I am sorry if I upset you

It's trying to snow here...

 

Well I did it to my Fit by myself at Shibuya's bus terminal at about 1am. Got to love a light weight manual equipped car you can push by yourself, jump in and start it up. Thankfully I had a slight decline, but that same decline was an incline because the first 5 times it wasn't happening.

I'm curious to see how it would happen on a FF AT equipped car. Even pushing while in neutral and putting it into D, I just don't see it happening, but I have never tried so I won't say it is impossible. With a MT I know it will do it.

EDIT: Just searched online for starting an automatic with a dead battery. Found this:
1) Again, you will need to roll the car, so find a place and the right bodies to get the car in motion to about 5 miles per hour.
2) Release the hand-brake and foot-brake, and put the car in second gear.
3) Once the car gets up to about 5 miles per hour, try starting the car by turning the ignition.
4) If that doesn’t work, keep the car in second gear and push down the gas as you turn the ignition.

Somebody with an autotragic, please try this and see if it works. If it does, well that is something new I learned and will not be a + for a MT, though a MT will always be a plus for me.

 

alls good, its a pretty sweet picture you got there, reminds me of the infiniti commercials where they have the kindve outline of a car then the real one appears behind it, except this is cooler cause its a honda...and its snow.

 

For what it's worth this AT will handle quite a bit of extra power and like it. I swear it had a crisper shift with boost. Then their's the issue of the 3rd gear 90mph TC lockup, odd supperior downkick response compared to a non-downkick run in the same gear, and just general voodoo.

 

Ok, here is my opinion on the MT/AT repair cost thread (CCPDYMMV)
Any fuel savings either way are a non issue, so it's a wash
A MT costing $1000 less than an AT on average is a good number= +$1000 MT
Trading in a MT in 3-5 years can be done without ever spending a dime extra on a MT, same $1000 savings applies then
NOW....if you are going to drive the wheels off your Fit and keep it until it dies. I could safely say you would probably have to replace the clutch at least once in the cars lifetime before you where done with it. And if it cost you $1000 to replace it than its a wash there too ....there you go, the MT IMHO cost no more to operate than an AT

 

I agree more or less. If everything goes perfect they will be equal in cost. However, that is making the assumption that the auto will go the distance. Honda's hold up pretty well, but the auto is unlikely to make it past 150,000 or so miles. That's where the MT becomes cheaper because replacement of the auto is pricey.

But, overall I do agree that the cost is darn close. The auto costs more initially, but has higher resale, so those are likely a wash.

 

In my lifetime all of my MT failures where caused due to my left foot and all of my AT failures where caused by my right hand<<truestory

 

Ummm...foot slipping or dropping the clutch and right hand neutral dropping the auto? Just a guess coming from someone who takes the blame for most of my automotive failures as well. I've broken way too much stuff

We have driven our MT very hard and abused the clutch on mountain runs that require slipping it between gear changes to keep from upsetting the chassis. At 55,000 miles it now has a slight chatter, but still grabs pretty hard. I'm guessing that I will change it before it's actually done just to switch to something with better feel.

 

Correct...Nothing good comes out of a Neutral Drop

 

some of you guys got your facts backwards... fluid changes on a manual transmission? go try to find it in the manual.. it doesn't exist.. because manual transmissions don't even require a fluid change unless it has open service on it where you just refill it back to normal.

another thing.... clutch maintenance? you probly change that once in a car's life time... as a oppose to changing the fluid in an automatic every 30k miles...

and more moving parts.... wtf... the automatic has over 100 extra pounds in weight of extra moving parts.

 

Our MT does require fluid changes. It is #3 on the Maintenance Minder. When you see that number, I'm guessing around 80,000 miles, it is calling for fluid change of the MT

 

Again, there is some misinformation floating around here. As GAFit pointed out, the transmission fluid, whether ATF or MTF, is to be changed on the Fit and is a sub code "3" on the MM system. The coolant is also suppose to be changed out and is noted as sub code "5"

 

"If you tow a Fit behind a motorhome, the transmission fluid must be changed every 2 years or 30,000miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first. (A/T only)" only applies to A/T's! But both require fluid changes when sub code 3 pops up...

 

mhadden, my service manual is different from yours. It breaks out MT and AT under #3 and says the type and quantity of fluid to use. Just like yours the towing behind motorhome is only for the AT.

My service manual is in .pdf. Is there a way to post pages from it without printing and scanning? I do not have Adobe editor.

 

thanks.. i knew i wasn't crazy.. lol


i don't think your going to find it in there... maintenance on manual transmission almost doesn't exist on any car....

at best its going to say "refill if transmission was opened"

It would be interesting if you have something that says something different.. just the print screen button and upload it to photobucket or something.




I mean.. most people buy manual transmissions for not only a sporty feel(more power to the wheels) and cheaper fix... but also for nearly 0 maintenance. your clutch pedal sagging and clutch replacement are about going to be the worst things you'll encounter with it... and also throw out bearing sometimes go bad and locks the flywheel into the clutch, but those are all easy and cheap fixes.



i mean.. i know the difference between power to the wheels is 12% lost on a manual transmissions compared to a 20% lost with a automatic transmission... but that extra 8% really does make a difference.... test drive both cars, and i guarantee you will see a higher performance on that manual transmission

 

I got ya' covered. <08' Honda Fit MM codes:



(I have Adobe Pro 9, so I open the pdf and export to jpeg. Then use imageshack to host.)

Low, or to quote you "nearly 0", maintenance is one of the many reasons I drive a M/T. But that's not to say that there isn't ANY maintenance. You still need to change the fluid as recommended.

 

 

That's three different versions of the Service Manual and ALL say the same thing. You HAVE to change the manual transmission fluid. This is normal and recommended regardless of make/model.

 

ahh yeah sorry for the confusion, yeah you have to change your fluids, just not the transmission fluids.

 

I think if Honda didn't want us to replace the MT fluid... they would say (on page 251 of the 2010 owner's manual):

But that's not the case, instead it looks like:

in fact, if you look at the two other instances of "(for A/T only)," it implies that the "A/T only" only applies to those sections it is actually listed after.

On that same page, on the left side (for the A and B code)... one of the listed items under "Inspect these items:" is "All fluid levels and condition of fluids".

MTF is still a petroleum based lube... and just like motor oil, it is subject to contamination.