OK, all the dealers in my area seem to add about $2,900 worth of crap to the Fits, it is non-negotiable and non-removable with a car until you buy it. Stuff like the exterior/interior protection package, door and wheelwell trim, wheel locks, etc.
They have some base model 5 speeds that sticker for around $15,8k now cost $19,5k out the door with tax/tag/title and add-ons.

So needless to say I'm looking at pre-owned and have found a couple.
i'm strictly looking for a manual tranny as I will be modding the car a bit and want to keep it fun to drive.

I found a silver 2009 sport with Nav for $17,950 at a Carmax with 30k miles
I found a red 2009 sport non-Nav for $15,9k at a Ford dealer with 31k miles

I am inclined to get the non-Nav model and save the $2k but is there anything I might miss thats bundled with the Nav option?

One other option is I may have found a dealer thats a little farther out of town thats got a new 2011 blue base 5 speed for $15,8k, none of the add-on crap.

Would I be better off buying the new base or the 2 year old sport for the same money? I will work on the Ford dealer Monday morning but its entirely likely I can get them to come off that price a little, especially if I show them I can get a new one for the same price.

If I buy a sport model I'll focus on suspension and engine stuff first, on that order, if I buy the base I will most definitely have to buy some new rims within the first month or buy some used sport rims.

Sorry this is long but please give your thoughts!

 

Prior to 2011, only the navi models included VSA. Also, if you don't plan on replacing the head unit and want to use an ipod, the navi's screen is a bit better for selecting playlists and the like. Also, steering radio controls, which I'm a fan of.

 

I'm totally ok with replacing the head unit, my last 2 cars had a $150 or less Alpine that sounded far better than the stock stuff. I have nav on my iphone, its pretty much useless option to me.
As far as VSA I don't think I really care about that either so this helps steer me away from that premium 2009 model.

Do all of the Fits have a usb/ipod hook-up or only the sport models?

I have a blank check from capital one so I am locked to using a dealer, otherwise I'd be buying from an individual.

 

The USB dongle is only installed on the sport fits. It can be cheaply added to the base though. If you are changing the HU, then it's pretty irrelevant anyway.

 

Oh and the 2011s all ( base and sport) have the USB interface and vsa, plus cruise control, whereas before that was just the sport option.

 

Thanks, this is exactly what I needed to know!

If I can get a new base with manual tranny for the $15,8k price online then I'll do that, if I'm forced into getting $2k plus worth of dealer add-ons than I'll buy a used one in the $15,5-16k range.

 

Why can't you use the Capital One check and buy from an individual? Seller will probably wait until the check clears their bank before handing over keys and title but that should only be 3-5 days. You'll save $2K or more from the dealer prices you posted.

_

 

Capital one used to work that way, I bought my last couple of M3's with it, it was great.
But too many people were taking advantage of the frredom to combine deals and get cash out so now they will only let you buy from Capital One dealers.
Its odd if you think about it because by the banks restricting car financing to buying from dealers they are actually forcing people to pay a premium for the car.
I could buy a nice sport 2009 or 2010 like I want for at least $1,500 less than what the dealers are wanting by getting it from an individual.

 

Forget used. I would shop around online using carsdirect etc and just get a new one equipped as you like it. You might need to just get a flight somewhere and drive home, and still save $$.

For example, my local dealer is selling them for 17,848 to any joe schmoe who walks into the internet department. (www.andersondirect.com)

 

I wonder if, no, no if involved. I wonder how much the bank is getting kicked back from the dealers? They are profiting from this!

If your credit is good enough for Capital one to give you a loan, getting a lone from another institution should not be a problem.

Are you a member of a credit union? Time to become one.

I have become cynical with age and hate dealers and banks. If a bank handed me a list of dealers I must buy from I would walk until I saved enough money to buy a car cash! Only what I would do and not a suggestion.
JIm 0311

 

Yeah, I may do that as well, I'll check a local CU Monday morning before pulling the trigger, 6.09% is what Cap One will give me for 60 months on a 2010 or 2011.

 

Let us know how you make out. JIm 0311

 

6.09? wow, that's where their highway robbery is. Honda has had a number of times the 0.9% on new vehicles. I think we got in on 2.9 as there were no deals through honda finanicial at the time.

~SB

 

I have to say ouch to 6.09 as well. I was lucky to get in on the 0.9% deal before it lapsed.

If your credit score is good OP then I'd shop around before commiting. I'm sure another lender can give you a better rate than that if your credit's good.

 

I got the 0.9%, I took a quick look and it is not available. They do have 0.9% on the Civic. Would be about $40 a month less for 60 months. Thats maybe $2500 over the life of the loan!

I'd probably be driving a Civic now.
JIm 0311

 

0.9% ended on July 4th, my equifax according to Cap One was 687, is that good enough to get the top tier low rates through American Honda finance?

 

You can check out PenFed. It was 2.49% last I heard.

 

Banks and prostitutes have a lot in common. If the rent is due and there are not many customers they will both lower their rates or accept customers they would not normally consider. All you can do is ask, the worst they can do is say no.

You can apply for more than one loan, to the best of my knowledge any loans applied for in a two week period are considered as one towards your credit score.

Another tactic, if you have a rate from a lender, tell the dealer you have a rate of XX% ask if they will beat it? 9 times out of ten they will. This may not work with your capital one loan at one of their listed dealers.

I should add I have the luxury of time to go out and kick tires and shop around for loans. You may not have this, sometimes you just have to do your best.
JIm 0311

 

In GA insurance companies are offering car loans. State Farm's rate was competitive with my bank.

The interest rate the dealer offers is negotiable. I think it's best to tell the salesman you will finance with the dealer, if their offered rate is competitive. This gives you the benefit of their thinking they will also profit from the loan.

I wound up using North American Honda as their rate was less than I could get otherwise (but I did tell the finance guy what rates I'd been quoted. I probably should have lied a bit).

The finance guy will also try to sell you service plans (nitrogen, anyone?) and extended warranties. These will be overpriced. If you say no, you can always change your mind later. I think Bernardi Honda offers Honda's extended warranties for a low margin. You can purchase the new car warranty up until 6,000 miles. I never felt the need for any extended warranty on a Honda. Maybe if it was a Volvo.

edit:
Another tactic the salespeople use is for you to agree upon a price after heavy negotiations and then pull out a menu of dealer options. By this time you're too worn out to negotiate. Some might be tasty (at the time, floor mats were optional). Ask to see this before negotiating a price, and know the prices of floor mats beforehand. ($160 for Honda carpeted floor mats?!!!). I almost caved, but then said no and bought them online from College Hills Honda.


And dealer fees "ADM fees" are negotiable. They were a bit sneaky. We had the written price, and then they verbally told me the out the door price. It was about $500 higher than I calculated (know how much taxes and title fees are). I walked when they added these to the agreed upon price. The sales manager called me on my cell before I got home to knock another $500 off the price (equal to the fees). Of course this was pre-tsunami.

 

Thanks guys, good info here.
I never let the dealer do the financing, you can always do better on your own with local banks/CU's and I don't like the dealer profiting off of my financing.

Whats so shocking to me in this whole deal is just how closely priced a new 2011 is to a comparable 2009 with 20-30k miles, we are talking a very small amount of money. I found a dealer in town thats not adding crap to the car and I can get a new Fit sport manual for $17,601 and there are many dealers in the area selling 2009 sport manuals for $15,950-16,500, one I looked at Saturday at a Carmax was $17,950 for a 2009 sport/Nav/Manual with 25k on it, and they were non-negotiable on the price...crazy.