early) they're about $15 online and a bit more fiddly than the cabin filter, but still can be done without tools in less than 10 minutes.
Wiper refills (just the rubber blades) for about $5.00 each from Honda are a good buy. Don't wait for them to get worn. Put them in yourself if Honda charges for this (15 minutes fooling around).
If you leave it up to the dealer they'll suggest lots of things; an oil change/filter is all you need. They should inspect it and top off fluids for less than $50.
#5
05-11-2012, 12:30 PM
you're welcome!
$50 is for 0w20 synthetic Honda oil (I think it's exxon-mobile) with filter here at Ed Voyles. Mineral is $35 for the same service (includes car wash). I was happy to see they treated the battery terminals as well as filled washer fluid and topped off coolant. They also pulled a wheel to measure brake-pad depth during their general inspection. I tell them to leave the air filters alone.
I agree you should be aware of what dealers do for the price. And Voyles is one of the places charging too damn much for cabin filters and other service ($150 for B2?!!). Be aware of what services are needed/recommended by Honda as opposed to the dealer's service adviser. Be aware of what the parts really cost and the time it takes to install them. Shop around. They make their profits on selling service for the cars you buy. You don't have to have the "B2" service performed. Just ask them to do the A1 service (they should inspect everything anyway. The air filters are the only extra.
It distresses me when my wife takes her Camry to the dealer for an oil change and comes home with a $600 receipt for service that wasn't needed, or duplicated service done in the last 30k miles ("but they know what my car needs!").
I've used Honda filters for the cabin so far. For half the price I'm trying the TYC offering on Amazon. I change these yearly too.
$50 is for 0w20 synthetic Honda oil (I think it's exxon-mobile) with filter here at Ed Voyles. Mineral is $35 for the same service (includes car wash). I was happy to see they treated the battery terminals as well as filled washer fluid and topped off coolant. They also pulled a wheel to measure brake-pad depth during their general inspection. I tell them to leave the air filters alone.
I agree you should be aware of what dealers do for the price. And Voyles is one of the places charging too damn much for cabin filters and other service ($150 for B2?!!). Be aware of what services are needed/recommended by Honda as opposed to the dealer's service adviser. Be aware of what the parts really cost and the time it takes to install them. Shop around. They make their profits on selling service for the cars you buy. You don't have to have the "B2" service performed. Just ask them to do the A1 service (they should inspect everything anyway. The air filters are the only extra.
It distresses me when my wife takes her Camry to the dealer for an oil change and comes home with a $600 receipt for service that wasn't needed, or duplicated service done in the last 30k miles ("but they know what my car needs!").
I've used Honda filters for the cabin so far. For half the price I'm trying the TYC offering on Amazon. I change these yearly too.
#6
05-11-2012, 12:35 PM
hello sir what engine air filter do you suggest?
Amazon.com: K&N 33-2422 High Performance Replacement Air Filter: Automotive
Amazon.com: Fram CA10650 Extra Guard Panel Air Filter: Automotive
Amazon.com: K&N 33-2422 High Performance Replacement Air Filter: Automotive
Amazon.com: Fram CA10650 Extra Guard Panel Air Filter: Automotive
#7
05-11-2012, 12:58 PM
yikes.
There are a lot of fans here of permanent K&N oiled filters (the idea is you clean and re-oil them for reuse, kinda like my dad did in the 50s). There are also threads here about having to change oil damaged air flow sensors from K&N users. Two arguments support their use; reduced cost over the life of the car, and recycling. I don't buy the performance arguments.
I'd stick with simple paper filters like the Fram (or Honda). With a 30K life it's hard to justify the higher upfront cost of K&N plus the cleaning and oiling products. I'm all for recycling, but the air filter is the least of your concerns when it comes to owning a car.
There are a lot of fans here of permanent K&N oiled filters (the idea is you clean and re-oil them for reuse, kinda like my dad did in the 50s). There are also threads here about having to change oil damaged air flow sensors from K&N users. Two arguments support their use; reduced cost over the life of the car, and recycling. I don't buy the performance arguments.
I'd stick with simple paper filters like the Fram (or Honda). With a 30K life it's hard to justify the higher upfront cost of K&N plus the cleaning and oiling products. I'm all for recycling, but the air filter is the least of your concerns when it comes to owning a car.
#10
05-11-2012, 04:17 PM
brake fluid is due at 30k or 3years; if it happens to be 3years on the clock for you.
That should go along with brake pad check, since it is a wear item and depends on how much stopping you had to do. Tires too go at their own pace.
Also, if you are a DIYer, and as mentioned above you don't have a 2012; you can consider changing the trans fluid pro-actively to DW-1 (the new synthetic). Even if your old fluid (Z1) is still ok, potentially the new fluid is an very very minor upgrade even comparing fluids new-to-new.
If you're considering paying someone else to do this, keep the money in your pocket, and just go by the regular schedule.
That should go along with brake pad check, since it is a wear item and depends on how much stopping you had to do. Tires too go at their own pace.
Also, if you are a DIYer, and as mentioned above you don't have a 2012; you can consider changing the trans fluid pro-actively to DW-1 (the new synthetic). Even if your old fluid (Z1) is still ok, potentially the new fluid is an very very minor upgrade even comparing fluids new-to-new.
If you're considering paying someone else to do this, keep the money in your pocket, and just go by the regular schedule.
Last edited by raytseng; 05-11-2012 at 04:20 PM.
#11
05-11-2012, 05:29 PM
brake fluid is due at 30k or 3years; if it happens to be 3years on the clock for you.
That should go along with brake pad check, since it is a wear item and depends on how much stopping you had to do. Tires too go at their own pace.
Also, if you are a DIYer, and as mentioned above you don't have a 2012; you can consider changing the trans fluid pro-actively to DW-1 (the new synthetic). Even if your old fluid (Z1) is still ok, potentially the new fluid is an very very minor upgrade even comparing fluids new-to-new.
If you're considering paying someone else to do this, keep the money in your pocket, and just go by the regular schedule.
That should go along with brake pad check, since it is a wear item and depends on how much stopping you had to do. Tires too go at their own pace.
Also, if you are a DIYer, and as mentioned above you don't have a 2012; you can consider changing the trans fluid pro-actively to DW-1 (the new synthetic). Even if your old fluid (Z1) is still ok, potentially the new fluid is an very very minor upgrade even comparing fluids new-to-new.
If you're considering paying someone else to do this, keep the money in your pocket, and just go by the regular schedule.
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