2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Break in oil

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  #61  
Old 11-22-2011, 08:14 PM
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This message is hidden because Steve244 is on your ignore list.
And that won't be changing any time soon, for good reason.
 
  #62  
Old 11-22-2011, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
And that won't be changing any time soon, for good reason.
I'll bet you peeked.
 
  #63  
Old 11-22-2011, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Some thing I typed up a while back that might make good food for thought:

You want an example of how a simple change in oil can create a significant difference in fuel economy and power (which are both related by the way, one often follows the other)
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.
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BOC = Viscosity x RPM x Diameter x K / Unit Load
This does not demonstrate a significant difference in fuel economy and power based on viscosity. The big numbers in the numerator and denominator are RPM and Unit load. K is not intuitively pi, or the equation's author would have expressed it as pi. K is "some factor." Not any factor, but one designed to compensate for the units used to measure viscosity, diameter, and load.

If you truly want to demonstrate the effect of viscosity, find the absolute viscosity of different weights of motor oil, and, compare them, using realistic values for RPM (economy will not be achieved at 9,500 RPM even in Fits) and Unit Load with the value of K correct for whatever units you're using.

This author makes a similar case for bearing operating condition (BOC) but comes up with dramatically different results. In this case (as in yours) it's impossible to connect all the dots, as several meaningful steps are omitted. All we get is noise.

I'll agree that oil is good, and using a multi-viscosity oil is better. Even Bullet's careful research, however, has not turned up more than a couple percent gain in economy/power by using the optimum oil.
 
  #64  
Old 11-23-2011, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Well, I had a nice long write-up on this somewhere on here. Found it and went to update it with collected data and poof its gone.

*sigh*

Anyways, for a stock Fit in the lower 48, using a high quality filter, E10 or E0 fuel, an Oil with magnesium/calcium in it and a virgin TBN of at least 5 it would be wise to change the oil every 120-160 gallons of fuel.

This is assuming you let the engine get up to temperature and have a commute of more than ~5 miles, shorter than that and it would be wiser to use a shorter interval.

I would start to decrease the interval every 25k miles or if you will be driving harder than normal.

Again, I had a nice detailed layout but it was deleted somehow in the posting process.

Specific cases, operation habits and environments would change this as well. Most owners should understand that regardless of how you think you drive your car, you are likely subjecting it to "Severe" service. Especially with short trips. It may be counter-intuitive, but the majority of FF.net members aren't engineers, chemists or physicists that deal with this subject routinely.

Use severe service guidelines if you expect to own the car past 100k.

For special cases like supercharged or turbo fits, the intervals would be considerably shorter because of the added stresses, fuel dilution and blow-by.
Would like to see the write up if you can find it. GF4/5 has a TBN of 7 or 8. So 7500 should not be a problem. TBN is not as important as in the past. Lower sulfur and phosphorus content in the gas and oil with the saturated base oils form less acids as long a the oil gets hot. No constant short trips especially in the winter. It takes about 7-10 miles according to my ultra gauge for the motor to get fully warm when its 40 degrees outside. Main GF-5 Site Home All GF5 oils has to meet these requirements.
 
  #65  
Old 11-23-2011, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GAFIT
Last time I sent in an analysis of my Mobil Delvac1 with 5,000 miles from my diesel Superduty I was very surprised to see that the viscosity had changed and it was fairly dilluted with fuel. If you haven't, I would suggest sending in a sample. I use Blackstone Labs, but there are other options.

I have sent in samples from many, many cars, with multiple oils and the results have been the same. Oil is fully contaminated by 5,000 miles.

These recent suggestions of extended drain intervals are nonsense in my opinion and can be traced back to the EPA. They don't think that any car with 200,000+ miles should be on the road, but I disagree.
Just to jump in somewhat late to this, but the oil analysis reports that have been posted in the forum seem to indicate that oil holds up fairly well when changed according to the MM. Granted, it does depend on driving style and conditions, but here goes:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post903431
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...es-09-fit.html
 
  #66  
Old 11-23-2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by clicq
Just to jump in somewhat late to this, but the oil analysis reports that have been posted in the forum seem to indicate that oil holds up fairly well when changed according to the MM. Granted, it does depend on driving style and conditions, but here goes:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post903431
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...es-09-fit.html
They don't show TBN but the additives are high anyways. Its good to know it should hold up to MM or beyond. I usually see the mpg start to fall for no reason when close to an oil change around 20/30 percent so that's my cue to change it.
 
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