Well, the law says that the dealer has to charge the same doc fee to everyone. But yeah, 600 bucks to fill out some forms is crazy. To buy my car, the doc fee was $1.00, a much more reasonable fee.

The correct way to look at it is Total price payed to the dealer + total price payed to the government = total price of car. You can't negotiate the tax rate or registration cost with the dmv, so all you are negotiating is the total price you are paying to the dealer, including all dealer fees. The doc fee shouldn't ever enter your mind, just the total price paid to the dealer.

 

138k... low in my book, but i'm pretty sure the ECM is damaged...

After you guys' post I am thinking 15k OTD is where I should be...

 

Depends on the trade.

1999 Maxima SE with options and auto in "average" condition is only valued about $1500 on trade in the Miami area.

If we use this amount

$15945 list. There is negotiation room here, I'd start by offering the invoice amount which is still more than they actually pay after they get their "holdback" money from Honda.

$15,565 "invoice" price. Includes destination fees.
-1,500 trade in*
14,065 sttl
843.90 6% sales tax
521.05 first time FL registration
$15,429.00 ttl "otd"

*You need to be careful on the trade in value. $1,500 is calculated using edmunds "average" for a '99 Maxima SE auto with options in the Miami area @138K miles. Average requires some mechanical and cosmetic reconditioning. You could get it fixed and sell it yourself for $2,000. $1,500 might be high on the trade in. I might be way off depending on your maxima and its options/condition.

If I'm right, At 2,200, they're padding the trade-in and charging you more for the car which is ok (it saves you some sales tax). (edit, doesn't save you sales tax, but it might make you feel better about your trade...) (edit edit... might also make getting a loan easier....)

Malraux, I don't think there is any law stipulating fees must be the same for everyone. Can you provide a source for that? My own experience here in GA was when I walked out refusing to pay $500 in fees they had preprinted on the sales contract, they knocked another $500 off the price of the car that was already being offered below list, (and added the fee in anyway). The fees vary greatly from dealer to dealer. I would refuse to pay them.

If you can separate the trade-in from the deal like larry suggests, that can simplify things, but don't be surprised when they offer you a lot less for the Maxima.

Their current offer of 15,742 isn't bad. It really depends on the trade-in value of your Maxima.


edit edit edit: also are you financing with them? They stand to make a lot of money on the loan (and you'll pay a lot) depending on the interest rate.

Also when you finalize the deal, they'll try to add on service contracts and extended warranties. Don't do it. it's a Honda.

 

My local credit union had 2.49, Honda beat it with 2.24 for 60 months... The manager just called after I called the guy Ive been dealing with saying 15700 was too high...

The 15700 includes the 500$ nitro filled tires, pinstripes etc, then the 500ish$ doc fee, at this point I feel like if I could get them to 15200 we could all be happy- or 15000 and just me happy

 

For $600 you can find someone to stand in line at the DMV for you, naked and covered with strawberry sauce.

 

It's a dealer fee, aka Documentation fee, aka ADM, aka "additional dealer markup." They are quite tenuous sticking to it though.

 

But the dealer can and will lower the sale price to offset the doc fee.

I got tired of goofing around with dealer games. I visited every dealer in the Salt Lake City metro area, and eventually ended up 60 miles from home before I found one that was fair ($199 doc., prices $200 cheaper than the Honda Fit website, no other sneaky dealer fees).

I agree re: the $600 fee. I'd stand naked (well, in a Speedo, anyway) at the DMV covered in strawberry sauce for that kind of money. You can do better re: doc fee.

 

It's done!

15500 OTD for a Black m/t base with tint, mats, cargo tray. That price is including 2200$ trade in.

Only issue, I thought the Base came with a USB port- I cant find mine next to the cig lighter... is this manufacturing mistake?

ETA: the price also included a new title/tag, not a transfer.
ETA: also ended up financing with local credit union, they matched the 2.24 and gave 1% cash back as well as a finders fee to my GF for her recommendation.

 

check in the upper level glove box, that's where it is in the 2010 Sport. Great location since you can hide your iPod.

