Well, the difference between the Full and Add marks is usually a quart (for obvious reasons). So if you run with 3 quarts instead of 4, you've got only 75% of the oil circulating. Which is enough to not run low, but won't that also mean it breaks down that much faster? Don't know if the MM takes that into account (I'd doubt it knows how much oil there is, or you wouldn't need a dipstick).

 

Might be some clarification needed here....I think most people are saying that their oil level comes up to about 3/4 of the distance between the two marks on the dipstick, right? That's not the same as 3/4 full. Typically, the two marks on a dipstick represent a range of 1 quart......ie when it hits the lower mark, adding one quart will bring it to the top mark.

Anyway, when I add 3.8, mine comes up to about 3/4 of the way between the marks. My driveway also has a slight slope.

geo

 

So, after work, I went to Potbelly's to get some food, a 45 minute round trip, as I drove from Winnetka into Chicago, then home near Old Orchard Mall. Of course, I do deliveries for work, so my oil gets around.

I let my car sit in the garage on what seems to be level ground for about 5 minutes... measured the stick... it hit the top dot EXACTLY. dunno why though.

Two days ago, before going to work, I checked the oil level. The car was in the side portion of the driveway... not level ground. The front of the Fit was over broken/slightly sunken pavement. The oil level was about 2 mm below the top dot. It had been sunny out, so I don't know if that affected anything.

I did my oil change on Monday. The front was lifted on two jack (one behind each front wheel), each backed up with a jack stand. The jacks were at the "recommended shift" points, and didn't leave room to put the stands there, so I used stands as back up to the jacks.

After taking out the filter, I let i drain until it was barely dripping. I drained out a little over 3.5 qts with the front end lifted up. I'd dare say, more like 3.7... but it's hard to tell, when the cheapy pan only has markers for whole quarts.

I poured in, maybe 3.7 quarts. Again, hard to tell, since I was using a 5 quart jug with only quart line markers. I had originally poured a little more into a gas can (as the funnel didn't reach), but ended up pouring the drips from the can back into the jug.

After that oil change, I lowered the car onto the garage floor and checked the oil level (giving it some time for the last of the poured oil to get to the bottom)... a hairs breath OVER the top dot.

Recap:

today: at dot (in garage facing out)
2 days ago: below dot (with car tilted forward no less)
4 days ago: above dot. (in garage facing in!)

Again, any attempt at hitting that line is rather futile. So long as its at least halfway up between the two dots, I'd leave it be.

 

Goobers,

Could the oil level variances between each check in relation to your Fit's multitude of positions mean that earth's rotating centrifugal force is a direct contributing role?
No really, that was the best description yet. Thank you.

 

@Steve244, I've used synthetics for 12 years with no problems except the van but only bad oil leaks, I was just saying its not needed for a stock Fit. They use moly on the pistons which is a friction modifier. I noticed my mpg dropping with it and never had it in long enough to pay for itself so it was a waste of money. Turbos, racing, Towing and cold weather there is advantages. 0w20 is synthetic but because its more available now its now required for all 2011 but goes back to all 2001 and newer cars.
Things I need to Know

As far as oil leaks, the L series is newer and no known problems yet but all overhead cams have had problems. Valve Adjustment | Tooldesk Automotive Tool Blog - Reviews, Advice, Question, Diagnose, Repairs, Technical Support, Information

 

Your links are inconclusive; what are you trying to illustrate/support? That synthetic is prone to leakage? That synthetic will lower MPG? Both? I don't think either will occur. But I'm not a proponent of using synthetic unless it's called for by the manufacturer either.

 

I apologize if I'm off topic. I have a 2010 fit and it's getting ready to hit 4000 miles and is at 60% oil life. When should I do my first oil change? I know it has additives in the first batch of oil, but is it necessary to let the oil life read five or ten percent? I have a hard time waiting until It hits around 10k to change my oil...how big of a deal is the first batch?thanks...kirinzon

 

15 percent on the Maintenance Minder or 1 year. The additives are on the pistons look at Lyons motor. You still need to check the oil level. Then you have to make a decision on what oil you want to use 0w20 or 5w20.

