Could I expect to get a better price if I wait til later in the year? I am ready to buy my 2012 Alabaster Silver Sport MT, however checking a few Honda dealer websites near me, there don't seem to be many 2012's in stock. Or 2011's for that matter. I can wait if I have to, there is no real hurry except to get my hands on that Fit! or I could go ahead and order one....but what savings might I expect by waiting, and until when--? Like the end of the year or--? I don't need or want financing. If I wouldn't save much maybe it's not worth waiting.

I have never bought a brand new car before. Should I wait til there are plenty in stock, if I can restrain myself? Maybe they aren't making the MT's yet after the production pause due to earthquake, and maybe the first few off the line wouldn't be smart to get? Thanks fellow FFFers!

 

The same month new year models arrive is usually going to cost you more, especially if they don't have many units in stock. I'd shop around Thanksgiving weekend if you can wait. Next best time is year-end sales. That said, if you research dealer costs carefully and negotiate well you can get the "best price" just about anytime (except soon after tsunamis).

Read up on advice at edmunds.com on new car negotiations. truecar.com is another great resource, but their information on 2012s isn't in yet (I think).

Be aware of dealer tactics to maximize profits with dealer add-ons and things you don't expect like service contracts, extended warranties, and the loan interest rate.

 

I think they are getting you on financing charges when the prices are good and vice verse when it is the other way... Tell the sales guy you are financing and get a quote on paper (if you can) and then spring it on them you are paying up front... If it is stated on the quote that you are financing you're screwed.

 

Thanks Steve and Coyote...Haha yes, I have thought a great deal about this paying cash business, having learned to my surprise and dismay that evidently this is undesirable from the stealership's POV. I will consider your advice, however so far the best i have been able to determine to do is fudge when asked how i am paying and say I do not want to discuss payment until price is settled. I have also seen where some ppl get a financing contract with pay-off clause and then they just pay it off right away, but doubt I can go that route. I plan to negotiate as much as possible by email first, and hopefully only show up to pay and go, more or less.

I do not want any accessories or dealer add-ons. Or dealer stickers or decals either. Only all-weather mats, and the Sport comes with mats but don't know what kind. The only other accessory i had considered is body molding, but not sure it is worth the price.

I am pretty nervous about trying to negotiate. I have been on edmunds and truecar and am going back now that the time is here. They do have the 2012 info at truecar! New 2012 Honda Fit Price Quote w/ MSRP, Dealer Cost & Invoice

MSRP including destination for 2012 Sport MT is $17,680. Invoice, $17,079 and dealer cost according to TC is $16,741.

 

another thing to watch out for are "dealer fees." Usually administration or adm (really means additional dealer markup). Here in Atlanta they tack this on after you agree on a price when they trot out the sales agreement to sign. It's usually printed on the form and when you ask they say, "Oh we have to charge that." No, they don't. If they insist, suggest they take this amount off the sales price of the car. Walk away if they don't.

Best way is to get them to email or fax the sales agreement to you before going in. It's always easier to negotiate from a distance.

 

I don't know if the 2012 Fit would be considered "hot" as the 2009 was back when it was new... normally mid-cycle refreshes are to up sales of a product that's getting long in the tooth. I'm sure there'll be plenty of opportunities for good APR financing and leasing in coming months with decent prices.

 

Why don't you email the dealers in your area to see what the best out-the-door price they can give you right now and whether they even have the car you want in stock. If they don't or if the price is too high, then just wait until more of the stock comes in. You're in a great position if you don't HAVE to buy right now, so just see what kind of prices you can get.

 

They do have to charge you the dealer fee! By law if they charge one person they have to charge everyone!

But it is a ^&%$#@@ scam! They insist they must charge you the fee, it;s the law they proclaim. It is a BS way to steal your money!

At the dealer I bought from the fee is $695!! This poster is right if they will not subtract the fee from the final negotiated price(not the list price) walk, walk away as if they are trying to scam you, cause they are!!!!!!

Best time to buy, I would hazard a quess the week before Xmas, a good negotiator with the right salesman could save $1500 by waiting.

the posted dealer cost has nothing to do with what the car cost the dealer. JIm 0311

 

Thanks everyone, yes, maybe I will send out some emails after I do a little more homework on this...but then maybe not. I do kind of hate to wait any longer but a "good deal" would be nice too. I already know i am no kind of negotiator.

I don't do anything in haste but I will be letting ya'll know when the deal is sealed! Or maybe what kind of offers I get. And I will look out for those "dealer fees". Thanks everyone for your expertise, much appreciated.

 

The negotiating range on the fit is pretty small even at the best of times. How much does the absolutely lowest price matter to you vs within a few hundred of that?

