Anyone here buy the "Base" model?
#1
Anyone here buy the "Base" model?
Mostly here I read about the SPORT version. Yes, hi, I am new here. Just got a 2011 Base model. I have a Miata that is my "Fun" car, so I bought the BASE FIT to save some money and I don't miss ANY of the extras. Also wanted smaller rims for a smoother ride.
Only complaints are the tires seeming weak, and the speakers are dull - the BASE doesn't have the dashboard tweeters - so I'll be upgrading those pretty quick I suspect.
Great car, happy with the purchase, just wondering if the BASE model is discussed much here?
Only complaints are the tires seeming weak, and the speakers are dull - the BASE doesn't have the dashboard tweeters - so I'll be upgrading those pretty quick I suspect.
Great car, happy with the purchase, just wondering if the BASE model is discussed much here?
#2
I have a base model, and I couldn't agree more about the tires. I definitely need to replace those soon. I wouldn't mind some better audio, as well.
It does seem the sport models are discussed more often here, but that doesn't mean the info can't be used on base models. Just don't get too excited about adding the Mugen aero to your car.
It does seem the sport models are discussed more often here, but that doesn't mean the info can't be used on base models. Just don't get too excited about adding the Mugen aero to your car.
#3
yea, there's not that many differences and base people do live here, and even if someone has a sport they can relate to someone who has base.
The question is similar to someone saying, "are Blue fits discussed here?" or only discussions on black Fits are allowed.
If you have something to discuss bring it up, don't limit yourself to just talking to base folks.
The question is similar to someone saying, "are Blue fits discussed here?" or only discussions on black Fits are allowed.
If you have something to discuss bring it up, don't limit yourself to just talking to base folks.
#5
cool thanks. I guess there really is not a big difference. what was I thinking? hahaha looks like lots of good info here. Are there any bigger/better fit forums out there? This one is way larger than the other I found on google
#6
So what Tire Pressures do you BASE guys run? my 2011 says 32 (maybe 33?) on the door, but I prefer higher than that, may try 38psi to tighten things up. I think the feel, and thus preference may be different than the SPORT with 16" rims. I'll probably go +1 size on my 15" rims to get much better tire selection and pricing.
Also looking at PIONEER 6.5" 3 way speakers for the front doors. I've had good luck with Pio being clean and neutral sounding.... I put a REAL TIME ANALYZER in the car playing pink noise and notice the stock speakers roll off VERY FAST beyond about 12,000 hz. Cranking the treble just makes that 12k harsh sound. Better speakers are needed to fix that. Rode in my buddy's SPort today and the high end was much smoother, not so can sounding, because his had the dash mounted tweeters.
Any other speaker recommendations? Also considering KICKERS which I haven't heard yet, and POLK AUDIO.
Also looking at PIONEER 6.5" 3 way speakers for the front doors. I've had good luck with Pio being clean and neutral sounding.... I put a REAL TIME ANALYZER in the car playing pink noise and notice the stock speakers roll off VERY FAST beyond about 12,000 hz. Cranking the treble just makes that 12k harsh sound. Better speakers are needed to fix that. Rode in my buddy's SPort today and the high end was much smoother, not so can sounding, because his had the dash mounted tweeters.
Any other speaker recommendations? Also considering KICKERS which I haven't heard yet, and POLK AUDIO.
#7
One thing I will suggest to a "Base" owner: rear sway bar. The Sport model comes with one integrated into the rear subframe, but I guess it was too much for the Base model. Hence we get stuck with a ridiculous amount of understeer in stock form. Adding a rear sway bar will make the whole turning experience a lot more enjoyable, even if you already have a fantastic driver's car in the garage.
#8
Is a rear sway a simple bolt on at home thing? I have so very few tools. And where might'nt I find a good but cheap one? I notice a LOT of wobble happening in the back when I turn quick and hate that! but.... I realize I didn't buy this car for THAT
OOP. A quickle FROOGLE and I found some
OOP. A quickle FROOGLE and I found some
#10
Sway bar
16" Wheels/tires
USB Audio/6spkr
Body Kit with wing
Can't think of much else that is different so most everything applies to both vehicles, especially with add-ons (other than lip kits or MUGEN body accessories).