 

It starts nagging you at 15%. That seems a logical time to change it. (edit: or 1 year as SB and the owners manual suggest.

 

Every thing with you is inconclusive, If you have low friction there wont be proper sealing. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/Runni...synthetics.pdf

http://www.e38.org/Synthetic%20Oils.pdf

One of the links I showed you says 0w20 is now recommended by Honda for all cars 2001 and newer. I just want every one to get the proper info and make up their own mind. Here another one that says synthetics is OK. http://www.motoroilmatters.org/downl...%20Rodding.pdf

I already asked if 5w20 is to disappear for 0w20 at Honda. They said no.

 

I'm using either 10w30 or 5w30 in my car right now and I believe the blow by from the lighter stuff was messing up my O2 readings and causing my car to run way richer than it is now... No catalytic converter, no CEL, the exhaust is no longer gagging me and and I no longer get dizzy sitting at signal lights from the strong gasoline fumes from the exhaust.

 

Here's an idea, of someone hasn't done it already. Why doesn't someone just check the oil dip stick level on a brand new Fit? Then everyone would know how it comes from the factory.

 

The link in your prior post was by a seller of synthetics and none of your links are from Honda. No where in your links does it say anything about lower friction causing sealing problems or greater fuel consumption.

If you want to link something fine. Quote the interesting passage and post a link to the source. Otherwise just say "I think" and make stuff up. Posting random links and stating opinions as fact hurts your credibility.

 

I was big into synthetics when I first came on here. So changing your mind and listening to people who know is making stuff up then let it hurt my credibility . Keep in mind a internal combustion engine in not a sealed unit. Synthetics do what they say and I am not questioning that, but because they flow better they also leak easier. All conv./syn oil types is man made so by definition its considered synthetics. Synthetic - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Nice use of irony.

Instead of saying:
Why not just say:

"I experienced lower MPG and higher oil consumption using synthetics on an old van and my Fit. I switched back to mineral oil. IMO synthetic oil is not worth the difference in price except when required by a manufacturer or in extreme operating conditions."

 

There has been good arguments about reasons to use synthetic or regular oil... Old school reasoning says to change oil every 3000 miles, nowadays it's let the oil minder say when to change the oil because less oil changes are less stressful on the environment.. I think that if you choose to do 3000 mile changes there is no reason to spend the extra money for synthetic oil. If you go by the oil change minder you are better off using synthetic.. Either way if you fill your crankcase to the top mark on the dip stick and have to rev your engine way up high on occasion, you're going to see your oil level drop to the middle between the high and low marks on the stick and it's going to happen sooner with a lighter grade of oil regardless of the type.

 

School of Jiffy Lube? I'm old. Been to school. Never reasoned that.

How about because manufacturers specify it, and oil analysis confirms it? (Not that I've had mine analyzed, but there are those that have here...)

agree on the first part, don't agree on the second...

uh, I rev mine way up high on occasion (father's day for example) and don't see the level drop to the middle. It's within a few mm of where it started after 9,000 miles. I use 5w20 conventional oil and currently have 27K on the clock after 2 oil changes.

 

Golly man, I hope you aren't as lax on changing your underwear as you are your oil.... I am old too, have 38800 miles on my car, use synthetic and have 7 used oil filters I have removed from my car... I probably wouldn't be as extreme in maintaining my car if I wasn't as extreme in my choice of engine mods and driving habits.... You will probably trade your Fit in on a new car one day, where I plan to drive and maintain mine until I die.

 

Just put steve on ignore. This is a guy with no actual technical experience or knowledge who is just parroting the things that agree with his preconceived beliefs of how things should work.

 

yeah, like you and your expose of Selden's premium fuel experiment. Hilarious.