Tow Hitch
#1
Tow Hitch
Does anyone with a hitch have any pictures from the underside and possibly a measurement of the center of the hitch opening to show how far it drops?
I may try to get one fitted into the Mugen rear lip.
I may try to get one fitted into the Mugen rear lip.
#2
The normal frame rail hitches seem to hang below the bumper. Although I've not seen any pics of the "Valley" hitch installed yet. I'm kind of interested in it since it seems a little more hidden.
doesn't seem as sturdy but its still a tow rated hitch for the weight class.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...ey/V58630.html
edit:
here is one from Curt..... I may just make one like it and try to tuck the cross bar up higher and just drop the reciver for a more hidden look....
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012300235
doesn't seem as sturdy but its still a tow rated hitch for the weight class.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...ey/V58630.html
edit:
here is one from Curt..... I may just make one like it and try to tuck the cross bar up higher and just drop the reciver for a more hidden look....
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012300235
Last edited by Rich S; 04-05-2012 at 09:28 PM.
#4
I have the Draw-Tite hitch from eTrailer. Looking at picures of the Mugen, I don't think it would work with a lower rear apron. You could probably use some spacer plates to drop it down further from the mounting surface and use a taller ball.
I can take some measurements this weekend. I have a bunch of pictures of the install as well, just haven't had time to post up a DIY yet.
For anyone else interested; contrary to what it says you DO NOT have to knotch the bottom holes on the frame rails to insert the backing plates. There is a hole on the side of the frame rail on both sides big enough to put the plates through. You also DO NOT have to cut the plastic undertray, you can just leave it on top of the hitch surface. Everything can be installed with zero modification to the car. It's super easy to install. The wiring harness from etrailer is plug and play, also very easy, no cutting or splicing required.
I can take some measurements this weekend. I have a bunch of pictures of the install as well, just haven't had time to post up a DIY yet.
For anyone else interested; contrary to what it says you DO NOT have to knotch the bottom holes on the frame rails to insert the backing plates. There is a hole on the side of the frame rail on both sides big enough to put the plates through. You also DO NOT have to cut the plastic undertray, you can just leave it on top of the hitch surface. Everything can be installed with zero modification to the car. It's super easy to install. The wiring harness from etrailer is plug and play, also very easy, no cutting or splicing required.
#6
I went with the Curt setup. I liked the idea of a 3 point attachment and not having the hitch go under the exhaust. I had to drill a single hole in the driver-side rail, but was super easy. Install took me about 35 minutes including running the wiring harness.
#7
I have the Draw-Tite hitch from eTrailer. Looking at picures of the Mugen, I don't think it would work with a lower rear apron. You could probably use some spacer plates to drop it down further from the mounting surface and use a taller ball.
I can take some measurements this weekend. I have a bunch of pictures of the install as well, just haven't had time to post up a DIY yet.
For anyone else interested; contrary to what it says you DO NOT have to knotch the bottom holes on the frame rails to insert the backing plates. There is a hole on the side of the frame rail on both sides big enough to put the plates through. You also DO NOT have to cut the plastic undertray, you can just leave it on top of the hitch surface. Everything can be installed with zero modification to the car. It's super easy to install. The wiring harness from etrailer is plug and play, also very easy, no cutting or splicing required.
I can take some measurements this weekend. I have a bunch of pictures of the install as well, just haven't had time to post up a DIY yet.
For anyone else interested; contrary to what it says you DO NOT have to knotch the bottom holes on the frame rails to insert the backing plates. There is a hole on the side of the frame rail on both sides big enough to put the plates through. You also DO NOT have to cut the plastic undertray, you can just leave it on top of the hitch surface. Everything can be installed with zero modification to the car. It's super easy to install. The wiring harness from etrailer is plug and play, also very easy, no cutting or splicing required.
#8
Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese are all identical hitches and made by the same company.
_
#9
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...h-install.html
I took some measurements and installation tips for the Curt hitch on this thread.
I took some measurements and installation tips for the Curt hitch on this thread.
#10
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...h-install.html
I took some measurements and installation tips for the Curt hitch on this thread.
I took some measurements and installation tips for the Curt hitch on this thread.
My car is lowered so measuring from the ground isn't going to be accurate here.
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