This will be my 1st new car, trading in a 1999 Maxima twds it.

So far they quoted me at 16,100 for the base Gray m/t- which included the $500 package of:
nitro filled tires
mud guards
door edge guard
cargo mat
wheel locks

The more I read about the car, the more I think the Sport might be worth the extra 1k or so...

Are the seats in the Sport much nicer?
Could I put a stabilizer bar in the base?

I dont care much about the body work or fog lights, but the Sport stock rims look pretty nice... and I would prefer 16" over 15"... though i'm still learning how what the tire spec mean, ex: 195/xx/xx etc.

So any general or specific advice would be greatly appreciated!

And yes, I will def be on here often, even AFTER purchase


Thanks, and nice place ya'll have here!

 

Hi
I would forget about those items they are charging you an extra $500 and get them online & install yourself. When I bought my Fit in 2010, there were more differences between the Base & Sport. Since the 2011 models there are fewer, ESP if you are buying a manual trans.
Seats are the same in both cars, may be different colors. The Sport comes with a driver's arm rest & base does not. If you end up getting a center console with armrest or an aftermarket such as the one sold by Zeta Products, you need to remove that arrest, so it isn't much of an extra. You can put a sway bar in th base.

 

(thanks Susan)


The salesman said the 500$ package comes on all the vehicles, but he seemed to be feeling me out for a reply at the time... the car hasnt arrived at the lot yet, so maybe I could tell him not to pin stripe it, etc.

From what I read, even if it is pre installed, I can still bargain and not pay the $500... as i've read, nothing seems written in stone when dealing with dealerships (this is my 1st experience).

Is the OEM stabilizer bar the same thing as a sway bar? I think I read somewhere you can have both on for even better cornering?

And, where is everyone getting their front mesh to protect the AC parts?

 

Don't get this package. You definitely don't need wheel locks or nitrogen filled tires and the rest of that can be bought much cheaper online if you really want it.

Whether or not to get the sport really comes down to personal preference. I don't like the Sport bodykit, spoiler, or wheels, and I don't like Nav or cruise control, and I got a MT, so didn't make much sense to me to get the Sport. I guess the only thing I would have really wanted from the Sport would be the rear roll bar, but you can put an aftermarket one on the base.

 

True,

I just emailed him asking him to trade the package for 500$. Do they install the pin stripes and wheel locks at the local dealer? Or do they come off the truck with them?

 

More than likely they will install all the optional stuff at the dealership.

 

That $500 package is a ripoff. One of the first things I told the salesman before I took a test drive is I did not want the $360 package on the display model. Try college hills honda. They seem to have good online prices on accessories.
alloy wheel locks, $34.98
cargo tray $69
mud guards, $62.91
door edge film, $32.94
nitro in tires, you're on your own with that one.
Saving almost $300, priceless.

I think the wheel locks are somewhat important judging from what I have read in other threads on this board. From what I gather, you are better off going with aftermarket locks. Apparently the fit rims look nice on older civics which makes them a target for theft. Search wheel locks on this forum and you will get some good info. Although I'm still wondering exactly which aftermarket locks I need/should get.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...t-sport-4.html

Just re-read your post, didn't realize you were talking about the base. Then no, you probably don't need wheel locks. Again from what I have read here, the sport is worth the extra money and some with the base have regretted not getting the sport because of the difference in handling. I'm working on getting the sport myself. Hopefully the dealer can locate what I want.

 

The only thing I paid the dealer extra for was the darkest window tint that was legal to have... I wish I had been able to have found a base model rather than the sport... I hate dragging the front lip and side skirts and the heavy alloy wheels that had to be removed and replaced by lighter ones from an after market supplier to improve the performance, handling, comfort, steering, braking and longevity of all of the components related to those functions... Even if you get a sport model chances are parts that will improve the car will be replacing the ones that come on it as an upgrade from what came on it that the base model doesn't have... It is hard to get rid of stock sport wheels when you upgrade for better ones... If you are going to be happy with a stock base or sport and not throw time and money into it to improve performance just get the one you like the most... If you will be tricking it out for better performance or a certain look that requires a lot of aftermarket parts and body parts, go with the base model.....

 

Awesome replies, thanks everyone.


