22.8mpg On My New 2012 Honda Fit Sport
#141
Just picked up a new 2012 Fit sport 2 weeks ago. I drive 80% highway and the got 40-42 MPG on the first two tankfulls. My wife has a 2009 Fit sport with 65000+ miles and that one still pulls down 40-42 on the highway as well.
If you not driving it hard, you better take it to the dealer to make sure all is ok with it.
If you not driving it hard, you better take it to the dealer to make sure all is ok with it.
#143
shouldn't do anything for MPG.
Suggest banning the wife from driving. I know mine can make the Fit drop 5mpg just by getting in and closing the door. How she does this at 110lbs I don't know.
I have noted mine increased mpg at about 10K miles, about 2mpg from 32 to 34mpg. It increased again at about 30K when I changed tires, had it aligned from 34-36mpg. This is per the computer over many tanks of gas (although independently verified at the pump). I drive a 25mile commute over gentle (boring) freeway, metro Atlanta, 80% and 20% suburban easy-streets. 87AKR laced with copious amounts of ethanol.
Suggest banning the wife from driving. I know mine can make the Fit drop 5mpg just by getting in and closing the door. How she does this at 110lbs I don't know.
I have noted mine increased mpg at about 10K miles, about 2mpg from 32 to 34mpg. It increased again at about 30K when I changed tires, had it aligned from 34-36mpg. This is per the computer over many tanks of gas (although independently verified at the pump). I drive a 25mile commute over gentle (boring) freeway, metro Atlanta, 80% and 20% suburban easy-streets. 87AKR laced with copious amounts of ethanol.
#144
My 2010 Fit got 30->35 surface road and when I first got my 2012 Fit, for my first 1,000 mile, I only got 20->25mpg, so I panicked. I only drove on surface road, gently accelerate, etc... I basically babied it for the first 1000 miles and 20->25mpg was all I got. I never got on the freeway at all!!! I was about to post a message to ask the forum as to what was wrong, then I had to drive down to San Diego for some bussiness
I filled up my tank. Reset the MPG. Got on the freeway. Set it on M5, cruised my way from North OC down to SD. My MPG shot up to 35-> 40 during my drive down there. I did some light surface road and my MPG was around 30->35mpg just like the 2010. I did get a lil over 300 miles per tank so my MPG was not wrong, I think. And my MPG is back to my 2010 Fit level. 30 -> 35 surface, 35->40 freeeway ever since.
So I think a long road trip might help recalibrate your mpg.
OH. Also, before my SD trip, I rechecked my tire pressure and got them up to 40psi hot. That might also help. I think it's supposed to be 34psi cold.
#145
I will add my name to the "Drives aggro and gets 28mpg+" category.
When I worked for Honda, they said wait to change the oil untill it tells you to. The computer supposedly knows the break in parameters and also the life of the oil. I had plenty of ticked off customers with 5k miles with 40%+ still showing, and so my general manager asked me to stop sending customers away, even though the owner's manual states....yeah.
The 2k shift point is acceptable if on flat ground, and the owner's manual actually reccomends to shit "to the highest gear possible" for best mpg, sometimes even in "Auto mode" you can shift into 5th while going downhill manually. I read through the entire owners manual after purchacing a car just for kicks, I am sick like that.
Do you have a remote start system? Do a lot of idleing?
I would check the intake for any shop rags that may be left from assembly, <I look straight in the camera> I have never seen anything like that before...
I admit, I read the first 3 pages of responses, then skimmed the rest because I am a lazy reader, so I am not sure if you just found your gauge to be malfunctioning after doing a manual mpg measurement or not.
But really, if you have 2k+ on the car and still have this issue, the Regional Manager of Service should be on a first name basis with you. Your salesman will also have weight to get things done, although most sales guys look at selling a Fit like selling a pack of gum because they make very little on the car. But I am rambleing.
When I worked for Honda, they said wait to change the oil untill it tells you to. The computer supposedly knows the break in parameters and also the life of the oil. I had plenty of ticked off customers with 5k miles with 40%+ still showing, and so my general manager asked me to stop sending customers away, even though the owner's manual states....yeah.
The 2k shift point is acceptable if on flat ground, and the owner's manual actually reccomends to shit "to the highest gear possible" for best mpg, sometimes even in "Auto mode" you can shift into 5th while going downhill manually. I read through the entire owners manual after purchacing a car just for kicks, I am sick like that.
Do you have a remote start system? Do a lot of idleing?
I would check the intake for any shop rags that may be left from assembly, <I look straight in the camera> I have never seen anything like that before...
I admit, I read the first 3 pages of responses, then skimmed the rest because I am a lazy reader, so I am not sure if you just found your gauge to be malfunctioning after doing a manual mpg measurement or not.
But really, if you have 2k+ on the car and still have this issue, the Regional Manager of Service should be on a first name basis with you. Your salesman will also have weight to get things done, although most sales guys look at selling a Fit like selling a pack of gum because they make very little on the car. But I am rambleing.