If you know exactly what car (including trim level, color, and dealer installed accessories) you want, I would email/fax all the dealers in a 50-100 mile radius (depending on how big a city you live in) and ask for a quote to get exactly that. Whatever the best deal you get, knock a few hundred off that, and tell the dealer that you'd be willing to put a deposit down to get one ordered from the factory with those specs and you're willing to wait for it to come in.

Edit: I should say that regardless of anything else, you should be negotiating on out the door pricing. Regardless of how much of a rip off dealer fees are, they are part of the landscape. But by asking for an OTD price, you'll bypass a lot of that dealer BS.

 

Truecar says $601 off MSRP in my area. Given the margins on the Fit are pretty slim, that's definitely a fair price that wouldn't stop me from buying if I wanted one.

I would ask for an OTD (out the door) price including detailed breakdown, if you email the dealers in your area. Good luck.

 

Trucar prices for Fit were greatly distorted by the Tsunami. The 2012 model is new and in short supply so the price is up. Go to the what people paid thread, many people got far more off than $601 pre Tsunami and it will be the same again once a supply of them has built up.

But if you want it now you pay more, $600 over 5 years is only $10 a month. IF you put that $10 month into a retirement account in 30 years it will buy you a new Fit, your choice. HTH JIm 0311 H 2/3 2nd plt

 

interesting truecar experience.

My next door cubicle buddy wants to get a 2nd car for commuting and has been thinking about mazda 2s, fiestas, prii, fiat500, etc etc. he's been in my Fit a lot and wanted to go non-honda just because he's owned a lot of hondas (currently in a MDX).

Anyway on a lark we hit "find dealers" on truecar for a 2012 base auto @ $16,182 plus $599 documentation fee.

within 60 seconds a dealer about 50 miles away called him. He asked what color, friend said, "what do you have?" Blue. "OK but I don't want to pay the documentation fee." He said he'd get an approval from his manager and email the details. $16,182 plus tax and title. End of conversation less than 5 minutes elapsed from hitting enter.

Whew, that's the way to buy a car. He doesn't know yet whether he's getting it. Will report back.

 

Nice! Assuming that his dealership is going to charge about the same as what I paid for "title" (Maryland MVA paperwork), which was $300, then he's going to end up paying about $150 less OTD for his 2012 auto base than I did for my 2011 auto base.

 

You did much better than me with the email, I was not sure what I wanted new, used and looked around for over a year. I received very little response to email inquires. JIm

 

Wow, you have all given me a lot to think about how best to approach this. The specific plans and advice are all so helpful!

According to truecar, average price paid in Seattle area right now is $473 below MSRP. And there don't seem to be any screaming deals on the "price paid" thread lately, however as has been pointed out it is still sometimes possible. I won't know til I actually try. No, a few hundred $ one way or another isn't a deal-breaker, it might be if i had more confidence in my negotiating skills. On the other hand saving a thousand bucks is a different story, not sure how possible that is. Anyway there seem to be a variety of ways to go about this and I will be getting back to you on it presently.

Thanks for helping me sort thru this. I forgot to say there is one accessory I must have, and that is a "FitFreakForum" sticker in my back window!! Hahahaha

 

well the initial email isn't promising. My buddy got it but it still showed the $599 doc fee plus $300 in dealer crap (cargo tray and mudflaps). He still hasn't gotten a "real" offer.

So far it seems like the same run-around.

 

a good time to buy (if you're not in a hurry) is around Feb. most folks who are not very good with their money are in creditcard debt from the holiday spendings so dealers are very willing to sell. hahaha also end of year.

 

Well my cubi-mate got the Hyundai Accent SE Auto 5dr hatch (2012). Whatever the top end version is for $18.5 (OTD w 7% sales tax). Looked at it. Sniff. It's a damn interesting car. Better materials and features both electronic (bluetooth and satellite) and mechanical (138/123 hp/tq, 4 wheel discs, 6speed transmissions either manual or auto; he got the auto). Better MPG (epa est. 30/40). Better warranty. Fit and finish are excellent. Carpet felt cheap but not easy. This is not your dad's Hyundai. If you're looking for a fun commuter car with optional rear passengers it's the real deal.

My Fit is more open and roomy but not a lot, and feels pedestrian in comparison.

They gave him list less $600 discount (his wife works at AutoTrader).

The truecar.com "find dealers in your area" is a waste of time. Their posted prices might be realistic but the dealer offers are inflated by $500 to $1000 over the posted "best price" with "documentation fees" and other nonsense. Still have to do some legwork it seems. But it's a good idea to look at the car in person and walk out at least once and maybe deal by fax/email later. After they have some time invested they are more likely to deal.

 

Glad he found a car he likes. Hyundai quality has been really improving lately.