I went thru as many tire threads as I could find since finding the site- and have seen a few repeated recomendations, but would just like a current opinion on what the best rim size, tire size and brand would be for the best combo of keeping speed/odometer accurate, handling, and MPG (in that order).

Thanks again.

 

Car comes off the truck with no options, so you merely direct him to not install items other than ones you want.
All of your package items can be bought yourself and installed very easily , also by yourself if you want.
This is just a way for dealer to make a bit more money due to factory markup not being so profitable for dealer, other than hold back money they receive with quantity of vehicles sold.
I started with a 2010 base manual and traded this year for a 2011 sport automatic. Really like the sport much better, but the base is a fine vehicle as well. The 2012 has a few more options that used to be only for sport, but to each his own.
Either way, enjoy the vehicle and use the so-called $500 package for negotiations and do not get what you don't want, as all extras they quoted are dealer installed.
Good luck and keep us updated on your purchase.

 

I just bought a 2012 Honda Fit Sport auto without any of the following:
nitro filled tires
mud guards
door edge guard
cargo mat
wheel locks

The fact that they put nitro filled tires in a package is likely a red flag to purchase your car elsewhere. The next thing to check out is what other charges does this dealer have that add to the bottom line (for example, document fees). The important thing is what is the bottom line cost to trade. What are they giving you for your trade in against the sale price of the Honda? Your goal is to minimize the difference. Dispite the dealer's BS, this is a buyers market.

 

Thanks, Dick.

Are destination fees something liek document fees in that there is wiggle room?

 

The best thing you can do is shop a few stores and see who has the cheapest OUT THE DOOR pricing. If you have the ability to shop around, go with whoever has the lowest OTD price.

 

True, thanks everyone.

So the latest, the local dealer finally gave me a print out with an OTD of 15742.29, which included a $2200 trade in. And this is for a M/T Base. So I add the 15700 + the 2200 = 17900 for a near match of the ppl on the "what are you paying 2012" thread and see everyone buying the the Sport version...

So next time I go in i'll tell them to knock off more or i'll pay the 17ish for a M/T Sport... thoughts?

 

haha,

and meanwhile... I have the condenser protecting mesh in the mail and an armrest! ha!

 

That also includes sales tax (I think). How much is that in FL? If it's 6% then the amount of sales tax included $15742.29 is about $891. there's also title fees, maybe $75 for around $966 total.

With your $15742.29 "OTD" that's 14776.29 (15742.29-966) before taxes and state fees. Plus your trade of $2200 (is that a reasonable amount for your trade? What are you trading in?) means you're paying $16,976.29 for the base fit before taxes, state fees, and trade-in.

The list price for a 2012 base MT fit is only $15,945 (includes destination fees of $770 which are not negotiable). You're paying at least $1,000 too much depending on the "real" value of your trade in. The sweet spot for a 2012 base Fit MT is around $15,500 plus tax and registration, less a fair trade-in value for your old car.

You need to do some research. Check trade in values for your old car using edmunds.com and KBB.com.

Check new car values using edmunds.com and truecar.com

Stop whatever you're doing if it's not too late (did you sign a contract?) and check some numbers on those sites. Everyone here is happy to offer feedback.

 

Thanks Steve,

Awesome post. Didnt sign anything yet. Trading in a 99 maxima with a possible ECM problem. The trade price is avg- I went in asking 3500 but would have settled for 3000.

 

On the print out, they included all this in their final $15742:

Govt Fees: 521.05, which includes a new registration.
Taxes: 878.24
Doc Fee: 598.00

 

the doc fee is bogus. That's pure dealer profit. They say they "have" to charge it, but they don't.

Don't know about Govt Fees. guess it costs a lot to register cars (maybe the first time) in FL.

How many miles on the maxima?

 

Three weeks ago I purchased my 2012 MT base model:

$15725 for the actual purchase price
$199 documentation fee

Legitimate fees include: Sales tax, title, state registration and licencing

Fees you should never pay: Promotional fees, key replacement program (unless you want it), undercoating, or any sort of "package" (again, unless you want it).

I got out the door for $17200, but that's because my state has a 7.5% sales tax and fairly high title and registration fees.

You should negotiate the price of the vehicle first and forget the trade. Once you have a fair price for the new vehicle purchase in writing, then you can see what they will (separately) offer you for the Maxima.