 

Thanks again everyone you guys saved me some serious dough

Man, the battery is a 1/4 the size of the old Maxima! Lookin fwd to that replacement price!

 

USB in glove box. Congrats man! The 2012 base has everything the sport does, except alloys, body kit, spoiler, and rear roll-bar. Mechanically it's exactly the same.

Enjoy!

 

Thanks

The night I got it, I wasnt so excited bc I had never spent that amount of money so quickly before, but as soon as I woke up it hit me- and I was excited.

I tried the condenser protector kit yesterday but cut the length too short- funny/scary story: when I was driving it home from the deal 2 nights ago I was cruising slow as I hadnt read any break in instructions yet- and BAM this Z28 passes me and shoots rock up at me- ha, what are the chances! I checked it out when I got home with a flashlight (quark 123t) and it looked good...AC still works too.

Went out with some friends last night, one of my guy friends was having a good laugh about the exterior size- once he got in, he became quiet. This car really is better than i've even read about!

Another neat thing I am appreciating is the size of the windshield... I was going to the GFs house yesterday evening during sunset- man, it was like a panoramic view, just awesome!

Next step: add mesh. add arm rest.

The car corners nicely for it tire size... but I do think the thin 175s are holding some performance back. But ill wear em out and start a new thread when that time comes

I'll try and get some pics out soon- using an Iphone, so i'm waiting for good natural light.

 

It's a popular mod (grill screen) but I think people are a little paranoid. Since reading about this here I checked my other cars '97 Honda (gone now), 2003 Accord, 98 Camry, 2009 Solstice (gone now); and the only car without a gaping maw exposing the condenser to whatever mother nature and the GA DOT can throw at it was the Pontiac.

Checking '99 Maxima's, same thing. A random scan of cars out in the parking lot; same thing...

I think the Fit's condenser, not being painted black (it's unfinished aluminum, the way God and Mr. Carrier intended it), is much more visible and people equate this with vulnerability.

Anyway, don't obsess.

Ok obsess a little, it's a new car.

 

Congrats on the new Fit. If I were to do it over again, I would consider the 2012 Base M/T.

 

I tried to get a base model in 2006 when I bought my GD. There weren't any around with manual transmission and it took 3 months to get a sport model with manual.... I think the base model won't be as dated looking as the sport models will as styling trends change over the length of time I intend to drive my car.. I don't care much for the lack of ground clearance either.+

 

FWIW, my 04 accord does not have the condenser guard and has had to have it replaced because of damage. I don't know how common the issue is, but it is a vulnerable area with a pricey repair cost.

 

The $500 package is designed for profit by the dealer.. this car doesnt have much profit in it to begin with.. some dealers add this package to increase their profit.. dont buy it unless you feel like spending more then you have to.. if they wont budge then get it somewhere else..

the doc fee should be around $20 and it is not required, they add it to make a little more… $500 is obscene..

I got the sport because I like the body kit it came with and also the wheels.. but really the big kicker for me was the interior.. I only like black interiors because i thin grey gets dirty too quickly and doesnt look as good… the base only has a grey interior….
Also the sport has a leather wrapped steering wheel… some people dont care about this but I do! It is the surface on the vehicle you spend the MOST TIME TOUCHING.. might as well get the sport dude its got a lot of stuff for only $1000 more..


Overall I would get a Sport and I would 100% get a Manual transmission… if you dont know how to drive one have someone teach you… maybe the salesman will help you

 

Get the Sport. What they are "offering" you, like the guards and nitrous is worth nothing. The small extra for the Sport is WELL worth it. You will be happy forever, and never look back. (I had a Base, and the next year, traded it on a Sport. BIG difference for little money) I got the auto because I just did not like the M/T on the Base. Never quite got used to it, and highway MPG is better with the auto.

 

I really question when people say "the MPG is better on the auto." The EPA says that ... but the EPA says I should only be getting 33. I'm kickin' butt with 37 highway with my base manual.

I do agree the leather steering wheel on the sport was nice, but the base wheel does well enough. And I didn't want some goofy looking body kit bolted onto my car.

 

I got about 37 highway on my Base, and get a little over 40 with my Sport auto. Lower RPM on the highway.