I'm making a list and triple-checking everything in preparation for converting all of my bulbs to LEDs. I decided to get a good look at the tail light lenses and bulb sockets to ensure there will be no issues with my LED choices.

One concern is the necessity of installing load resistors. On the factory wire harness, this will mean breaking the corrugated sheathing off the pigtails ever so carefully. I'm concerned is there enough room to get the ScotchLoks snapped onto the wires and not f*** them up? Anyone done this, pics?

I am considering these Stage II Load Equalizer kits for the turn signals:
Load Equalizer - Custom LED Universal Flasher Relay Load Equalizer
Here's the rest of the goodies!

Front and rear turn signals:
AMBER 7443 7.5 WATT HIGH POWER LED LIGHT BULBS 7440 | 1 PAIR

Stop/tails:
PLATINUM RED 7 WATT HIGH POWER 20 LED BRAKE LIGHT BULBS 7440 7443 | 1 PAIR B/O
7443 socket photo - Gary Kitchen photos at pbase.com
Socket harness connect side photo - Gary Kitchen photos at pbase.com
7443 stop and tail light bulb photo - Gary Kitchen photos at pbase.com

Parking lights:
AMBER 1.5W 3 CHIP HIGH POWER LED BULBS 194 168 158 | 1 PAIR

Back-up lights:
6K WHITE LED 7W BACK-UP LIGHT BULBS CREE XR-E Q5 7440 | 1 PAIR

License plate:
6K WHITE 4 LED 3 CHIP FLANK BULBS 194 168 158 2825 | 1 PAIR B/O

Cargo light:
HP LED 5K WHITE MULTI SOCKET 158 168 194 906 921 3175 211 1895 1156 57
Cargo light assembly photo - Gary Kitchen photos at pbase.com
Cargo light lens photo - Gary Kitchen photos at pbase.com

Haven't picked out the dome and map light LEDs yet, there are a number of custom-Fit boards similar to the cargo LED made specifically for the dome/map light housings. And the map light..... does anyone have a good DIY w/pics on how to cut the headliner and install the housing? Got the p/n's for it, just a bit scary slicing the headliner w/o instructions.

 

Go here

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...t-base-ge.html

 

Thanks for the link to the maplight DIY install. That part shouldn't be too bad. Just go slow and make a precision template to cut, and a brand-new razor knife blade when cutting.

I just checked by removing a turn signal bulb, and it causes hyperflashing, so I will need the load resistors installed. I need help on how to cut/trim the corrugated sheathing and expose enough of the super-short harness to get a quick-tap on them. Any special technique to avoid slicing a wire? The rear turn signal pigtails are incredibly short and in a very cramped place. Fronts are much more roomy. Will it give any more harness slack by taking the cargo interior side panel out while working? Also, you have to mount/tie the resistors away from plastic surfaces since they are going to get warm when turn signals are working.

 

Just use a very sharp knife and cut slowly along the coating to expose the wires.

So you have tried the LEDs already and they hyper flash? Damn I am in process of ordering some and they did not make any mention of resistors being required.

I have JDM tails now and had the panel off when doing it. It does help and you can get more slack. I guess make sure when installing the resistors that they are placed towards the body panel outside and not the plastic one. Use some ties on them to get them to stay in position.

Here are some pics of my tail instal. Just scroll down

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ght-oem-6.html

 

What I found was if I remove the stock bulb from the turn signals they do hyper-flash, didn't actually try an LED, haven't got them yet. I decided not to do the turn signal bulbs, 'cause if I screw up the wiring trying to splice in load resistors it might be get expensive. I still will be doing the other individual bulbs from www.V-LEDs.com

I kept some LEDs from my old Civic, but they aren't compatible (wrong socket type) except for the 168's I had in the license plate lights, they are nice! I also have one of the 1 1/2" 40 LED square flat panels I'm going to place in the dome light, these are BRIGHT. But first I'll need to pull the fixture and trim the inside plastic a bit as it doesn't quite go in by about 1/16" on one side.

BE CAREFUL!! if you're messing with the dome light, one of the contacts is always hot even if the light is off. Pull the #1 10A backup fuse first to avoid blowing it. Write down your radio code, or find the sticker in the glove box. This fuse covers the radio, keyless entry/power locks, MSID display and a few other things. I blew this fuse poking around. No real harm, but I wasn't happy. I temporarily borrowed a 10A from the back-up lights until I can get a replacement. These mini fuses are a bit hard to find, might have to get it at the dealer if not available elsewhere.

 

Go on eBay, you can get the led bulbs for less than half the price of your links. I replaced all my interior lights for about $10.

Dome and map lights: de3175 | eBay

Trunk and license plate:168 led | eBay

If you know the bulb model # you can find the rest.

They ship via a slow boat from China or Hong Kong. It take a few weeks to arrive.

 

Just re-read. Of course if you remove one bulb the other will hyper. I suspect LEDs will work fine.

 

LEDs will need a resistor in a flasher, unless it has one built-in.

It's not that bad if one likes their turn signals blinking twice as fast.

 

I'm looking for something exactly like this (hi/lo voltage) in a 194/168 type bulb but cant find anything... Do they even make them?

I got some 12 smd & 16 smd LED's for the dome light & maplight for ~$3 shipped, I can try and find the seller's link for you if you want.

 

Got my old 168's installed in the license plate. Had to bevel the leading edge of the PC card, it's thicker than standard circuit board, but they will go in then.

I finally managed to get the 40 LED SMD panel to fit in the dome light after trimming away a small ledge area in the front. Almost no room, but I can just get the lens on. On my old Civic, this panel lit up the entire interior like a floodlight. Not blinding, but BRIGHT. Nice when you can't find stuff with the crap bullet bulb.

Looked over the eBay stuff, but none of them look very well made. Yes they're cheap.....who knows how long they'll last, and brightness/color are probably not that great. You get what you pay for.