Last edited by LordDave80; 05-09-2012 at 09:57 PM.
#147
I'll do the idle relearn procedure, not because I think it's going to improve gas mileage, but so that it resets the mpg computer readout. Last I checked, it was down at 21.9 average mpg. Way off my manual calcs.
Where in the owners manual does it refer to the first oil change and when it should be done? I wasn't able to find that reference in the 2012 manual.
Yes, shifting to a higher gear ASAP, conditions permitting; ie, level ground, does increase the mpg during acceleration. And yes, having an AT does kill mpg. Much more parts to move. So I would expect 2mpg less than a MT in comparison.
I still have yet to contact Honda on this break in stuff. I want to see what the next manual calculation yields.
There seems to be a lot of mystery concerning this first oil change. The Honda techs at the dealership say wait for the light to come on. And further say there are no additives in the oil in the engine from the factory. Which stands in contrast to what many have posted here. I don't know the answer to that. I have to go with what the factory recommends.
Also is the issue of break in. And getting rings to seat with heat. Makes sense. But, so does the concept that Honda bench runs every engine to both hasten the seating and sealing of the engine, but take out engine shavings.
If these items are considered proprietary information, I doubt finding the, "truth", of it.
I know in the Shelby forums, there is a ton of discussion on tuning the Shelby with aftermarket tunes and making hp and on and on. In the end, the, "truth", is very difficult for many to see.
With any car, a car is not released until it has been exhaustively tested. As so, I feel that you have to stick with what the factory recommends. They know better about their cars than the consumer. And I trust Honda. Bigtime.
I just need to find these references on break in and oil change.
Steve
Where in the owners manual does it refer to the first oil change and when it should be done? I wasn't able to find that reference in the 2012 manual.
Yes, shifting to a higher gear ASAP, conditions permitting; ie, level ground, does increase the mpg during acceleration. And yes, having an AT does kill mpg. Much more parts to move. So I would expect 2mpg less than a MT in comparison.
I still have yet to contact Honda on this break in stuff. I want to see what the next manual calculation yields.
There seems to be a lot of mystery concerning this first oil change. The Honda techs at the dealership say wait for the light to come on. And further say there are no additives in the oil in the engine from the factory. Which stands in contrast to what many have posted here. I don't know the answer to that. I have to go with what the factory recommends.
Also is the issue of break in. And getting rings to seat with heat. Makes sense. But, so does the concept that Honda bench runs every engine to both hasten the seating and sealing of the engine, but take out engine shavings.
If these items are considered proprietary information, I doubt finding the, "truth", of it.
I know in the Shelby forums, there is a ton of discussion on tuning the Shelby with aftermarket tunes and making hp and on and on. In the end, the, "truth", is very difficult for many to see.
With any car, a car is not released until it has been exhaustively tested. As so, I feel that you have to stick with what the factory recommends. They know better about their cars than the consumer. And I trust Honda. Bigtime.
I just need to find these references on break in and oil change.
Steve
#148
The average MPG display resets when you reset the trip odometer.
Not sure what you read about the idle learn procedure, I'm guessing you're thinking of pulling the battery cable to clear volatile memory and then start it and let it go through its "learn cycle." This may actually reduce MPG until it also "relearns" the fuel trims for your car.
If you built the engine, following some break-in procedure to set the rings makes sense.
Since Honda built the engine and did whatever to it before we got them, I'd also follow their recommendations, avoid full throttle starts etc for 500 miles, leave the factory oil in until the MM calls for the first change. There are also anecdotes about the dock monkeys driving the bejesus out of the cars on and off the ships, enough to "set" the rings...
Not sure what you read about the idle learn procedure, I'm guessing you're thinking of pulling the battery cable to clear volatile memory and then start it and let it go through its "learn cycle." This may actually reduce MPG until it also "relearns" the fuel trims for your car.
If you built the engine, following some break-in procedure to set the rings makes sense.
Since Honda built the engine and did whatever to it before we got them, I'd also follow their recommendations, avoid full throttle starts etc for 500 miles, leave the factory oil in until the MM calls for the first change. There are also anecdotes about the dock monkeys driving the bejesus out of the cars on and off the ships, enough to "set" the rings...
Originally Posted by 2009 Owner's manual page 198
Break-in Period
Help assure your vehicle's future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).
● Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Help assure your vehicle's future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).
● Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Last edited by Steve244; 05-10-2012 at 01:55 PM.
#149
![EEK!](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![Wink](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#150
Originally Posted by 2009 Owner's manual page 198
Break-in Period
Help assure your vehicle's future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).
● Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
Break-in Period
Help assure your vehicle's future
reliability and performance by paying
extra attention to how you drive
during the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
During this period:
● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking for the first 200
miles (300 km).
● Do not change the oil until the
scheduled maintenance time.
You should also follow these
recommendations with an
overhauled or exchanged engine, or
when the brakes are replaced.
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