~SB
#11
I bought a base I did not see anything on the sport I wanted that I could not add to the base for a lot less money. Eventually I would like to add some Nice rims, maybe at the first tire change.
I tend to keep cars a long time, current car 12 years, so no big rush.
JIm 0311
I tend to keep cars a long time, current car 12 years, so no big rush.
JIm 0311
#12
Sport is definitely still great and is a tad more invisible if you want to avoid wheel theft etc. Regarding the rear sway bar, the sport does have a small one but progress makes a 62.1061 rear sway bar that really stiffens up the beam. Just ordered mine today!
Only reason I bought the sport was that it was less than $1k less than the base, and I like the paddle shifters and appearance mods.
Only reason I bought the sport was that it was less than $1k less than the base, and I like the paddle shifters and appearance mods.
#13
Just ran some frequency analyzer tests on the factory audio. using TRUE AUDIO RTA, ECM8000 reference mic, M-audio interface on laptop. It's not pretty. The bass is over driven - dropping to about -5 or -6 is "more accurate". hyped to sound good and boomy I bet. High end has a 12,000hz peak and drops rapidly after that. Turning up treble just makes that 12k more harsh. I produce and master in recording studios so I am kind picky about that stuff. Gotta get better speakers soon!
I suspect the sharp drop is compensated for in the SPORT that has the dash tweeters.
Anyway, I settled on BASS -5* and TREB +1 - but will vary +/-2 per taste and song. * This was to dial it in closer to accurate, not boomy
Also filled tires up to 38psi and things feel a little better, tighter. But I am learning to drive this tamer to push milage. Around 28-30 around town so far shifting into NEUTRAL on hills and such
I suspect the sharp drop is compensated for in the SPORT that has the dash tweeters.
Anyway, I settled on BASS -5* and TREB +1 - but will vary +/-2 per taste and song. * This was to dial it in closer to accurate, not boomy
Also filled tires up to 38psi and things feel a little better, tighter. But I am learning to drive this tamer to push milage. Around 28-30 around town so far shifting into NEUTRAL on hills and such
Last edited by wwjd; 04-30-2011 at 08:10 PM.
#14
Just ran some frequency analyzer tests on the factory audio. using TRUE AUDIO RTA, ECM8000 reference mic, M-audio interface on laptop. It's not pretty. The bass is over driven - dropping to about -5 or -6 is "more accurate". hyped to sound good and boomy I bet. High end has a 12,000hz peak and drops rapidly after that. Turning up treble just makes that 12k more harsh. I produce and master in recording studios so I am kind picky about that stuff. Gotta get better speakers soon!
I suspect the sharp drop is compensated for in the SPORT that has the dash tweeters.
Anyway, I settled on BASS -5* and TREB +1 - but will vary +/-2 per taste and song. * This was to dial it in closer to accurate, not boomy
Also filled tires up to 38psi and things feel a little better, tighter. But I am learning to drive this tamer to push milage. Around 28-30 around town so far shifting into NEUTRAL on hills and such
I suspect the sharp drop is compensated for in the SPORT that has the dash tweeters.
Anyway, I settled on BASS -5* and TREB +1 - but will vary +/-2 per taste and song. * This was to dial it in closer to accurate, not boomy
Also filled tires up to 38psi and things feel a little better, tighter. But I am learning to drive this tamer to push milage. Around 28-30 around town so far shifting into NEUTRAL on hills and such
As for the tires and neutral. Both can be dangerous (for not just you, others as well) as you've shrunken your contact patch with over-inflating the tires and when in neutral, have less control and are also putting more wear on the clutch. I run our sport at right around the recommended PSI (I might be a lb or two high but not 5+) and my lifetime average is in my sig. Now that winter gas is gone and I'll be rounding out my 2nd year in August, I expect to have a lifetime average of over 38mpg.
As for us, we picked the sport over the base because of the features we liked, it did come with. The styling of the sport (skirts/wing) is more to my liking, the Sway bar, alloy wheels, and USB connectivity were also top of the list and I enjoy using the cruise control periodically. Adding all of those would have cost more than the sport and would not have been warrantied and not able to roll into the payments.
~SB
Last edited by specboy; 04-30-2011 at 08:55 PM.
#15
I'm on my second base Fit. In 2009 when I got my first one the sport was a great deal because it had a lot more features like cruise, keyless etc. Now the difference in features is much less. 2011 Base Fit comes with cruise, keyless, usb interface and VSA which the sport didn't even have unless you bought the navigation system.
I like the base because it's lighter with the same engine and I'm not big on ground effects. I also like to pick out my own alloy wheels.
I used to run around 50 psi on my 2009 and it handled much better but the tires seemed to puncture very easily. 35-38psi will tighten things up a bit. I eventually switched to 195/60/15 yokohama avid envigors on the 2009 Fit and it made a huge difference. Tires on the base are pretty bad.
Real easy. This is where I bought mine. Club RSX.com: Progress Rear Sway Bar
Use these instructions. You don't have to remove the springs or the wheels. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...r-install.html
I like the base because it's lighter with the same engine and I'm not big on ground effects. I also like to pick out my own alloy wheels.
So what Tire Pressures do you BASE guys run? my 2011 says 32 (maybe 33?) on the door, but I prefer higher than that, may try 38psi to tighten things up. I think the feel, and thus preference may be different than the SPORT with 16" rims. I'll probably go +1 size on my 15" rims to get much better tire selection and pricing.
.
.
Use these instructions. You don't have to remove the springs or the wheels. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...r-install.html
Last edited by Chad T; 05-01-2011 at 01:42 AM.
#16
As for the tires and neutral. Both can be dangerous (for not just you, others as well) as you've shrunken your contact patch with over-inflating the tires and when in neutral, have less control and are also putting more wear on the clutch. I run our sport at right around the recommended PSI (I might be a lb or two high but not 5+) and my lifetime average is in my sig. Now that winter gas is gone and I'll be rounding out my 2nd year in August, I expect to have a lifetime average of over 38mpg.
~SB
~SB
Mine is an AUTOMATIC. I'm told there is no problem dropping in and out of DRIVE while moving... to N on hills and such... seems to work fine and eeks out more mileage. Is that actually not good?? This is my first "Automatic" car. Seems to shift smooth and no problems doing it.
#17
Mine is an AUTOMATIC. I'm told there is no problem dropping in and out of DRIVE while moving... to N on hills and such... seems to work fine and eeks out more mileage. Is that actually not good?? This is my first "Automatic" car. Seems to shift smooth and no problems doing it.
#18
Contact patch looks and feels fine even at 38. I know the center will wear a little faster... then I can get much better tires
Mine is an AUTOMATIC. I'm told there is no problem dropping in and out of DRIVE while moving... to N on hills and such... seems to work fine and eeks out more mileage. Is that actually not good?? This is my first "Automatic" car. Seems to shift smooth and no problems doing it.
Mine is an AUTOMATIC. I'm told there is no problem dropping in and out of DRIVE while moving... to N on hills and such... seems to work fine and eeks out more mileage. Is that actually not good?? This is my first "Automatic" car. Seems to shift smooth and no problems doing it.
Also, with the contact patch being smaller, you are more likely to skid or lose control during higher speed emergency maneuvers as you don't have the grip you normally would have on the already narrow tires.
interestingly enough. you are looking to save money on fuel economy but are willing to buy new tires sooner... Kind of opposite theory isn't it?
~SB
#19
Just bought a base 2011 fit 5 speed ( as cheap as they came), 2 weeks ago. I really didnt see any diff between the base and sport besides the lip kit and wing. My base came with keyless entry, usb radio, cruise control, and floor mats . The one thing that the sport had that i wanted are the rims. I think fit oem wheels all look good for the car.
#20
Just bought a base 2011 fit 5 speed ( as cheap as they came), 2 weeks ago. I really didnt see any diff between the base and sport besides the lip kit and wing. My base came with keyless entry, usb radio, cruise control, and floor mats . The one thing that the sport had that i wanted are the rims. I think fit oem wheels all look good for the car.